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DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE, 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE, 



LONDON : 

R, CLAY, SON, AND TAYLOK, VUINTFRS. 

BREAD STREET H(LI^ 



DOMESTIC LIFE 



IN 



PALESTINE. 



BY 



MARY ELIZA EOGEES. 



LONDON: 
BELL AND DALDT, 186, FLEET STREET. 

1862. 



VS//Z 

^7^ 



TO 



MY BROTHER, 

EDWAED THOMAS EOGEES, 

H.B.M/g( consul at DAMASCUS, 

IN REMEMBRANCE OF THE HAPPY YEARS 
WHICH I SPENT WITH HIM IN PALESTINE, 
I DEDICATE THIS VOLUME. 



i 



PREFACE. 



While lesiding in Palestine, I was placed in circum- 
stances which gave me unusual facilities for observing the ' 
inner phases of Oriental Domestic life. 

I mingled freely with the people, of all creeds and 
classes, and daily became better acquainted with their 
habits and modes of thought. 

The women especially interested me, an^ I gleaned many 
facts concerning them, which have never hitherto been 
published, and probably have never been collected. 

The pleasure which my Notes and Journal afforded 1;o 
members of my home circle, on my return to England, led 
me to think that possibly my countrymen would like to 
gain a further insight into the mysteries of Eastern life. 
Hence it was that I resolved to publish this volume. 

In compiliDg it, I have avoided as much as possible 
those subjects with which the public are already familiar. 
Descriptions of well-known places are only given when 
they are necessary to form an introduction or background 
to those scenes of real life which I have attempted to 
pourtray. 



VUl 



PKEPACE. 



To avoid complication, I speak of the people of Palestine 
generally as Arabs ; for though they are a mixed race, they 
aU call themselves " Arabs," or ^ sons of the Arabs," and 
Arabic is their mother-tongue. I classify them only, ac- 
cording to their creeds, but I may here mention, that the 
Christians of the land are said to be of pure Syrian origin, 
while the Moslems are chiefly descended from the Arabians 
who settled in the towns and villages of Syria and Palestine 
in the seventh and eighth centuries. 



21, SoHO Square, London. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

From London to the Levant — Yftfa, the ancient Joppa, in sight—The 
Quarantine Boat — Landing in Palestine— The Quarantine Station — 
Breakfeist in T&fa — Arab Ladies' Toilette — Salutations and Kisses— Sit 
Leah, and her First-bom Son — Fruit Gardens of Yfiia — Guest Chamber 
at Bamleh — Lepers— The Hill Country of Judaea—" Village of Grapes " 
— " Fountain of Birds"— Jewish Builders and Greek Gardeners — First 
Sight of Jemsalem-^-Arrival at the TaUbeyeh—Tent Life, and the Con- 
sul's Children 1—23 

CHAPTER II. 

Jerusalem — Church of the Knights of St. John— Bishop Gobat's Encamp- 
ment— Holman Hunt's Goat — Sunday on Mount Zion — Bazaars and 
Shopkeepers— Girls of Bethany and Siloam — A Madman — Moresque 
Building — View from the Seraglio — European Homes in Jerusalem— 
A Whirlwind at Night — The Convent of the Cross —Mosaic Pave- 
ment 24^-38 

CHAPTER IIL 

Learning Arabic— Carriage Roads — Ride to Bethlehem, %.e. Beit Lahm — 
The Convent and its Shrines — Population of Beit Lahm— The Carver of 
Beit Lahm— His Wife and Child— The Veil of Ruth—" The Mother of 
Joseph" — Description of House and Furniture— Note on Mark ii — 
The Fields of Boaz— Milk Grotto Miracles — Girls of Beit Lahm — 
Bedouins on the move— The Gardens of Solomon— The Cottage in the 
Valley — The Reservoir— Aqueducts and Chariot-roads — Reeds — Remedy 
for Mosquito Bites . . ^ 39—57 

CHAPTER IV. 

Rainbows and Bee-catchers— Philip's Fountain— A Runaway Horse- 
Katrine, and her Delusions — Start for "EkifA — The little Lame Girl of 
Kubd,b— Siesta at Ramleh— The Abyssinian Slave— The Bedouin's Song 
to his Camel— Sunday at Y&fe* — " There cometh a Shower" — Exhibition 
of a Performing Goat— Circumcision— Making Bread— Scene in an Arab 
Sailing-boat— The Custom-house at TantClra— Women of Tantiirar— 
Ruins of Dora and Athlite— A Wedding Party— Cradles— " Locusts and 
Wild Honey"—The Monks of Mount Carmel—Hld& . . . 58-82 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTBR V. 

GreetmgB at the Gate, at Night— Onr Houae and SenrantB— The Poor 
Widow*8 Petition— People of Hii&— Siege of Hlki&— Betieat of the 
Ttrehites— Help from an English Slup— A Fake Alann— Wedding at 
the Greek Church—Wedding Procession— Songs and Dances— Going 
forth to Meet the Bridegroom, at Ni^t— Professional Bride-dresaers— 
Toikiah Baths— Kohl and Henna— Angehna and the Cleigy of Hlii&— 
Denunciation of Blade Lace Mittens— The Bazaar, (m a Night of Be- 
joidng— Jane Eyre, and Aiab Stoiy-tellers — ^An Important Question — 
Tassin Agha, and his two Wives— Mohammed Bek, and his Wife 
Miriam— Sheik Abdallah, and lus aev^ Wives— << The Holder of the 
Keys'* — A Hint to Polygamists — ^A Divination Dictionaiy, or Dream- 
hook— My Dream Interpreted — Hannah and Penninah— A Maiket 
Garden— African Maniac in the Cemetery 83—109 

CHAPTER VI. 

To Nawreth, i.e. Nftsiiah— The River Kishon— '< Dan^tera of Sound"— 
A Village Oven— The Birtiiplace of Saleh's Mare— Hiddm Treasures 
and Treasure-trove— Necr(»nancy and dairvoyants — Saleh's little Sister 
—Congregation at the Latin Church— Costumes of the People of N^sirah 
— R^ntation of N&sinkh— Willow-pattern Cheese Plates : a Hint to 
Decuratois— Mount Tabor— Eiinna the Heimit, and ** his Man Friday " 
—Reeds and Ink-honis- The Cnisades— Stephani's Guest Chamber- 
Dances, Songs, and Supper— The Greek and Latin deigy— Castle of 
She& 'Omer— The Governor's Hareem — ^Lament of the Senior Wife — 
Native Sdiools— Jewish Synagogue— The Olive Harvest— Cotton Fields 
in the Plain of'Akka-Productiveness of the Plain . . . 11(K— 142 

CHAPTER Vn. 

** New Brooms sweep Clean "—Death at Midni^t— The Moslem Bier — 
Armenian Remedies for Cholera— Note on the '^ Eariy and Latter Run " 
Panic in Hiu&— '' The Yellow Wind"— Suleiman the Taifor— Quaran- 
tine at the Convent — ^A Dream, and its Consequences — '* Imps of the 
Yellow Wind"— Rain— Our New House— Ccmtents of tiie Storeroom- 
Reverence for Bread— ^Death of Abiahlm— Funeral Procession— The 
Mother's Grief and Death— Funeral Service— The Widowor Ehalil, and 
his young finde— Elias Sakhali— Government of Syria— Death of Elias 
— ^The Widow and her Children— Songs and lamentations for the Dead 
— ^The Sword Dance— Funeral Orations 143 — 167 

CHAPTER Vm. 

Sparrows on the House-tops — Gras^grown Roofo— Fotoium Spinosom, 
the Crown of Thorns— Hvvest on the House-tops —My Bedouin Visit(»rs 
—Katrine Sakhali and her Cousin— The White Mare and the Si^pUie 
Bead— Our Egyptian Groom M<^iammed— The Wandering HerdsoMD— 
Bedouin Depredations — The Horse-guards of Galike— 8u]^per with 



CONTENTS. XI 

Salihh Agha — Salihh Agha's little Son — Wrestling-— A Home at Shefa 
'Omer— Women at the Bake-house — Bedouin Eye-sight — A Gazelle 
Hunt — Moslem and Christian Prayers at Sunset — Persecution of Jews 
— Characteristics of Arah Children — My Moslem Teacher and his Ex- 
planation of the Rosary — A Moslem Free-thinker— Christening of Jules 
Aumann— F6te at the French Consulate— The African Foot Messenger 
— Saleh Bek*s Good-hye 143—196 

• 

CHAPTER IX. 

Katrine and her Scapulary— Preparations for a Journey— A Bedouin 
Encampment — Bedouin Women — Bedouin Bread-making — Moslem 
Villages — Seeking a Night's Lodging— Women of Kefr K&ra — The 
Blind Man's Questions— Conjecture Concerning "the Manger" and 
" the Nativity" — Morning Visitors — ^An Encampment of Gipsies — 
Jugglery and Gymnastics — Government of Nablus — Arrabeh — The 
Divan — The Hareem— Helweh the Youngest Wife — ^Dinner ; Starch and 
Conserve of Roses — Curious Inquiries — ^A Marriage Portion — Songs of 
Rejoicing— Discussion about the Queen of England — ^A War Song— A 
Mother and her Infant Son — Preparation for a Nighf s Rest in the 
Hareem — The Lord's Prayer and the Moslem Women— Moslem Prayers 
and Salutations — Scenes at Midnight in the Hareem — Morning 
Visitors 196—235 

CHAPTER X. 

From Arrabeh to Sentb:— Castle of SenClr— Abrahlm Jerrar's Portrait— 
The Hareem —Approach of Turkish Cavalry — Hostilities Prevented — 
To Nablfts— A Price for the Head of Abrahlm — Marriage among the 
Samaritans — SellLmeh the Aged Priest, and the Samaritan Synagogue — 
Home of Habtb and Zora — Anithe the Betrothed— Samaritan Laws 
and Customs— The Priesthood — The Passover — ^.Sanaaritan Women — 
Character of the Samaritans— Jacob esh Shellabi — ^Letter from Priest 
Amran — The Widow and her Son — The Schoolmaster in search of a 
Wife— The Betrothal- Protestants of Nablfis— The Bazaars— Sheik 
Mdssa — ^Visit to the Governor of Nabliis — Test for Building Stone — 
Sheik Mfissa's Ideas about Wisdom and Folly — Jacob's Well— Search 
for a Bible at the Bottom of the Well — Joseph's Tomb— False Alarm — 
Little Zahra and the Violets — Oriental Enjoyments— Brothers and 
Sisters Ibrahim Pasha and the Woman of Sefurieh— Wit Rewarded — 
Dinner with D. Tannoos — The Women's Apartments . . . 236—275 

CHAPTER XI. 

To Jerusalem — Priest Amratt and the Greek Catholic — My Escort — A 
Dangerous Road — Valley of Figs— Darkness— The Lost Track — ^Alone 
on the Hill-top^Arrival at Jerusalem at Midnight— Jerusalem in the 
Spring — ^Rain — Flowing of the Kedron — En Rpgel— Course of the 
Kedron— Easter—Birth of the Imperial Prince of France Proclaimed— 
Fdte at the French Consulate— Outbreak at Nabl{Ls— Attack on the 



XU CONTENTS. 

Christians — Rescae of Rev. S. Lyde — Celebration of Peace— Sham Fight 
— Sieges of Jerusalem — The Holy Fire— Greek and Armenian Pilgrims 
—"Bishop of the Fire"— Fight of the Fanatics— Turkish Soldiers - 
Confessions of a Greek Priest — Truth — Fire-worshippers . . 276 — 306 

CHAPTER XII. 

Peasant Girls — Harvest of Roses — Caverns — Rules for the Observance of 
Ramadan — Sir M. Montefiore's Schools for 'Jewesses— " Sale by the 
Broken Group" — Urt&s— Peter Meshullam— An Arab Encampment — 
Dar el Benftt, the House of Girls— Solomon's Hareem — Queen's Birth- 
day—My Home on Mount Olivet— The Sheik of El Tur-His Wives 
and Children — A Moslem Funeral— Tombs of the Prophets— Skirmishes 
on Olivet— Farewell F§te at Urt&s 307—336 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Abu Ghaush — Art and Poetry of the Modem Arabs — Education of 
Native Girls— Y&fe. — The Sea-shore and the Sanctuary — Moslem call to 
Prayer — ^Edwin Arnold— Melon Harvest — Ruins of Caesarea- Wreck of 
an Arab Boat— Hebrew Boy adopted by Bedouins — Stone Quarries — 
Prayers at a Moslem Village — Village Supper— A Piano at H&ifa— My 
Moslem Friends from Arrabeh — Saleh Bek and his Children — Home of 
the Gardener's Daughter— Chess — New Ideas in Saleh Bek's Hareem — 
Helweh's Questions— Jews— An Earthquake— Widow and her Children 
— Day of Ill-luck — Feast of Sainte Barbe— Force of. Custom— Helweh 
and her First-bom Child — Saleh Bek's Perplexities about the Education 
of his Daughters — Thoughts about Moslem Women— Missionaries— The 
Day of Congratulation— Society for the Difiusion of Useful Knowledge 
— Yassln Agha's Petition and Proposal 337 — 373 

CHAPTER XIV. 

The Queen's iBirthday — Hafeefee in her New Home — Camiella and her 
African Attendant— Women of Damascus contrasted with the Women 
of H&ifa — Bastreena — ^Winter at Jerasalem— Surreya Pasha — Houses of 
Jerasalem Numbered — Russian Influence in Palestine — Dr. Levisohn 
and the Samaritan Pentateuch— Prince Alfred — Refugees from Arrabeh 
— ^Appeal for Protection— "Dakhal"— Prisoners from Arrabeh — The 
Govemor's Demand for my Prot6g6s — His Forbearance — The Boys taken 
Prisoners and Conveyed to 'Akka— Farewell to Hldfa— Miss Bremer — 
Russian Steamer— F^te of the Grand Duke Constantino — The Bishop's 
Benediction— Feast for the Pilgrims— The S. S. Demetrius — Jew of 
Aleppo— Collision— Rabbi Shaayea'a Timidity—" Hallo, Jack ! "—The 
Captain and Solomon— Shaayea "Missing" — Fraitless Search for Shaayea 
—Official Inquiry 374—410 

Note. — Hareem. The variation in the spelling of this word, in the following pages, is 
the result of a mistake. Harim and harem better represent the sound of the word as it 
is pronounced throughout Syria. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 






CHAPTEE I. 

THE good byes and farewell greetings on board the 
Rhine, at London Bridge, on the night of the 14th of 
June, 1855, need not be recorded here. At midnight the tide 
was favourable, the bell rang, the steam was up, lingering 
friends hurried away, and I found myself alone with my 
brother. He had been enjoying a few months' leave of 
absence in England, after having spent more than six 
years in consular service in Syria^ and I had gladly con- 
sented to accompany him, on his return to his official 
duties. We landed at Boulogne the next day, and arrived 
at Marseilles, in time to embark by the Egyptus, on the 
morning of the 21st of June. We passed through the 
Straits of Bonifacio on the 22d, at mid-day; and on Sun- 
day, the 24th, spent a few hours ashore at Malta. On 
Thursday morning (the 28th) we landed at Alexandria, 
and after seeing Said Pasha's palace, Cleopatra's needle, 
and Pompey's pillar, went on board the Tagey on the 
evening of the 29th. 

It was crowded with passengers, Greeks, Syrians, Turks, 
and Jews, who were leaving Alexandria on account of the 
outbreak of cholera there. The sunset gun flashed from 
the fort as the steamer glided out of the harbour. 

We remained on deck till a late hour, listening to the 
animated songs of the Greek sailors, who were celebrating 

B 



2 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

the festival of their patron saint, Paul The deck passen- 
gers were trying to make themselves comfortable for the 
night, and soon men, women, and children, Moslems, Chris- 
tians, and Jews, wrapped up closely in carpets, cloaks, and 
wadded quilts, looked like gigantic chrysalises crowded 
together in the moonlight. 

We were in the cosy little deck saloon soon after dawn 
on the following day; and, when the sailors came to wash 
the decks, I was sorry to see the motley crowd of sleepers 
disturbed, and pushed hither and thither as they tried to 
save themselves and their baggage from saturation. 

We watched the sun rise out of the sea, which was sud- 
denly changed from grey to gold, while the lead-coloured 
sky was crimsoned ; but the land I was longing to see was 
not in sight. 

The next morning, July the 1st, I was roused by the 
joyful news that we were approaching the shore, and was 
soon on deck, looking with strange delight and emotion 
over the blue sea to the coast of Palestine, stretching far 
away north and south in low undulating lines. The 
picturesque walled town of Yafa (the ancient Joppa) was 
immediately before me, with its white stone houses built 
down to the water's edge, and rising one above another on 
a rounded hill sloping to the sea. 

My brother said, " Look far into the east, a little towards 
the south, where the sun has just risen ; those distant hills 
which are now almost lost in bright mist are the hills of 
Judea, Uhe hills round about Jerusalem,' and from their 
summits you wiU. have the first view of the Holy City. 
They are separated from these low coast hills by the broad 
fertile plains of Sharon and Philistia." He reminded me 
how the pines and cedars of Lebanon were brought "m 
Jlotes hy sea to Joppa^' and thence carried up to Jerusalem, 
for the building of the Temple. 

This ancient port, with its bustling quay, its large con- 
vents, tall minarets, palm-trees, and extensive gardens, is 
the only cheerful and animated spot on the somewhat 
monotonous coast, which runs in an almost unbroken line 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 3 

from the bold headland of Mount Carmel, about fifty miles 
north, to the ruins of Gaza, forty miles south. 

We were soon at anchor just outside a semicircular belt 
of rocks, Fome of which rose dark and high out of the 
water, while others had sunk beneath its surface and were 
only indicated by the dashing of the surf over them. This 
rocky belt stands like a barrier in front of the town, and 
forms a natural harbour of about fifty feet in width, but it 
is only entered by small boats, and affords no protection in 
bad weather. Tradition connects the names of Perseus 
and Andromeda with these rugged rocks. Two Austrian 
war steamers were at anchor near to us ; they were waiting 
the pleasure of the Archduke Maximilian and his suite, 
who were then in Jerusalem. A few merchant vessels, 
Greek and French, were also to be seen, and little Arab 
boats were plying to and fro. 

A quarantine boat, containing an oflBcer and garde de 
sante, was towed alongside, and baskets of delicious fruits 
were taken on board, oranges, apricots, lemons, &c. A 
beautiful branch of an orange-tree, covered with glossy 
leaves and laden with ripe iruit, was handed to me. It 
was a difficult matter to get into the little quarantine boat 
destined to convey us to the shore, for the breeze was fresh, 
and a heavy swell disturbed the sea, and the Arab sailors 
in the towing boat would not touch the boat they were 
employed to tow, even to render necessary assistance, lest 
they should be compromised and imprisoned in the quaran- 
tine station. After many vain attempts, we, yith two 
Franciscan monks, and our baggage, were lowered clumsily 
into the clumsy boat, and narrowly escaped a fall into 
the sea ; and when free from the TagCy we were dragged 
along boisterougly. The little towing boat was quite 
hidden from us now and then, as it bounded over a wave, 
leaving us on the other side of it. As we approached 
the belt of rocks, I felt that it was impossible to escape 
being dashed to pieces, and while steering through the 
narrow pass I was silent with fear ; but the seeming danger 
was soon over ; within the belt the water was smooth as a 

b2 



4 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

lake, and once more I looked with delight on the scenes 
around me. There are two openings in the line of rocks ; 
one towards the north and one due west. "We had entered 
at the latter ; I felt the boat grating on the rocks beneath us. 

It was now half-past eight, and the quays were already 
crowded with people, mostly in the brilliant native cos- 
tumes ; but there were a few Franks in the usual Levantine 
dress, which is white from head to foot. Rags were waving 
from the consulates and from the convents, as well as from 
the ships, for it was Sunday, and the place had quite a 
holiday appearance. 

We passed in front of the town, towards the quarantine 
station, which is an isolated building, a little distance be- 
yond the walls on the southern side. 

Friendly voices from the shore welcomed my brother, 
in Arabic, Italian, French, and EnglisL When we arrived 
opposite to our destination, the boat was dragged towards 
the sands, and the garde de santi, who wore only a coarse 
shirt and a girdle, jumped knee deep into the water, caught 
me in his strong arms, and ran splashing through the sandy 
sea, and when we came to land still ran on, and would 
not release me till he put me in charge of another garde, at 
the foot of the rude steps, leading up the sandy cliff, to the 
quarantine station. Then he hastened back to the boat for 
my fellow-travellers, carrying them one after the other to 
terra Jirma. 

I had wondered how I should feel on first landing in 
Palestine, but this proceeding quite took the romance out 
of the event. I almost forgot I was in the Holy Land, 
while fully realizing the fact of being a prisoner. As soon 
as my brother and the monks joined me, we were led 
up the steps, to a door, which admitted us to a square en- 
closure, formed of low flat-roofed buildings of stone, in a 
dilapidated state ; in the centre of the square, a wooden 
shed covers a deep well, and tall, large-leaved, thriving 
mulberry-trees throw a thick rand welcome shade round it. 
The station was unusually full, owing to the outbreak of 
cholera in Egypt. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE 5 

Our fellow-travellers, the Franciscans, were quartered 
on some ecclesiastical pilgrims, and lodged eight in one 
room. 

The only chamber unoccupied opened into a little court- 
yard in the left-hand comer of the square, and that was 
allotted to us. It was by no means a pleasant lodging, but 
we determined to make the best of it. It was about 
twelve feet square ; the floor was of stone ; the walls white- 
washed ; and the door, which was formed of rough planks, 
had no fastening inside ; a casemented window, with half 
the glass out, looked towards the north, and showed us the 
blue sea, the rocky shore, and the southern wall of YSfa 
with its curious profile of flat-roofed houses, rising step by 
step one above the other, with here and there a minaret or 
a palm-tree, and groups of children were playing under the 
trees near to us ; so the prospect without somewhat com- 
pensated for the desolate picture within. 

There was nothing in the room but our luggage, our 
garde de santS, with his long stick, thousands of flies, an 
ant's nest, and ourselves. 

I sat in the narrow window seat, while my brother threw 
himself on the portmanteaus and boxes ; for some minutes 
we could only laugh at each other, and at the ridiculous 
position we were placed in ; however, if we had not been 
in excellent health and good spirits, it would have been a 
serious matter. 

Fortunately my brother was no stranger there, so help 
was at hand. Mr. Kayat, the English Consul (a native of 
Syria), sent his dragoman, who soon provided us with mat- 
ting, mattresses, and lehaflfs (i e. wadded quilts), and we 
made a sort of impromptu divan. 

Soon afterwards our kind friend, Mr. Graham, of Jeru- 
salem, came to see us ; he stood outside the window in the 
presence of the garde^ who watched us ; and if our visitor 
had touched our hands, he would have been obliged to share 
our quarantine lodging. Mr. G. lent us some of his tent 
furniture, cooking utensils, &c., and made our abode more 
comfortable. 



6 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

When we sent to the market for provisions, we had to put 
the money in a cup of water to prevent infection, but we 
certainly looked more wholesome than any of the dirty little 
half-naked messengers who executed our commissions, and 
by whose aid we obtained fowls, goat's milk, coffee, rice, 
firuit, and vegetables, at a very reasonable rate. 

There were two rooms in addition to ours opening into 
the courtyard; one was occupied by a party of Moslem 
travellers, and the other by the Franciscan pilgrims. The 
courtyard was in shade and cooler than the rooms, so with 
one accord we all took breakfast there. 

The Moslems, after pouring water over their hands 
and feet, spread their carpets, prayed, and then sat round 
a dish of rice, butter, and tomatoes, putting their hands 
together into the dish. They ate rapidly and in silence, 
then washed their hands, and smoked tchibouques and 
narghiles. The monks, who spoke French, Italian, and 
Spanish, invited us to share some of their conserves and 
syrups. 

When the heat of the day had passed, we were allowed 
to take a walk, accompanied by a garde, to prevent our 
contact with human beings. 

We gladly descended the steps of our prison, and reached 
the broad sands ; the sun was going down, tinging the sea 
and the sky, and the white walls of Yfi<fa, with a red 
glow. We walked along the shore towards the south, 
with drifted sand hills, more or less covered with vege- 
tation on our left, and the waves of the sea approaching 
us on our right. We saw the skeleton of a camel half- 
sunk in the sand, and found many shells, and dorsal 
bones of cuttle fish. About a mile from the quarantine 
station the beach was entirely composed of shells, most 
of them broken. The rocks, which form natural jetties, or 
rise up out of the beach, seem to be a sort of conglomerate 
of sand and shells, in every stage of hardness ; for though 
these rocks were to appearance all alike, some masses were 
as firm and hard as marble; but other parts crumbled easily, 

\ the imbedded shells separated from the sand with verj' 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 7 

little difficulty. When the sun had quite disappeared, the 
garde turned homewards, and we obediently followed. The 
town was already illuminated, and lights were reflected 
on the quiet water from the ships at anchor. The stars 
shone brightly, for night succeeds day very rapidly in this 
latitude, and there is scarcely any evening twilight. 

The boy who acted as our cook and waiter had pre- 
pared our evening meal, of which we gladly partook, 
seated on a reed mat, under the mulberry-trees, and 
lighted by a lantern placed on a large block of stone. 
Eed ants, three-quarters of an inch long, were swarming 
around ; and cats came running out of the darkness, eager 
to share our meaL 

Many pilgrims and Bedouins were sleepiQg on the 
ground, in the open air ; and mattresses were spread on 
the flat roofs or terraces of the buildings around. 

No female servants are employed in the establishment, 
and there were no women among our fellow-prisoners. 
While my brother strolled in the starlight, smoking, I pre- 
pared our room as comfortably as possible under the cir- 
cumstances ; and even from our discomforts we extracted 
amusement, and at the same time learnt some useful lessons 
in the distinction of the real and fancied necessaries of 
civilized life. 

The next day, the quarantine doctor (a Frenchman) sent 
word that he would visit us, to ascertain the state of our 
healths. 

Presently he appeared in the little courtyard, with three 
official attendants ; they stood opposite our doorway, care- 
fully avoiding contact with ourselves and the other inmates 
of the quarantiae. He greeted us with a profusion of com- 
pliments on our healthful appearance, and congratulated 
us on having obtained the best room in the station, and 
especially on having it entirely to ourselves ! He left us 
with stately bows, and said, kissing his hand, " I shall 
have the pleasure to give you pratique to-morrow." 

On July the 3d, at half-past seven, we were set at 
liberty, and gladly mounted the steps at the back of the 



8 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

quarantine station, traversed the extensive burial-ground, 
and passed the Government store-house, a large building 
outside the town, where a crowd of camels were waiting to 
be relieved of their burdens, and women veiled and shrouded 
in white drapery, were standing in groups, with baskets of 
mulberries and grapes balanced on their heads. On our 
left hand were the moated and battlemented walls of Y&fa, 
and on the other gardens of orange and lemon-trees, pahns 
and pomegranates, which threw a chequered shade upon 
the sandy ground. We soon came to the broad road, 
just outside the town-gate, where camels and peasants, 
mules and muleteers, were congregated, and a bustling 
market of fruit and vegetables was being held. Booths 
and tents, sheltering turbaned and tarbouched smokers, 
were pitched under tall trees ; and the itinerant vendors 
of coffee, sherbet, and glowing charcoal (ready to light the 
hundreds of pipes and narghiles around), seemed to be in 
great request. 

In passing under the archway into the town, we had 
to walk carefully, to avoid getting entangled in the camel- 
ropes. I was glad to find shelter from the burning sun in 
the bazaars, which are long arcades, shaded overhead with 
cloth or matting, with little open shops on each side. In 
many of them were shoemakers, cutting out yellow morocco 
.slippers, or heavy red leather boots ; and taUors, marking 
out graceful patterns for gold embroidery, &c. ; pipe-makers, 
modelling red clay bowls for tchibouques, — all seated on 
their heels, on little platforms, about two feet from the 
ground ; while, in another part of the bazaar, the silks of 
Aleppo and Damascus, the cottons of Manchester, and 
veils of Constantinople and Switzerland (squares of soft 
muslin, of showy patterns and many colours, called 
manadll), were exposed for sale, the shopkeepers gravely 
smoking, seated at their ease among the gay wares. The 
barbers' shops and the coffee houses were much larger and 
more frequented than any of the others. I met no women 
in the bazaars ; men and boys do all the marketing in 
the towns of the Holy Land 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 9 

We descended a narrow, ruinous street of stairs, to the 
English consulate, which was at that time close to the sea- 
side. We were kindly welcomed, and led across a court 
to a square and vaulted stone chamber, with a deep raised 
recess in a rudely-built casemented balcony, looking on to 
the sea. A cosily-cushioned divan and a Turkey carpet 
made this a most pleasant retreat ; and there, freed from 
the restraints of quarantine, I soon felt quite at home with 
Mrs. Kayat (an Arab), who, with Eastern hospitality, said, 
" This house is yours ; order all things as you wilL" 

Her young sister Furhah, who spoke English pretty well 
(thanks to the American Mission-school of Beirout), wore 
a white muslin dress, open to the waist, and exposing a 
thin net shirt, which did not conceal her neck and bosom ; 
and through the semi-transparent skirt her full Turkish 
trousers of blue silk could be seen. Their mother was 
dressed in a black velvet jacket, seamed with silver, and a 
soft white silk skirt. 

A number of gentlemen were in the body of the room, a 
step below us ; they, as well as the ladies, were smoking 
narghiles. Strong coffee, without milk, and in tiny cups 
without handles, held in silver filagree stands (exactly of 
the size and shape of common egg cups), were handed 
round ; after partaking of which, it is customary to incline 
the head slightly, raising the hand to the forehead, and 
thus to salute the host or hostess, who, in return, does the 
same to the guests. 

An Arab breakfast was prepared, and a large party 
assembled to partake of it, including three beautiful little 
girls, the Consul's children, in a pretty costume, half 
European and half Oriental A large dish of rice, boiled 
in butter, with pieces of fried meat imbedded in it, formed 
the staple dish. Vegetable marrows, filled with inincemeat 
and spices in place of the seeds which had been scooped 
out; some excellent fish; minced meat and rice, rolled up 
in vine leaves, and dressed like small sausages ; a happy 
mSlange of meat, tomatoes, pine seeds, butter, and eggs ; 
followed by roast fowl and a good salad ; and a dessert, 



10 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

composed of all the fruits that the gardens of Yslfa could 
furnish, gave me a very favourable impression of the 
summer resources of a town on the coast of Palestine. 

At about mid-day, after this meal, nearly every one of 
the famUy sought rest, lounging on the divans or mos- 
quito-curtained beds, to smoke or to sleep. 

When the sultry hour of noon had passed, Mrs. Kayat 
invited me to go with her to see her cousin. Sit Leah, and 
her newly bom infant son. The ladies were soon ready 
for the walk, for the universal out-door dress is very 
simple : it consists of a coloured muslin veil, about a yard 
square, thrown over the head and face, a scarf or shawl 
girdle is fastened round the waist, and then a fine calico 
sheet, about two yards or more square, is put on like a 
cloak, but drawn up high over the head, and folded 
neatly on the forehead, brought under the chin, crossed 
over the breast, and, overlapping down the front, hides the 
dress entirely. It is tucked into the girdle in front, so as 
to lift it about three inches from the ground ; at the back 
it is allowed to faU quite smoothly in a straight line to the 
heels. The hands are kept inside and hold the sheet, so 
that only the coloured mask of mush'n over the face is 
visible. No individual could be recognised in this dis- 
guise, except by some peculiarity in the manner of walking 
or singularity of figure. Yellow or red shoes, turned up at 
the toes, complete the costume. 

My readers may easily imitate this costume with a 
sheet, and a coloured silk handkerchief for a veil, and 
thus form a good idea of the general out-door appearance 
of the women in the chief towns of Palestine. It must 
be rememberedj however, that not a vestige of crinoline 
is to be seen, and full soft trousers with sometimes a 
skirt over them, a jacket, and a shirt, is all that is worn 
under the tzzar or sheet?' The three shrouded ladies led 
me out, and a kawass {^ot unnecessarily) went before to 

* Is this the kind of sheet referred to in Judges xiv. 12 — 18, where 
Samson says, '* If you find out my riddle I will give you thirty sheets, and 
thirty changes of garments"? 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 11 

clear the way; for in the narrow streets of stairs, with 
their tortuous turnings and broken steps, it is well to have 
notice of the coining of a frisky horse, a heavUy laden 
mule, or a ponderous cameL 

At the arched entrances of some of the large houses 
I noticed fragments of granite columns, marble bases, 
carved capitals and cornices, which had probably been 
transported from the ruins of Asc&lon ; they are used as 
stepping-stones for moimting and dismounting. 

We entered a low doorway, and found ourselves in a 
courtyard, where a group of negresses were busy washing. 
They took me by surprise by seizing my hands, kissing 
them, and pressing them to their ebony foreheads. I soon 
learnt to be on my guard, and to draw my hand away 
firmly but courteously, in time to elude the embrace ; for I 
observed that this is the way the act of submission is 
expected to be received; the refusal to accept the kiss 
shows that you do not wish the individual who proffers it, 
to humble himself before you- 

However, under certain circumstances, the case is dif- 
ferent ; for instance, if a person asks forgiveness of you, 
or protection, or any favour, your refusal to allow him to 
kiss your hand or your feet is a sign that his request is not 
granted. 

Priests always exact this homage, and it is very readily 
paid to them; but laymen, who invariably allow it, gene- 
rally gain the sobriquet of " Khouri" (priest). 

We ascended a stone staircase to a terrace leading to 
two rooms. We entered the first, a pretty little square 
whitewashed room, draped with pink and white muslin. 
In one comer was a bed, made on the floor, and a narrow 
mattress, about a yard wide, ran round the other sides of 
the room ; cushions covered with damask were leaning 
against the walls, and thus a comfortable lounge was 
formed ; a Turkey carpet concealed the stone floor. Several 
ladies were seated, a la Turque, on the divan, smoking 
narghiles, the long flexible tubes of which radiated from 
the group of large red Bohemian glass bottles, which stood 



12 DOMESTIC UFB IN PALESTINE. 

bubbling and sparkling in the centre of the room. On the 
low bed a young mother was reclining; her dark wavy- 
hair unbraided, escaped over the embroidered piUow; her 
red tarbouche was decorated with folds of blue crape and 
everlasting flowers, her pale hands rested on the crimson 
silk wadded quilt, and her striped Aleppo yeUow and white 
silk dress contrasted well with the dark brilliancy of her 
fever-bright face and eyes. I took her hand in mine, and 
she said, " Welcome, my sister ; my lips must be silent, but 
my heart is speaking to your heart." She lifted up a tiny 
blue velvet lehaff (quilt), embroidered with silver threstd, 
and revealed a baby boy of a few days old. I took him in 
my arms. The ladies with one accord said, " May you soon 
have the joy of holding in your arms new offspring of your 
father's house ! may your brother soon be married, and 
blest with many sons !" 

The infant I held in my arms was so bound in swaddling 
clothes that it was perfectly firm and solid, and looked 
like a mummy. It had a band under its chin and across 
its forehead, and a little quilted silk cap on its head, with 
tiny coins of gold sewn to it ; the outer covering of this 
little figure was of crimson and white striped silk; no 
sign of arms or legs, hands or feet, could be seen. 

Leah's sister-in-law (whose head was much decorated 
with jewelry and artificial flowers) took the child from me 
and placed it in a swing cradle, draped with pink and white 
muslin, and everlasting flowers. She covered the little 
creature with such heavy quilts that it seemed in danger 
of suffocation ; then she closed the curtains round it, tiU 
there was no aperture left at which a mosquito could enter. 

After sherbet and coffee had been handed round by a 
black servant, I was led to the next room, where I found 
my brother with Habib Naslr, the husband of Leah, the 
proud father of a firstborn son. I congratulated him, and 
his reply was a wish that I might soon have to congratu- 
late my brother on a similar occasion. (This is the cus- 
tomary answer.) 

In each of the rooms there were modern Greek pictures 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. IS 

of sacred subjects, rude imitations of ancient Byzantine art, 
proclaiming that Habib was a member of the Greek Church. 

I returned to the consulate to prepare for our journey 

towards Jerusalem, Mr. Graham and Mr. H , a wanderer 

from the Crimea (then the seat of war), who had just arrived 
by Austrian steamer, having arranged to travel with us. 
When our lu^age was in the care of the muleteers, and 
our horses were ready, we took a slight collation of goat's 
milk, cheese, fruit, sweetened starch, and native wines, in 
Mrs. Kayat's room, seated on the cushioned floor, round a 
low table inlaid with mother of pearL 

After taking leave of our kind host and his family, we 
mounted at their door, their blessings and good wishes 
ringing in our ears: "Go in peace, and return to us in 
safety; return speedily; peace be with you," &c. The 
chfldren and servants echoed the words till we were out of 
sight. An old man, in a coat of many colours, shaped like 
a sack, and with a curious mosaic-looking vandyked pattern 
on the iack of it, led my horse up the steep streets of 
stairs, through the crowded bazaars, and out of the town 
gate, which we had entered in the morning. It is in the 
middle of the east wall, and is the only land gata I 
must here remind my younger readers that wheeled car- 
riages are not used in Palestine ; I never saw even such a 
thing as a wheelbarrow there ; in fact, the roads are so bad 
that such conveyances would be useless ; so people always 
travel on camels, or mules, or donkeys, or on horses, as we 
did. It was now about six o'clock, and just outside the 
gate the inhabitants of Yafa were enjoying their pipes in 
the shade of the city, for the sun was going down towards 
the sea ; others were riding and galloping along the broad 
sandy road, which led us to a pleasant bridle path between 
hedges of a gigantic kind of cactus (the opuntia), the large, 
fleshy, thick-jointed stems of which were fringed with 
yellow flowers, promising a rich haivest of prickly pears ; 
these formidable hedgerows rising from two to eight, and 
sometimes even ten or twelve feet in height, were wreathed 
with graceful creepers, the briony, the clematis, and the 



14 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

wild vine twining their tendrils together. Our Crimean 
friend suggested that such a cactus hedge would prove an 
impenetrable barrier to advancing cavalry. This pleasant 
sandy path led us for three or four miles between beautiful 
fruit gardens, where the palm-tree, laden with golden fruit, 
towered high above all other trees ; oranges, lemons, pis- 
tachios, apricots, almonds, and mulberries were ripening ; 
the pomegranate-tree showed its thick clusters of scarlet 
flowers; and acacias, locust-trees, tamarisks, silvery olives, 
and broad-leaved fig-trees flourished. It was about half- 
past six when we reached the open country beyond the 
extensive and well-cultivated gardens of YS,fa. The sun 
was going down behind us, over the sea ; the far away hills 
towards which we were journeying (east by south) were 
crowned with glowing red, while purple night shadows 
were rising rapidly ; we passed through fields of mallows 
and gardens of cucumbers, with tents or little stone lodges 
for the gardeners scattered here and there. 

The sun went down ; vultures and kites were sweeping 
through the air ; and as the darkness increased, our little 
party, consisting of six muleteers, our servants, and our- 
selves, assembled together to keep in close company for the 
rest of the way. 

We could distinguish parties of field labourers and 
oxen at rest by the road-side, and sometimes we came 
to a rude threshing-floor, where, by the light of a 
bonfire of weeds and thorns, we saw Eembrandt-like 
groups of rough-looking, half-clad peasants, some of them 
sleeping, and others lighting their long pipes with the 
fragrant embers. Our muleteers were singing monotonous 
and plaintive songs, only interrupted now and then when 
the jogging mules disarranged their burdens by jolting 
against each other, and the drivers would cry out, ^^ Ai-wa ! 
Ai'war* an interjection of very flexible signification, which 
answers nearly to our ''Now ihent'^ when used deprecatingly, 
or to " All right," or " Go on," under more favourable circum- 
stances. 

We rode on in the darkness over an undulating plain. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 15 

occasionally passing a well, a tomb, a little sleeping 
village, or a grove of ancient olive-trees, and reached 
Eamleh at half-past nine. 

We had been invited to pass the night at the house of 
one of the principal Christian Arabs of the town, and soon 
met his servants and lantern-bearers, who had been watch- 
ing for us. They led the way up a flight of stone steps to 
a small square court, round which lofty stone chambers 
were built. 

Our host then conducted us to the guest-chamber, "a 
large upper room, furnished " with divans and cushioned 
window-seats. 

His wife — a handsome and stately-looking woman, in 
rich Oriental costume — came to salute and welcome us. 
She took me to a long vaulted stone chamber, where two 
mattresses were spread on the floor ; one was for me, and 
the other for two negresses who were appointed to attend 
ma Supper was spread for our party in an arched recess 
of the court, by two Abyssinian men-servants, who waited 
on us with intelligence and alacrity. 

Presently, two awkward but good-natured-looking, black, 
wooUy-headed, tall, white-robed, shoeless girls, led me to 
my room. They poured hot and cold water alternately over 
my feet and hands, and did all they could to make me com- 
fortable. After a few hours' rest, I rose by the light of the 
moon, which streamed in at the wide, unglazed, arched 
window. 

The hinges, locks, and door-handles throughout the 
house were of beautiful design, somewhat resembling 
Italian work of the sixteenth century. 

By the time the muleteers were roused, and our horses 
were in readiness for the journey, the sun had risen, and 
we hastened away. The market-places were already busy 
with buyers and sellers. The gardens of Eamleh are 
extensive and fertile ; the date-palm, especially, flourishes 
there. The soil is sandy.* 

♦ " Ramleh '* is the Arabic word for sandy ; Arab names of places are 
Tery frequently descriptive. 



16 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

Just outside the town, under a clump of tamarisk-trees, 
sat a group of dirty-looking Arabs, in picturesque rags. 
As we passed, they rose from their stony seats, and ad- 
vanced towards us. Holding out little tin cups for alms. I 
then perceived that the poor creatures were lepers ! Their 
faces were so disfigured, that they scarcely looked human ; 
the eyelids and lips of some were quite destroyed, while 
the faces of others were swollen into frightful masses. It 
was the saddest sight I ever saw. 

The families afficted with this terrible and hereditary 
disease intermarry, and sometimes the immediate offspring 
are free from any appearance of it, but it is sure to revive 
in the succeeding generation ; some of them appear quite 
healthy till they are nineteen or twenty, but they feel them- 
selves to be a doomed race, and live quite apart from the 
rest of the world, subsisting almost entirely on charity — for 
often their fingers rot off and render their hands useless. 

In return for the few piastres we gave them, they cried, 
in hoarse whispers, "May it return to you tenfold!" — 
" Peace be with you !" We passed through fertile fields and 
orchards, overtaking peasants leading oxen or laden camels, 
or shepherd boys guiding flocks of goats to pasture land. 
Though the sun was low, and sent our shadows in long 
lines behind us, yet the rays were fierce with light and 
heat ; the fields of sesame (called airrmm in Arabic) looked 
very pretty. It is a taU bright green plant, with upright 
stems, garnished with blossoms, somewhat like the fox- 
glove, white, shaded with pink; the seeds yield a very 
fine oil, almost equal to oliva Blue chicory, yellow 
flax, the hardy goat's beard and convolvulus, of many 
tints, large and small, bordered the road. We soon reached 
an uncultivated part of the undulating plain, where the 
ground was burnt up and cracked into deep wide fissures, 
and where large blocks of stone, like cromlechs, cast their 
shadows. I watched numbers of green lizards and strange 
reptiles, running rapidly in and out of the cracks, and under 
and over the rocks, pausing sometimes, opening their eyes 
of fire to the sun, and nodding their large heads quaintly. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 17 

Wnd ducks were flapping their wings above our heads. 
Camels every now and then passed in strings of three or 
four together, their drivers bending and touching their fore- 
heads gracefully, as we passed ; some of the peasants wore 
scarcely any clothing; flocks of goats and cattle were 
browsing on the scanty bumt-up pasture, and the shepherd 
boys were piping on rude instruments made of cane or reed. 
At half-past eight o'clock, we were in the shelter of the 
hills, and paused for a few moments at the entrance of 
a woody and rocky valley, called Wady- Aly ; some Arabs 
brought us a supply of good water, in leather bottles ; Mr. 
Finn, H.B.M. consul at Jerusalem, had sent his kawass there 
to meet and welcome us and to lead the way, for in the hiU 
country a skilful pilot is required ; wild fig-trees, dwarf oaks, 
and thorns, grew among the rocks, and thousands of larks, 
disturbed by our approach, rose high into the air, but they 
did not sing the sweet song of the larks of our corn-fields. 
We passed over steep hills, wild and rocky, with trea- 
cherous stones slipping from under the feet of the often 
stumbling horses ; sometimes the passes were so narrow 
that we had to ride singly, watching the leader carefully in 
his ins and outs among bushes and rocks. On the summits 
of many of the rounded hills there are ruins and large hewn 
stones, which have given rise to much discussion among 
BibKcal topographists. We saw traces of terraces, and of 
former careful cultivation everywhere, but the winter tor- 
rents have been allowed to sweep away the protecting stones, 
and the rich red loam is washed down, so that in many 
places large masses of bare limestone are exposed; but 
wherever the earth rests, however scantily, there is vegeta- 
tion; and dwarf trees, shrubs, and aromatic herbs, thorns 
and thistles, prove the natural fertility of the soil; even 
out of the small handfuls of earth washed into the holes 
and crevices of the rocks, tiny flowers spring, especially 
the wild pink and crane's-bilL We took zigzag paths up 
the faces of hills which looked almost perpendicular; 
sometimes we gained a height commanding views of the 
Great Sea and the plain of Sharon on one side, and the hills 

c 



18 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

which concealed the city of Jerusalem on the other ; then 
again we were in a narrow valley, or closed in by a seem- 
ingly impassable amphitheatre of hills ; here and there our 
road was along ledges, so narrow (with a rocky ravine below, 
and a hill rising abruptly like a wall above), that we took 
the precaution of sending our leader to the end of the pass, 
to see that the way was clear, and to keep it so till we 
could traverse it. Eagles and vultures swept through the 
air. The sky was intensely blue, and the sun very power- 
ful ; sparrows and finches were twittering among the trees. 

At about ten o'clock we dismounted by a little telly or 
mound, in the centre of a triangular space, where three valleys 
meet. Here there is a well of sweet and excellent water, 
and round it olives, %s, locust-trees, and evergreen oaks 
grow ; a party of Bedouins were watering their camels at 
the stone trough connected with the well ; under the plea^ 
sant tree-shadows we rested ; and on a bank of wild thyme 
and sweet marjoram we spread our simple provisions — " a 
basket of summer Jruit" a few thin cakes of flour, and 
some new wine. At the entrance to an extensive cavern, 
in the base of a hill opposite to us, a group of peasants 
were sleeping ; the cave, like many smaller ones which we 
had seen, had been fashioned originally by nature, but man 
had at some period or other smoothed the inner wall, and 
made a dwelling there. 

When we remounted, we passed through a partially 
cultivated district; groves of olive-trees bordered the dry 
bed of a winter torrent, and patches of vines and vegetables 
and stubble-fields appeared on the terraces, till we came 
to higher and steeper hills in the neighbourhood of Ajalon, 
covered with sage and wild lavender. The heat was sensibly 
increasing till about noon, when a pleasant breeze arose ; 
this is generally the case in the hill country in the summer 
time, the breeze rises at -about twelve, lasts for an hour or 
two, and cools the air. We came into a cultivated region 
again, announcing a village near, and soon saw the white 
walls of the square castle-like houses of Abu Ghaush, on 
hillside, and the fine ruins of an ancient Christian church 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 19 

to which a Franciscan convent was formerly attached. We 
dismounted at its large arched entrance, the groined roof 
and clerestory, supported by tall massive columns, are in 
good preservation. This building is now used as a stable 
and khan, but has often served the purpose of a fortress ; it 
is very long since it echoed the litanies of the Franciscans, 
for they were expelled about the middle of the thirteenth 
century, when the sultan of Egjrpt conquered Jerusalem. 

A cousin of the robber chief, the celebrated Abti Ghaush, 
is now sheikh of the village, and it is his policy to be very 
poKte to Frank travellers. 

We rested for a little while on the step of the church door ; 
a group of women were drawing water from a well, we 
watched them as they walked one after the other towards 
the village, with the replenished jars poised perfectly on 
their heads. Herds of cattle and flocks of goats on the 
surrounding hills, richly cultivated orchards and vineyards, 
and a few palm-trees, proclaimed this little village rich and 
flourishing; it is now called '^ Kuryet el-Enah^'^ village of 
grapes (the ancient Kirjath-Jearim probably). 

A few hills more or less difficult were traversed, one, 
which seemed only fit for goats and conies to ramble over, 
we descended on foot, sKding over slabs of stone as smooth 
as polished marble, and leaping from rock to rock, over 
thorns and briars, till I was tired, and glad to mount again. 
Then we came to a pleasant terraced road, made on the 
slope of a hill, looking down into a fertile valley, where 
an Arab village has risen on the site of an ancient Eoman 
.colony, the record of which is preserved in the modern 
name Kol6nieh ; traces of an amphitheatre and fortifications 
were pointed out to me. We crossed to the opposite side 
of the valley, and pursued our way along a rocky ledge, 
till we came to a spring of living water, gushing from a 
rock above into a trough, which overflowed constantly, the 
water finding its way through ducts into the vaUey below. 
Maiden-hair, delicate creepers, and ferns, grew around, and 
thousands of birds congregated there — it is called the 
Fountain of birds. We, as well as our horses, enjoyed the 

c2 



20 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

deliciously cool water. We rode on again, and soon crossed 
an ancient Eoman bridge, built over a water-conrse ; there 
are the remains of a Jewish city by this stream, and local 
tradition says that David took* from its bed the pebble 
which gave the death-blow to Goliath ; large stones, care- 
fully hewn and bevelled, are scattered in heaps, and half 
concealed by hawthorn bushes, wild rose-trees, fruit-laden 
blackberry brambles, and tall thistles ; others appear among 
rough imhewn stones, in the low walls which mark the 
boundaries of the vineyards and orchards near at hand- 
No doubt these large stones were once portions of stately 
palaces and strongholds, erected by skilful Hebrew builders 
long ago. Amos said, "Ye have built houses of hewn 
stone, but ye shall not dwell in them ; ye have planted 
pleasant vineyards, but ye shall not drink wine in them." 

The Arabs have a proverb in common use, which says, 
" The Jews built ; the Greeks planted ; and the Turks de- 
stroy." It is true that in nearly every town or village 
or deserted ruin in Judea, some traces of the massive archi- 
tecture of the Jews (whose forefathers had served their 
toilsome apprenticeship in Egypt, among pyramids and 
temples), are discovered, sometimes serving as the foxmda- 
tion of Roman citadels and theatres, which in their turn 
have fallen to give place to the Moorish arch or minaret, and 
the mud-built hovel of the peasant ; while all the ancient 
olive-trees, which stand in regular and equidistant rows, 
forming avenues in all directions, are said to have been 
planted by the Greeks, and present a striking contrast to 
the wild wood-like picturesqueness of younger olive planta- 
tions now fruitful and flourishing, as well as to the still 
more ancient trees now falling to decay. 

Presently Mr. Graham said, " Now, Miss Eogers, prepare 
yourself for a treat ; when we reach the summit of this 
hill, our eyes shall behold the city of the Great King." I 
quickened my pace, forgot my fatigue, and was soon on the 
hill-top, pausing to look around me, requiring no guide 
to point out the long low line of battlemented wall, 
with a few domes and minarets rising above it, crown- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 21 

ing the table-land of a hill which stood in the midst 
of hills, and I knew that I was looking on Jerusalem, 
"builded as a city," and "the mountains round about her." 
The afternoon sun was shining from behind us, brightening 
the white walls of the city; the grey green tints of Olivet, 
which rises just beyond, and the long chain of the far- 
away mountains of Moab, seen here and there through 
openings in the Judsean hills. The Mount of Olives 
"which is before Jerusalem on the east," says ZecariaJk, is 
separated by slight depressions into three distinct parts, 
on the central and highest point a white walled Moslem 
village stands, with olive and mulberry-trees clustering 
round it; near the summit of the northern hill, a little 
isolated square stone tower is conspicuous, and when Mr. 
G. pointed it out, he invited me to pay him a visit there, 
for it was his summer retreat, and was commonly called 
"Graham Castle," by Europeans in Jerusalem. 

We descended into a long, narrow, stony valley ; but 
the view from the hiU-top we were leaving was already 
photographed on my brain, and I have never lost the 
impression. Though I have seen Jerusalem under more 
beautiful aspects, and from more favourable points of view, 
the first sight had its peculiar charm. 

We left the YSfa road, and made our way towards the 
TaUbeyeh, where Mr. Finn, the English consul, encamps in 
summer time ; it is about a mile west of the city. We rapidly 
approached a low rough stone wall, inclosing a large tract 
of partially cultivated land, on a gradually sloping hill, 
looking towards Jerusalem ; on the highest part of the 
ground a small square stone building stood, with seven or 
eight tents pitched near to it, among rocks, young trees 
and shrubs. This I foimd was the consular encampment, 
and gladly 1 dismounted there, at four o'clock, p.m. 
welcomed by the Consul and his family. 

The stone house consists simply of one lofty double 
vaulted chamber, which serves for dining and general sitting- 
room, with verandah-sheltered seats outside it, looking 
towards the east ; an arched recess (or lewaUy as it is called in 



22 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

Arabic and Turkish) looks towards the west, and conse- 
quently is in shade in the morning ; kitchens and offices 
occupy the third and fourth sides. It was built by Jewish 
labourers, of a red and yellowish stone, from a quarry on 
the estate, and is not plastered either inside or out. 

Mrs. Finn led me across a rough path, among little 
patches of newly cultivated red earth, where melons, 
cucumbers, and vegetable marrows, were flourishing ; and 
young castor- oil trees, palms, and oleanders, were springing 
up between large masses of rock; in their shelter the 
sweet basil, pinks, roses, as well as many English seedlings, 
were being coaxed into existence, making a cheerful though 
wild looking garden round the pretty Egyptian tent pre- 
pared for me, the ropes of which were attached to some 
vigorous olive trees, of two or three years' growth. I found 
my boxes, &c. already there, for the muleteers had arrived 
an hour or two before us. The blue tent lining appliquM 
with black and scarlet borders, in patterns of good design, 
on the white canvas, the crimson cloth carpet, and simple 
tent furniture, looked bright and cheerful ; while the views 
of the Bethlehem plain, Moimt Zion, and Jerusalem, from 
the tent door, delighted me. 

We passed the evening pleasantly with Mr. and Mrs. Finn, 
talking over our journey, and planning future ones ; their 
children were eager to show me their treasures, and to take 
me to all the memorable spots in the neighbourhood they 
knew so well, for they were bom in, and had scarcely ever 
been out of sight of Jerusalem. " I will take you to Olivet, 
and to the top of Moimt Scopus, and then you can see the 
river Jordan and the Dead Sea,'* said Skander, the eldest 
boy ; and little Constance added, " Mamma, may I take 
Miss Rogers to see Judas's tree, and the Garden of Gethse- 
mane, and may we go to Bethlehem and to Solomon's 
Pools?" 

These children, who had grown up amid such scenes, 
and who had learnt to speak Arabic simultaneously with 
English, interested me exceedingly, evincing in all they 
said and did the effect of the influences around them. I 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 23 

showed to Constance an engraving of an English sea-side 
view, and she immediately said, pointing to a castle, "There's 
the tower of David ; and again, pointing to the bathing 
machines, exclaimed, " These are the tombs of the kings, 
and there is the Dead Sea," the only sea which she had 
ever seen. After tea, the little ones were led by their 
pleasant looking Armenian nurse, Em Issa, to the nursery 
tent, and Skander, wishing me good night, added, " Do not 
be afraid if you hear the jackals crying and barking, they 
wiU not come to our tents ; but we hear them every night, 
and they wake the dogs, and the horses, and the donkey, 
and then sometimes they all make a noise together." At 
an early hour, Helw4, a woman of Bethlehem, brought in 
the lanterns which were to light us to our several tents ; 
Mrs. F. led me to mine, and showed me how to secure it ; 
while her niece warned me to look well at my clothes, and 
shake them before putting them on in the morning, to get 
rid of ants or spiders, or perhaps a scorpion, which might 
creep into them at night. I watched the lanterns as they 
dispersed over the grounds to the different tents, and soon 
fell asleep amid the scenes and sounds that were so strange 
to me. It was difficult to realise the fact that I had left 
London only three weeks before. 



CHAPTEE II. 



IN the early morning, childish voices called me to come 
to breakfast in the lewan, on the shady side of the 
house. The sun was shining brightly over the city 
and the hiUs, but the western walls and slopes were still 
in shade. 

After breakfast, we went to the sitting-room, which was 
almost as simply furnished as a hermitage, with rustic 
tables, camp stools, matting, and a few rough shelves for 
books and toys. 

I sat on the doorstep, and looked over a rocky, thorny 
slope to a ridge which I was told marked the course 
of the valley of Hinnom, beyond which rose the western 
wall of Jerusalem, the turreted and massive-looking tower 
of David, and the Ydfa gate breaking its monotony. 

The Anglican church and consulate, with its pointed 
fagade and strikingly modem appearance, the large white- 
domed Armenian convent, a minaret, a few palm-trees, 
pines, and cypresses, was all I could see of the Holy City, 
for it slopes eastward. 

On my right hand was the plain of Eephaim : it spreads 
southwards towards a rounded hill, which is crowned by the 
convent of Mar Elias ; long lines of camels, troops of horse- 
men, flocks of goats, vegetable-laden asses, and groups of 
peasant women, with baskets or bundles on their heads, were 
coming and going all day, along the broad road which crosses 
this plain, and vultures and eagles swept through the air. 

In the afternoon I rode out with my brother. We went 
down into the stony valley of the Convent of the Cross, 
passing the white-waUed newly-restored Greek convent. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 25 

and made our way, among rocks and thorns, to the valley 
of Hinnom, well planted with olives, figs, and pome- 
granates ; we ascended the hill leading to the Yfifa gate, 
meeting many people on foot and on horseback, who 
were just starting for a stroll before sunset. We passed 
under the deep pointed archway, through the vaulted 
chamber in the great gate, along by the waU and deep 
moat of the citadel or tower of David, and then turned 
down a narrow passage, leading to the consulate, which 
adjoined the English church; here we dismounted; and 
I felt a strange joy when, for the first time, my feet stood 
within thy gates, Jerusalem ! 

Mr.Bartlett has made the streets of the Holy City so 
familiar in his " Walks about Jerusalem," and " Jerusalem 
Revisited," and Mr. Murray's invaluable Hand-book gives 
its topography and statistics so perfectly, that I wiU refer 
my readers to those sources, and only give a slight account 
of the city as I saw it. 

My brother led me back to the open space in the front 
of the citadel, where a daily market is held in the early 
morning ; we passed a large open caf^, where soldiers and 
groups of Moslems were smoking ; and the Latin convent, 
a large weU-built stone edifice, with a long flat roof 
which serves for a terrace, where a number of monks and 
boys, in black robes, were walking in monotonous proces- 
sion. The Anglican bishop's town-house also overlooks this 
market-place, out of which we turned into a bustling street, 
paved with gradually descending shallow steps, so smooth 
and worn, and so scattered with melon-parings and other 
vegetable refuse that it was difi&cult to find a sure footing ; 
on each side there were Arab shops, the owners of which 
were folding up their gay wares, or stowing away baskets 
of dried fruit or trays of pipes, preparatory to closing for 
the night, for it was past the eleventh hour. We turned 
up Christian Street (the first turning on the left), where, 
besides the truly Oriental barbers' shops, the cofiee-houses, 
pipe-makers, and bakers, there are several European 
establishments, kept by Maltese and Italians, &c., pretty 



26 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

well supplied from London and Paris with ornamental 
as well as usefal and necessary articles of dress ; though, 
as may be anticipated, a large per-centage is charged. We 
met crowds of Moslems, Spanish and German Jews, 
Bedouins, Greeks, and monks of many orders, &c. I heard 
my brother greeted and welcomed by name, in various 
languages, by passers-by, for he was well known in the 
city, where he had passed several years as cancelih-e in 
the British Consulate. We made our way to the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre, and paused in the square courtyard 
in front of it, to look at its beautiful fa9ade. Two arched 
doorways, side by side, with deep intricate mouldings en- 
riched with ball flowers, are divided by a magn^cent 
cluster of five marble columns; the centre and outside 
columns are green and the others white ; the capitals are 
foliated, and richly carved; there are friezes across the 
doorways from the spring of the arches; the one to the 
right, over the door, which is bricked up, is of ornamental 
scroll-work, with boys playfully introduced in arabesque 
style; the frieze over the left door (which is the only 
entrance to the church) is a well carved alto-relievo 
picture of Christ's Entrance into the City, and the Last 
Supper, not exactly agreeing in character with the other 
frieze. We then went to the ruins of the Church of the 
Knights of St. John, near at hand ; we passed under a wide 
low Norman arch, rich with zigzag and dog-tooth mould- 
ings, marble columns, and carved capitals; we climbed 
over a dustheap, where vegetables and dead bodies of dogs 
and cats were rotting, where flies and fleas were regaling 
themselves, and half-naked, wretched-looking children were 
playing and munching melon parings ; we crossed a court- 
yard, full of abominations, assailed by barking and snarl- 
ing dogs, but tempted on by the strange beauty of this 
neglected relic of ancient chivalry. We found three high 
walls of the outer edifice standing, and within them there 
were divisions which indicated three distinct compartments ; 
one is used as a tannery, and in the others we saw skeletons 
of asses and horses, for, when animals die in the neigh- 



DOMESTIC LIFE m PALESTINE. 27 

bourhood, their carcases are dragged into this desecrated 
place to be devoured by dogs or vultures. We climbed over 
burning lime and rubbish to a rather treacherous stone 
stairway, which led us to a gallery above, corresponding 
with the cloisters below, there are two large windows 
with stone tracery, mullions, and mouldings of early 
English character, in pretty good preservation. 

Notwithstanding the offensive surroundings, I paid 
several visits to these interesting ruins. The style, for the 
most part, is like the Norman architecture of Sicily, while 
other parts of the ruins remind me of our early English 
style ; the building altogether seems originally to have been 
built to serve the purpose of a fortress as well as an eccle- 
siastical retreat. It is said to have been founded in the 
eleventh century, as a place of rest for pilgrims to the Holy 
Sepulchre. It rapidly and continually grew in importance 
tiU the middle of the thirteenth century, when Christian 
influence was suddenly overthrown, and all its monuments 
destroyed, or allowed gradually to decay, as in this in- 
stance. Above the Norman door which we had entered, I 
remarked a rich bas-relief of groups of figures, emblematic 
designs, and monograms, quaintly carved; but this has 
lately been so roughly used that it is now almost defaced, 
and future travellers will be puzzled to find it ; for when I 
revisited the spot in 1859 (four years afterwards) I found 
the door blocked up, and the space in front of it closed in 
and converted into a store or shop for the sale of glass 
beads and bracelets made at Hebroa We shook the dust 
from our feet, and stroUed a little way along the Via Dolo- 
rosa^ till we were warned by the deepening shadows, and 
the evening cries from the minarets around, that the sun 
had gone down. We hastened through the streets and 
bazaars ; the little shops were nearly all deserted by their 
owners, and shut up for the night 

Our horses were waiting at the gate, which was kept 
open for us ; a few stragglers were hastily entering in, but 
immediately that we had passed out the heavy doors were 
closed, to be opened no more till sunrise. 



'28 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. . 

The stars were coming out as we rode homewards, across 
the valley of Hinnom, and through an inclosed plantation 
belonging to the Greek community, in the centre of which, 
by a well, under the trees, sat a group of Arabs in a circle 
on cushioned mats, singing lustily, and swaying their bodies 
to and fro slowly, in time with the monotonous tune they 
sang. A large lantern hanging from a tree branch above 
lighted up the figures and their many-coloured garments, 
producing striking effects of light and shade. 

We were soon on the Talibeyeh grounds ; an immense 
number of vividly bright glow-worms bordered the rocky 
path which led towards the house. I found that by 
placing a few of them together, on a stone or cool place, I 
could see to read by the green light which shone from their 
lantern-like bodies. 

The next morning we rode to the Valley of the Cross ; 
then, over hills covered with rocks, poterium spinosum, and 
brambles, towards the little village of Lifta, near to which, 
in a beautiful olive grove on a terraced hillside, Bishop 
Gobat and the Eev. H. Crawford had encamped with their 
large families ; their tents were picturesquely distributed 
under the shade of large trees. 

There was no house on the groimds to serve as a retreat 
or shelter in the heat of the day, as on the Talibeyeh, but 
the trees under which Mrs. Gobat's pretty drawing-room or 
day tent was pitched, served almost as effectually as a pro- 
tection from the sun. Sofas, cushions, easy chairs, writing 
tables and work tables, children with their dolls or lesson 
books, made the place look quite homely and took away 
the idea of the transitory nature of tent life. Mrs. Gobat 
gave me a hearty welcome there, and introduced me to her 
friends who came from the surrounding tents, and to the 
children, who left their studies or their play to welcome us. 
Quite a large party was soon assembled in the tent and on 
the sofa under the opposite tree. After a luncheon of fruit 
and bread, olives, and cheese, &c., Mrs. Gobat smoked a nar- 
ghile evidently enjoying it, and I date the taste which I 
acquired for tumbac from the experimental pipe which I 



DOMESTIC LIFE IS PALESTINE. 29 

smoked with her. Coffee, mulberry sherbet, and bon-bons 
were handed round by Abyssinian servants in Arab styla 
Mrs. G/s fine hearty-looking children, and the fair little 
Crawfords, seemed thoroughly to enjoy tent life. They 
shewed me their swing in the mulberry tree, and their 
attempts at architecture with the heaps of stones around. 
They led me eagerly from tent to tent, the kitchens, pan- 
tries, and school, and to the neat little bed tents, and then 
pointed out some of the finest points of view — ^Neby Samuel, 
the tomb of the "Prophet Samuel," conspicuous on the 
summit of a conical hill, rising abruptly in the distance 
on one hand, and in another direction the wide-spreading 
valley, with a little village and its surrounding fields, vine- 
yards, and threshing floor. A beautiful white goat followed 
us wherever we went. It was the goat which Mr. W. Holman 
Hunt used as his model while finishing the well-known 
picture of the scapegoat. Two had died in his service, but 
this one became quite tame, and would answer to his call ; 
he gave it to these children when his picture was com- 
pleted. The loud shrill cry of the cicalas was heard from 
every olive tree, and I was assured that at night their noise 
is loud enough to keep people imaccustomed to it awake. 

I spent several pleasant days in this retreat on various 
occasions ; such as a social dinner party at the Bishop's, 
when he presided at a long table under the trees, or a 
cheerful tea party at the Crawfords', in their tents, partly 
by the light of the moon, and partly by the light of lan- 
terns hanging in the trees, or round the tent poles. In 
these rSunwnSy and at similar entertainments at Mr. 
Finn's, I made the acquaintance of most of the European 
members of the Protestant community of Jerusalem. Some- 
times we strolled about the grounds in little companies, 
visiting the vineyards and the bright green sumach plan- 
tations below, or the threshing floor above, and the few 
scattered stone and mud hovels, roofed with tree-branches, 
which were the homes of the peasant guardians of the 
ground. In one of these little nooks we saw a stone hand- 
mill and two women working it, grinding com. 



30 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

The Europeans of Jerusalem, especially those who have 
children, or who have been accustomed to temperate climes, 
generally encamp thus from June to September, and select 
a site about a mile or more from the city, so that the 
gentlemen can go into town every day, while the ladies and 
children rarely do so except on Sunday. This is one of 
the pleasantest phases in the life of the European resident 
in Jerusalem, and it may be justly attributed to Mr. Finn, 
for he was the first who ventured thus to trust himself and 
his family in the open country, and his little stone house 
on the Talibeyeh (of which he was the architect, while 
Jews were its iDuilders) was the first and for a long time the 
only private dwelling-house outside the city, whereas now, 
1861, buildings of importance and commodious dweUing- 
houses are rapidly rising on the hills round about Jeru- 
salem. 

On Sunday, July 8th, we had a pleasant early ride into 
town, and the chimes of the church bells welcomed us. 
Flags were hoisted at all the consulates. Ladies and 
children from distant encampments were alighting at the 
doors of the Anglican church from sleek and gaily trapped 
donkeys. The congregation consisted of about a hundred 
Europeans, including children, and about half as many 
Arab and Jewish converts. The transepts were occupied 
by the children of the diocesan schools, all in simple 
European dress, but it was easy to distinguish the bright 
intelligent countenances of the Jewish children, the gentle 
and amiable-looking little Abyssinians, black as ebony ; the 
long-headed Copts ; the precocious and handsome Arabs ; 
and the pretty little Armenians, in spite of their un- 
characteristic costumes. 

The glare and heat were excessive, so I gladly accepted 
shelter at Mr. Nicolayson's till the cool of the day, and we 
rode to the Talibeyeh a little before sunset. Crowds of 
Arabs in holiday costume were strolling on the Medan, 
a large extent of table-land north-west of the city, where 
the troops are exercised. It is the favourite promenade of 
the citizens. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 31 

The men's dresses were picturesque and various in the 
extreme, and of every tint and colour, from the sombre 
robes of the processions of monks, to the gorgeously em- 
broidered jackets of the Turkish ofl&cers and employes, the 
high-pointed hats and long gabardines of the Jews, the 
bright sashes and turbans of the Moslem gentlemen, and 
the light braided suits and red tarbouches of the Christian 
Arabs ; but the women, who kept in groups quite apart 
firom the men, sitting under the olive-trees or strolling into 
the valley below, were all shrouded in sheets, and whether 
Jewish, Christian, or Moslem, the only variety in their 
dress depended on the colour of the veil or masky and the 
form or colour of the shoes; some of them being of 
European fashion, while others were yellow or red and 
pointed. The black slaves were shoeless, and thus could 
be distinguished from their mistresses. A few of the ladies 
carried gay parasols embroided with spangles. 

By starlight we wandered to the high ground behind the 
Talibeyeh ; we could see watch fires on many of the hills 
around and on the Bethlehem plain, and heard in the 
stiU night air echoes of the clear shrill voices of far-off 
shepherds, who were " watching their flocks by nighty' and 
giving signals perhaps to their fellow watchers. 

On Tuesday, 10th, I again rode into town, walked down 
Christian Street and through the chief bazaars, now de- 
scending a dirty crooked street of stairs, now passing under 
narrow archways, dark and dusty, and through wide lofty 
arcades or bazaars, where the butchers' market, the bread, 
fruit, grain, and leather markets were respectively held. 

The shopkeepers were crying to the passers-by, "Ho, 
every one that hath monkey let him come and buy !" " Ho, 
such a one, come and buy !'* But some of them seemed 
to be more disinterested, and -one of the fruiterers, offering 
me preserves and fruit, said, " lady, take of our fruit 
without money and without price ; it is yours, take all 
that you wiU," and he would gladly have laden our kawass 
with the good things of his store, and then have claimed 
double their value. In a street leading to one of the 



32 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

bazaars, a number of peasant women and girls from Bethany 
and Siloam were selling vegetables and fruit. They did 
not wear the white shroud of the townspeople ; their dresses 
were chiefly of indigo-dyed linen, and made like long shirts, 
girdled with red shawls or sashes ; their heads were covered 
with coloured handkerchiefs or shawls, or white towels, so 
arranged as to partially conceal their faces, which were very 
dark and tattoed with blue stars and dots on the forehead 
and round the lips ; their dark eyes looked larger and 
darker on account of the kohl on the eyelids, and the black 
pigment on the eyebrows. They wore coloured glass brace- 
lets (made at Hebron), silver anklets, and some of them 
had necklaces of coins and silver rings. A very striking- 
looking young Siloam girl said to me, taking hold of my 
dress, " Taste of the fruit of our gardens and our vineyards, 
sister !" My brother, by accident in passing a shrouded 
yellow-booted figure in the •crowded street, slightly dis- 
arranged the folds of her izzar, and he said, " Your pardon, 
Ya Sitti (" my ladyTy She answered, " Say not * Ya 
Sittl ' to me ; say it rather to the queen of heaven." We 
met a large number of people afflicted with ophthalmia, 
and partial or entire loss of sight ; but deformed persons 
are comparatively rare in Palestine. 

In one of the most bustling bazaars we saw a tall gaunt 
Jew gesticulating in the midst of a crowd. He was 
almost naked, for he only wore a ragged strip of sackcloth 
round his loins, he carried in one hand a long stout staff, 
and in the other a large stone, his vehement exclamations, 
excited maimer, and fiery eyes reminded me of the descrip- 
tions of the prophets, as well as of the possessed of demons 
in days of old. His hair was long <ind wild, and his beard 
hung to his waist. 

He cried out in Arabic, " The city shall be made deso- 
late, fire shall consume it, because of its wickedness," &c. 
&c. and, notwithstanding his violent maledictions, and the 
weapons he carried, the people around did not interfere 
with him or molest him, except that a few boys mockingly 
called to him, saying, '' Prophesy now^ oh Jew;'* but he 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 33 

answered them only with an angry scowL He was evi- 
dently mad (or majnun, as the Arabs say), and my 
brother told me that he had for years been a tolerated 
wanderer in the bazaars, and wherever he went, an idle 
crowd followed him ; he lived on charity. The Orientals 
invariably treat with kindness and consideration those who 
are thus afflicted, believing them to be under the espe- 
cial protection of God ; it is imagined that they have 
a greater knowledge of spiritual things in proportion to 
their want of it concerning things of this life : in fact, in 
the East, a ''madman'* and a ''prophet" are almost syno- 
nomous terms. 

The poor fellow recognised my brother (who had some- 
times uselessly given him clothing), and he blessed us 
rather equivocally as we passed on ; we entered the quiet, 
picturesque, but narrow street, in which the Prussian 
Consul resides; pointed arches, with groined and fretted 
roofs, cross it here and there, and fine buttresses support 
some of the houses, which are built of large, well-hewn, 
bevelled stones, put together with lead instead of mortar ; 
the deep arched entrances, canopied with dropping fret- 
work, are good examples of the Moresque style; low 
stone divans, or benches, just within the portals, were 
occupied by stately-looking armed servants, or black slaves. 
There are many alabaster tablets and friezes let into the 
walls, over doors, or under oriel windows, or in arched 
recesses, on which Arabic inscriptions and monograms are 
elaborately carved in slight relief, and in some cases 
illuminated in red, blue, and gold; the graceful Ori- 
ental characters, with their flowing lines, are well adapted 
•for this sort of omaYnentation, and are very extensively 
used in the exterior as well as interior decorations of 
Moresque buildings. Ancient carved capitals, near to the 
doorways, served as stepping-stones ; and in many places 
horses were haltered to large perforated blocks, which pro- 
jected from the walls. 

We made our way along the Via Dolorosa, pausing, 
sometimes, to allow a long line of donkeys, laden with, 

D 



34 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

stones or brushwood, to jog by, enveloped in a cloud of 
dust ; or a string of unwieldy camels, bearing melons to 
the market We met the colonel of the Turkish cavalry, 
and several officers ; they kindly invited me to mount the 
rude steps leading to a broad and elevated terrace of the 
Seraglio, or Pasha's Palace. From this central and lofty 
spot, I first gained a general idea of the city, and the sur- 
rounding hills. The building on which I stood was partly 
formed by the north wall of the Haram, or Great Mosque 
enclosure; and thus, looking towards the south, I over- 
looked its entire area, which is almost equal in extent to 
one-quarter of the whole city. In its centre the well- 
known Kubbet-es-Sukhrah, or " Dome of the Eock," stands ; 
the beautiful cupola, resting on a circular base, crowns a 
wide-spreading octagonal building, each side of which is 
ornamented with six lofty arches, and the lower part is 
faced with bright enamelled tiles of many tints. This 
building is on a large square platform, raised considerably 
above the other parts of the inclosure, and is approached 
from six points by broad flights of steps, which lead to 
light and graceful entrances, divided by three or four 
elaborately carved columns and pointed arches. There are 
many little praying niches and stone canopies, supported 
on columns, and alabaster pulpits on the platform, as well 
as in the grass-grown enclosure below, where the white 
stone "walls and domes are relieved by the dark beauty of 
the cypress and the silvery shade of oKves, and some few 
shrubs in flower. A beautiful grove of trees leads to the 
Mosque-el-Aksa, which is in the southern part of the area, 
where its long and gabled roof, large dome, and Saracenic 
fia9ade are conspicuous.. Groups of white-turbaned Mos- 
lems sitting in the tree-shade, solitary devotees at the 
little shrines or niches, and the slow pacing of Turkish 
sentries or black slave guardians of the Holy Place, gave 
some animation to the otherwise pictum-like stillness of 
the scene. 

The contrast is very great between this bright spot on 
Mount Moriah and the other part of the city, which is 



DOMESTIC UFE IK PALESTINE. 35 

traversed by a valley and covered with irregular masses of 
white-domed and terraced buildings, relieved here and 
there by a tree, a church, or a minaret. The extreme 
southern quarter is the most desolate, and is inhabited by 
the Jews. The south-west portion is chiefly thronged by 
Armenians, where their convent stands, white and con- 
spicuous, and marks their quarter distinctly. The north- 
west quarter (the highest) is more frequented by Franks ; 
and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Latin convent, 
the Protestant church, and various consulates, proclaim 
it. The north-east is the Moslem quarter. The patches 
of open land within the city are, in some places, used as 
drying-groimds for indigo-dyed linen; while others have 
become public dust-heaps or dunghills. I could trace the 
battlemented waUs of the city, now following the down- 
ward sweep into the valley, and then rising in an irregular 
line to crown the heights of Zion. 

After we had lingered there for some time, fascinated 
by the scenes around, the nulitary governor led us to 
a divan, where we took coffee and sherbet. He excused 
himself for not taking refreshment with us, for it was 
Eamadan, the month in which Moslems fast from sunrise 
to sunset daily. 

We then called on several European families, — ^English, 
German, Greek, Eussian, &c. The vaulted stone chambers 
in which we were generally received were cool and plea- 
sant even at midday, and so furnished as to combine 
Oriental and Western luxuries. In the deep arched re- 
cesses and broad window-seats soft cushions were arranged 
on divans, and loose muslin drapery floated from the open 
windows, fanning the air; glowing^ Turkey carpets and 
I^ptian matting covered the stone floors ; while the centre 
table and its newspapers, the bookcases, the pictures, 
the pianos, and little works of art or nicknacks, pro- 
claimed that Europeans had made homes there; while 
on the terraces, and under the columned corridors, English 
flowers appeared among the native oleanders and jasmines, 

aded by vine-covered trellises. But in these Europeanized 

d2 



36 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

houses, European servants are very rare; and almost every- 
where I saw that Abyssinian men-servants are sought in 
preference to natives, for they are intelligent, attentive, 
and faithful; and the hardy, but somewhat self-willed, 
Bethlehem women are in great request as house-servants, 
for they are clean and comparatively careful I perceived 
that the training and management of a staff of Oriental 
attendants is one of the chief difficulties that European 
ladies have to contend with. 

July 15th was a very sultry day : we all retired early 
to our tents, fatigued with the heat. About midnight, I 
was aroused by the violent movement of my light tent 
bedstead, and a loud murmuring noise. My first thought 
was that an earthquake was disturbing the hiUs ; then I 
fancied that some wild beast was near; and, lastly, I came 
to the conclusion (which proved to be the right one) that 
my tent was in danger of being carried away by a whirl- 
wind : it had blown open in two places, and its yielding 
walls beat against the light framework of my bedstead. 
The noise of the flapping canvas, the tightening and strain- 
ing of the tent ropes, the rustling and snapping of the 
young trees, and the continuous rocking, kept me awake 
for a long while. I quite expected to be left shelterless, for 
I was on the highest part of the grounds. 

On the morning of July 16th, there was a general fixing 
and repairing of tents, and a search for hammers and tent- 
pegs ; for all the canvas dwellings had been more or less 
disturbed by the wild wind of the preceding night. At 
sunrise, the air was soft and warm, but clouds were being 
driven from the north in large masses, burnished by the 
morning sun. A south-west wind had driven those clouds 
from Egypt a day or two before ; and now, unbroken, they 
were chased back again to their source, the mighty Nile. 
We wandered through the grounds, replanting the uprooted 
trees, and supporting the fallen ones ; for none had escaped 
injury. Before breakfast, I rode with my brother to the 
Convent of the Cross, in the lonely vaUey to which it gives 
a name. The convent has been lately very thoroughly 



DOMESTIC LIFE m PALESTINE. 37 

restored by the Greeks, tb whom it now belongs ; and an 
excellent college has been established there for about forty 
or fifty students. It was formerly the property of the 
Georgians, and was founded by them in the fifth century, 
on the very spot where grew the tree which furnished the 
wood of the cross. This is, at least, the tradition which 
our monkish attendant gravely told as he led us into 
the church, a fine building, about seventy feet long, with a 
groined roof supported by four massive piers. The walls 
are covered with curious frescoes ; and the altar-screen 
contains a pictorial history of the sacred tree, from the 
time it was planted by Abraham and Lot, tiU it was hewn 
down and formed into a cross. As sculpture is strictly 
forbidden in the Georgian and Greek churches, all the 
decorations depend on colour ; but in some of the pictures 
there was a compromise, the figures being cut out in thin 
wood, and moimted on appropriate backgrounds. The 
nimbus, in almost every instance, is formed of pure gold, 
and stones and jewels are introduced in the adornment of 
the dresses. 

In the centre of the church is a large square pavement 
of mosaic, the finest I met with in Palestine ; quaint birds, 
curious figures, and Christian sjnnbols are represented, 
and in the lozenge-shaped spaces left by the intersecting 
lines of the frame-work of these devices, most beautiful 
designs are introduced The tesserae of which this pave- 
ment is composed are about three-quarters of an inch 
square, and are black, white, red, blue, and yeUow. We 
hastened back to breakfast ; the blue sky was flecked with 
fleecy clouds fastly moving, and the mountains round us 
were chequered with their shadows : one moment a hill 
was crowned with sunlight, the next it was aU in shade. 
The flocks of goats browsing on the hillsides, and peasant 
women making their way to the city, laden with vege- 
tables, bowls of milk, and baskets of fowls, animated 
the landscape. L. and the children returned with me to 
the convent, where I spent the whole day, drawing de- 
lightedly some of the curious mosaic pictures, &c. (I will 



38 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

refer those who take an interest in early Christian art to 
No. 878 of the Builder y published Dec. 3, 1859, in which 
some examples of these are given from my sketch-book.) 
Considering that these buildings were deserted and left in 
ruins for two or three centuries, it is surprising that so 
much of the ancient work remains in good preservation. 
We were led to a cavern under the altar, ani the identical 
spot where the sacred tree grew was pointed out to us in a 
damp and dark recess. We saw some workmen destroying 
an ancient MS. written on parchment; they were using 
fragments of it to make bags for their dry powdered 
colours, and willingly gave me a few sheets. The garden 
terrace of the convent is roofed with treUis-work covered 
with vines, and the rich fruit hung above us in heavy 
clusters. We strolled home on foot, gathering bright 
blue borage, wild pinks, and geraniums. A red cloudy 
sunset was followed by a calm moonlight night, only 
disturbed by prowling jackals, noisy hyaenas, and wild 
dogs without, and buzzing mosquitoes within. 

In the morning I found the tent curtains saturated with 
dew, and the garments which had been hanging there 
during the night were too damp to be put on with safety. 



CHAPTEE IIL 



IN" the meantime all my leisure hours were spent in 
studying Arabic. The little ones at the Talibeyeh 
were never tired of adding to my vocabulary, which I 
practically applied whenever an opportunity arose, such as 
during the visits of Arab guests or work-people, and in my 
daily intercourse with the native attendants, whose voices 
rapidly grew familiar to me. Some of the elder women- 
servants were very demonstrative and affectionate, and 
often when I uttered a request or gave directions in some 
newly-acquired words, they would reward me (?) or testify 
their delight by clasping me in their arms and kissing me. 
I had been accustomed to hear Arabic spoken for d year or 
more, so the sounds were not strange to me. 

On the 17th of July, after a quiet day of study, I started 
with my brother for Beit Lahm, i,e. Bethlehem, the sim was 
going down, and purple shadows were swiftly rising in the 
eastern sky. We made our way over a rocky, pathless slope, 
and a few fields of sesame, till we reached the broad level 
road which traverses the fertile plain of Eephaim, where the 
Philistines were routed by David. This road is about a 
mile in length, and is the only place remaining in the neigh- 
bourhood of Jerusalem fit for a carriage drive, though in 
many spots traces may be seen of ancient roads, telling of 
the time when " King Solomon had four thousand stalls 
for horsemen and chariots, and twelve thousand horsemen, 
which he bestowed in the chariot cities and at Jerusalem." 

We passed over the plain quickly, the kawass galloping 
before us, and soon came to a spot where no carriage could 



40 DOMESTIC LIFE m PALESTINE. 

have served us ; our horses stumbled over smooth slabs of 
rock and loose stones, as we rose on to the roimded and 
terraced hill on which stands the Convent of Mar Elias, or 
Elijah, a massive building of grey masonry, in the midst of 
olive groves and flourishing plantations. A moon of three 
days old and her attendant star shone in the clear blue sky, 
just above the silvered tree-tops. We paused on the hill 
to rest our panting horses, and to look around us. South- 
ward we could see the picturesque town of Bethlehem, 
white and gleaming; between the hills to the east we 
caught glimpses of the Dead Sea, and the Moab moun- 
tains beyond ; turning to the north, we saw, brightened by 
the moonlight, the southern wall of Jerusalem, and the 
buildings on the brow of Mount Zion ; and on the west 
an olive grove bounded the view. The kawass brought me 
some water, in a curious little two-handled cup of red 
pottery, from the stone reservoir provided for travellers by 
the good monks of Mar Elias. 

We then descended abruptly into a valley, by a declivity 
which would have terrified me a week or two before, but I 
had become accustomed to rough riding on the rude hills 
round about Jerusalem. We reascended, and swept round 
hillsides covered with well-kept terraces of fig and olive- 
trees; the rude parapets supporting the rich earth were 
garnished with hanging creepers and luxuriant foliage, 
which threw dark but delicate shadows on the white lime- 
stone. Here and there we saw rows of quaint-looking 
ravens, perched on the rock ledges tier above tier, some of 
them silent and motionless, others nodding their heads 
together as if in consultation. A pleasant bridle-path 
half way up the western boundary of a broad valley, led 
us towards the white walls and flat-roofed houses of 
Bethlehem. We passed under a pointed archway, and 
between low, scattered buildings, tUl we entered a high- 
walled gloomy street. Looking down on our left, we caught 
glimpses through the open doors, of family groups, in lamp- 
lit rooms built a few steps below the level of the road ; 
cheerful-looking women and children, and stem-browed 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 41 

men, strained their eyes, looking oufc of the light into the 
darkness, to try to see us as we passed, the clattering of 
our horses' feet over the stones having broken the stillness 
of the place. We came again to an open terrace, and could 
see the hiUside above and below dotted with houses on 
the flat roofs of which many families were already sleeping ; 
from the unglazed windows flickering lights were shining ; 
clusters of trees grow here and there throughout the town ; 
and the Church of the Nativity, surrounded by convent 
buildings, rises like some baronial castle gloomily and 
grandly on the steepest side of the hill. 

We passed under a deep arched way, which led us into 
the Convent Court, where we alighted, and were kindly 
welcomed by the Latin recluses, who were expecting us. 
The Spanish consul of Jerusalem and his wife were there ; 
with them and the Superior, and a few well-educated 
Spanish and Italian monks, we passed the evening plea- 
santly in the divanned reception-room ; after an excellent 
supper we were shown to our several apartments. The 
Superior led me to a large, vaulted, gloomy chamber, in 
which I felt quite lost, when the heavy door closed upon 
me and I was alone. There were eight closely curtained 
iron bedsteads in the room, and I peeped rather timidly into 
every one. A small lamp of red clay, like a deep saucer, 
with a lip on one side shaped to support the lighted wick, 
stood in a little niche, but its feeble red glow was almost 
lost in a stream of moonlight which fell from the grated, 
unglazed window above the door, glancing on the walls and 
the white curtains, and throwing a patch of chequered light 
on the stone floor. I was a martyr to mosquitoes that 
night, and as soon as daylight appeared through the grated 
window, I rose, and wandered about the corridors, meeting 
the monks on their way to morning prayer, and witnessing 
the distribution of bread to the poor convent pensioners 
who crowded to the gates ; the women carried away their 
provisions in the comers of their linen veils, but the men 
and boys put their loaves of bread in the bosom of their 
open shirts, their girdles supporting the burden. 



42 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

On meeting my brother, we went, guided by one of the 
Latin monks, to the Church of the Nativity, built by the 
Empress Helena, in A.D. 327. It is said to be the oldest 
monument of Christian architecture in the world. The 
shafts of the forty columns which support the fine archi- 
trave and decaying roof are each of a single piece of marble 
more than two feet in diameter, about sixteen feet in 
height, and surmounted by elaborately carved capitals. 
These may have formed a part of some more ancient 
building; it has been suggested that they were brought 
from the ruins of the Temple at Jerusalem. The upper 
part of these columns are frescoed with Greek and Byzan- 
tine figures of saints and martyrs, while lower dowJ axe 
some curious sketches and monograms by crusaders perhaps, 
or pUgrims of the middle ages. Above the columns and on 
the walls there are remains of ancient mosaic pictures of 
glass, and stone, and metal I could make out groups of 
figures, views of cities, strange devices, and ornamental 
borders. They had been recently discovered under plaster- 
work, and were being ruthlessly scraped away, when an 
English traveller put a stop to the destruction, by pointing 
out to the Superior the value and interest of these relics. 

Here the Greeks, Latins, and Armenians have their 
several shrines and services, and they sometimes have very 
fierce conflicts about them. We went down into the Grotto 
of the Nativity (so well known through dioramic and other 
pictures), with its silver lamps, its fumes of incense, silken 
tapestries, and gilded saints. On the floor in front of the 
altar a star marks the spot said by tradition to show the 
very place where Christ was bom ; but I was not moved 
with mysterious awe ; it was not here that I realized the 
scene in the manger ; and surrounded as I was by priests 
in their gorgeous robes, and pictures, and treasures, from 
France, Italy, Spain, and Greece, I could scarcely even 
believe that I was in Bethlehem. We visited the convent 
schools ; in one room fourteen handsome, intelligent-looking 
Bethlehem boys were learning Italian; they showed us 
their exercises and translations, and sang a Latin hymn to 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 43 

the Virgin, giving a peculiarly Oriental twang to the last 
sounds of every line. Another schoolroom which we en- 
tered was crowded with younger boys, learning to read 
and write Arabic, but they were dirty, disorderly, and 
noisy, and we did not linger there. 

After takiDg breakfast with the Latin Superior (who re- 
lated to us stories of recent miracles wrought in the sacred 
grotto, with earnestness and simplicity, as if he thoroughly 
believed what he said, and wished us to benefit by it), we 
hastened away, and walked through the steep streets and 
passages, and among the scattered buildings of the town ; 
it is almost entirely peopled by Christian Arabs, of the 
Latin, Greek, and Armenian Churches, and they number 
altogether about three thousand two hundred* They cul- 
tivate their fields and terraced gardens with care, and send 
large supplies of vegetables and fruit to Jerusalem every 
day; but one of the principal occupations of the Beth- 
lehemites, is the carving of various articles in mother-of- 
pearl and olive-wood We inquired for a young man, an 
orphan, whom my brother knew to be one of the most 
sldlful carvers in the town. 

The neighbours who guided us to his door said, " Be glad, 
and enter in with joy, for this is to-day a house of rejoicing." 
We found the carver at his work, seated on the floor, he 
rose up with evident delight to receive my brother, who 
had formerly protected him, and helped to establish him 
in business. He said, "Welcome, oh, my master! thank 
Grod that he has led you back to this land, to see the 



* There was formerly a Mohammedan quarter in Bethlehem, but after 
the insurrection of the people in 1834 it was destroyed, the houseless 
Moslems fled and distributed themselves over the neighbouring country, 
some settled in Moslem villages, and others took to tent life and have 
ever since wandered about, like the Bedouins, except that they retain 
their custom of observing religious forms and ceremonies, fasts and feasti^ 
more strictlythan nomadic tribes usually do ; and during the month of 
Ramadan, so careful are they to keep it punctually, that they select a spot 
for their encampment within sight of Jerusalem, that they may see the flash 
of the gun fired from the citadel at sunset, to announce the moment when 
Moslems m^y break their fast. 



44 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

fruit of your goodness, the work of your hand ; you have 
built up my house, you have made me to rejoice, you have 
given me a son ! " 

My brother replied, laughingly, "You speak in riddles 
darkly, make your words plain, oh, my friend.'* The carver 
took up a handful of tools, saying, " Oh, my protector, you 
gave me these tools, — ^these tools brought me gold, — ^the gold 
brought me a wife, and my wife brought me a son, on the 
night of the new moon!" (He had once been in my 
brother's service, and during that time showed decided 
taste for carving, which my brother encouraged by giving 
him a little instruction in the art, and some English tools). 
Eound the room, and hanging on the white-washed waUs, 
were a number of smaU inlaid mother-of-pearl table-tops, 
about half a yard square, intended for the stands or stools, 
on which coffee and preserves are placed in Oriental esta- 
bUshments ; carved rosaries, crucifixes, cups, and crosses, 
of olive-wood, decorated the place; and the carver showed 
us, with especial pride, some large flat shells, on which 
he had sculptured pictures of sacred subjects and holy 
places; and some beads carved in bitumen, from the shores 
of the Dead SeiSL During the past Easter he had reaped a 
goodly harvest, for the pilgrims eagerly buy these objects, 
and, when they are blessed by the priests, preserve them as 
relics. The English travellers, too, had bought a great 
number of paper knives, bracelets, &c., made at my brother's 
suggestion, — ^the original sketches for which, the carver had 
preserved with loving care, and with new expressions of 
gratitude he showed them to me saying, "Peace be on his 
hands." While speaking, he was especially bright and 
intelligent-looking, his long dark blue and red striped 
coat, his crimson girdle, and red and yellow shawl head- 
dress, twisted into turban-form, became him well ; he in- 
vited me to see his wife and child ; I delightedly rose and 
followed him across a little square courtyard, partly sheltered 
by matting, supported by planks and tree branches, and 
partly by a vine, which travelled over a rude trellis work ; 
in one comer of this court, were a large number of oyster- 



DOMESnO LIFE IN PALESTINE. 45 

shells (from the Eed Sea), some of them a quarter of a 
yard in diameter ; lumps of bitumen, from the wilderness 
of 'Ain Jidy; and pieces of rock, from Jerusalem, of red 
and yellow tints (the carver pointed these out to me 
as his stock of raw material) ; a pile of fine melons, and a 
row of water jars, stood on one side, while a bleating 
soimd drew my attention to the other, where a fatted lamb 
stood munching mulberry-leaves. Into this central court 
the four rooms of the house opened ; but as it is built on a 
hillside, the shop floor is a step or two below the level of 
the court, while the room opposite to it is raised consider- 
ably. We mounted a few steps, and my host left me at the 
open door of this upper chamber, within which, seated on 
a mat, was a pretty-looking woman, with a round, childish, 
cheerful face ; perfectly unembarrassed by my unexpected 
appearance ; she rose, and after placing her hand on her 
breast, and then carrying it to her forehead, she said, " Be 
welcome, and be pleased to rest here." This was the 
carver^s wife; and an elder woman, whom I afterwards 
found to be her mother, placed some pillows for me on a 
small carpet, and then took a little swaddled figure from a 
curtained rocking cradle of red painted wood ; she placed 
it on the skirts of my dress, saying, *' Behold the gift of 
God." I took the little creature in my arms, his body was 
stiff and unyielding, so tightly was it swathed with white 
and purple linen ; his hands and feet were quite confined, 
and his head was bound with a small soft red shawl, which 
passed under his chin and across his forehead in small 
folds, to this a mouldering relic of St. Joseph, in a crystal 
case, was attached. His mother wore a long blue linen 
shirt, rather scanty, and opening in front to the waist, 
a straight short pelisse or jacket, of crimson and white 
striped silk, and a shawl girdle ; a long thick white linen 
veil hung over her head and shoulders, and partly con- 
cealed her stiff tarbouche or cap, which was ornamented 
with a row of small gold coins, and a few bunches of ever- 
lasting flowers. The elder woman wore a heavy shirt or 
smock of blue linen, the wide hanging open sleeves of which 



46 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

exposed a tattooed and braceleted arm. Her long white 
linen veil fell from her head over her shoulders, in graceful 
folds to her feet, which were naked. In such a veil as this, 
Euth, the young Moabitish widow, who three thousand years 
ago gleaned in the fertile fields of the broad valley below, 
may have carried away the six measures of barley, which her 
kinsman, Boaz, the then mighty man of wealth of Beth- 
lehem- Judah, had graciously given to her, saying, " Bring 
the veil that thou hast upon thee, and hold it; and when site 
held it, he measured six measures of barley ^ and laid it on 
her, and she went into the city'* — ^Euth iii. 15. 

I asked the young mother her name; she answered, 
" Miriam is my name ; " but her mother said, " Not so, she 
is no longer Miriam, but *Um Yousef * (mother of Joseph), 
for a son is bom unto her, whose name is Joseph." 

It is the universal custom in the East, for a mother to 
take the name of her first-bom son, with the prefix of '* Um " 
Mother, such as Um Elias, Mother of Elias ; or Um Elia, 
Mother of Eli, (whence perhaps came such names as -Ewma, 
Emilj, and J.7»elia,) and on the same principle the father's 
name is changed as soon as he has a son, whose name he 
adopts, with the prefix of "-4J«a" (Father) ; and it is a 
source of great distress and disappointment to parents if 
they are, for want of a son, obliged to retain their respective 
names. 

The little mummy-like figure in my arms began to show 
signs of life, by uttering a feeble sound, in the universal 
language of babyhood ; the mother took it from me, and 
before holding it to her bosom, she reverently kissed a small 
silken bag, embroidered with gold, and then pressed it to 
her forehead. In answer to my look of inquiry, she ex- 
plained, partly by words, and partly by signs, that the little 
bag, which hung from her neck, contained a piece of crumb- 
ling white stone, from a grotto near to Bethlehem, sanctified 
by the milk of the Blessed Virgin, which once overflowed 
there, and mothers eagerly procure it, to place in their 
bosoms as a charm. 

The room in which we sat was very simply furnished ; it 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 47 

was nearly square, — ^the floor was of stone, and the walld 
were whitewashed ; on a broad high shelf running round 
three sides of it, many articles of native crockery and 
earthenware, drinking-cups, jars, lamps, &c. were ranged. 
A mat of reeds, a carpet about as large as a hearth-rug, 
and several pillows or cushions were on the floor ; a large 
red box, with brass hinges and ornaments, served as the 
wardrobe of the family; the red cradle, a large metal basin 
and ewer, and a few small coffee-cups, on a low stool or 
stand, of inlaid mother-of-pearl and dark wood, garnished 
the room ; in a deep arched recess, opposite to the door, a 
number of mattresses and wadded quilts were neatly piled 
up; for in genuine Arab houses no bedsteads are used, And 
consequently no rooms are set apart expressly for bedrooms ; 
mattresses are spread anywhere, in the various rooms and 
courts, or on the terraces, according to the season, or to the 
convenience of the moment ; and the beds and bedding are 
rolled up and put away during the day, in recesses made 
for them. Thus, with a pretty good stock of mattresses 
and lehaffs, a large number of guests may be entertained 
any night at a moment's notice. The room was well venti- 
lated by two large square openings, near the ceiling, oppo- 
site to each other, one being just over the door, and the 
other over the recess for the mattresses.* I took a cup of 

* This sort of bed could easily have been carried away by the sick man 
of Capernaum, to whom Christ said, (as recorded in the second chapter of 
Hark), "Arise, a/nd take v/p thy bed cmd go thy way into thine house /' and if 
the houses of Capernaum were btdlt like most of the houses of the present 
day in the towns of Palestine, the uncovering of the roof referred to in the 
fourth verse of the same chapter, admits of an easy explanation. The inner 
coart of the house is usuaUy more -spacious than any of the surrounding 
rooms, and often there are platforms or benches of stone on each side, 
spread with carpets and cushions, used as divans during the day and 
as deeping places at night. To such a court Christ may have retreated 
when the crowd increased; we may imagine him there, with the 
wondering people round him, and the crafty and scornful scribes seated 
near on the divan ; all sheltered from the hot sun by some kind of matting 
or canvas, supported on a trellis work of tree-branches and planks, more or 
less secure. When the sick man was carried by his friends to the house 
where Christ was preaching, " they could not come nigh to him for the 
press," 80 they very naturally went on to the ten*ace or house-top, and 



48 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

coffee and some sugar-plums, and then said " Good bye," or 
rather " God be with you," to Miriam ; the elder woman 
led me back across the court, pointing to a kitchen on 
one side, and to the well-filled store-room on the other ; 
she drew her long white veil across the lower part of her 
face, as we entered the workshop ; she kissed my brother's 
hands, and then served us with coffee and preserves. Our 
servants now arrived with the horses, and we left the work- 
shop of the Bethlehem carver; his parting words, "The 
peace of God be with you, oh, my protector;" and the 
answer which my brother gave, " God's blessing be upon 
you and upon your house," reminded me of the salutations 
exchanged by Boaz and the reapers, long ago, in one of the 
fields at the foot of the hill we were descending, where we 
could see oxen treading out the corn on the numerous 
threshing floors. We approached the particular spot which 
local tradition connects with the names of Euth and Boaz ; 
but it was enough for me that they had met somewhere 
in that broad and fertile vaUey, and that the town of 
Bethlehem (though changed), was the very town in which 
Euth rejoiced over her first-born son ; where the sorrows 
of Naomi were turned into joy, and " the women, her neigh- 
bours, rejoiced with her." We stood in the midst of little 
groups of men, women, and children ; some were attend- 
ing to the mules and oxen on the threshing floor ; others 
were gleaning and weeding in the neighbouring fields ; and 
the noisiest and most active were busy loading some kneeling 
camels with sacks of grain ; assisted by the contemplation 
of this busy scene, and the remembrance of the incidents 
of the morning, I could fully realize the beautiful story of 
Euth. We crossed a field of Indian com, to pause for a 
moment under the shade of the clump of trees, said to mark 



" uncovered the roof" of the court, that is, they removed the matting which 
sheltered it, and then they " broke up " the trellis work and let down the 
bed whereon the sick of the palsy lay, if an ordinary house-top had been 
broken up, the wooden beams, and the masses of earth and stone of which 
it is composed would in falling haye endangered the lives of those below. — 
M. E. B. 



DOBfESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 49 

the spot where the shepherds were keeping watch over 
their flocks by night, when the " good tidings " were pro- 
ckdmed. The place is now called the " Shepherds' Garden/' 
and is in the keeping of the Monks of Bethlehem. We rose 
on to the hillside again^ and peeped into the Milk Grotto, 
in which tradition says that Mary rested on the eve of her 
flight into Egypt. It is a cave in a very white limestone 
rock, and has been undergoing excavation for centuries, on 
account of the before-mentioned supposed virtue of the 
stone. Fragments of it are treasured in all parts of Syria, 
and in many countries of Europe. I have often seen it 
used successfully ; it seems to me, that the mere fact of 
not being provided with this relic will, in nervous subjects, 
occasion a deficiency of milk, and in such cases herbs and 
other medicines, wise women and doctors, are resorted to 
in vain ; but directly a portion of this crumbling stone can 
be procured, through the hands of a priest, tranquillity is 
restored, and favourable results follow. In this way many 
so-called miracles may be accoimted for. 

We rode on southwards towards Urt&s, passing over 
terraced hills, where the vines and olives and fig-trees 
grew luxuriantly, and little white stone watch-towers 
peered out here and there in commanding positions, from 
the midst of the thick foliage ; while near to the winding 
bridle-path we saw now and then a cottage or hut made 
of rough unhewn stones, and roofed with tree-branches, 
standing in a garden of cucumbers, or tomatoes, or a choice 
vineyard. One of these rude dwellings was being clumsily 
repaired by a group of boys who had been gathering stones 
and sticks for the purpose, and were shouting menily 
over their work. From another of these little huts there 
came forth, as if by magic (for it did not look capable of 
containing them), five young Bethlehem girls; three of 
them were very pretty brilliant brunettes, the others rather 
fair; all looked strong and hearty, with rich colour and 
large clear eyes. They advanced half-shyly, haK-daringly, 
to peep at us as we passed. Their simply-made loose purple 
linen dresses girdled below the waist negligently; their 

E 



50 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINK 

long wide sleeves, revealing bronzeJ and braceleted anns ; 
their coarse white linen veils thrown back from their fore- 
heads and hanging over their shoulders, and their naked feet, 
were in perfect harmony with the pastoral scenes around. 

I was very thirsty, so I called to one of them, saying, 
" Bring water, my sister !" Immediately a red and black 
two-handled porous earthenware vase of antique form was 
handed to me, and when I had drank of the cool, taste- 
less water it contained, the girls around said, " May God 
make it refreshing to you, lady!" and, prompted by 
my brother, I gave the customary answer, " God preserve 
you!" 

We inquired whence came the delicious water, and they 
answered, " From the well over against the town ;" so per- 
haps we had tasted of the very water which David sighed 
for when he said, " Oh 1 that one would give me of the 
water of the well at Bethlehem> that is at the gate." We 
gave the girls a backsheesh, and they gave us their bless- 
ings as we rode away. 

The men and boys whom we met, or saw working in 
the orchards above, or the plains below, wore nothing but 
short coarse white shirts, girdled with broad red leather 
belts, ornamented with stitching and embroidery. Their 
heads were protected and adorned with bright red and 
yellow striped shawls, tastefully bound round their tas- 
seled tarbouches, the crowns of which were bleached by 
the sun. A few of them wore red, pointed, clumsy-looking, 
but picturesque boots. Nature, however, provides admirably 
for the shoeless, and famishes a hardy and ever-growing 
homy case, which is insensible to the sharpness of stones 
and thorns, and to the roughness of tl^e stubble-field. 

In the valley below, we saw broad fields of green millet 
and broom-corn (a strong grass about five or six feet in 
height, of which brooms are made), but the wheat and 
barley was all cut, and mules and oxen were busy on the 
threshing floors. 

On the eastern side of this valley the hiUs were un- 
cultivated, and on the neglected terraces wild fig-trees, 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 51 

evergreen oaks, and thorns grew ; in the breaks between 
these hills we had occasional glimpses of the Dead Sea, 
calm and blue and bright in the sunshine, and the long 
range of Moab beyond ; its channeled and furrowed hills 
bounded the view, and met the sky in an almost level line. 

The sun was very powerful, for it was the fifth hour 
(between ten and eleven o'clock) ; we protected our heads 
from sunstroke by winding round our hats long strips of 
muslin, after the fashion of turbans, which are the most 
suitable head-dresses for hot countries. 

We left aU traces of cultivated land presently, and came 
to hills which were clothed with thorns and thistles, wild 
thyme and sage, except where the scanty soil had been 
washed away from the greyish blue slab-like rocks. 

As we descended into the valley of Urt§,s, by a pathless 
steep, we paused to watch a long line of camels, and a con- 
siderable body of Bedouins, who were entering it from a 
narrow wady just opposite. They were preceded by three 
stiu'dy-looking men mounted on spirited horses, and car- 
rying spears about twelve feet long, garnished with tufts of 
ostrich feathers. 

They were evidently on their way to seek some favour- 
able site for a summer encampment, for they were accom- 
panied by a large number of women and children, who 
rode in clumsy cradles or panniers on the foremost camels, 
while the rest were laden with black hair tents and bundles 
of tent poles, cooking utensils, water jars, mats, and sacks 
of provisions ; goats, sheep, and a few donkeys, brought up 
the rear, pausing only to drink at the little shallow pools 
of water which rested in natural and stony basins in the 
middle of the valley, bordered with fresh green grass and 
flowers. The tinkling of the camel bells, and the wild, 
plaintive, monotonous song of the women rang in our ears 
long after the primitive procession had passed out of our 
sight No doubt those wanderers pitched their tents, and 
made themselves at home by sunset, near to some stream 
or fountain of sweet water : their dusky dwellings up they 
quickly rear, and build a village in an hour's space. 

e2 



52 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINR 

When we reached the bottom of the valley, and had 
passed a bold projecting and cavemed rock which causes 
an abrupt turn in its course, I was startled with delight 
and surprise at the picture before us — ^the loveliest I had 
seen in the East. 

No wonder that Biblical topographists agree in calling 
Urt&s the site of the gardens of Solomon, and no wonder 
if Solomon selected this valley for his especial retreat, 
and made this part of it his pleasure ground. It may have 
been more magnificent in his time, when the now fallen 
and shattered columns supported stately buildings, and the 
terraces were paved with tiie now scattered tesserae ; but it 
could not have been more beautiful and refreshing even in 
those golden days,' for here the pomegranates still yield 
their pleasant fruit, the vine flourishes, the fig-trees put forth 
their green figs around the fouiitain of gardens, the well of 
living water. Vegetable marrows, cucumbers, melons, and 
tomatoes carpet the bed of the valley with their broad 
leaves and glossy fruits, and fields of lentils, beans, potatoes, 
millet, and patches of golden maize, blossoming tobacco 
and sesame in excellent order, proclaim the agricultural 
skill of the successor of Solomon ; while higher up in the 
valley is a splendid orchard, where peach, apple, pear, and 
plum-trees flourish side by side with the more common 
fruits of the country, watered by sparkling streams which 
intersect the gardens and orchards like silver threads. 

"We followed a narrow bridle-path, raised a little above 
the bed of the valley. This led us to a solitary stone house, 
built up against the abruptly rising hill on the right : here 
we dismounted, and were kindly welcomed by its occu- 
pants, Mr. MeshuUam and his family, the present culti- 
vators and shareholders of this favoured spot. (They are of 
Jewish birth, but have become Christians, and are under 
British protection.) We rested under an immense fig-tree, 
on a divan of rocks and stones, built round its massive 
trunk, and covered with carpets and cushions. Opposite 
to us was a wide arched portal, or lewan, the approach to 
the house ; a wooden locker, and two stone benches or 



DOMESTIC LIFE IH PALESTINE. 53 

raised seats, covered with mats, occupied its three sides; 
for it is used as a summer sitting-room. Above the rude 
door leading to the inner rooms were a number of badger- 
skins hanging to dry, and some foxes' tails and tusks of 
wild boars, trophies of the courage and skill of the young 
Meshullams. Bunches of Indian com, and some large 
dried gourds, of a golden tint and cup-like form, were sus- 
pended from the arched roof; with a few captured birds in 
cages, and a large lantern. 

The room within was just as simple; and we dined 
there with Mr. Meshullam and his family, and Mr. Henry 
Wentworth Monk, who for two years had lived there almost 
a hermit's life, his only constant companion a Greek Testa- 
ment, and his chief intercourse with the world the Times 
newspaper. He spent nearly all his time in the open air, 
entering the house only to sleep and to eat. (His life-like 
portrait, by Holman Hunt, appeared in the Eoyal Academy 
Exhibition in 1860.) 

Our hostess, Mrs. Meshullam, an Italian Jewess, told me 
she could only give us an Italian peasant's dinner, as she 
had not expected us that day ; but the savoury soup of lentils 
and other vegetables, the dishes of fried beans, the potato 
fritters, omelettes, and fruit, needed no apology. 

After dinner, Mr. MeshuUam's sons kindly led us up the 
rocky hillside to the ruins of Urt&s. Scattered blocks of 
stone, fallen columns, foundations of houses, and broken 
walls alone remain. A few wild Arabs of the T^iamari 
tribe haunt these ruins and the caverns in the limestone 
hais which rise behind them, attracted by the spring 
which gushes impetuously from a rock ovei^own with 
mosses and ferns, and overshadowed with fine trees. 
The water falls in a large body, splashing and bubbling, 
into a square reservoir, where a group of little Bedouins 
stood enjoying shower-baths; and a few men were 
bathing their feet and washing their hands, in preparation 
for prayer. 

From this basin the water escapes into a lower and 
larger reservoir, where a number of UrtS^s women and girls. 



54 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

were washing their white and purple Unen shirts, and their 
tattered veils, in primitive style, folding them, and placing 
them on smooth slabs, just under the surface of the water 
at the margin of the pool, and then beating them with flat 
stones, which they held in their hands. Little naked, 
bronzed children were luxuriating there, and wriggling 
about like tadpoles. The girls called to me to come down 
into the reservoir, to bathe my feet. The rough stone 
walls enclosing these pools were tapestried with ferns, 
cresses, delicate creepers, and liverwort. 

We followed the course of the stream, and, with it, 
descended into the valley between the low stone walls 
which inclose the plantations of olive, fig-trees, lemons, 
and pomegranates. We had to make our way cautiously, 
now on one side, and then on the other, of the rocky bed 
of the swiftly flowing stream. 

The pleasant sound of the rushing waters — the songs of 
the goldfinches — ^the sight of the blossoming and fruitful 
trees in the garden below, inclosed by steep hills, covered 
with aromatic herbs — the breezy air, laden with the helio- 
trope-like scent of the fig-trees, and tasting of the wild 
flowers and herbs around — delighted us. King Solomon 
could scarcely have enjoyed such scenes more completely, 
when he, long ago, went into the garden to eat the 
pleasant fruits. " Awake, north wind ! and come, thou 
south 1 blow upon my garden, that the spices thereof may 
flow out." 

The stream led us to the bottom of the valley, and then 
took its way rather more gently in a narrow bed, bordered 
with grass and brook-lime speedwell, close to the hillside, 
which was festooned with masses of maiden-hair and 
mosses of the most vivid green. We walked on a raised stone 
path, or viaduct, across the gardens, and passed through a 
field of tall broom-corn, every stem of wMch was crowned 
with a plumy tuft, and wreathed with convolvulus, pink 
and white. We saw a number of gardeners at work, most 
of whom were Jews, in the employ of Mr. Meshidlam. 
He has a shop in Jerusalem, exclusively for the sale of 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 65 

the fruit and vegetables from this spot. He has intro- 
duced many fruit-trees and vegetables which had never 
before been cultivated in the East ; and they thrive well, 
especially the seeds and slips from America Were it 
not for the vigorous protection afforded to him by Mr. 
Finn, however, he could not resist the encroachments of 
the Arab tribes in the district, and the fruitful valley 
would soon be a desert. 

After taking leave of the Meshullams, we rode up the 
valley to see the three great pools, one above the other, 
which collect the springs of the neighbourhood. The 
largest and lowest is 582 feet long, and 50 feet deep ; the 
next is 423 feet long, and 39 feet deep ; the upper one is 
380 feet long, and 25 feet deep. Clear blue water half- 
filled these tanks — a precious reserve for the dry season. 
The bottom of the upper pool is higher than the top of the 
next, and so with the second and third. They are partly 
formed of excavations in the rock, and partly of immense 
hewn stones. These are called Solomon's Pools ; and he 
perhaps thought of them, and of his gardens at Urtlls, 
when he said, " I made me gardens and orchards, and I 
planted trees in them of all kinds of fruits ; I made me 
pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth 
forth trees." No doubt the fountain and streams which 
supply these pools found their way down the valley of 
UrtSs to the Dead Sea, and wasted their sweet waters in 
the bitter lake, till a Solomon's hand restrained them, and 
led them into these great reservoirs, and built the famous 
duct round hillsides, over plains, and across valleys, to 
convey the water to the Temple on Mount Moriah ; and 
even now the fountain opposite to the Mosque-el- Aksa is 
thus supplied. Sometimes, it is true, the supply is scanty 
there, owing to the careless keeping of the aqueduct ; for 
men water their horses at the various openings, and other- 
wise waste the water, before it can reach the city. Every 
new Pasha does Ms best to enforce strong measures to 
prevent this abuse, but generally gives up the attempt 
after a short time. 



56 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

We rode homewards, following, as nearly as we could, 
the course of the aqueduct ; and at every opening we saw 
the running water framed in a mass of delicate maiden- 
hair and moss ; at several of these places women were, 
contrary to the law, washing their clothes, and filling their 
water-jars. It strikes me, that there may have been a 
chariot-road by the side of this aqueduct, in ancient times, 
and it may have served as a sort of coping or parapet to it; 
no chariot-road is to be found there now, and in some places 
the path is difficult even for a mule, yet, when we consider 
what damage the torrents of one winter will effect, we 
may wonder that the torrents of centuries have not proved 
even more destructive than they have. 

Eoads in this land must have required peculiar attention 
and care ; in the Talmud it is said^ that, before the goiDg 
up of the tribes, three times a year, to Jerusalem, the roads 
leading to it were prepared. " Prepare the way of the 
people : cast up the highway, gather out the stones, take 
up the stumbling-block out of the way of my people," &c. 
I can imagine the kind of preparation required in obedience 
to this command ; how the rocks, and stones, and d&yris of 
the hills, washed down by the winter rains, were cleared 
away; how the fallen tree-trunks were gathered up and 
supported ; and the broken edges of the road and the holes 
formed by the bursting of springs were blocked up ; and 
I see, in fancy, the chariot-roads winding round terraced 
hills, and through vineyards, pleasant gardens, and pasture- 
land in the plains, as they did in the days when such kings 
as Solomon the magnificent ruled, or when Uzziah the 
lover of husbandry reigned. (See 2 Chron. xxvi. 10, 11.) 

The sun had gone down in red and gold and purple 
splendour when we quitted the tortuous course of the 
aqueduct. We lost the cheerful sound of the running 
stream, whose waters were flowing freely towards Jeru- 
salem ; and we took a more direct route, turning towards 
the Convent of Mar Elias : we mounted the hill, and then 
galloped quickly over the plain of Eephaim, meeting long 
"trings of unladen camels gently jolting along, and numbers 



DOMESTIC LIFB IN PALESTINE. 57 

of Bethlehem peasants and women, returning homewards, 
with their empty baskets poised on their heads ; they had 
been selling fruit and vegetables in Jerusalem. 

It was dusk when we reached the Talibeyeh. We found 
that some poor Jews had been employed there throughout 
the day, to make a sort of verandah or shelter of reeds in 
front of the little stone house, and it proved a very pleasant 
retreat. The reeds used were from the banks of the Jordan ; 
they are about an inch and a half or two inches in dia- 
meter, and twelve or thirteen feet in height, with a plumy 
tuft at the top, like a miniature palm-tree. It is very 
likely that this kind of reed is referred to in the history of 
the Crucifixion, where it is said, " And straightway one of 
them ran and took a sponge and filled it with vinegar, and 
put it on a reedy and gave him to drink." (Matt, xxvii. 48.) 

Thoroughly tired, but well pleased, I went to my tent ; 
and, according to the advice of the Armenian nurse, bathed 
my feet and arms with milk and vinegar, to allay the 
irritation caused by the mosquitoes, which had tormented 
me in the convent at Bethlehem. It proved an effectual 
remedy, and I recommend travellers to try it. 



CHAPTER IV. 



IT was our intention to remain only a short time in 
Jerusalem, but my brother had been detained on con- 
sular business, and was appointed to attend Kamll Pasha 
on an expedition to Hebron, to quell a serious insurrection 
there. 

I was left in the care of my good friends at the Talibeyeh, 
where I enjoyed excellent opportunities for improving 
myself in Arabic, and gleaning information about the 
people of Palestine. Every day brought some new delight. 
I visited all the places of interest in the neighbourhood, 
sketching and making notes, and had the privilege of ac- 
companying Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore when they 
explored the Moslem mosques and shrines on Mount 
Moriah. 

Mr. W. Holman Hunt was then busy in his studio on 
Mount Zion, and there I watched the progress of his won- 
derful picture of the " Meeting in the Temple," and with 
delight looked through his portfolios and sketch-books. 
On the 21st of August I went to Hebron, and after spend- 
ing a few days with my brother at the Pasha's camp, I 
returned to the Talibeyeh; but of these pleasures I wiU 
not pause to speak in detail here. On the 9th of Septem- 
ber, at sunrise, a shower of rain fell, the first I had seen in 
Palestine ; it only lasted half an hour, and seemed quite 
local; low down among the hills, rainbows, one within 
another, spanned the vaUeys, and produced a most beauti- 
ful effect. Soon after the rain was over, a cloud of birds 
appeared coming from the north, their strange snapping 
cries sounding louder and louder as they approached ; they 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 59 

were bee-catchers, bright-coloured birds of the swallow 
kind : but a strong north wind soon carried the rain-clouds 
and the birds far away, and cooled the air, which had been 
very sultry. 

On September 11th, Miss Creasy (who had long been 
resident in Jerusalem) took me to see Philip's Fountain, 
which is about two hours S.W. by W. of Jerusalem. We 
started early, with one kawass, and rode over the rocky 
hiUs to the Convent of the Cross before the dew had dis- 
appeared ; we met large companies of " fellahln " (peasant 
women), flocking to the city with fruit and vegetables; 
most of them wore blue linen shirts, white cotton veils, 
which fell over their shoulders, and crimson girdles fastened 
very low. The foremost were carrying a great variety of 
cucumbers and vegetable marrows ; some of which were 
pear-shaped and of a deep violet-red colour, and very glossy. 
The group of girls, who balanced on their heads baskets 
of grapes from the Greek gardens, made a beautiful picture ; 
trailing branches and tendrils of the vine were hanging 
over their shoulders. We went down a narrow vaUey, 
newly planted with mulberries and vines by the enter- 
prising monks of the Greek convent : on the summit of a 
steep hill, on our right, we saw the picturesque little 
village of Melihah, and large kilns for preparing charcoal 
were burning on the rock ledges or terraces below it. 

We entered the Wady-el-Werdeh, or Valley of Roses 
(well named) ; its broad bed, for above a mile, is like a 
thicket of rose-bushes, cultivated for making rose-water 
and conserves: beyond this garden, which attracted 
thousands of birds to feast on its crimson berries or hips, 
we found fig-orchards, blackberry-bushes, and walnut-trees. 
On our left hand we saw the remains of an ancient build- 
ing, large hewn stones, excavations in the native rock, a 
few fallen columns, and a small stone foimtain called Ain 
Yalo, or the Spring of Ajalon. We were following the 
course of the ancient road " which goeth down from Jeru- 
salem, to QazaP Long ago, Queen Candace's eunuch tra- 
versed it, riding in his chariot ; but the Eomans kept " the 



60 DOMESTIC LIFE IX PALESTINE. 

way "* in repair then ; no chariot could pass it now. It is 
little better than a track for mules, and runs along a sort 
of terrace half-way up the hiU on the left-hand side of the 
valley : rugged rock ledges were above and below us, and 
a few flocks were feeding on the scanty herbage and 
thorns, but down in the bed of the vale there were thresh- 
ing floors and stubbl^fields. About a mile beyond A in 
Yalo we came to Ain Haniyeh, a fine spring of pure 
water, commonly called Philip's FountaiiL Two pilasters, 
with richly carved Corinthian capitals, flank a semicircular 
apse, formed of very large, carefully hewn stones ; from a 
deep arched recess or niche, in the middle of this apse, a 
large body of water gushes and falls with great force into 
a small basin, which overflows into a stone reservoir below, 
and then forms a narrow stream which finds its way into 
the valley. I climbed over immense blocks of stone, 
assisted by a shepherd boy, and gathered some of the 
maiden-hair and mosses which festooned the arched mouth 
of the fountain ; indications of a much larger apse can be 
traced just beyond ; and exactly opposite the fountain, at 
about forty paces from it, there is a fragment of the shaft 
of a column nearly six feet in diameter, but only about 
five feet high ; a few shafts of smaller columns are to be 
seen in a neighbouring field : the viUagers around carry 
away the hewn stones which are found here to build their 
little watch-towers, or to repair their houses. Local tradi- 
tion says that this is the very fountain to which the 
eunuch referred when he said to his teacher, Philip, " See, 
here is water! What doth hinder me to he baptized?'* 
Some boys and girls, wilder looking than the shaggy goats 
which they led to drink at the fountain, crowded around 
me as I sat on the great column, sketching the scene 
before me : my horse, in the meantime, less obedient than 
the chariot of the eunuch, had broken away from the 
block of stone to which he was tethered, and was running 
at full speed into the valley. Loud cries and shouts from 
the boys brought, from all directions, volunteers to pursue 
^he runaway, and, after some little time, the frightened 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 61 

animal was caught, in a circle of the noisiest, wndest-look- 
ing little fellows I ever saw, and to whom the few piastres 
which I distributed was a fortune. 

We returned by a rather different route, and passed 
another fountain, more simple than the others, but very 
picturesque, and formed chiefly of blocks of unhewn stone : 
women were washing their linen shirts and veils in the 
reservoir, and a number of rough desperate-looking men 
were lounging idly round it. They looked over my paper 
while I sketched the fountain and a few figures ; one of 
them said, " If we were to fetch aU the men of the valley, 
and all the men of the hills, they could not do that.'' They 
seemed, by their remarks, to fancy that drawing was a 
sense or faculty peculiar to the lYanks; they were cla- 
morous for backsheesh, and followed us for some distance, 
muttering, grumbling, and disputing among themselves: 
after they had given up the pursuit, I found that I had 
lost my pocket-book, containing papers of value. I gal- 
loped back to Philip's Fountain, though the rays of the sun 
were very powerful : I explained my loss to the shepherd 
boys (now my firm allies), then I rode back to the other foun- 
tain, where I found the group of men who had followed us, 
standing as if in consultation ; I felt certain that they had 
my book. I told them I came from the English consulate, 
and asked them to help me in my search : they so posi- 
tively declared that my book was not lost there, that I felt 
more convinced than ever that they had found it. Pre- 
sently I tried the effect of a small piece of gold, which I 
offered to the finder : in a moment one of the men drew 
my book from his girdle, and rather hesitatingly placed it 
in my hands. I feared he might repent, so I immediately 
gave it to the kawass to take charge of, and we very thank- 
fully rode away. These men were all ftdly armed, and 
dressed in coarse scanty clothing : they looked as if a trifle 
would excite them to mischief and to deeds of daring. 
When we were far enough from them, we sat down 
and took our lunch, which we had provided before setting 
out; we rested under a walnut-tree during the hour of 



62 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

noon, and did not reach the Talibeyeh till three o'clock, 
where we were anxiously awaited, for the Gaza road is not 
considered a very safe one. In the arched recess at the 
back of the house, figs from XJrt&s, strung together, were 
hanging in the sun to dry ; and one of the servants, 
sitting in the shade, was busy stripping off the flag-like 
envelopes of large ripe ears of Indian com, or maize. She 
told me she was going to make a mattress of the dried 
husks for one of the men-servants ; and added that poor 
people, who cannot afford to buy cotton wool, make their 
beds of the outer skins of onions, thoroughly dried and 
sweetened by exposure to the sun,- and sewn up in coarse 
linen cases. 

On the following day, my brother returned from Hebron, 
and was at last free to leave Jerusalem and start for his 
vice-consulate at Haifa. A few days were spent in making 
preparations for the journey. I engaged Katiine, a widow 
of Bethlehem, as my attendant ; she was highly recom- 
mended to me as a faithftd and affectionate woman, but 
with the serious drawback that she was subject to fits of 
mental derangement; for in the year 1834, when her 
native town was the scene of rebellion, her husband and 
little sons were murdered in her presence in their beds, 
and alarm and despair disordered her mind.* (Who can 
calculate how much harm of this nature will be the 
-result of the late massacres in the Lebanon and Damascus, 
and how many weakened intellects will be transmitted to 
succeeding generations? Men survive the sight of open 
warfare on the battle-field; but who can wonder that 
women become mad with rage and terror, who see their 
sons and fathers murdered in their homes ?) 

In a day or two Katrine was quite at home with me. 
She had known my brother for years, and fancied that he 
and I were her own children. She often told me curious 
stories of our childhood, fictions of her imagination ; this 
delusion, however, made her happy, and caused her to be a 
most devoted servant to us. 

* See note, page 43. 



DOMESTIC UFE IN PALESTINE. 63 

On the 14th of September I was roused before sunrise 
by the tinkling sound of mule bells, which reminded me 
that our journey was planned for that day. All was bustle 
and animation at the camp ; groups of Arab servants were 
seated among the rocks ; bags and baggage were strewn 
around; tents and tent poles were being removed and 
packed ; and mules and muleteers stood waiting for orders. 
Mr. Finn was about to make a tour with his niece and a 
Mend, and had arranged to travel with us as far as Yafa. 

After a great many delays, all the attendants were in 
readiness by eleven o'clock ; but it happened that my brother, 
who had gone into Jerusalem early on business, was de- 
tained, and consequently kept a prisoner there, for it was 
Friday, the Moslem Sabbath, and the city gates are always 
closed on that day during the hours of morning prayer, and 
we knew, therefore, that he could not on any consideration be 
released till noon. (This custom is rigidly observed, owing 
to a prophecy which declares that the Holy City will be 
invaded and conquered at Sabbath prayer-time.) So the 
Consul with his party started, leaving us to overtake him 
at Yafa ; and I spent one more evening with Mrs. Finn and 
the little ones at the TaJibeyeh. We had nothing to detain 
US the next day, and at half-past three I rose by lantern 
and starlight, gathered a branch from the olive-tree above 
the tent which had been my resting-place for ten weeks, 
breakfasted with Mrs. Finn, and rode away, well mounted, 
just as the first gleams of light appeared in the eastern sky. 

A Moslem kawass led the way, and my soi-disant mother, 
Katiine (a Latia Christian), closely veiled and wrapped in 
a red Arab cloak,^ sat, a la cavalier^ on the broad pack- 
saddle of a nimble little donkey, and two laden mules, in 
the care of a Jewish muleteer, followed. Although our 
attendants were thus of three conflicting creeds, they 
fraternised very well on the way. 

We did not pause tiU we came to the Fountain of Birds, 
where a peasant boy brought us fine grapes, and helped us 
to give our animals water. The orchards around were now 
in their full beauty, bright with pomegranate fruit and 



64 DOMESTIC LIFB IN PALESTINE. 

blossom ; the rich green fig-trees, wet with dew, smelt like 
heliotropes, and were garlanded and interlaced with richly- 
laden vines ; little birds were rustling the sUveiy leaves of 
the olive-trees, and they now and then swarmed forth in 
cheerful chirruping flight. 

At eight o'clock we reached Abu Ghaush, and while 
we waited for Katrine and the muleteer (who lagged 
behind), I sketched the old church, and then hastened 
onwards. At ten we rested and lunched under a tree 
by a well-side near to Latrone, and the kawass con- 
trived to make us some coffee. I was astonished to find 
that I had travelled through the hill-country of Judea, 
without fear and without fatigue, by the same road which 
a short time before had appeared to me so full of danger 
and difficulty. The hills seemed to me to have been made 
low, and the " rough places plain." 

When we entered the level country, the sun was shaded 
every now and then by quickly moving clouds, and a 
breeze sprang up from the west, pleasantly fanning our 
faces. We cantered over the plain till we reached a village 
calted Kubab, a poor, straggling place, with a few gardens 
fenced with yellow blossoming cactus hedges. We paused 
by a well, in a sort of farmyard, and a lame girl handed 
us some water in a red jar ; she made curious signs and 
gestures, and we soon saw that she was deaf and dumb : 
we gave her a backsheesh, and she limped away well 
pleased. A boy followed us, noisily demanding money as 
we rode on, but we did not give him anything ; so he ran 
back to the poor lame girl, threw her down, and snatched 
her treasure from her. She rose with difficulty, and with 
silent and impotent rage threw handfuls of dust after him, 
and when he was out of sight, she began tearing her scanty 
clothing. We turned back and tried to console her, but 
our words were useless; however, some sweet chocolate 
cakes were more efiectual; we left her stealthily eating 
them, and went on our way, thinking how sad her life 
must be. 

Before noon we entered Eamleh, leaving our servants far 



IX)MESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 65 

behind. We rode under the tall palm-trees, now laden 
with glossy red and golden fruit, hanging in clusters on 
orange-coloured stalks. Strings of camels and laden don- 
keys crowded the dirty, dusty streets, and with diflBculty 
we made our way to the house of a Syrian friend. My 
brother was received with kisses and embraces by the sons 
of the house, and I was led by an Abyssinian slave (a 
eunuch) to his widowed mistress, a superior-looking woman 
dressed in black silk garments embroidered with gold 
thread ; she said, " Welcome, my daughter," and after giving 
me some lemonade, took me to a pleasant chamber opening 
on to a terrace covered with pots of blossoming pinks and 
roses. She called the slave, and he immediately spread a 
mattress for me on the floor ; then she took off my hat and 
habit, and told me to " Rest in peace," and sitting by my 
side on a soft cushioned carpet, she gently fanned me to 
keep away the flies and mosquitoes. When I awoke, after 
an hour or two of refreshing sleep, I found that my hostess 
had gone, and the black slave was kneeling by my side, 
fanning me with a little flag made of a green split palm 
frond nicely plaited ; his dark polished face and large eyes, 
contrasting with his white turban, white cotton dress, and 
crimson silk girdle, rather startled me before I quite re- 
membered where I was. 

(I heard afterwards that he was a favourite and confi- 
dential slave, who had belonged for many years to this 
family.) 

He poured rose water over my hands, and led me to a 
court, where a genuine Arab meal was prepared for us, 
consisting of boiled wheat dressed in butter and mixed with 
minced meat ; some fine broiled fish, in a bed of very sweet 
stewed apricots and rice;* and baked fowls, garnished 
with tomatoes filled with rice and shreds of meat; a 
dessert of grapes, dates, and sweetened starch stuck with 
bleached almonds, followed. After coffee and pipes, we 

* This itUUmge, which is very common, always reminded me of the 
"hroUedfitk " and the ** honeycomb ** spoken of in Luke zziv. 42. 

P 



66 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

called our servants together, and at about five o'clock we 
mounted and rode on towards Y&fa. 

The sun was shining directly in our faces, and we 
watched it gradually going down behind the low coast 
hills which hid from our sight the Mediterranean Sea. 

The crescent moon rose bright and clear, throwing 
our shadows in long dark lines on the sandy road 
before us. 

We saw a little coihpany of Bedouin Arabs, sitting on 
the wayside feasting. Directly we had passed they rose 
up and started into a run, leaping and shouting vociferously, 
and as we and the kawass slackened our pace to join the 
servants who were behind, they passed us, nmning and 
dancing along, snatching off each other^s white skull caps, 
flinging them in the air, flourishing their stipks, throwing 
handkerchiefs at one another, screaming and singing ; their 
heads were shaved except just at the crown, where the hair 
was allowed to grow very long, and was plaited (the plait 
is generally twisted up, and quite concealed under skull 
caps, tarbouches, or kefias, i.e. shawl head-dresses). 

We soon found that these wild-looking men were quite 
harmless ; they had only lingered on the wayside to enjoy 
a heartier meal than usual, and had allowed their camels 
to go on leisurely with two or three camel drivers, and 
they were running to overtake them, which they very soon 
did; they then pursued their way so slowly, that we 
quickly passed them. Some of them were mounted on 
the unwieldy looking animals, and their songs were 
already subdued to harmonize with their monotonous 
swinging pace, and chimed softly and plaintively with 
the tinkling camel bells — ^thus 

" Dear unto me as the sight of my eyes] 

Art thou, oh, my camel ! 
Precious to me as the breath of my life 

Art thou, oh, my camel ! 
Sweet to my ears is the sound 

Of thy tinkling bells, ^h, my camel ! 
And sweet to thy listening ears 

Is the sound of my eyening song." 



DOMESTIC MPE IN PALESTINE. 67 

Sometimes these wanderers pass several days without 
taking substantial food, but* to make up for their abstinence 
they eat voraciously and "make merry" when they have 
the opportunity. It was dark in the bridle path between 
the Y2l,fa Gardens, but the large and many glowing watch 
fires within the enclosures showed that the abundance of 
ripe fruit was well guarded. 

We entered the gate of the town, where crowds of people 
were lounging ; the broadest bazaar was bright with lamps 
and lanterns ; but we soon merged one by one into dark, 
narrow, crooked streets of stairs, and I was directed to 
follow the kawass closely and carefully. His large full 
white Turkish trowsers seemed to move before me by some 
mysterious power, without support or suspension ; for the 
black horse which he rode was quite invisible in the dark- 
ness, and his red fez and embroidered jacket could hot be 
seen, only now and then two shining eyes turned round to 
see if I were safe. I followed my ghostlike leader cautiously 
till we reached the British consulate down by the sea-side, 
where we were welcomed by our friends Dr. and Mrs. Kayat, 
and Mr. Finn, who had only arrived an hour earlier, 
soon came to meet us. He had slept at Eamleh on the 
previous night, and was surprised we had made the journey 
from Jerusalem so easily in one day. Fireworks from a 
ship at anchor attracted us to the oriel window which 
overlooks the sea, and we sat for a long time watching the 
waves as they rolled towards us, crested with white foam, 
and with lines ♦of phosphoric light flashing from beneath 
them, only extinguished by the breaking of each successive 
wave on the rocks. The next day, Sunday, we went to the 
Eev. Mr. Krus^'s house, and in company with Mr. Finn 
and his party, and Dr. Kayat and his family, we heard Dr. 
Bowen (the late lamented Bishop of Sierra Leone) preach a 
most simple, earnest, and appropriate sermon ; a few Arab 
children belonging to the missionary school, and Mrs. 
Krus^ and her family, with the Eev. Henry Eeichart, of 
Cairo, completed the Uttle cbngregatioru Some Arab ladies 
of the neighbouring house watched us the whole time 

f2 



68 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINB. 

through the open window, and seemed greatly amused. 
The hymns were sung with much energy in Arabic, and 
the liturgy (read in English) was responded to by the 
little Arab scholars with vehemence and clearness. I 
spent the remainder of the day with Mr. Finn and his 
party, at the new and well-built house of an Arab friend ; 
we sat on a sheltered terrace (sweet with pinks and 
jasmine), overlooking the terraced house-tops and the 
sparkling sea. Down on our left was the southern wall of 
the town, and the deep dry moat ; beyond it was a sloping 
stony plain, where horsemen were galloping about and 
displaying their skill in the use of spear and musket ; 
farther stUl was the large open cemetery with a cupola sup- 
ported on arches in the centre ; children were playing and 
turbaned smokers were resting under its shade ; a garden 
of figs, palms, and tamarisks, on a gentle declivity, bordered 
the sandy margin of the sea between us and the quaran- 
tine station, and the white sheets or wimples of groups of 
women could be distinguished among the trees; drifted 
sandhills bounded the view. The sea, calm and brightly 
blue, broke gently along the belt of rocks, fringing them 
with foam. We watched the setting of the sun; the 
hUls in the south grew rosy, violet, and grey ; the western 
sky was covered with dark slate-coloured clouds, edged 
with gold. The sunset-gun was fired, and we were led 
by our host to a covered court on the house-top to 
dine, by lantern light. For dessert, among other fruits 
we had a dish of large ruby-coloured pomegranate seeds, 
moistened with wine, and sprinkled with powdered sugar ; 
bleached abnonds formed the border of this tempting- 
looking dish. 

The next day I was sitting in the oriel window at the 
British consulate, with the Rev. Dr. Bowen, while Dr. 
Kayat was engaged with an English captain and a number 
. of Arabs in the lower part of the room ; black clouds came 
travelling quickly from the west, over the lead-coloured 
sea. Dr. Bowen observed (in the words of Christ), " When 
ye see a clotid rise out of the west, straightway ye say^ ^ There 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PAIiESTINE. 69 

cmsth a shower ^^ and so it ts,^* He had scarcely uttered 
the words when the clouds spread and fell in a tremendous 
toirent ; the sea swelled, and rolled heavily to the shore ; 
the ships looked as if they would break away from their 
anchors, and loud peals of thunder made the casemented 
recess in which we sat tremble violently. The captain 
hastened away, fearful for the fate of his struggling ship off 
such a rocky coast. 

When the rain ceased, and the sun shone again, I rode 
out with Dr. Bowen to visit Mr. Jones, an American mis- 
sionary, who lived in the midst of a beautiful garden, east 
of the town. He had done a great deal of good in teaching 
the Arab gardeners and agriculturists habits of order and 
method, but he finds them very slow learners. It rained 
violently at sunrise the next day, and did not clear off till 
noon, after which I sat in my favourite window comer with 
Nasif Giamal (Dr. Kayat's nephew). We saw just below 
us, on the rudely constructed " parade," a crowd of men 
and children assembled round a fantastically dressed man 
exhibiting a goat, which had been tutored to perform some 
curious tricks. It stood with its four feet close together 
on the top of a very long pole, and allowed the man to lift 
it up and carry it round and round within the circle ; then 
the goat was perched on four sticks, and again carried 
ahout A little band of music — fifes, drums, and tam- 
bourines, called together the people from all parts of the 
town to witness this performance. The goat danced and 
balanced himself obediently and perfectly, in very un- 
natural looking postures, as if thoroughly understanding 
the words and commands of his master. The men who 
watched the antics of the goat looked as grave and serious 
as if they were attending a philosophical or scientific 
lecture. 

The assembled crowd had to make way presently for a 
long procession, preceded by horsemen carrying long spears, 
and firing guns ; two little boys, gaily dressed and decked 
with flowers, rode one behind the other on a white horse ; 
two large books, carried on embroidered cushions, were 



70 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

borne by two attendants, women closely veiled walked by 
the side of the boys, singing wildly, and making a peculiar 
ringing noise in the throat not unlike the neighing of 
horses, made slightly musical by modulation. Nasif, who 
can speak English, told me the object of the procession, 
saying, "The boys are Moslems; they have suffered an 
infliction not observed by the Christians ; the Jews have 
it, and also the Moslems." This explained to me that the 
children had been circumcised, and were now being con- 
ducted round the town in triumph- My brother made 
arrangements with the owner of a little Arab boat to be 
prepared to take us to Haifa, as soon as the south wind 
rose. Two monks of Mount Carmel begged to accompany 
us. We made our plans so as to be ready at a minute's 
notice, and spent the evening with Sit Leah : she had quite 
recovered, and proudly showed me her little Selim. I 
found that every one addressed her and spoke of her as 
" Um Selim," or mother of Selim, and the father was called 
Abu Selim. 

On Wednesday, 19th September,. I was roused before 
sunrise, and informed that the Eeis (or Arab captain) had 
sent for us, as the wind was favourable ; so with the two 
monks and Nasif G. we quickly went down to the quay ; 
in the meantime the wind had shifted, and the Eeis could 
not undertake to steer against it ; but," he added, " it will 
veer round to the south again by midnight, and then we 
shall reach Haifa in eight or ten hours." It was still very 
early ; we strolled leisurely through the town ; the people 
were just beginning to stir ; the shutters of the shops in 
the bazaars were being lifted up — they are like flap doors 
attached by rude hinges to the beams above the shop- 
fronts, and when opened and propped up, they form excel- 
lent shades, which are easily dropped down and secured at 
night. On my return to the consulate I found two of the 
women servants making bread, sitting on the ground at a 
low circular wooden board. One of them moistened some 
flour with water, another added salt, and a small piece of 
''eavened dough (to "leaven the whole lump"), and then 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 71 

kneaded it vigorously in turn with her companion. It was 
left to rise, and then the two eldest daughters of Dr. Kayat 
divided it into portions, rolled them into little round loaves, 
which were carried away to the oven on large round trays 
made of reeds, boimd together with strong grass. 

We prepared ourselves for the journey, and then went to 
rest early, without undressing. At midnight the Eeis sent 
for us, and immediately we went out into the darkness, 
with Nasif and three or four lantern bearers. I noticed a 
number of men, wrapped in lehaflfs, sleeping on low stone 
platforms, or by the side of kneeling camels, in the streets 
near the quay. The muetzelim, or governor, was parading 
the place. Nasif told me that he did so at irregular 
intervals, sometimes in disguise, so as to see the state of 
the town at night, and to ascertain, by personal observation, 
whether the guards did their duty. We met the two Carmel- 
ite monks on the dark wharf, and the great water-gate was 
opened for us. I was somehow dropped gently into a little 
rowing boat far down in the darkness below, where I was 
taken charge of by two brawny boatmen. After a deal of 
shouting and jolting, we were all huddled together, and 
skimmed over the water to the sailing boat, which awaited 
us outside the rocky barrier. I found it was divided into 
three parts ; the central portion being like an uncovered 
hold, four feet deep and eight feet square ; the decks fore 
and aft were encumbered with the ship's tackle, and 
crowded with sailors, who were singing lustily. The hold, 
lighted by two lanterns, was matted and set apart for pas- 
sengers and luggage. Our portmanteaus and carpet-bags 
served us for a couch, and the monks sat on their saddle-bags, 
wrapped in their comfortable-looking hooded robes. Poor 
Katrine, who had never been on the sea before^ was very 
much alarmed; she rolled herself up in her cloak, stretched 
herseK full length by my side, and was happily soon fast 
asleep. Our kawass smoked his pipe in company with 
the Eeis above ; and an Italian, who had smuggled him- 
self and his baggage on board, in the Hurry and darkness, 
kept aloof with the sailors. The sky was bright with stars. 



72 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

the south wind was strong and filled the sails, and by fits 
and starts I dozed till dawn of day ; then I roused myself, 
and watched the little group around me, the hooded monks 
sleeping soundly^ my brother at my feet, leaning against a 
hamper, and Katrine so enveloped, that I could not distin- 
guish her head from her heels. 

The favourable wind had ceased, and the sailors were 
busy taking in sail ; by the time the sun appeared above 
the low coast hills the wind had shifted to the west, and 
we were in danger of being driven on the rocks. It then 
suddenly veered to the north, and blew so violently that 
the Eeis was obliged to cast anchor, and we were tossed on 
a heavy sea, near to a desolate coast, where there was no 
possibility of landing. By nine o'clock the sun was very 
powerful ; an awning made of the now useless sails was 
thrown over the hold. We found our quarters far from 
comfortable, but we were determined to make the best of 
them. By noon the heat was intense and suffocating down 
in the hold, so I climbed on to the deck, and sat on a coil 
of rope, clinging to the mast : the strong wind and the 
sea spray revived me. 

• The coast, w^hich was every now and then concealed by 
the high waves, was a range of drifted sand hills, traversed 
by flocks of goats feeding on the scanty patches of pasture. 
Not a human habitation, not even a human being, was 
visible, and not a boat or ship was seen all day. 

In the afternoon the wind ceased, but the ship rocked 
lazily from the effect of the sea-swell, which had not yet 
subsided. 

My brother read St. Paul's voyage to me, as it is re- 
corded in the 27th of Acts : it seemed more interesting 
than ever. We were not far from Cesarea, the port from 
which Paul embarked ; and he was tossed about by con- 
trary winds in this sea for many days. It must have been 
about the same time of the year, too, during the equinoctial 
gales, when, as he said, ^* sailing was dangerous ;^^ it is 
distinctly explained that it was after the great Fast of the 
Atonement, which is held on the tenth day of the month of 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 73 

Tisri, and corresponds with the latter part of our month of 
September. 

At sunset " the south toirid blew softly" The sails were 
soon set, and in better spirits we sat down to our evening 
meal, and shared our chickens and preserved soup with 
the monks, who added their eggs, cheese, and cognac. 

We passed a dreamy, restless night, " sailing slowly," 
and in the morning were nearly opposite Tant&ra. The 
wind had changed to north-east, so my brother insisted on 
landing, to pursue our journey on shore. We tacked about, 
put out to sea, and then allowed the strong wind to drive 
us towards the picturesque coast. Little islands of rock, 
and mounds of ancient masonry, stood out before it, beaten 
by the waves. With some manoeuvring, the boat was 
brought safely to the beach, where there were plenty of 
Tant&ra men to meet us, and carry us through the surf to 
the smooth yellow sands. 

I was delighted to find myself on firm land again ; and 
I shall always remember St. Paul's advice to the centurion, 
and vote against sailing in the Levant in the autumn. 

The custom-house officer came to meet us, and, followed 
by troups of men and boys, we approached the little town, 
which comprises about thirty or forty rudely-built houses, 
made of irregularly-pUed blocks of hewn stone, bits of 
broken columns, and masses of mud or clay. 

The custom-house officer, Ab4 Habib, guided us to his 
house, which consisted of one low arge square room, lined 
with clay, and roofed with tree branches blackened with 
smoke. One half of the ceiling was concealed by matting, 
and the other half was picturesque with pendant branches. 
Small holes served as windows, and the roughly-made door 
was a portable one. A mattress spread on the floor was 
used as a divan. Jars of earthenware, and metal saucepans, 
stood against the wall ; a cooking-place was built in one 
comer, made of large finely-beveUed ancient stones and 
burnt clay ; baskets of coarse salt from the searshore were 
near to it. Hablb, the son of our host, prepared coffee 
for us ; in our presence he roasted the berries, and then 



74 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

pounded them in a stone mortar. A large box, like a 
muniment chest, with ornamental lock and hinges of 
wrought iron, stood near the door, and I perched myself 
on it, to be as far away as I could from the mud floor, on 
which I could distinctly see a numerous assembly of large 
fleas dancing and hopping about The monks, with truly 
monastic virtue, did not seem to mind them. Gaunt-looking 
women, hiding their faces with tattered white cotton veils, 
peeped at us, and dirty but pretty children came crowding 
round, 

Katilne made a tour of the town, and then took me to 
the house which she considered the neatest and cleanest, 
where I rested with her and refreshed myself 

The women who welcomed me were dressed in tight 
jackets and full trousers, made of washed-out Manchester 
prints, patched all over without regard to colour or pattern ; 
their heads were covered with mundlls (squares of coloured 
muslin), their necks adorned with coins, and their wrists 
with twisted silver bracelets. 

They were exceedingly amused with my little travelling 
dressing-case. They told me they had never seen a hair 
brush before. They unplait their long henna-stained hair 
about once a week only, and occasionally clean it with 
fuUer's-earth (which is found near), and use small-tooth 
combs of bone or wood. 

After some delay, animals were procured. Fortunately 
we had our saddles with us. We left our heavy luggage 
in the care of the Eeis, and at two, p.m. we mounted and 
took leave of Tantiira. We made a rather ludicrous pro- 
cession — the kawass, on a shaggy mule, took charge of 
our carpet-bags, and led the way; the two monks were 
mounted on donkeys, so small that their sandalled feet 
and heavy robes nearly touched the ground ; my brother 
rode on an old white horse, whose head was garnished 
with red trappings ornamented with shells ; I was put on 
a little pony who had lost his mane and tail, and who 
could not understand a side-saddle — but persisted in turning 
round and round to investigate the mystery ; and Katrine, 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 75 

on a stubborn donkey, had great difficulty in keeping up 
with us. 

We rode northwards along the shore, which was strewn 
with blocks of marble and hewn stones. 

Women and children were busy collecting in large 
baskets the coarse encrusted salt, which settles in the 
natural hollows and artificial basins of the rocks on the 
beach below. Large herds of cattle and goats, the chief 
wealth of Tantftra, grazed on the plain on our right hand 
just above us, which was overgrown with thorns, thistles, 
dwarf mimosa, and low brushwood. A little beyond Tan- 
tiira stands the ancient Dora, or Dor, on a rugged 
promontory, with ruined walls all round it, at the edge 
of the cliff. From its centre rises what appeared to me 
at first to be a lofty tower or castle ; but on approaching 
it I found it was only the narrow southern wall of some 
long since fallen building : it stands about thirty feet 
high. This place is now quite abandoned, as the walls are 
tottering and the cliffs are giving way; the stones are 
gradually being removed to build up Tantiira. Opposite 
to these ruins, the plain was concealed from us by a low 
ridge of rocky hills, running close to the sandy shore, 
which is here and there enlivened by a group of palm- 
trees. We kept close to the sea till we came, in about one 
hour and a half, to Athlite, or Castellum Pelegrinum, a 
curious motley pile of ruins standing out on a rocky head- 
land The foundation stones are so massive, that they have 
resisted the storms of centuries, and tell of a time anterior 
to the Eomans, who no doubt erected the fortress, buUt 
the walls, and fashioned the columns which are now falling 
to decay. The crusaders, too, have left some of their 
handiwork here — the pointed arches and the ruins of a 
Christian church still speak of them. Within the walls 
of the church, and under the shadow of the fortress, modern 
houses 'are rudely buUt, and inhabited by a poor Moslem 
population. A group of women were resting by a well of 
sculptured stone, just outside the walls. Opposite to this 
interesting place we found a narrow defile cut through t> 



76 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

rocks, leading eastward direct from the shore to the plain. 
Deep ruts, for chariot wheels, were cut in the road, which 
was just wide enough for two horsemen to ride freely 
abreast. The white limestone walls rise abruptly on each 
side, garnished with patches of fragrant herbs and amber- 
coloured lichen ; lintels at each end of this passage show 
that formerly it was protected by gates, and ruins of strong 
fortifications surmount it. 

We passed out of this curious defile into the fertile but 
not very extensively cultivated plain, or "Vale of Dor," 
between the mountain range of Carmel and the rocky 
coast-hills under whose pleasant shade we pursued our 
way. We could see that the two chains of hills met at 
an acute angle far away in the north. Now and then, 
natural fissures in the rocks, or little valleys made fertile 
by winter torrents, revealed to us the sun and the sea. 

We stopped to water our animals at a little spring, 
called Ain-ed-Dustrein, which forms a tiny lake, and then 
finds its way between the hills to the shore. A group of 
goatherds, with reed pipes, were assembled round a clay 
trough, where their flocks of goats were crowding to drink. 
The vegetation by this stream and fountain was wild and 
luxuriant; oleanders, lupins, tall grass, and the arbutus 
abounded. The monks soon pointed out, with delight, 
the white convent of Mar EUas on the headland of 
CarmeL 

Pleasant sounds of voices, songs, and bells, and laughter 
reached us ; and we saw an animated little party approach- 
ing, mounted on camels, whose nodding heads and necks 
were decorated with beads, shells, ciimson tassels, and 
strings of little tinkling bells. I paused by the wayside to 
watch them, as they slowly passed. There were thirteen 
camels strung together, each carrying two or three women 
and children, all in gala dresses, made chiefly of soft 
crimson silk, with white Vandyked stripes on it. 0n their 
heads they wore scarfs or veils, of various colours and 
materials (silk, muslin, and wool), folded across theii* fore- 
heads, just meeting the eyebrows, then thrown over the back 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 77 

of the head, and brought forward again to cover their faces, 
all but the shining eyes ; the fringed or bordered ends 
were allowed to fall gracefully over the shoulders. Some 
of the women had slipped these veils, or wimples, down 
below their lips, so as to join in the chorus of the songs 
improvised by the two professional singing-women who 
accompanied them, My brother could perceive that it was 
a bridal party, by these songs, which very much resembled 
in style the " Song of Songs which is Solomon's." A 
number of men were in attendance on foot, forming a 
picturesque body-guard to the exalted women. They were 
people of one of the villages of the plain or vale of Dor, 
and had been to Haifa, to purchase dresses and trinkets, 
&c. for two approaching weddings in a family of some 
local importance. They were scarcely out of hearing, 
when we met another noisy group, consisting of men and 
boys, with a few camels, mules, and donkeys, clumsily 
laden with the purchases for the weddings — cooking 
utensils, baskets of rice, reed mats, bales of goods, and 
two red wooden boxes, ornamented with gilt hinges and 
strap-work. 

The largest camel carried, high on his back, two little 
wooden cradles, painted blue, red, and yellow; one for 
each of the brides. This piece of furniture is regarded in 
the East as the most important and necessary item of a 
trousseau; and she is an unhappy wife who does not soon 
see rocking in the gaudy cradle an infant son, whose name 
she may take, and through whom she may become honoured 
among women. 

As we proceeded northward, the plain was so much 
more narrow, that we could distinguish the deep caverns 
and excavations in the limestone hills opposite, which 
have, in turn, served as places of refuge or retreat for 
prophets, saints, and anchorites, bandittis of robbers and 
beasts of prey. 

The village of Tireh was pointed out to me, surrounded 
by cultivated fields and orchards. Groups of palm-trees 
grew here and there, and the hill-sides were clothed with 



78 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINK 

dwarf oak, wild fig, and locust trees. The fruit of the 
locust, when ripe, is like a large crooked bean-pod, brown 
and glossy, filled with large seeds ; and it is so nutritious, 
that the children of the poor live entirely on it, during the 
season, requiring no other food; for it contains all the 
necessary elements for the support of life — starch, sugar, 
oil, &c., in proper proportion. I found it, when new, rather 
too sweet to suit my taste ; but children seem to enjoy it, 
and they thrive on it, eating the shell as well as the seeds. 
When this fruit is stored, it becomes somewhat dry, and 
less sweet ; but on being soaked in honey, it is like new 
fruit. The Arabs all like sweet food, and of many a man 
of Judaea and Galilee, as well as of John the Baptist, it 
might be said, " His uneat " (for a season) " was locusts and 
wild honey!' * ** 

Just before sunset, we reached the foot of the headland 
which forms the southern boundary of the bay of Akka. 
On its summit the convent stands. 

It was too late, and we were all too tired, to go round to 
the usual ascent on the other side; so we urged our animals 
up the steep and pathless rocks, here and there overgrown 
with brushwood, thorns, and thistles, fit only to be traversed 
by goats and conies. 

The monks, who had been our guests on the way, now 
acted as our guides and hosts, for they were on convent 
ground. They warned us to grasp the manes of our tired 
steeds firmly, as they moimted the steep ledges ; and I 
now found the disadvantage of being on a pony without 
a mane. After about ten minutes' difllcult riding, we 
reached a cultivated garden, on a plateau, in front of the 
large, well-built convent. 

Fr^re Charles, an old friend of my brother, came out to 
meet and welcome us, and kissed him and the two monks 
again and again. 

We were about six hundred feet above the plain, with a 
magnificent scene before us ; the sun was just going down, 

* The Arabic name for the Locnst tree is '' Khardb," and the beans 
are commonly called '' St. John's bread." 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 79 

and the Great Sea was flooded with crimson Kght The bay 
of Akka and the plain surrounded by the hills of Galilee 
were on our right; the ruins of an ancient port and fortress 
on the level strip of land below us ; and at about a mile 
to the right of it stood the little town of Haifa — ^very inte- 
resting to me, for it was there I was to make a home with 
my brother, at H.B.M. vice-consulate. 

We spent a pleasant evening with the good monks. It 
was Friday; they did not let us fast, but sat by us, in 
pleasant chat, while we enjoyed fish, flesh, and fowl from 
their excellent cuisine. After dinner, we went to the divan, 
or drawing-room; and I looked through the convent album, 
which is quite a polyglot, containing the autographs of 
many great and celebrated characters, testimonies to the 
kindness and hospitaUty always met with here. 

Three or four examples of misplaced zeal and intolerance 
have called forth the satire, wit, and displeasure of less 
prejudiced pilgrims ; and Frfere Charles pointed out to me 
a few pages crossed, re-crossed, and interlined by indignant 
conmientators. He remarked that they always seemed to 
be particularly interesting to English people, provoking 
laughter and anger by turns. The pages had evidently 
been translated to him. 

We gratefully rested that night in clean, comfortable, 
neatly-furnished rooms, and on French mosquito-curtained 
beds. In the morning, I heard the swell of the organ and 
the chanting of the monks at an early hour. A servant 
brought caf6 au lait to my room at seven, and told me my 
brother had already gone down to Haifa. 

Fr^re Charles and our fellow-travellers conducted me to 
the chapel, which has a finely-proportioned dome and 
marble floor, and a few sculptured figures in alabaster. 

The ground-floor of the convent is occupied by the ofllces, 
kitchens, pharmacy, and surgery ; and a large portion of it 
is set apart for a place of shelter for poor pilgrims. 

The first floor, consisting of a fine suite of lofty rooms, is 
nicely furnished, and prepared for travellers, who are 
expected to pay first-class hotel prices, but no dii'ect charge 



80 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

is made. The second floor is reached by a narrow stair- 
case, at the foot of which an inscription in Italian and 
French proclaims that females are not admitted. The 
monks told me that there was an excellent library of 
English, Latin, French, and Italian books up there, as well 
as a large refectory and a great number of cells ; and the 
terraced roof made a fine promenade for the recluses. 

Presently a kawass came, bringing a horse for me, and an 
invitation to spend the day with Mr. Finn, whose tents 
were pitched just outside Haifa ; so with Katrine, in her 
blue shirt and white veil, by my side, and the kawass 
leading the way, I emerged from the convent buildings 
and gradually descended on the north-east side by a wind- 
ing path almost like a rocky staircase. The upper part of 
the hill was covered with wild flowers, fragrant herbs, shmbs, 
artichokes, acanthus, and dwarf oaks, and on the lower 
terraces a fine grove of olives and some fig-trees flourished. 

The little town of Haifa was in sight, flags above all the 
consulates were waving a welcome to Mr. Finn and my 
brother ; I was quite surprised to recognise so many ; they 
were French, Austrian, Prussian, .Greek, Dutch, and 
American, and made the place look quite cheerful 

We rode through a beautiful olive grove in the plain at 
the foot of the hill, crossed several stubble fields, some 
rocky waste land and young plantations, and found the 
tents of Mr. Finn under a large terebinth-tree, near to the 
sea-shore, not very far from the west wall of the town. 

Visitors were coming and going all day, and coffee and 
pipes were in constant requisition. 

The view from the open tent, looking towards the north, 
was very lovely. I will try to make you see it, as I saw it 
on that sunny afternoon. Fancy a foreground of white 
rocks and dark thorny bushes, then a stony bridle path 
skirting a garden which gently slopes towards the shore, so 
that the broad sands are quite concealed by its fruit trees, 
and the blue sparkling sea looks as if it came close up to 
the hedge of prickly pears below. On the left-hand side 
of the picture the sea meets the sky ; but from the rigjrt P* 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTIKE. 81 

range of nndulatii^ hills, tinted with crimson, purple, 
and orange, extend more than half-way across it, termi- 
nating in a bold white cliflf or headland, called Eas el 
Abiod, standing out in strong contrast to the dark blue 
sky and darker sea. 

The opposite shore of the bay, nine miles distant, is 
marked by a level line of white sand, which seems to 
separate the sea from the green plains at the foot of the 
hills ; and on a low promontory to the right of Eas el 
Abiod, the proud-looking little city of *Akka is con- 
spicuous, and forms the central point of the picture. 
Above the clearly defined summits of the hills silvery 
clouds are resting; Mount Hermon rises in the distance 
pale and shadowy, till the sun is 'low, and then it is tinged 
with gold and violet ; four ships are at anchor on the right, 
and a vessel in full sail is entering the bay from the north ; 
a man-of-war is cruising about far out at sea. A tall palm- 
tree on one side, and an oak, and a seared, white-branched 
fig-tree on the other, enclose this coup d'ceil. The bridle- ** 
path across the foreground was enlivened by passers-by, 
such as troops of bare-footed boys, driving donkeys laden 
with hewn stpnes, which had been taken from the ruins of 
the fortress, and were about to be used in H&ifa, where 
many new houses were in progress, and still more were 
planned. Camels laden with grain and melons jolted by, 
and a few townspeople passed backwards and forwards as 
if to peep at our tents. At sunset there came large num- 
bers of goats and cattle, led towards the town to be secured 
there for the night, for it is not safe to leave them in the 
open country, even in the care of the well-armed herds- 
men. 

Hsdfa is a walled town, in the form of a parallelogram, 
pleasantly situated close to the sea, on a gently rising slope. 
A steep hill (a spur of Moimt Carmel) rises immediately 
behind it, and is crowned by a small castle, to which I 
climbed with Mr. Finn, and thence looked down into the 
town ; the houses are distributed irregularly ; those occu- 
pied by consuls and merchants are large, substantial buUd- 

G 



82 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINK 

ings of hewn stone, with central courts and broad terraces. 
The poorer class of houses are of earth and rough stone, 
and have no upper chambers. All the roofs are flat. 

On each side of the little town there are fine fruit 
gardens, where the pomegranates and figs especially 
flourish. A grove of palm-trees borders the sandy shore 
on the east of the town. 

I returned to the convent to sleep, and after spending 
the next day, Sunday, with Mr. Finn at the tents, I pre- 
pared to enter Haifa for the first time, by moonlight. 



CHAPTEE V. 



ALTHOUGH the tents were very near to the town, Mr. 
Finn laughingly insisted that I should not make my 
first entry into H4ifa on foot ; so I mounted, and, with my 
brother and a few of his Arab friends walking by my side, 
traversed the bridle-path by the gardens, and approached 
the embattled stone gateway; its heavy wooden doors 
(covered with hides and plates of iron) were thrown open for 
us, on their creaking hinges, by the sleepy wardens, whose 
mattresses were spread on stone platforms in the square 
vaulted chamber of the gate. They welcomed us with the 
words, " Enter in in j[>eaceJ' We said, " May Ood preserve 
you ; good night.'* And they answered, " A thousand good 
nights to you ; " but their greetings were almost drowned 
by the angry barking of a troop of dogs, roused by the 
clanging of the great doors behind us. 

Within the town, wherever there was space, flocks and 
herds were lying down, crowded together in the moonlight ; 
and in the narrow, tortuous, dirty, channeled streets we 
met now and then a moaning, miserable-looking, sleepless 
cow or stray donkey. 

We passed a little belfried Latin chapel, shaded by a 
pepper-tree (just like a willow), and a simple mosque and 
minaret, with a palm-tree near it, and then came to a 
pleasant opening close to the sea-shore, where a number of 
camels, camel-drivers, and peasants were sleeping round 
the red embers of a wood fire. 

I dismounted at the entrance of a house overlooking this 
scene, and passed under a low arched gateway, into a 

02 



84 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

roughly-paved open court, brightened by the lamps and 
lanterns in the rooms all round it, the doors of which were 
open, for their inmates, our neighbours, were watching and 
waiting to see and welcome us. 

I mounted a steep uncovered stone stairway to a broad 
landing, dignified by the name of terrace, leading to two 
square lofty airy rooms, with white-washed walls and stone 
floors, where my brother had formerly lived for a year or 
more ; this was to be our temporary home, and Katiine, 
with the help of an upholsterer (an Arab Jew), had been 
very busy making them ready for us. 

At the end of the terrace was a little room, in which 
were aU the requisites for preparing pipes, coffee and 
sherbets; narghU^s, chibouques, tobacco-bags, coffee-cups, 
and glasses garnished its walls; and Yflse^ our little 
coffee boy, pipe-bearer and page, who, to his infinite satis- 
faction, presided over it, came out, arrayed in all his best, 
to kiss my hands, and evidently did his utmost to make a 
favourable impression on hi^ new mistress ; he had on clean 
loose white cotton drawers, a scarlet cloth jacket, a shawl 
girdle, and a white quilted cotton skull-cap. Katrine was 
quite content with her new quarters below, and she told me 
she had imexpectedly found some cousins in HSifa ; I congra- 
tulated her, guessing, however, that this was only one of 
her curious delusions. 

My brother's dragoman and secretary, Mahomed, his 
Egyptian groom, and several candidates for service at the 
Vice-Consulate, crowded round to welcome me, and solicit 
my favour and protection, in words which were exactly like 
quotations from the Old Testament. 

An elderly Moslem woman, with an anxious time-worn 
face, came, and, after saluting me, said, " If now I have found 
grace in your sighU speak for me to my lord, your brother, 
that he may take my son into his service ; speak now, I pray 
you, a word for my son, for he is my only son, and I am a 
widow," 

Mattresses, cushions, and pillows, newly covered with 
chintz, placed nearly all round the rooms on planks, sup- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 85 

ported by roughly-made low wooden trestles, a few pieces 
of European furniture, and a pretty well stocked bookcase, 
made the place look cosy and comfortable ; and the boat 
torn Taatftra arrived safely during the night with our 
luggaga 

The next morning, September 24!th, two men from 
Nazareth came to welcome us, and gave me a fatted lamb ; 
soon afterwards a little party arrived from Shefa 'Omar, with 
a camel load of fine water melons ; and a peasant from a 
neighbouring village brought us some goat's milk cheese. 

I must explain that these offerings are generally paid for, 
at a rate considerably above the market price. 

Saleh Sakhali our neighbour, a Christian Arab, an intel- 
hgent, thoughtful looking man, took breakfast with us ; he 
told me that my brother was the only Englishman who had 
ever resided in HSifa, and that I was the first English girl 
who had ever passed a night within the walls of the town ; 
he said that very strange notions and opinions were held by 
the Arabs about English women and English society, and 
a great deal of curiosity was expressed by his friends on 
the subject ; they hoped now to have an opportunity of 
judging for themselves by personal intercourse with us. 

Saleh did not understand any European language, but 
he was clever and very quick of comprehension, and fond 
of study ; he kindly volunteered to teach and hear me read 
Arabic every day. 

On inquiry I found that the population of HS.ifa Was, in 
1854, computed thus : — 

MoslemB • . • . 1,200 

Greek Catholics . . 400 ) - ,, j. * xi. t» % 

T- . . ^Q f Adherents of the Pope, and conse- 

Maronit^s '.'.'.'. SO) ^^^^^^^ ^^®' ^""^^ patronage. 
Orthodox Greeks . 800 
Jews 82 



Makmg a total of 2,012 Souls. 

In the year 1860, the population was reckoned at about 
2,300 souls. We went out and took leave o? Mr. Finn, 



86 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

who was on the point of starting for 'Akka; his tents were 
all cleared away ; then we called at each of T;he Consulates, 
for among the Levantines the new coiner is expected to be 
the first caUer. The French Consul (who in early youth 
had served in the ranks of the first Napoleon) received us 
heartily, and introduced me to his wife, a Syrian lady, who 
spoke French fluently. The Austrian Consul is a native of 
one of theDahnatian Isles, and the other consulates were held 
by lonians and natives of Scio, who showed us great courtesy 
and kindness. The American consular agent is an Arab, 
who can speak a little broken English. The ladies of these 
families were all either Syrian or Greek ; but they most of 
them spoke Italian, and welcomed me into their circle with 
graceful cordiality; two other families, of French extraction, 
engaged in commerce, completed the European colony of 
HSifa. Their houses were built in Oriental fashion, round 
courts (some of which were paved with black and white 
marble), and famished with Turkish divans and French 
mirrors, consoles, pictures, &c. I must not omit the little 
caf4 called the Victoria Hotel, and kept by a Maltese. 

Wednesday, September 26th, a party of women in white 
izzars, or sheets, from the court below, came early and 
brought me several flat loaves of bread, stamped with a 
cross, formed of groups of sacred monograms, 10. XO. NI. 
KL, &c., in celebration of the Greek Feast of the Holy 
Cross. 

Pres*ently the Greek bishop of 'Akka visited us. He wore 
a long blue cloth dress, very flowing and open, exposing an 
under robe of crimson silk, a crimson girdle, and black 
pointed shoes. He did not remove his low, brimless, black 
hat, which curves slightly and spreads towards the crown. 

When he and his suite had retired, a letter was handed to 
my brother, which caused him to rise hastily and go out ; 
I watched from the front window, and soon saw evident 
signs of a commotion in the town ; little groups of armed 
men were standing about in the open place, and passing 
hurriedly to and fro ; in a short time I saw aU the consuls 
in a body,* preceded by their Elawasses, carrying their 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 87 

• 

swords and tall silver-headed sticks, going towards the 
Governor's caiftle, which was in sight. My brother ran np 
for a moment to tell me that Ttreh and the villages in its 
neighbourhood had united to attack Haifa, and 300 or 400 
of the peasantry were just outside the walls attempting to 
effect an entrance, — we were actually in a state of siege ; 
the two gates were closed and guarded, and wherever the 
walls were very weak, detachments of impromptu volunteers 
were placed. I sat alone watching and wondering what 
would happen ; men were parading the streets, and making 
a great noise, and armed with old guns, staves, and swords 
of all shapes ; the boys followed their example, by march- 
ing about with sticks, shouting lustily, seemingly half for 
fan and half for fear. I could hear the firing of guns now 
and then &om the back of the town, and the loud screams 
of the terrified women and children. 

Girls from the neighbouriDg houses and the court below 
flocked into my room, with their mothers, crying and 
trembling ; they wondered why Madama Inglesi (as they 
called me) did not show any signs of fear. I tried to calm 
them, saying, "JBe at rest, Allah is good;*' but they 
almost nonplussed me by replying, ^* Allah is good I 
Praised he AUahl hut the sons of Ttreh are had!'' and 
they refused to be comforted. 

A group of heavily-armed, mounted horsemen were 
prancing about, as if to excite all the people to action. 

The consuls returned from the castle, where a council 
had been held ; they had drawn up a protest against the 
Government, and signed it. 

I was told that four of the most venturesome of the 
attacking party had been shot under the south wall, and 
some of our townspeople had been slightly wounded. The 
Tirehites had retreated ; but as it was expected they would 
renew the attack at night, preparations were made to resist 
it, for the walls of HSifa are not very strong, and could 
easily be scaled or broken down. 

A messenger was despatched to 'Akka, by boat, to demand 
assistance; and in the meantime my brother, at the 



88 POMESTIC UFE IN PALESTINE. 

Governor's request, procured guns and ammunition from 
an English ship in the port Our room frajs converted 
into an armoury, and our stairway and terrace were soon 
crowded with applicants for arms, which were cautiously 
distributed. A Government-secretary stood by, making a 
list of the names of the volunteers thus supplied. 

By sunset the excitement had greatly increased, and no 
one seemed to think of going to rest. The consuls kept a 
careful look-out on the walls, and men paraded the town 
by moonlight, shouting, " Our swords are strong, and our 
trust is in Ood;*' and the boys, with their sticks uplifted, 
echoed the words at the top of their voices. 

Several Arab women, my neighbours, came and sat with 
me when my brother went out ; one of them brought a 
favourite Arab dish of bleached and crushed walnuts and 
vermicelli, baked in butter and sugar (quite hot). These 
women all wore full trowsers and tight jackets; some 
were made of coloured prints, and others of striped Da- 
mascus silk ; Katrine's simple Bethlehem dress was quite 
strange to them, they had never seen the costume before. 
They smoked, and chatted, and laughed, and cried by 
turns, and retired hastily, veiling themselves, when my 
brother came in at midnight to tell me that fifty artillery- 
men and thirty Bashi BazfLka had arrived fix)m 'Akka, in 
consequence of the consular protest ; they were placed in 
proper positions as sentinels and patrols, and 300 or 400 
of the peasantry of a friendly village came to oflfer their 
assistance: many of them were mounted on horses and 
carried long spears, the rest had heavy guns ; altogether, 
the little place looked quite warlike. Thus protected, we 
filept in peace. 

The next morning a large party of horsemen arrived 
from Shefe 'Omar and dismounted at our house, for they 
had come, they said, especially to protect the English vice- 
consulate. 

The Tirehites had now quite retreated, but our little town 
was still full of excitement ; the assembled volunteers and 
armed peasantry were galloping about, singing and shout- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE, 89 

ing, and now and then firing their guns; they seemed 
quite disappointed at not finding any especial use for 
them: the place was so well guarded that there was no 
longer any fear of an attack. 

Just before sunset I stroUed out with my brother through 
the quadrangle or castle-court (which was occupied by the 
artilleTy), out at the east gate, through the Moslem cemetery 
to the fruit-gardens and the palm-grove. We were return- 
ing homewards on the sands when the loud and angry 
shouting of some herdsmen attracted our notice ; a large 
number of cattle, some of which were said to be stolen pro- 
perty, were being led towards the town, and they were the 
subjects of the dispute. A crowd soon assembled, the 
noise increased, and an angry contest ensued, till words 
were followed by blows. I was led out of the way, and 
stationed on an iembankment, thrown up years ago by 
Ibrahim Pasha's soldiers. The disturbance was, naturally, 
misconstrued by the gallant volunteers and defenders of 
H^a, and a troop of mounted peasantry issued from the 
gates, their long spears uplifted, the dust flying under the 
feet of their galloping horses, while their long striped 
cloaks and shawl head-dresses (kefias) streamed like flags 
or banners. 

The cattle and goats fled in all directions, and in their 
fright they did not seem to see where they were going, but 
blundered into thickets, against rocks and tombs, and into 
the sea. I was very nearly thrown down by some of them. 

More than a hundred men came out before they dis- 
covered it was only a false alarm, and then, regretfully, 
they retraced their steps. Saleh, who was with us, told me 
to consider it as a little " fantasia," got up for my especial 
entertainment. 

After our evening meal my brother was called away. I 
puzzled over my Arabic lesson for some time, and then 
went out on the terrace, where two of the men-servants 
were already sleeping. It seemed to me like a dream to 
be standing there alone in the moonlight, the night-silence 
only broken by the rippling of the waves on the shore, the 



90 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

bleating of my tethered lamb, and distant sounds of shout- 
ing and singing. 

The next day the Pasha of 'Akka arrived. He visited 
each of the consuls, and then held a council at the castle. 
It was proposed that a force should march against Ttreh, in 
order to arrest and punish the plotters of the late attack 
on HSifa ; but it was soon made apparent that the Tlrehites 
had friends at Court and protectors in the Council. Some 
Moslems of influence in H§,ifa had personal interest in the 
prosperity of Ttreh, for they had considerable property 
there, and some of the Tlrehites were largely in their 
debt ; so, through their interference and bribes, the aflfair 
was allowed to pass by almost unnoticed, notwithstand- 
ing the strongly expressed indignation of the consuls and 
others. 

A few days afterwards, I was invited to a wedding in 
the Sakhali family. Christian Arabs of the orthodox Greek 
community. 

.At about eight o'clock a.m. I was led into their church, 
a domed building, lighted from shoye, and gaudy with 
highly-coloured, distorted copies of ancient Byzantine pic* 
tures ; for the Greeks, though not allowed to have images 
to assist them in their devotions, may have pictures, pro- 
vided they are not too life-like ! 

The body of the church, unencumbered by stalls or 
chairs, was already nearly filled with wedding guests, hold- 
ing lighted (home-made) wax tapers; one was placed in 
my hands. 

In the centre of the crowd, at a lectern, stood a priest, 
and, immediately before him, the bride, closely shrouded in 
a white izzar ; a many-coloured muslin veil entirely con- 
cealed her features. 

The bridegroom by her side, who was only seventeen, 
wore a suit of sky-blue cloth, edged with gold thread, and 
a handsome crimson and white shawl girdle : he had only 
once seen the face of the bride, and that was six months 
before, on the day of the betrothal. 

The service was in Arabic, and rapidly uttered in clear 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINK 91 

but monotonous tones: the most important part of it 
seemed to be the Gospel narrative of the marriage at Cana, 
in Galilee. While the priest was reading it, bread and 
wine were handed to the young man ; he gave some to the 
girl, who, in taking it, was very careful not to expose her 
face. 

Immediately afterwards, she held out one of her henna- 
stained hands, and a jewelled ring was placed on her finger. 
Two crowns, made of gUt foil, were brought by the bride- 
groom's-man and bride's- woman, and placed on the heads 
of the now married pair, who joined hands, and with their 
two attendants walked round and round in the midst of 
the people, who made way for them and sprinkled them 
with rose-water and other scents as they passed, singing, 
and shouting good wishes. By the time the circuit had 
been made seven times, the veils of the bride and bride's- 
woman were quite saturated, and the two men submitted, 
without the slightest resistance, to have bottles of scent 
emptied on their tarbouches. As the excitement increased, 
the sprinklmg became general, and I came in for my share. 
Thus ended the ceremony. 

While this was going on, a continual shriU screaming 
accompaniment was kept up by the female friends of the 
bride, who were crowded together in the latticed gallery 
overhead. There were very few women in the body of 
the church, and those were near relations of the bride or 
bridegroom. 

Presently the men formed a procession, and with the 
bridegroom in their midst, walked out of church. A pipe- 
bearer, carrying a handsome chibouque, was in attendance, 
and he handed it to the bridegroom whenever the leaders 
paused to dance the sword dance, or to sing some wild ex- 
travagant love-song. Eose-water was poured on his head 
&om the Toofe or windows of the houses under which he 
passed 

Etiquette required that he should look quite calm and 
composed in the midst of the noise and excitement. I was 
told by Saleh that he preserved his dignified demeanour 



92 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

throughout the day, whUe his friends and feUow-townsmen 
were feasting and making merry round him, and singing 
bridal songs. 

In the meantime, the bride, with her female attendants 
and companions, all veiled, and shrouded in white, walked 
very slowly towards her home — ^the home of her child- 
hood ; for she was not to go forth to meet the bridegroom 
till after sunset. I accompanied her. We all carried our 
tapers, although it was the third hour, i.e. about nine 
o'clock A.M. We paused now and then while one of the 
professional singing women improvised a solo, suitable for 
the occasion ; and all the women took up the words, and 
joined in chorus, as we walked on again. One verse was 
in allusion to the presence of a daughter of England at the 
wedding; it was regarded as a favourable omen. The 
chorus was a prayer for the peace and happiness of the 
English girL 

We mounted a broad, covered stone staircase, and, pass- 
ing through a corridor, entered a large, many-windowed 
room. The bride was led to a sort of throne, made of 
cushions and embroidered pillows, and I was placed by 
her side. Her white izzar and veil were taken off; she 
looked dreadfully faint and fatigued. She was not more 
than fourteen years old, with an oval face, rather large lips, 
and black, delicately arched eyebrows. Her eyes were shut ; 
for custom makes it a point of honour for a bride to keep 
them closed, from the time she leaves the church till the 
moment she meets th« bridegroom at night. She sat in 
state, in a kneeling posture, resting on her heels, while the 
palms of her hands wore placed flat on her knees, as some 
Indian deities are represented. Her head-dress was almost 
concealed by strings of pearls, festoons of small gold coins, 
diamond (or paste) rosettes, and flower-sprays; and her 
long hair, twisted with braid in nine plaits, hung down her 
back, heavy with little gold ornaments and coins. 

She wore a purple velvet jacket, very open in front,, 
showing her crape shirt and her chest, which was actually 
adorned with little bits of leaf-gold! Her necklace, or 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINH. 93 

collar of gold coins, was very beautiful ; her skirt of white 
and yellow silk almost concealed her full, yellow silk 
drawers. Her hands and arms were chequered with deep 
orange-brown henna stains; but what struck me more 
than all was the glossy, shining lustre of her skin. 

While I had been intently watching and observing the 
bride, the company of women had quite transformed them- 
selves ; they had thrown off their white izzars and veils, 
and now appeared in all the colours of the rainbow, in all 
sorts of combinations. The faces of many looked as glossy 
as the bride's. Nearly all of them had very large dark 
eyes, with the edges of the eyelids blackened with kohl. 
Their mouths were rather wide, and revealed large, very 
perfect white teeth, which glistened as the teeth of wild 
animals do. Their complexions were generally dark, but 
brilliant and clear. They came forward, one by one, to 
kiss the bride's hand ; but she remained quite passive, and 
did not answer any salutations. Dancing and singing com- 
menced : a woman kept time with a tambourine, and two 
or three dancers stood up in the centre of the room, and 
attitudinized gracefully but voluptuously ; beginning veiy 
slowly — advancing, as if reluctantly and timidly, towards 
some imaginary object — then retreating, only to advance 
again, gradually quickening both step and action. The 
lookers on sat round on the matted floor, in a double row, 
clapping their hands in harmony with the tambourine, and 
singmg wUd, passionate songs, to melodies in a minor key, 
in two-four time. As soon as one dancer was tired, another 
stood up and replaced her; and four of them worked them- 
selves up into such a state of excitement, that they looked 
as if they were dying when, at last, they gave way. Some 
of the younger girls wore white calico dresses, with small 
gold spangles sewn aU over them in clusters ; others had 
on white thin muslin skirts, over blue or red silk trousers, 
and red or black velvet jackets ; and, when they danced, 
they held in their hands embroidered shawls, which they 
waved about gracefully. Sweetmeats, fruit, creams, and 
various dishes, were served at midday. 



94 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

After sunset, the mother and female relations of the 
bridegroom came to fetch the bride ; and then she com- 
menced crying and wailing bitteriy. This is expected 
of her ; and, whether she feel regret or no, she must 
show signs of sorrow on leaving her home, and must also 
appear imwilling to go forth to meet the bridegroom. This 
real or affected reluctance is sometimes carried to such 
an extent, that the weeping bride has to be pushed 
and dragged along very ungracefully. I have witnessed 
ludicrous scenes of this kind. The veiled bride (whoser 
eyes are still supposed to be closed, but she does peep 
about a little) is generally lifted on to a horse; and though 
her new home may be only in the next street, she makes 
a tour through the town or village, riding very slowly, 
attended by a large company of women and girls, carrying 
flaming torches, and screaming and singing wildly. 

I have often lent my horse to a poor girl, that she may 
thus ride in triumph, lifted up among the crowd of torch- 
bearers, to meet her bridegroom ; and very often, just before 
midnight, I have been attracted to the window to see such 
processions pass by. 

Before the going forth of the bride, a party of men and 
women convey her trousseau by torch-light to her new 
home. A red wooden cradle and a red box are always the 
most conspicuous objects ; and sometimes a small looking- 
glass, in a gilt frame, is proudly displayed— pillows covered 
with bright-coloured silks, a trayftd of scented soap, and 
perhaps a mattress or two, and a lehaff, according to the 
rank of the bride. 

On subsequent and persevering inquiry among Arab 
ladies, I found out how it was that the bride's face 
looked so lustrous. I learnt that girls are prepared for 
marriage with a very great deal of ceremony. There are 
women who make the beautifying of brides their especial 
profession ! 

A widow woman, named Angelina, is the chief artisU in 
this department of art in Haiifa. She uses her scissors and 
tweezers freely and skilfully to remove superfluous hair. 



DOMESTIC LUTE IN PALESTINE. 95 

and trains the eyebrow to an arched line, perfecting it with 
black pigments. She prepares an adhesive plaster of very 
strong, sweet gum, and applies it by degrees all over the 
body, letting it remain od for a minute or more ; then she 
tears it off quickly, and it brings away with it all the soft 
down or hair, leaving the skin quite bare, with an un- 
naturally bright and polished appearance, much admired 
by Orientals. The face requires very careful manipula- 
tion.* When women have once submitted to this process, 
tbey look frightful, if from time to time they do not repeat 
it ; for the hair never grows so soft and fine again. Per- 
haps this is one of the. reasons why aged Arab women, who 
have quite given up all these arts of adornment, look so 
haggard and witch-like. In some instances this ordeal 
slightly irritates the skin, and perfumed sesame or olive- 
oil is applied, or cooling lotions of elder-flower water 
are used. 

The bride invites her friends to accompany her to the 
public bath previous to the wedding day, and sends to 
each one a packet of henna, two or three pieces of soap, 
and two wax candles. Angelina is generally the bearer 
of the message and of these articles, which are always 
to be paid for. I have now and then accepted such 
invitations. 

Bridal parties assemble and sometimes pass three succes- 
sive days in the luxury of the Turkish bath. Pipes, sherbet, 
coffee, and other refreshments are served, and songs are 
sung in honour of the bride, who is, of course, attended by 
Angelina, and forms the centre of attraction. Her hair is 
unbraided, she is slowly disrobed, and then, with her loins 
slightly girdled with crimson silk, she is moimted on high 
clogs, and led through halls and passages gradually in- 
creasing in temperature, with fountains overflowing their 

* Did David allude to this custom (which is evidently a very ancient 
one) when he prayed for the physical prosperity of his kingdom, and said, 
" May our daughters he cu comer stones, polished after the similUude of a 
paiacef" It is only as brides or wives that they could be recognised,^ 
comer stones, helping to build up the nation, and it is then that their 
faces are made .to shine. 



96 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

marble floors ; she is placed on a marble platform, near to 
a jet of hot water ; fullers* earth is rubbed on her head, 
she is lathered with soap, and brushed with a handful of 
tow ; then hot water is poured over her freely, she is 
swathed in long towels, and by slow degrees conducted 
back to a more moderate temperature, and lastly to a 
fountain of cool water. Her companions in the meantime 
undergo the same process. Then, shrouded in muslin, crape 
or linen, they sit together, smoking, till they are rested and 
refreshed. 

The edges of the eyelids are blackened thus : — a little 
instrument, like a silver bodkin, is- dipped in water, and 
then into a bottle or box containing an impalpable powder 
called hohl, made of antimony and carefully prepared soot; 
the blackened point is drawn gently along between the 
almost closed lids of the eyes. Poor people use soot alone, 
and apply it with pins made of lignum vitse.* 

The arms and hands, legs and feet, are bandaged with 
narrow tape or braid, like sandals, crossing and re-crossing 
each other ; then a paste made of moistened henna powder 
(the pulverised leaves of the henna tree — LawBonia) is 
spread and bound over them, and allowed to remain on 
for several hours. When it is removed, the skin is 
found deeply dyed wherever the tape (which is now un- 
wound) did not protect it; thus a sort of chequered pattern 
is produced, and when it is artistically and delicately done 
(as Angelina can do it), the feet look, at a distance, as if 
they were sandalled, and the hands, as if they were covered 
with mittens of a bright orange or bronze colour. 

Finally, early on the wedding-day, the bride is dressed 
in her bridal robes ; her hair is braided (in what we call 

• This process is probably referred to by Ezekiel xxiii. 40. " Ye have 
sent for men to come from far ; for whom thou didst wash thyself, paintedst 
thy eyeSf and deckedst thyself with ornaments." And it is written that 
Jezebel " painted her eyes," or " put her eyes in painting." And Jeremiah 
says in the fourth chapter and thirtieth verse, " Though thou deckest thee 
with ornaments of gold ; though thou rentest thy face (or as it should be 
written, thint eyes) with painting, in vain shalt thou make thyself fair/' &a 
So we may regard the use of kohl as a very ancient custom. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE, 97 

the Grecian plait), small pieces of leaf-gold are stuck on 
her forehead and on Ijer breast ; care is taken not to con- 
ceal any of the stars or spots tattooed on her face or chest 
in infancy ; a line of blue dots encircling the lips is some- 
times seen, and a spot on the chin is very common. A 
little rouge is added to heighten the colour of the cheeks 
when considered necessary. 

Angelina gets in sad disgrace with the clergy of Haifa, 
for encouraging all this vanity (out of which she by-the- 
by makes a good living), and she goes from one church 
to another for absolution, sometimes reckoning herself a 
Greek, and sometimes a Latin, and sometimes a Melchite, 
according to the leniency of the respective priests. 

The Arab women are very much wedded to the ancient 
customs of the country, and they will not abandon them 
notwithstanding the persevering efforts of the priesthood. 

The Greek Catholic Church vainly pronounces ana- 
themas, and threatens with excommunication those women 
who tattoo themselves, and use kohl, and henna, and rouge ; 
they will persist in it while they believe it adds to their 
beauty, and to their powers of attraction, and in vain the 
noisy processions at weddings and at burials are forbidden, 
so long as the people believe them to be propitioua Their 
respect for custom is stronger even than their fear of the 
Church, and if the priests persisted in carrying out their 
threats of excommunication for such offences, their congre- 
gations would soon be scattered ; so they are lenient, and 
thus Greek and Eoman forms of Christianity are blended 
insensibly with ceremonies and practices so ancient that 
their origin even is unknown. 

This is not the only difficulty which the priests find to 
contend with in the pastoral care of Arab women. 

In 1859 a number of black silk mittens were sold in 
H^a by a pedlar from Beirut. They were a novelty to 
the Arab women, who were quite proud of this addition 
to their toilette, and displayed their mittened hands 
delightedly in church. The priest of the Greek Catholic 
community actually denounced them from the altar, for- 



98 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

bidding the adoption of gloves, mittens, or any new and 
expensive luxury in their dress, and cautioned them also 
against exposing any part of their ornamental head-dresses 
in church ! 

I had a very interesting conversation a few days after- 
wards with the utterer of this denunciation, and he 
explained to me his reason for this seemingly strange inter«> 
ference about the mittens. He said he considered it very 
important to check, if possible, the inroad of Frank taste 
among the Arab women ; for, if they were to adopt the 
Frank dress, which requires many changes of apparel, and 
alters its fashions frequently, a trotisseau would be so 
expensive that young men would not be able to marry, and 
early unions, which are so desirable in the East, would be 
prevented The costly articles of a genuine Arab ward- 
robe last a lifetime, and are heirlooms, whei^^as the gala 
dresses of a Frank wardrobe must be renewed every year. 
This priest spoke feelingly, for he was an Arab, a husband, 
and the father of a large family of girls. It is quite clear 
that in matters of fashion and custom, the priests have very 
little influence ; but in towns where the Arabs have much 
intercourse with Europeans, they gradually adopt some of 
their manners, and imitate their costumes, by degrees 
abandoning their own. 

On the 1st of October the victories in the Crimea were 
announced and celebrated in 'Akka; five times during 
the day, twenty-one guns were fired, and at night the town 
was illuminated, and bonfires were made on the hills which 
encircle the bay. In H4ifa a great portion of the lately 
acquired supply of ammunition was used iafeux dejoie, the 
minaret and the consulates were lighted up, and we bor- 
rowed lamps from the Jewish synagogue to deck the 
English flagstaff! 

At night the place was very animated We went out 
with Saleh Sakhali, and Mohammed Bek, a distinguished 
looking handsome Moslem, and two or three of his friends. 
Ylisef led the way, with " a lantern for our feet." It 
threw light now and then on such muddy pools, guttered 



DOMESTIC UFE IN PAliESTIKE. 99 

streets, and heaps of vegetable refuse, that it was quite indis- 
pensable. We made our way to the narrow, ill-constructed 
but well-supplied bazaar, which is generally deserted at 
sunset, but that night the shops were all open ; pipes, red 
and yellow shoes and boots, embroidered slippers, Man- 
chester prints, Damascus silks, purple linen, shawls, jars, 
lamps and cooking utensils, fruit, sweetmeats, and samples 
of grain, were exposed by the light of a hundred lanterns, 
and groups of Arabs in their f!te day dresses were on all 
the counters ; and in the open ca^ and barbers' shops, story- 
tellers and singers attracted earnest listeners. Showers of 
sugar-plums were thrown from one side of the place to the 
other, and boys were busy scrambling for them. 

Mohammed Bek and Saleh and a few Arab friends spent 
the evening with us: one of them inquired what kind 
of stories of romances English people liked. 

We had recently read "Jane Eyre," so my brother began 
translating it to them, au courant, somewhat condensing 
it, and adapting it to Arab comprehension. The listeners 
were so interested that they came several successive nights 
for an hour or two to hear it to the end. I mention this 
because two years afterwards, when travelling in the inte- 
rior, we heard this story, somewhat altered and modified, but 
well told, by an Arab who did not know its source : we 
soon traced it to some of our guests of that night. Perhaps 
some future collector of Arabian tales may be puzzled by 
hearing the Oriental version of this very unortental romance, 
and may fancy he has found the origin of the plot of " Jane 
Eyre," and rob the little imaginative recluse of Yorkshire of 
the credit of her wonderful power and originality. 

^sop's fables, freely translated in the same way, with 
the help of iUustrations, gave great pleasure to our Arab 
friends ; our maps puzzled them, and excited their interest 
and curiosity, and they had faith in them, when they 
found that by the assistance of a map of Palestine, I, a 
stranger, could tell the names and directions of most of the 
towns and villages for nules around. 

The Moslem guests y^eie at first rather shy, and hardly 

h2 



loo DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

ventured to address me, for they are not in the habit of 
seeing any women except their wives, slaves, and servants, 
and they never see any Christian women. 

I had been advised to avoid meeting my brother's 
Moslem guests, for the sole reason that they seclude their 
' female relatives, but we did not wish to imitate Oriental 
exclusiveness unnecessarily, and I found much to interest 
me in my intercourse with them ; they always behaved to 
me with respectful and chivalrous kindness. 

The Levantine ladies (who hide themselves from Moslems 
almost as scrupulously as the native Arabs do) were rather 
surprised, and they explained to me that it was quite con- 
trary to custom, for Moslems to see females out of their 
own families, and that the laws of their religion forbade 
them to do so. 

I took the first opportunity to make inquiry on the 
subject, and when two or three of the most intell^ent and 
learned of our Moslem friends were assembled one evening 
at our house, I told them I had an important question to 
ask them. I first reminded them that neither the customs 
of my country, nor the voice of my conscience, forbade me 
to see any of my fellow-creatures. On the contrary, I was 
taught to love every one, knowing that we are all of one 
family, the children of one God, and created by his wUl. 
Then I said, " Is there any law (which you regard as sacred 
and binding) forbidding you to see and converse with 
women out of your own individual families? If there is 
such a law, I wUl not cause you to disobey it, but will help 
you to keep it, by hiding myself from you." 

They seemed to be taken by surprise, but they clearly 
explained and proved to me that there is no law of the 
kind, and it is the law of custom only which immures 
the women in their harims. Mohammed Bek said that 
their women are now quite unfitted for society, and would 
not know how to conduct themselves in the presence of 
strangers. •'If we gave them liberty, they would not 
know how to use it. Their heads are made of wood. They 
are not like you, When you speak, we no longer remember 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 101 

that you are a girl : we think we are listening to a sheik. 
To live in the world knowledge and wisdom are necessary. 
Our wives and daughters have neither wisdom nor know- 
ledge. Give them wisdom, and we will give them liberty." 

Satisfied on this point, I continued to see them, and I 
never had reason to regret it I think I gave them some 
new ideas on the capabilities and capacities of women, 
which may in time be turned to account. 

Yassin Agha, one of our most frequent guests, invited 
me to visit his family. I went with my brother. We were 
first received in a large vaulted room by the Agha and his 
sons and a few Moslem gentlemen, then the eldest son was 
desired to conduct me to the harim, that part of the house 
especially occupied by women. He led me across a court, 
and up an open stairway, into a large, handsome room 
paved with marble, where a group of women waited to 
welcome me. He introduced me to his grandmother, an 
aged-looking women, almost blind, and to his own mother, 
and then he left me. They wore jackets and full trowsers 
made of common print They led me into an inner apart- 
ment, where a younger wife of the Agha, gaily decked with 
embroidery, jewellery, and flowers, was seated with a number 
of children, slaves, and servants (the latter seemed to 
occupy almost the same position in the establishment as 
their mistresses, but some of them were very dirty, untidy, 
and ragged). In an open brazier in the middle of this 
room a charcoal fire was burning, and a little child sick 
with fever was on a mattress in the comer. The air was 
dry and hot, and I found it difScult to breathe, especially 
when they all crowded round me. My dress was examined 
with curiosity, and if I had not gently but firmly resisted, 
I think I should have been disrobed, so eager were they to 
see how my clothes were made and fastened. They patted 
me, stroked my hair, and called me all sorts of pet names ; 
they asked me if I were betrothed, and whether my brother 
had a harim, and if he were fair and handsome. When I 
took off my light kid gloves, one of the children began to 
ciy, saying, "Behold, see, the stranger is skinning her 



«> 



1Q2 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

hands." Lemonade and sweetmeats were handed to me, 
and cofiPee was prepared by a black slave, who crouched 
down by the charcoal fire. Narghiles and long pipes were 
passed from one to another ; the one which I smoked had 
a very beautiful jewelled mouthpiece, sent up by the Agha 
for my use. I explained to them I had learnt to smoke in 
their country, and that in England ladies do not smoke. 
They took me into a room well stocked with lehaflfs and 
mattresses, some of which were covered with silk. They 
asked if I could work, and were surprised when I an- 
swered I could make all my clothes. They told me that 
nearly all their dresses were made by tailors, and that their 
mattresses, lehafiPs, and divans were covered and made by 
upholsterers, so that they did very little needlework them- 
selves. The eldest son, wha had been my guide, came to 
fetch me, and took me into a smaU but lofty room, with 
palm fronds at least twelve feet long in each comer, and 
dates hanging up in rich clusters from the rafters. 

I called afterwards on Mohammed Bek ; he only had one 
wife, a pleasant young woman, who, with her infant 
daughter, were under the especial duennaship of the Bek's 
mother, one of the most dignified-looking Arab women I 
ever saw. 

The young wife, Miriam, was dressed in a dark cloth 
jacket and pink cotton trowsers. She was very much 
tattooed ; a row of blue dots round Jier large thick lips, a 
star on her forehead, and a Kttle crescent on her chin. Her 
eyebrows were strongly marked, and her lashes very long. 
At her side, in her girdle, she had a gold crescent-shaped 
box or case, embossed and chased ; it contained an inscrip- 
tion in Arabic characters, and she regarded it as a potent 
charm. 

Her little child had on a green silk skull cap, to which 
were fastened coins, strings of pearls, and a blue bead to 
avert the effect of the glance of an "evil eye." Broad 
bands of silver, with tinkling bells attached to them, were 
fastened round her ankles, and she pattered about on the 
matted floor with her little naked feet to make them ring. 



.DOMESTIC LIFE Cf PALESTINE. 103 

She had on a tight green silk jacket, and short full Turkish 
trowsers, and a small red shawl for a girdle. 

I liked these people very much, and often went to see 
them. One day when I called (about two years after my 
first visit) Miriam' told me that she feared her husband was 
looking out for another wife ; some Moslem ladies, who had 
heard the rumour at the Turkish baths, had told her. She 
said, "I have lived iox four years with the Bek and his 
mother, and I have been very happy, but I shall be happy 
no longer if he brings home a new bride ; she will take his 
soul from me. Speak to him, oh, my sister, that he may 
not take another wife ; he will listen to you, for your words 
are pearls and diamonds/* 

I ascertained afterwards that the report was true, for 
Mohammed was negotiating a marriage with a girl of a 
tribe of the Metwalis ; this was, however, soon afterwards 
broken off, for the family or clan to which the Bek belonged 
became involved in a feud with the Metwalis, consequently 
the marriage could not take place. Mohammed had never 
seen the lady, so he was easily consoled, and Miriam 
rejoiced exceedingly. 

In a third harim which I visited I found four wives, who 
seemed to live very contentedly together ; they were kindly 
treated and very much indulged, and were often allowed to 
go (well guarded) to the Turkish baths, and to visit other 
harims. 

Their husband, Sheik Abdallah, always had in his estab- 
lishment the full allowance of four wives, and when one 
died the vacancy was soon filled. Though still in the prime 
of life, he had already had seven wives. I ascertained by 
degrees from them that they held supremacy in turn, for 
the space of a few days or a week, and the honoured one 
was said to be " holder of the heysy' for during her tempo- 
rary sway she is always in full dress, the mistress of the 
reception-room, and the favoured one of the lord of the 
harim, while the rest attend to the cooking and household 
matters. This family seemed to be very well regulated, 
and I never saw any signs of ill-feeling between the wives. 



104 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE 

although the youngest and prettiest had no children, while 
the eldest, a lady of Nabulus, had three sons, and the two 
others, who came respectively from Saida and Damascus, 
had each a son and daughter. 

The sheik always sought for wives in various and far 
distant towns. After marriage the women rarely if ever came 
in contact with their relatives ; thus, having no connexions 
in H&ifa, they naturally sympathized with each other as 
strangers in a strange place. There were no old quarrels 
or jealousies to revive ; on the contrary, there must have 
been subjects of novelty and interest to communicate, and 
perhaps this was one of the reasons why Abdallah*s harim 
was more homelike and harmonious than any other 
which I visited.* 

The chief room is long and narrow, with unglazed wooden 
latticed windows on three sides of it ; a raised divan at one 
end, and narrow carpeted and cushioned mattresses on the 
floor close to the walls. 

I had known this family about three years, when one 
day as I sat in thai; loom,^ surrounded by the four wives, 
their children, and slaves, the sheik himseK was suddenly 
announced. All rose up at his coming. He took his seat 
by my side on the divan. None of the women ventured to 
sit in his presence until he invited them to do so. 

They all vied with each other to serve him : one placed 
a pillow for him cosily, another handed him sherbet, and 

* It Beems to me that Sheik Abdallah thus carried out, in its most 
extreme sense, the spirit of the injunction of Moses, not to take a woman* 8 



f» 



sister to tnfe ** to vex her in her life-time* 

Abdallah would not even run the risk of marrying any two members of 
one family, or even two girls from the same town or village ; he was shrewd 
and clever, and understood the disadvantages of such unions. When Moses 
gave the above law he was legislating for a people who, like the Moslems, prac- 
I tised polygamy and recognized it as lawful. He in his wisdom may not have 

approved of it, but he tried to mitigate its evils, and make the best of it ; 
he had no doubt often witnesed (as I have done) the quarrels, disputes, aud 
jealousies which arise in harims where the several wives of one man are 
nearly related to each other. The more remote the connexion or relation- 
ship among the women in a harim, the more chance there appears to be of 
peace within its walls. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINl^. 105 

the favoured one had the especial privilege of preparing 
and lighting his pipe. He spoke very gently and kindly to 
them all, and fondled his children lovingly. He was in 
indoor costume, and wore a long gown, called a kftmbaz, 
made of white goat's hair, striped with white spun silk, 
and over it a bright blue cloth pelisse, edged with fiu*, a 
very large white muslin turban, and yellow pointed slippers, 
without stockings. 

I asked him if he had any books : so he despatched one of 
his little sons, with orders to bring to me all that were in 
the house ; and soon a slave came with a pile of dusty folios, 
consisting of MS. copies of the Koran illuminated pro- 
fusely, books of medicine and magic ; but the favourite 
volume was brought by one of the wives. It was a thick, 
clumsy-looking quarto, and consisted of careful and de- 
tailed interpretations of dreams and omens of all kinds ; 
in fact, it was a MS. divination dictionary. The subjects 
were arranged in alphabetical order, beautifully written in 
large red letters, and the explanations were in black ink : 
the paper was so thick, yellow, and glossy, that I at first 
mistook it for vellum. As the sheik turned over the leaves 
of this book, he said, " Lady, what was the dream of your 
last sleep V I reflected an instant, and answered, " I was 
walking by the sea-shore, near the river Kishon, and was 
very tired, when suddenly a white horse, ready saddled, rose 
and stood before me, as if offering his services, so I mounted 
and rode on as if I were flying till I awoke." The women 
cried out, " It is a good dream ! " and the sheik looked in 
the dictionary for the words "white horse," and "sea- 
shore," and, after some consideration, assured me that my 
dream was a very good one, and that though great dangers 
surrounded me, I should certainly escape from them. None 
of the women could read a single letter ; but if anything 
could induce them to learn, I think it would be their 
desire to read that book, every line of which they listened 
to most eagerly. 

A tray of sweetmeats, nuts, fruit, and other dishes, was 
brought in : the sheik ate with me, and then retired, for 



106 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

none of the women would eat in his presence. I never 
saw an instance of an Arab woman eating with men, 
except' in families which had been strongly influenced 
by European society. 

These ladies were all very clever in making preserves, 
marmalade, and sweetmeats, and in preparing meat dishes, 
and seemed to be very devoted mothers. The children 
looked happy, and the elder sons were fine intelligent 
youths. 

In spite of the good-natured cheerfulness of the women, 
I felt there was something wanting: only the material 
part of their nature was developed, and developed so dis- 
proportionately, that the Moslems were right when they 
said, that in their present state they are unfit for general 
society. 

In some of the harims the women live very unhappily, 
and are only like spies on each other. In some cases men 
who have two wives are obliged also to have two homes, 
that peace may be ensured. The majority of Moslems do 
not practise polygamy. 

Disagreements frequently arise from jealousy about off- 
spring : the wife who has only daughters looks with hatred 
and envy on the mother rejoicing over an infant boy ; and 
I can fully realize the passionate despair of Hannah when 
provoked by Peninnah, and the muttered prayer and ex- 
citement which Eli mistook for the frenzy of drunkenness ; 
and I can fancy I hear her at last triumphing and exult- 
ing over her son Samuel, in words of praise and prayer, 
inspired by the strongest feeKngs of her nature. 

I expected to find very large families in those houses 
where there were two or more wives ; but, as a rule, this 
was not the case ; and in the Jewish and Christian quar- 
ters the children are much more numerous than in the 
Moslem quarters. The Jews in Syria are permitted to 
take ^ second wife, if the first has no hope of having any 
children. 
Early in October, on a pleasant afternoon, I went with 
V brother into one of the fruit-gardens just outside 



POMESTIO LIFE IN PALESTINE. 107 

EHU&L We cautiously made our way, one by one, down 
a short narrow lane of prickly pears, and passed a little 
mud and stone hut, the dwelling of the gardener and his 
family : they were Egyptians (who are considered much 
more skilful than Arabs in the cultivation of the ground). 
Fig-trees, pomegranates, almonds, elders, olives, pahns, 
lemons, shaddocks (or, as they are called in Arabic, " le- 
miin helft," sweet lemons), and cucumbers of many kinds, 
flourished under his care. However, as everything is sold 
in the market according to a tariff regulated by the govern- 
ment, there is very L'ttle motive or inducement for emula- 
tion among gardeners, and no attempt is made to improve 
and perfect the delicious fruits and valuable vegetables of 
the country, — quantity, without regard to quality, is the 
consideration of the Oriental cultivator. 

Under an olive-tree, in the middle of the garden, on an 
old piece of matting, sat an aged Arab woman, her ragged 
white linen head-dress arranged so as to shade her eyes, 
which were afficted with ophthalinia; her cotton dress 
was patched over and over again, and a heavy striped abbai, 
or travelling cloak, was thrown over her feet. She was 
latently mumbUng to herself, and slipping the beads of a 
black rosary rapidly through her long thin fingers. Near 
to her was a little nook made of piled-up stones and earth, 
and covered with old matting : it was not much bigger 
than the hood of a bassinette, but it was evidently in- 
tended to shelter her head at night, for a roUed-up mattress 
and some heavy wadded quilts were close to it. Old 
clothes were hanging on the tree above her, not for the 
sake of drying them, but the branch was her clothes-peg, 
and the tree her wardrobe. Two basins were behind the 
tree trunk, and the remains of a wood fire between two 
blocks of stone : this was her kitchen. We greeted her 
with " Peace be upon you" but she gave us only gloomy 
answers, saying, " For me there is no jmice" and still con- 
tinued fingering her beads, without raising her head. She 
said an " evil eye " had looked upon her, and " destroyed 
the power" of her life. A pleasant sound of faUing water 



108 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTIKB. 

attracted us up to the large square raised stoDe reservoir, 
round which, seated on a low parapet, a party of Arabs were 
smoking and chatting. Water was falling with some force 
into this pool, from a duct supplied by large earthenware 
jars, fixed with ropes, made of palm-fibre, to a large wheel, 
which was kept in motion by a blindfolded mule, and as 
it turned round it dipped into a well, and the jars were 
filled with water, and in rising up again they emptied 
themselves into the duct, and so on again and again, as 
long as the mule kept up its monotonous round, urged on 
by a little barefooted boy, stick in hand. A hole in the 
lower part of the wall of the reservoir was every day un- 
plugged for a certain time, and the water allowed to flow 
into the little channels or furrows which traversed the 
beds of vegetables and encircled the trees. 

As we left the garden, a donkey, laden with the red 
sheUs or rinds of pomegranates, passed us. I was sur- 
prised to learn that the bright yellow dye used to stain 
leather is prepared from them. 

We were walking towards the sands, through the burial 
ground : the sun had set. We had left behind us at some 
distance aU the evening loungers about the town-gate, and 
all the smokers by the well-side and the garden, when we 
saw advancing towards us, in the twilight, a powerful- 
looking black man, girdled with sackcloth, carrying a staff, 
or rather the trunk of a slender tree, which still retained 
two or three of its forked branches. The man was tall, 
but his staff was high above him : he walked with an 
unsteady gait, and we soon recognised him as an African 
maniac, of whom some of the Europeans of Hfiifa had 
complained to the governor, because he walked in the 
streets quite naked : in consequence of this he had been 
turned out of town. We passed him, and then he followed 
close behind us, muttering and making strange noises. It 
was not very pleasant to have such an attendant. We 
turned sharply round and faced him, and then walked 
towards the town : he turned also, and preceded us. We 
were still among the tombs ; and, in the rapidly-increasing 



DOBIESTIC UFE IN PALESTINE. 109 

darkness, it appeared the dreariest place imaginable,- 
rocky and desolate, with tombs of all periods, some in the 
last stages of decay, falling and crumbling into strange 
shapes and heaps, others partially concealed by small dark 
evergreen oaks, and here and there was a newly-whitened 
sepulchre, which seemed to shine with a light of its own. 
The black man did not accompany us beyond this domain 
of death ; and when I looked back, and saw him standing 
there among the tombs, swaying himself and his sceptre 
to and fro, I could not help thinking of the description, 
in the gospel narrative, of that man who met Christ on 
the shores of the Sea of Galilee, and ^^ which had devils 
long timCf and ware no clothes, neither ahode in any 
house^ hut in the tombs"* I did not suppose the poor 
African maniac was possessed of devils, but I thought he 
might very likely be seized with the spirit of revenge ; so 
I was glad to be out of his reach, and safe vnthin the 
gates of the town. 

* Luke viii. 27. 



CHAPTEE VI. 

ON Saturday, October IStli, we made ready for a trip 
to Nazareth (N&sirah), to meet Mr. Finn there ; we 
started at about three o'clock in the afternoon, accompanied 
by our friend Saleh Sakhali, one kawass, and an Egyptian 
groom. 

We went out at the east gate, crossed the burial ground, 
approached the Carmel range, and skirted the base of the 
hills, which are overgrown with low brushwood and ever- 
green oaks ; we took a south-easterly direction, with the 
terraced slopes on our right hand, and a marshy plain on 
our left, all bright with lush green grass, tall rushes, and 
reeds in full blossom. 

We met strings of camels bringing grain from the Haurfin, 
for the merchants in Hdifa and 'Akka ; the peasants and 
camel-drivers were all fiilly armed, and seemed as ready for 
attack as for defence. 

Presently we passed a more peacefiil looking party, con- 
sisting of a family belonging to the next village, — ^first 
came a young girl, wearing a rather short open dress of 
old striped crimson silk, made like a very scanty dressing- 
gown, a long white shirt of very coarse heavy linen, and 
a shawl girdle fastened low ; a purple scarf sheltered her 
head and face (all but her large dark eyes), and fell over 
her shoulders ; she walked barefoot, and carried her yellow 
shoes in her hands. A woman with an infant son in her 
arms followed, riding on a large white donkey, which was 
urged on by a man who walked close behind ; we exchanged 
greetings, and the strangers said to us, " May Allah lead 
you in the path that is straight." In about forty minutes, 
we reached the spring of Sa'adeh which supplies one of 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. Ill 

the tributary streams of the Kishon ; it gushes out of a deep 
cavernous recess in the steep cliff, and forms a large spread- 
ing natural reservoir, where many kinds of ferns are fostered. 
Saleh told me that Arab poets call a stream " a daughter of 
the hiJls/* — ^he led the way where he knew there were firm 
stepping stones, and we splashed through water, in some 
parts about two feet deep, guiding our horses between 
masses of rock and great stone boulders, surrounded by tall 
reeds and water plants; our progress was somewhat im- 
peded by a number of goats and cattle, which were being 
led to the fountain. 

Just beyond this we saw, high up on the hills on our 
right, a picturesque-looking Moslem village, called Kefr- 
esh-Sheik ; on the flat roofs of its white stone huts there 
were little summer-houses, made of tree branches, long palm 
fronds, and reeds ; most of the villagers in this district 
make these pleasant shelters in the summer time ; it re- 
minded me of the Jewish Feast of Tabernacles. 

Busy groups were on the threshing floors ; ai man was 
winnowing a heap of wheat, by lifting up as much as he 
could at a time, and as he let it fall gradually, the wind 
carried away the chaff; we lingered a moment by the old 
stone well in .the oUve grove, near to it we saw a number 
of strong masculine-looking laughing girls ; in a few 
minutes we came to the little village of Ain-jftr, with palm- 
trees and flouriishing gardens round it; at this point we 
turned away from the hills, and made our way across the 
fertile plain. A serpentine line of verdure marks the course 
of the Kishon ; we approached it where it flows between 
steep banks of rich loamy soil, nearly fifteen feet high, 
bordered with fine oleanders, wild lupins, tall and blue, and 
St. John's wort, covered with golden flowers. There was 
not much water flowing, for there had not been any rain in 
Galilee for a long time, but the muddy bed, which at this 
spot is about twenty feet broad, seeined to me as if it 
would swallow us up.* 

I have seen this stream swollen and rapid, after heavy 

* This river is called by the Arabs el-Mukutta', t. e, the Ford, 



112 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINB. 

rains, when the winter torrents of Galilee and Carmel flow 
into it; then it is a river "with waters to swim in, a 
river that cannot be passed over ; " and I can well imagine 
the hosts of Sisera, his chariots and horses, struggling there ; 
and how " the river Kishon swept them away, that ancient 
river, the river Kishon." (Judges v. 21.) We crossed safely, 
and rode on, due east, to traverse some rounded hills, 
crowned with evergreen oaks, hawthorns, and seringas (I 
have seen them in the spring-time full of blossom, when 
the ground which they shelter is carpeted with hyacinths, 
cyclamen, anemones, and narcissus). This is one of the 
most extensive oak woods in Galilee, the oak leaves are 
small and prickly, and the acorns large and long. 

Here cheetahs are sometimes captured or killed (for the 
sake of their skins, which are made into saddle-cloths), 
foxes have their holes, and hyenas, cats, jackals, and wild 
boars abound; the town Arabs are by no means enthusiastic 
hunters ; a Nimrod is rarely met with now, except among 
the European colonists. 

In a little open glade we dismounted, and rested just 
outside the solitary tent of a peasant, while we took some 
refreshing fruit, then we h^tened on again ; these hills are 
renowned for echoes, which are called by Arabs, "the 
da'ughtera of sound;" my companions brought them forth, 
by firing their guns and shouting, and they made the forest 
ring with their songs ; at its eastern extremity the trees 
grow so closely together, and the branches hang so low, 
that I had to ride cautiously, to avoid sharing the fate of 
Absolom ; when we came out of the wood, we found our- 
selves on the brow of a high steep and terraced declivity ; 
the smooth plain of Esdraelon Minor was immediately below 
us, one half of it shaded by the hills on which we stood, 
and the other half, as weU as the opposite hills, were in 
bright sunlight. The little village of Nain was pointed out 
to me far away on the right. 

We descended by a pleasant winding road, the trees were 
more and more scattered, and at the foot of the hill, only 
low brushwood grew. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 113 

We cantered across the plain, and ascended a low 
rounded hiU, on which stood a village, literally formed of 
dust and ashes ; the mud hovels looked like dust-heaps, 
and their interiors were little better than dust-holes ; but 
out of these abodes heaps of clothing crawled, scarcely look- 
ing like human beings, till they slowly rose, assuming forms 
of strange grace and dignity, and gazed at us with serious and 
untroubled eyes. We saw a group of old women leaning 
over a square hole dug in the ground ; Saleh told me this 
was the village oven. The bottom of it glowed with red 
heat; the fuel, composed of peat and dried dung,* was 
partially covered with stones, upon which thin flat loaves 
are thrown and quickly baked. When quite new, the bread 
thus prepared is crisp outside and rather soft within ; but 
when a day old, it is of the consistency of leather, and 
very indigestive. The women in their dusky veils and 
dresses, crouching round that primitive oven, reminded me 
of the incantation scene in "Macbeth." 

The children of the place were beautiful, though bronzed 
by the sun, and smeared with dust and dirt ; some were 
clothed in rags of aU colours, but the majority were quite 
naked. 

We looked back across the plain — the sun had gone dowii 
behind the wooded hiUs, and red watch-fires gleamed here 
and there on the terraces and in the plain, guides and 
beacons for the shepherds and ih^fellahtn. Presently a 
party of wild-looking Arabs met us ; their leader was the 
son of a cavalry officer, who had just been dismissed from 
Turkish service. He and his followers were desperate fellows, 
noted for deeds of daring. They saluted us, and said they 
had come on purpose to meet and escort us to Nazareth ; 
this was quite an impromptu invention, for no one but 
Mr. Finn knew of our intention to go to Nazareth ; how- 
ever, they turned and accompanied us. They looked very 
picturesque ; their large heavy cloaks were made of camel- 
hah*, with broad brown and white stripes ; on their heads 

* See Ezekiel iv. 15. '* Lo I I have given theQ cow*s dvmgi ^d th(n( 
dialt prepate thy bread therewith." 

I 



114 ;D0ME8TIC life in FALESTTITI!. 

they wore red and yellow kefias (fringed shawls), put on 
like hoods, and fastened round the crown with double ropes 
made of camel's hair ; their spears, adorned with ostrich 
feathers, were twelve or thirteen feet long. 

We paused at a spring, festooned with fems, and bordered 
with mossy stones, and alighted for a few minutes to 
water our horses. When Saleh was on the point of re- 
mounting, his mare suddenly started off, and soon dis- 
appeared in the dusky distance. Saleh was quite discon- 
certed, for the animal was a favourite one, and so docile 
that it was never considered necessary to tether her ; she 
was accustomed to follow her master, and to obey his call 
like a dog; but in a moment he remembered that the 
village of which his mare was a native was about a quarter 
of an hour's distance from the spring, and this explained 
the cause of the flight. He immediately mounted a horse 
belonging to one of the Arabs, and galloped away. He 
actually found his mare standing quietly in the court of the 
house in which she had been born, surrounded by her former 
owners, who were marvelling greatly. 

Saleh rejoined us, and we soon entered the hill-country 
which encircles Nazareth. Our volunteer attendants rode 
now before and now behind, singing and shouting. Higher 
and higher we rose, meeting the fresh mountain air. It was 
so dark that I could only just perceive the figure imme- 
diately before me, and the loose white stones which clattered 
under my horse's feet, and the smooth slabs of rock over 
which he every now and then slipped and stumbled. 

For about an hour I rode on silently, hardly knowing 
where I was going, but following in faith the steps of my 
leader. I was roused from a reverie by the words : " We 
are entering the olive-groves of NazaretL" I could just 
distinguish a range of lulls, forming an amphitheatre in the 
shape of a horseshoe^ and the extent of the town could be 
traced by the lights gleaming from the windows of the 
houses which thickly dotted the valley below, and were 
grouped here and there on the hillsides. The Arabs keep 
lamps burning in their rooms all night to chase away evil 



DOMESTIC MFB IN PALESTINE. 115 

spirits. We descended abruptly between hedges of prickly- 
pears, greeted by loudly barking dogs, and inhaling a close 
sufifocating odour of dust and decayed vegetables. The 
words, " Hold your horse's head well up, for it is very steep 
here," prepared me now and then for a jerk down some 
rocky ledge or dusty declivity. At last we were safe in the 
valley, our escort disappeared, and we were led to the 
roomy but half-deserted house of Saleh, where* he had 
resided until the death of his father, a few months previous, 
and where his brother and young sisters still lived. Two 
empty rooms were soon swept and garnished by men 
and boys, who brought a supply of matting, mattresses, 
cushions, and pillows from another part of the house, and 
we made ourselves at home. While we took supper, Saleh 
told me that his father, the head of a large family, had, 
during his lifetime, accumulated aoonsiderable sum of money,, 
which he kept in a secret place, probably buried. It was 
expected that he would some day tell his heirs where the 
treasure was concealed, but unhappily he was on a journey 
from Tiberias, " when the Angel of Death met him." He 
was surrounded only by servants and strangers, to whom 
he could not entrust the important communication, and 
there was no time to send for his sons, so he died, and the 
secret died with him. Saleh, the eldest son, caused carefid 
search to be made in and under the premises, but up to this 
time the property has not been ifound. 

It is a very common practice, especially in the interior, to 
secrete jewels and gold in this way, and ancient deposits of 
great intrinsic value (and still greater interest as works of 
art and iUnstrations of history) are sometimes found. 

The law of treasure-trove in Palestine, I believe, awards 
one-third to the finder, one-third to the owner of the ground 
on which the property is found, and one-third to the 
Grovemment. 

There are certain men who spend nearly aU their lives 
in seeking for (kanHz) hidden treasures. Some of them 
hecome maniacs, desert their families, and though they are 
often so poor that they beg tfieir way from door to door, 

I 2 



116 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

and from village to village, they believe themselves to be 
rich. There are others, who are called ^'saJiiri'' — necro- 
mancers — ^who seem to work systematically, and have a 
very curious method of prosecuting the search. 

They select certain sensitive individuals, who are believed 
to have the power of sieeing objects concealed in the earth, 
or elsewhere ; but the faculty is only active when roused by 
the influence of necromantic ceremonies, which are under- 
stood by the professional treasure-seeker. He properly 
prepares the medium, and calls into full activity the 
visionary power ; then, in obedience to his command, the 
hiding-places of treasures are said to be minutely described. 
On being restored to the normal state, the medium does 
not remember any of the revelations which may have been 
made. , The practice of this art is considered ** haram" — 
t.e. unlawfaly and is carried on secretly and not extensively. 
Those people of whom I made inquiries on the subject 
spoke with fear and trembling, and mysteriously whispered 
their explanations. 

I knew an Arab family, of which all the female members 
are believed to be seers (clairvoyants ?) ; they are all 
nervous and excitable to a high degree, and one of them 
is slightly deranged in intellect.* 

Until a late hour visitors flocked in to see us, for our 
arrival was soon known throughout the Christian quarter. 

* Does this system of the Sdhiri throw any light on the history of the 
"Zahuris" of Spain, who were said to have the power of seeing into the 
recesses of the earth ? The name is evidently of Eastern derivation, for 
** Zahur" is the Arabic for appeoflring. 

In the 1st vol. of " The Cradle of the Twin Giants, Science and History," 
hy the Bev. Henry Christmas, page 344, the following passages occur : — 

^Debrio, in his ' Disquisitiones Magicae,' edition of Mayence, 1606, 
says there is a class of men in Spain who are called Zahuris. When he 
was staying at Madrid, in 1575, a boy of that kind was there; these 
persons were said to be able to spy out what was concealed in the earth, 
subterraneous waters, metals, hidden treasure, or dead bodies. The thing 
was generally known, and its possibility believed in, not only by poets but 
by philoaophers.*' 

" We quote the following, concerning a lady, from the Mercure de France, 
of 1728. 'She perceives what is hid in the earth, distinguishing stones, 
.sand, springs, to the dept)i of thirty or forty /athoms.* " 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 117 

Fitst came Jirius el Yakftb, with his fat, burly figure, his 
crisp grey beard and twinkling eyes shining from under 
a large shawl turban. He is Mr. Finn's agent for Nazareth, 
and is very proud of his ofiRce, and of the few words of 
English which he can speak. 

Saleh's pretty little sister, " Jalily," i e. " the Glorious,'' led 
me to the room prepared for me. Her age was about eleven, 
and her face the fairest I had seen in Palestine ; it was a 
pure oval, with a straight nose, smaU weU-defined lips, long 
dark lashes and delicately pencilled eyebrows. The edges 
of her eyelids were strongly tinged with kohl, which gave 
strange power to large melancholy grey eyes — her finger- 
nails were slightly stained with henna, and her toe-nails 
deeply dyed 

She wore a violet-coloured muslin kerchief folded over 
her soft brown hair, crossed under her chin and tied in 
a bow at the top of her head. Her dress was green, edged 
with yellow braid, and open at the throat, showing a neck- 
lace of silver and coral ornaments. 

(I think green is a favourite colour among Christian 
Arabs now, because, until lately, they were forbidden to 
wear it, for the Moslems regard it as their sacred colour.) 

I awoke, and rose early, for a half-opened door, which I 
had not noticed by the dim lamp of the previous night, 
attracted my attention ; just within it were three narrow 
steps, each higher than my knee. I climbed up, and turn- 
ing sharply round, groped my way np three other steps, 
still more steep, and then stumbled against a low cracked 
wooden door, which I unfastened with difficulty; and when 
it burst open I found it led to a terraced roo^ to which 
there was no other access. The roof was high, and com- 
manded % beautiful view of the town, with its mosque and 
minarets, surrounded by taU dark cypress-trees, and the 
convent buildings conspicuous in the Christian quarter. 
The mists were gradually passing away from- the valley and 
floating np the hill-sides. The houses are of white lime- 
stone, square and flat-roofed, they look clean and cheerful : 
the ancient " city was built on a hill/' but modem Naza- 



118 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

reth, which is trnwalled, has gradually crept into the 
valley, at the bottom of which all the newest and largest 
houses are erected. 

Little Jallly was in an open court below with some 
women servants, who were making bread and chopping 
meat. She saw me, and ran up to greet me, saying, " May 
the day he white to y(mf' then she taught me the usual 
answer, "Miy it he to you as milled 

It was Sunday ; we went to the Latin Church of the 
Annunciation. We made our way through the nave, which 
is large and lofty. One side was crowded with men and 
boys bareheaded, and the other side occupied by women, 
kneeHng on the marble pavement in rows ;. their foreheads 
and the lower parts of their feces were quite concealed by 
folds of muslin and linen. As we passed by, they with 
one accord raised their heads for a moment, and their 
bright dark eyes flashed upon us from under their kohl- 
tinged lids like a gleam of lightning, then they bent their 
heads low and resumed their devotions. 

The Latin Patriarch of Jerusalem was confirming a 
number of children. Mass was celebrated, with more than 
usual pomp, by some illustrious ecclesiastics and vii^tors 
from Eome. The organ was well touched by one of the 
monks, and the chanting was magnificent. 

When this was over, we went down to see the Grotto of 
the Virgin ; it is underground, just beneath the high altar. 
On the broad stone stairs leading to it a troop of little Arab 
girls, belonging to the convent school, were seated. They 
looked full of animation and childish mischief, and the 
nuns or sisters of mercy, in whose charge they were, had 
great difficulty in keeping them in order. The children 
were dressed in native costume ; and the nuns (who are 
very superior, lady-like French women) wore white caps, 
with broad plain muslin frills, and little black hoods over 
them, and the plainest of plain black stuff dresses. They 
looked very quaint, but cheerful and lovable. They are 
most persevering in their schemes for proselytizing and 
educating Arab girls. Some of their pupils speak a little 



DOMESTIC LIPB IN PALESTINE. 119 

French, but it is very difficult to secure the regular attend- 
ance of children at the schools ; they are sad little truants. 

One of the sisters is a careful doctor and skilful surgeon, 
and thus obtains great influence over the natives, to whom 
she distributes medicine supplied from France. A Hakim 
(a doctor of medicine, male or female) can gain admittance 
and respect almost anywhere, and a Eomish missionary staff 
is never considered complete without a good physician. 

The children, marshalled by the sisters of mercy, made 
way for us, and we went down to the Altar of the Virgin ; 
it is of pitre white alabaster, laboriously and elaborately 
carved, but badly designed, rococo. Sweet basil bloomed 
all round it, and tapers burned there brightly. Near it is 
a part of a granite column, said by a monldsh tradition 
(which is endorsed by the Church) to be a fragment 
of the very room in which Mary stood, when the Angel 
Gabriel appeared to her ; but the room itself was conveyed 
by a miracle to Dalmatia, and afterwards to Loretto, where 
thousands of pUgrims visit it. The kitchen of the Virgin 
is still shown under the church at Nazareth. Women now 
and then came down the steps and prostrated themselves, 
beating their breasts and repeating Ave Marias, in Arabic, 
as rapidly as possible ; then they kissed three spots indi- 
cated by ornament on the pavement under the altar. The 
walls of the church are hung with painted linen, which 
produces exactly the effect of fine old tapestry, "and I did 
not discover that it was only imitation till I handled it. 
In the courtyard of the convent there are several fragments 
of ancient stone carving introduced in the modem walla* 
We went to the Protestant Mission House, and heard service 
in Arabic ; some pretty children and a few intelligent- 
looking men attended it. The pastor and school-teachers 
are Germans, but connected with the Anglican Church. 

All the Latins of Nazareth were in their gayest dresses 
that day, to do honour to the visit of their Patriarch. We 
met him walking with a little troop of monks and priests . 

* They have been engraved in the Builder (No. 878) from drawings 
which I made in the year 1858. 



120 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

He is a most remarkable-looking man, and wears d pale 
beard at least half a yard long, parted in the middle ; his 
broad-brimmed hat, nearly three-quarters of a yard in 
diameter, is trimmed with artificial coloured flowers and 
glossy green leaves of metallic lustre. The people crowded 
round him to kiss his hands and to secure his blessing. 

The usual dress of the men of Nazareth is bright and 
cheerful-looking, consisting of a sort of long dressing-gown, 
made of a mixture of silk and cotton, in patterns of very 
narrow stripes, commonly either red and purple, violet and 
yellow, green and blue, or purple and white; this is girdled 
with a shawl, or a broad red leather belt, lined and stitched, 
with pockets and purses made in it. Eed and yellow kefias 
(shawls with long knotted fringes) are worn in the town as 
turbans, but are generally put on like hoods for travelling. 
The women, who are very handsome, but rather bold-look- 
ing, use a great deal of kohl for their eyelids ; they tattoo 
their arms profusely, and their faces slightly. 

Their head-dress is very peculiar. It is a tight-fitting 
cap, made of cloth or linen, with a thick, firmly padded 
roll, one or two inches in diameter round the front, just 
covering the highest part of the head, and fastened with 
strings, but not quite meeting under the chin. To this roll 
silver coins are sewn, as close together as it is possible to 
place them, except that a little space is left at the top of 
the head, *and the coins fall, lapping one on the other, 
down each side of the face, and a little below the chin : at 
a distance it looks like a bonnet-front. Women wear coins 
as large as crowns or half-crowns ; and children generally 
have small ones, about the size of shillings. Muslin 
shawls or veils, of various colours or black, are folded 
across the forehead and over the lower part of the face ; so 
that, out of doors, the eyes only are exposed. When in- 
doors, the lower folds are slipped below the chin ; but the 
forehead is nearly always concealed, except by very young 
gu'ls. They wear loose trousers, white shirts, and long 
dresses, open entirely in front, made of striped cotton or 
Damascus silk, and girdled below the waist 



DOMESTIC Linr IN PALESTINE. 121 

" I went to Nazareth several times, and visited many of 
the Christian women in their homes. I found, generally, a 
great want of order and cleanliness among them. They 
are very proud of their town^ and are constantly invoking 
" El Sit Miriam "— " the Lady MaryP Their faith in, and 
reverence for, relics is unbounded; in all their rooms I 
saw holy pictures, little images, and small crystal or glass 
cases of fragments of bones and rags. Eings are constantly 
worn as charms. 

I asked a little chfld, who had once visited Haifa, whether 
she preferred HSifa and the beautiful sea, or NHsirah. 
She answered directly, ^' H^ifa is not a holy place ; but 
this town is holy : our Lady Mary lived here, and Christ, 
and Joseph." But although Nazareth is reckoned a holy 
place, it is by no means remarkable for its morality ; and 
in this respect it strikingly contrasts with Bethlehem, 
where the fathers and husbands are said to be severe and 
rigid disciplinarians, and where dishonour is punished 
with certain death. Nazareth had not a very good reputa- 
tion in the time of Christ, and it does not appear to have 
improved. 

I find that the younger girls are beginning to dispense 
with the coin head-dresses : they adopt, instead, the more 
simple red tarbouche and* mundll ; so I expect that soon 
these curious and weighty ornaments will only be found 
in the smaller towns and villages of Galilee. Some silver 
anklets were shown to me, and described as "old-fashioned ;" 
but plain bracelets of silver, gold, or glass are universally 
worn. I purchased one, formed of a twist of thick sUver, 
with a very broad and pointed, clumsily made, jewelled 
ring attached to it by a chain, also of wrought sUver. The 
ring was intended to be worn on the fore-finger; but one 
of my Nazarene friends told me that only the fellahin 
would wear anything so barbarous and old-fashioned. 

The change which is gradually being made here in the 
costume of the women does not depend on direct European 
or priestly influence, but simply on fashions introduced by 
settlers and visitors from other Oriental towns, especially 



122 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINB. 

n&ifa, and by the display in the bazaars of jeweUery and 
silk-tasselled caps from Stamboul, and coloured muslin 
mundils from European Turkey and Switzerland, which are 
worn commoidy in towns on the sea-coast of Palestine 
and Syria. 

On Monday, the 15th> t called, widi my brother and 
Sal'eh, on a wealthy native of Nazareth, who had lately 
built a handsome house of hewn: stone. He had just 
returned from a trip to Marseilles, where he had been 
purchasing furniture for it. The* terraces, courts, and cor- 
ridors were tastefully bordered witti beds of rosea, pinks, 
amd sweet basil, edged with broad stone copings; The 
floors were of inlaid, marble, black and white. The surface 
of the walls of ithe inner courts was very much decorated 
with rudely carved, round patarse; of interlacing designs, 
in low relief; and over the doors and windows, and in 
other prominent positions, English-made willow-pattem 
cheese-plates were introduced, imbedded in stucco, as en- 
caustic tiles might be ! The owner of the house called my 
attention to this novel application of cheese-plates. He 
told me that he had himself designed the house and its 
decorations. The new European furniture was almost as 
singularly disposed of as the willow-pattem plates were. 
His unsophisticated wife and daiighters marvelled exceed- 
ingly at some of his purchases in Marseilles, and seemed 
rather more perplexed than pleased by them. 

His drawing-room, which was something like a French 
salon, with its mirrors and marble tables, was frescoed by 
a native of Nazareth, who had been tutored and employed 
by the Franciscan monks in church mural decoration. On 
the panels of the doors he had painted groups of flowers, 
very carefully and laboriously; but they did not produce 
a good effect. 

Our host was the great man of his community after this 
trip to Marseilles, and, owing to his wealth and this 
famous journey, was for a time reckoned as a prophet, even 
in his own country. But, notwithstanding the comparative 
grandeur of his salon, those rooms of the house occupied 



DOMESTIC UFE IK PALKSTINS. 123 

by the women, and the cooking-places, were as untidy and 
inconvenient as the poorest establishments in the town* 
He was dressed in a suit of fine black cloth ; full- Turkish 
trousers and tight jacket; a shawl girdle and polished 
boots ; a small red cloth tarbouche, with a muslin kerchief 
over it (a mundll), fastened smoothly round his forehead. 
He wore a gold chain, as massive as an alderman's, outside 
his dress, and several rings on his fingers. His wife, how* 
ever, retains her Nazareth costume intact, and evidently 
does not approve of innovations. 

The Turkish governor of the town called while We were 
there ; he confidentially told my brother that the people of 
Nazareth were so proud and daring,* that he could do 
nothing with them. 

We rode out presently, in a northerly direction, to meet 
Mr. Finn. Our host joined us, and a large party fbUowed, 
including the governor, on a chestnut charger, decked with 
purple trappings, adorned with mother-of-pearl. After a 
pleasant ride, we met the consular party ; and' by simset 
their tents were pitched, and the English flag was waving 
over them in a pleasant olive-grove, just outside the town. 

The next day, Mr. Finn invited us to accompany him to 
Mount Tabor. We started at noon : it was oppressively 
hot. Gently, and almost silently, we rode towards the east, 
over hills sweet with wild thyme and dark with thorny 
bushes — ^through valleys green with fennel, or rugged with 
rocks overgrown with grey lichens and amber-coloured moss 
—now and then we pass^ a clump of leafless bushes, every 
branch of which was covered with smaU white edible snails, 
which I mistook at first for buds. The only flowers I saw 
were the crane's-bill, goat's-beard, and small Indian pinks. 
Mount Tabor was fuU in view, like an irregular dark cone, 
rising above the other hills. In about an hour, we entered 
a hilly and wooded district ; the cool, pleasant shade of 
trees, and the songs of birds, roused and refreshed us, and, 
in groups of twos and threes, pleasantly chatting, we pur- 
sued our way. Moimt Tabor, which had appeared to me 
to be gradually retreating as we advanced, was now quite 



124 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE, 

out of sight; but after we had traversed some wood-crowned 
hills, and the dry beds of two or tly'ee winter torrents, 
we saw it lagain, in all its beauty and grandeur. We 
hastened over a tree-covered slope, and down a fertile 
valley, and reached its base at about two o'clock We gra- 
dually ascended an easy winding path, pleasantly shaded, 
till we were about half-way up, when rocks and steep stone 
ledges, ancient masonry, and overhanging branches, obliged 
us to look cautiously before us, and to follow the steps of 
the leader carefully. Oaks (whence galls are procured), 
arbutus, pistacia vera, pistacia terebinthus (which yields 
what is called Venice turpentine), pistacia lentiscus (pro- 
ducing gum mastich), and locust-trees abound; they were 
wreathed with glossy-leaved creepers: but nearly every 
plant or shrub which I touched was armed with thorns 
as sharp as fine needles. 

Looking down the steepest side, we could see the wide- 
spread wings of eagles as they hovered just below us, or 
swept rapidly through the air, and black and fawn-coloured 
vultures, with their bright pinions perfectly poised and 
almost motionless, supporting them in steady downward 
flight in spiral circles ; as they rose again, their wings were 
set in motion, and I felt the disturbance of the air now and 
then when they passed near to us. In trying to watch their 
circular sailing and heavenward wanderings I nearly reeled 
from my horse ;, they rose higher and higher, spirally, till 
they were quite indiscernible to the naked eye. 

We alighted on the summit of the hill, at a quarter to 
three, on a smooth plateau surrounded by large masses of 
hewn stone and the foundations of strong walls : on one 
side there is an archway called "Bab el How-a'' (Gate of 
the Winds), and on the other, part of a ruined chapel and 
an altar in an apse ; a limestone cave and a cistern hewn 
in the rock, and two or three patches of ground cultivated 
by a Eussian hermit, named Erinna of Bucharest, who had 
lived on this mountain for fourteen years. 

Once when I spent a long day here, with Colonel and 
the Honourable Mrs. F. Walpole, I took his portrait, and 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 125 

he told me the story of his life. His father, he said, was 
an extensive land proprietor in the Crimea, where he was 
born, but he went afterwards to Bucharest. One night 
Erinna dreamt that an angel appeared to him and said, 
"Arise and go into the land which I will show you." 
This disturbed him very much, and all day the words 
were ringing in his ears. The next night the angel, in 
shining raiment, appeared again in a dream and repeated 
the words, led him through the air and showed him a 
mountain with a little cavern on its summit. On the 
third night the angel led him again to the mountain and 
told him that he was to dwell in the cavern. Erinna 
was so impressed by these dreams, or visions as he calls 
them, that he took leave of his family, and for twenty 
years travelled in Eussia, Greece,. i^ypt and Syria to seek 
for the mountain of his dream ; at last he recognised the 
cave on Mount Tabor and immediately took up his abode 
there, for he was convinced that it was the place indi- 
cated by the angeL He was then eighty-four years of 
age, and he said, " I thought I should soon die, but I am 
now heartier than ever, and yet I am nearly one hundred 
years old" One winter's night, as fie slept alone in his 
«ave, he felt something soft and warm crouching by his 
side ; he found it was a young leopard or panther : he gave 
it food, made friends with it, and ever since then the animal 
has shared his ceU and follows him about like a pet cat. 

Erinna, like Eobinson Crusoe, after years of solitude, 
fonnd " his man Friday " ; a fellow-countryman, a sturdy- 
looking, rather sUent, middle-aged man, who has volun- 
teered to superintend the little, field of wheat and barley, 
to cut wood for firing, and to fetch water from the rock 
cisterns. He calls himself the hermit's servant, and he will 
•no doubt some day inherit the hermitage, the sheepskin 
cap, the ragged mantle and the reputation of Erinna. 

The priests of Nazareth, especially the Latins, are very 
jealous of the influence of this anchorite, for he is regarded 
by Christian Arabs as a man of peculiar sanctity, and is 
supposed to enjoy the especial favour of God and His 



126 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

angels ; by many lie is believed to have the power of per- 
forming miracles, though he does not profess it. He told us 
that the Latins were so strongly and perseveringly in- 
triguing against him (representing him as a Bussian spy), 
that he feared he should be banished from the country. 
He occasionally visits the sick at Nazareth and the neigh- 
bouring villages ; once he came to see us at Haifa. He 
never eats meat ; his chief food is rice and oil, of which he 
purchases a store once a year. He keeps a few goats for the 
sake of their milk ; cultivates a little garden of herbs and 
vegetables ; gathers wild fruit, and takes "honey out of" 
the nests in " the rocks ; " see Psalm Ixxxi. 16. He made 
us some excellent coffee, of which he generally has a supply, 
chiefly for guests, i,e. Christian pilgrims and travellers. 
He does not make the slightest attempt to render his cave 
clean or comfortable ; rude niches in the rocky walls serve 
to hold his few books and a little red earthenware lamp. 
A mat of reeds, some heavy clothing and sheepskins on a 
stone ledge form his bed. His compamon, who belongs to 
the peasant class, occupies a cell close to it, which is used 
as the kitchen or cooking place ; two very rough delf 
dishes, two wooden bowls and spoons, and a metal stew- 
pan may be seen there. 

I asked Erinna if he had ever "beeu married ; he said 
Mount Tabor was his only bride. 

He and "his man Friday" assured me they were veiy 
happy, and they looked so. They divide their days regu- 
larly, and work, pray, eat, and sleep systematically, but 
they seem to think ablution is not necessary, and they wear 
the same clothes day and night Erinna is ruddy and 
hearty, and though his bushy beard is quite white, he does 
not look so old as he reckons he is.* 

The view from Mount Tabor is very extensive, it over- 
looks the plain of Esdraelon Proper, which is divided into 
squares and patches of cultivated land ; it appeared from 
the distance like a rude mosaic, of every tint of orange, 

* Erinna died in 1859, much regretted by the peasants of the plain, and 
by the poor of Nazareth. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 127 

yellow, grey, green, brown and lavender ; not a house, tent, 
or village could be seen to break its monotony, nor even a 
tree to cast a shadow ; but the hills which surround it were 
clothed with woods and dotted with towns, hamlets and 
ruins. Mr. Finn said "Fancy Barak with his 10,000 men 
upon this mountain ; people that plain with the chariots, 
* even 900 chariots of iron,* gathered together by Sisera, 
and see Sisera pursued by Barak unto Harosheth." He 
read the landscape round for me, pointing out the range of 
Carmel and the Mediterranean on the west ; the hills of 
Gilboa and the villages of Jezreel, Endor and Nain in the 
south; the hill-country beyond Jordan, and the mountains 
which encircle the Sea of Galilee on the east, and far away 
in the north Lebanon crowned with snow ; while nearer to 
us we could see the Horns of Hattin — a rounded hill with 
two distinct mounds or peaks on its summit. This is 
called the Mount of Beatitudes, where tradition tells us 
the Sermon of Sermons was preached. After exploring the 
ruins and the deep cisterns, we remounted. The sun had 
quite disappeared when we reached the foot of the hill 
(on one occasion I walked down the steepest side of Tabor, 
with the help of a stout stick ai;id a strong arm). We had 
a pleasant ride back to Nazareth by moonlight. 

The Kev. J. L. Porter says, that Tabor rises 1,400 feet 
above the plain, and the plain is 500 feet above the level 
of the sea. 

We spent the evening 9A the Consular encampment, 
and at a late hour walked by lantern-light to Saleh's 
house. 

The next morning I sat in the deep embrasure of a 
window, sketching, while my brother was busy in the 
midst of a group of Turkish Elfendis and Christian scribes. 
They all carried inkhoms in their girdles, with cases 
attached to them, to hold their reed pens ; they sat on the 
floor and held single sheets of paper in their hands, and 
wrote without any desk or support. The points of reed 
pens are so delicate, that they would be easily fractured by 
piessme on a hard table or desk. 



128 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

The population of Nazareth is computed by Dr. Eobin- 
son thus : — 



Moslems . . 
Greeks . . . 
Latins « . . 
Greek Catholics 
Maronites . . 



680 
1040 who look to Russia as their protector. 

goA [Adherents of the Pope, and consequently 
^qqJ French protSgSs, 



This gives a total of 3,120 : but the most recent and 
careful inquirers assure me that this estimate is too low ; 
they reckon the total at 4,000, and the Greek Church is 
said to be on the increase. I never met a Jew either in 
Nazareth or Bethlehem ! There is a small Protestant con- 
gregation, which is rather fluctuating. 

Khawadja Stephani, the son of the Greek Priest of Shefa 
'Omer, came expressly to ask us and Saleh to return to 
HS,ifa by way of his village, and to pass a night there at 
his house. We arranged to do so, and started soon after 
midday, riding for some distance over rocky hills, where 
bees were busy among the blossoming herbs ; across plains 
covered with tall thistles — ^their harsh stems, leaves, thorns, 
and spiny flowers were bright with a purple bloom, like 
that which we see on ripe plums, and from a distance a 
plain overgrown with them looked like a calm blue lake. At 
about two we entered a garden inclosed by a low stonewall, 
situated at the bottom of a well-watered valley, where the 
lemon-trees were laden with green fruit, and pomegranates 
were plentiful. We dismounted and walked through the 
garden to the streamlet which traverses it, bordered with 
hawthorn, rose, and fruit trees ; its banks, steep and grassy, 
were fragrant with mint and marjoram, and cresses grew 
along the edge of the water ; under a wide-spreading fig- 
tree, where tiny-leaved clover had made a smooth carpet, 
we spread our saddle-cloths in a half-circle, and took our 
seats. Soon a plentiful dinner was placed before us ; we 
took it in primitive style, for we had neither forks nor 
spoons, and our only plates were thin Arab loaves, about a 
quarter of a yard in diameter and a quaiter of an inch 
thick. Saleh made a drinjring-cup for me of tJUe large le«i.f 



DOMESTIC lilFE IN PALESTINE. 129 

of a water plant, which he knew to be harmless. Each one 
of the party as soon as he had eaten, rose and washed his 
hands at the stream, and then selecting another tree for our 
shade, and a grassy bank for our divan, we rested^ telling 
stories in turn, while the kawasses and servants made an 
end of the provisions. 

In this garden I saw some remarkable double fig-trees, 
the trunks of which were twisted as perfectly and regularly 
as if they had been carved ; I asked the gardener how he 
managed it ; he said, "Allah Karim'' " God is bountiful," 
and then explained to me how tender saplings are planted 
side by side and perseveringly entwined, or even plaited 
sometimes ; he led me to one which he considered more 
perfect than the others, the twisted trunk was about half 
a yard in diameter, it rose six feet from the ground, as up- 
right as a marble column, without any branches to break 
its perfect outline, and then spread out its crooked arms in 
all directions, clothed with green leaves, the largest I had 
ever observed. This pleasant garden is near to the fountain 
which was the gathering-place of the Christian knights 
before the terrible battle of Hattin, and where the conqueror 
Saladin encamped after he had in that decisive conflict 
almost annihilated the Crusaders. Sephoris, or Sefurieh, is 
just opposite ; it is a poor but interesting place ; Jewish, 
Heathen, and Christian ruins are to be found there, and 
tradition points to the house in which Anna, the mother of 
Mary, was bom ; but the garden delighted me more than 
the village did, and in the spring it is perfection. We 
mounted at half-past three, and followed the course of the 
stream ; it flowed between orchards, gardens of cucumbers, 
and stubble-fields ; all the horses and their riders seemed 
newly animated, they rode in circles displaying feats of 
horsemanship, letting off their pistols while in full gallop, 
therp long, loose, white Arab cloaks made of goat's hair flut- 
tered behind them, and the almost flying figures represented 
to my fancy the Templars of old, on their fabled white 
winged steeds. When the horses were weU tired, the riders 
grouped together, and we rode through an oak-wood talking 

E 



132 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

meat). The Eabbi and chief members of the Jewish com- 
munity of Shefa 'Omer were also present, a few Moslems 
and Druzes, and a number of Christian Arabs ; arrack was 
handed round from time to time in the lower part of the 
room, and songs of praise were sung in honour of the chief 
guests. Saleh, who is no singer, but a very fluent speaker, 
said, "Abrahim left his kindred, his home and his country, 
he dwelt in a strange land among strangers, but he became 
mighty in the land, his family increased, his name became 
great ; even so may the name of Eogers be known through- 
out this country, may his children and his children's 
children dwell here in honour." The idea was immediately 
taken up by the singers, and they improvised a song, the 
burden of which was, " may his children's children dwell 
here in honour." 

Some graceful compliments were paid to me, with prayers 
for my happiness : then the singing — of which there was 
a great variety, became general. We heard Egyptian love- 
songs beautifully and plaintively sung by a gardener from 
the NUe, and a man of Bagdad gave us a curious ditty, 
jerking out his words at first, and by degrees toning them 
down into a languishing, drawling melody, in a minor key. 
The Arabs sang a great many monotonous songs ; but one 
was very sweet, the chorus of it was, " Oh Bedaweeya.'' (I 
think this song would please English ears generally.) 

Isaac, the Jew of Aleppo, was asked to dance for me ; 
the lantern was moved out of the way ; he stood up at first 
very shyly, the Arabs sitting round, singing aad clapping 
their hands, keeping time; he had on very full white 
drawers, a black jacket, yellow and white silk striped 
waistcoat, and a shawl sash ; round his red tarbouche a blue 
mundil was folded ; he bent his head down and raised his 
arms above it ; by degrees his feet and hands were in slow 
motion in harmony with the music, and his body swayed to 
and fro. Soon the songs grew louder, the clapping of hands 
quicker, and the movements of the dancer more decided, but 
they were as monotonous as the tunes which inspired them : 
during the whole of the dance he kept within a circle of 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 133 

about a yard in diameter, at last he spun round and 
retreated, hiding himself shamefacedly behind his friends. 

Supper was announced, and many of the visitors retired ; 
servants brought in a round stand, about five inches in 
height, and covered it with dishes. While this was being 
arranged, my brother begged to be allowed to fetch a certain 
man, named Habib, to sup there; he had once been 
Stephanies chief friend, but a misunderstanding had arisen 
between them, consequently the two most influential 
Christian families in Shefa 'Omer lived as strangers to each 
other. Stephani readily consented to receive Habib, who soon 
came, and the two long divided friends embraced (they have 
lived in harmony ever since). Before eating, each one of us 
had water poured on our hands over the marble basin ; for the 
Christian Arabs, as well as the Moslems, "anrf all the Jews, 
except they wash their hands, eat not'' This is particularly 
necessary, considering they do not use knives and forks ; 
but each one " dips his hand into the dish " with his neigh- 
bour. 

Stephani at first wished to serve us at supper, instead of 
sitting down with us, for it is the Arab custom for the host to 
wait on his guests as a servant ; we overcame his scruples, 
and we ate together ; afterwards, water was again poured 
on our hands, a servant stood by, holding native scented- 
soap and an embroidered towel ; then we had coffee and 
naighil^s. 

An Arabic Bible published by the British and Foreign 
Bible Society (a Boman version, by the bye) was brought 
in, and Saleh read aloud the Sermon on the Mount. Bible 
history is pretty well known in the Greek -community, it is 
read in their churches in the vulgar tongue, and is not 
withheld from the laity ; the bulk of the people, however, 
cannot read ; the few who can do so, gladly obtain copies ; 
but it is rarely to be met with, except in those families of 
which one of the members is a priest or very studious, as 
Saleh for instance. 

The Greek priests must always be married men ; those 
of the villages and smjdl towns are often very ignorant^ 



134* DOMESTIC LIITB IN PALESTINE. 

and as they rarely receive a systematic ecclesiastical train- 
ing, their expositions and definitions of the articles and 
dogmas of their Church are very curious and conflicting. 
Their bishops and higher clergy are generally foreigners, ie. 
native Greeks and Bussians, and do not often learn Arabic, 
so they make little or no impression on the Syrian branch 
of their Church. 

The Latin clergy, on the other hand, are often quite un- 
familiar with the Bible, and always strongly oppose its cir- 
culation, but are well grounded in matters of discipline 
and doctrinal points. 

The two Churches vie with each other in circulating 
extraordiaary traditions and legends of saints and martyrs, 
and they equally encourage pilgrimages to holy places and 
reliance on relics. 

Soon after supper the room was cleared of all the smoking, 
turbanned, fezzed, and singing guests, slaves and servants ; 
my brother and Saleh went home with Habib to sleep at 
his house; I was left alone in the large guest-chamber, 
where Stephani had caused a bed to be made for me. I 
opened one of the heavy shutters, to see my friends pass 
round on the side of the hiU, five lanterns gleaming before 
them; I fastened the door. with a stiff clumsy lock (the 
mechanism of which I did not in the least understand), and 
I soon discovered that I was a self-made prisoner, for I 
could not find out how to undo it again ; I was obliged to 
resign myseK to my fate, making sure I should be set free 
in the morning ; I fell asleep on a soft, crimson silk pillow, 
under an embroidered lehaff, and did not wake till the sun 
shone on my face through the*chinks of the ill-made shut- 
ters. I was up and dressed when Stephani knocked at the 
door, which he contrived to open; while the room was 
swept and garnished I went with him to take coffee at the 
house of Habib ; on my return to my quarters, the female 
members of the famUy. their neighbours, and the women- 
servants, came to look at me, but not till they were quite 
sure of finding me alona They clustered shyly round the 
door, and I had to play the part of hostess and invite them 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 135 

to enter in. They were dressed in the same style as the 
women of Nazareth^ and are quite as handsome, but more 
simple and modest-looking. Stephani's wife, a tall, dark- 
eyed woman, wore large heavy coins round her face, with a 
yellow mundil folded across her forehead and tied at the 
back of her head ; the open front of her red and white 
cotton dress was trimmed with a double frill, edged with 
braid. Her eldest daughter, a girl of ten, named Werdeh 
{{. e. Rose), was very beautiful, with regular features, clear 
bronzed complexion, eyes brown and sparkling, the lids 
deeply tinged with kohl, and the hands and feet stained 
with henna ; her thick, dark hair was combed down over 
her high forehead, and cut straight across it just above her 
arched eyebrows ; at the back her hair was allowed to grow 
long, and was plaited ; she wore a headdress of coins, for 
they are not yet going out of fashion in Shefa 'Omer ; her 
open dress was of white calico, ornamented in front pro- 
fusely with black, blue, and red braid ; the sleeves are very 
long, and capable of concealing the hands entirely, but 
when the arms are raised the sleeves still hang down, for 
they are slit open as high as the elbow. 

The room was soon crowded with women and girls: 
then* dresses, though various in point of texture and con- 
dition, were all of the same fashion ; from the crimson 
and white striped silk dress of a young bride, to the 
ragged cotton garments worn by an aged servant, whose 
headdress was stript of all its coins. I was sketching 
Werdeh and her mother, when suddenly they, and all the 
rest, rose and scampered away, without saying a word, 
veiling themselves hastily.* The entrance of the Turkish 
Governor and my brother a minute afterwards explained 
their flight 

Little Daoud, the governor's son, came to see ma He 
wore an olive-coloured cloth cloak, and a green muslin 
turban. His features were regular, but his face was very 
sallow. He tried to look dignified and composed while 
I took his portrait, but could not prevent a snaile coming 
now and then. Saleh, and Stephani, with his father, joined 



136 Domestic life in Palestine. 

us, and after lunch we went all together to the castle. On 
approaching it, I perceived that it was already falling to 
decay, although it was only built about 150 years ago. 
The lofty gates and archways are slightly decorated with 
fretted canopies, in the style of the Alhambra ; a two- 
storied range of vaulted corridors and chambers surrounds 
an extensive courtyard ; the ground-floor is well adapted 
for stabling, and would lodge about 500 horses ; tottering 
stone stairways led us to the upper floors ; the pointed 
double windows, in deep embrasures in the outer walls, 
command magnificent views in all directions. 

The west windows overlook the plain of Akka and the 
sea, with Mount Carmel and HS^ifa in the background on 
the left. The north windows look towards Lebanon, with 
the city of Akka on the left, and the little town of Abi- 
lene in the foreground on the right, its tall white tower 
standing conspicuously in the midst of olive-trees and 
gardens. The banners of Eichard I. once waved there. 
The southern and eastern views are bounded by hills and 
moimtains, rising one behind the other. 

While petitioners for protection crowded round my 
brother, I wandered from hall to haU and from window 
to window, with Sjdeh for my cicerone. We climbed to 
the top of the embattled walls, and walked nearly all 
round the building; but the stones are falling, and allowed 
to remain where they fall, and scarcely any use seems to 
be made of the place. 

As we left the castle, the governor asked me to go 
with him to see his wives. A glance from my brother 
told me that I might accept the invitation. Of course, 
none of the gentlemen could accompany me; so they 
walked homewards with Stephani, and the governor 
escorted me to his dreary-looking house. A gateway, 
through which a laden camel could easily pass, led us 
into an ill-paved guttered court, which was the only en- 
trance to a square vaulted hall, with bare stone walls, and 
four unglazed windows quite out of reach ; tha floor was 
of earth, with smooth rock slabs here and thera This 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 137 

was the governor's residence— his dining-room, withdraw- 
ing-Toom, nursery, stables, and kitchen all together ! On 
one side, just within the door, a mule was feeding ; a stone 
bench, hollowed out a little, was his manger ; a patient 
ass stood by him : on the other side, a tethered horse was 
neighing; and on a heap of fodder two dirty, delicate- 
looking children were kicking and crying out lustily. 
There was a sort of oven, or cooking-place, in one corner 
of the hall, and I could see the red glow of a charcoal 
fire. On the left hand there was a broad wooden platform, 
raised about two feet from the ground, with a low orna- 
mental wooden railing at the edge of it Here mattresses 
and lehaflFs were piled up ; I suppose it was the sleeping- 
place of the lord of the harim. We went straight across 
the hall, to a dais, in a broad arched recess, just opposite 
to the door by which we had entered ; two crooked stone 
steps led up to it, and two women — one old and the other 
young — stood there ready to receive ma They took my 
hands in theirs, and placed me on a cushioned seat on the 
matted floor. 

The governor introduced me to the younger of the 
women, telling me that she was his wife, the mother of 
his little Daoud. She was perhaps twenty, rather tall and 
graceful-looking, with bright blue eyes and black hair, and 
a brilliant though dark complexion. She had used kohl 
and henna freely, and her chin and forehead were tattooed. 
I think she was prepared for my coming, for she had on 
a f§te-day dress : a blue cloth jacket, embroidered with 
gold, very open in front, showing her tattooed chest, and 
a white spun silk shirt ; her full trowsers were of Aleppo 
sflk, white and straw-coloured. Her shallow red cloth 
cap was decorated with rows of gold coins, pearls, and 
everlasting flowers ; a long purple tassel hung down be- 
hind, and a perforated, flat, crescent-shaped gUt ornament, 
about five inches wide, was fixed on the top of the head- 
dress. (Is this the " round tire " like the moon, referred to 
in Isaiah iii. 18 ?) Her long hair was plaited, and inter- 
woven with black silk braid to make it appear stni longer. 



138 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

She told me that Shefa ^Omer was not a pleasant place 
to live in, and that she was quite a stranger there. I 
asked her what part of the country she came from. She 
said, "Neby-Daoud is the place of my birth, and the 
place I love." (She referred to a cluster of buildings 
round the tomb of the Prophet David, or Neby-Daoud, just 
outside the walls of Jerusalem, by the Zion gate.) She 
was happy to hear herself called Um Daoud, that is, " The 
Mother of David." 

The governor interrupted her explanations, by telling her 
to make some lemonade for me. Close by the two steps of 
the dais stood a pair of high clogs, almost like stilts, made 
of inlaid dark wood and mother-of-pearl, with crimson 
leather straps. She fastened these on her henna-stained, 
naked feet ; for the earth floor was very damp and dirty, 
and water rested here and there in little pools. Her hus- 
band followed her, and helped her to reach some green 
drinking-glasses from a niche in the wall The other 
woman, who looked very old and careworn, remained by 
my side. When the young wife was out of hearing, I 
exclaimed, " How beautiful she is ! ** She agreed with me, 
and seemed to take a mother's pride and pleasure in her 
beauty. I did not know that the young wife was her 
rival, I fancied she was her daughter, till she said, " Um 
Daoud is young, Um Daoud is happy ; she is young, and 
is the mother of two sons ; " (she pointed to a cradle 
hammock, suspended from the key-stone of the arch above 
us — in it a little swaddled figure was securely and gently 
swinging ;) " but," she added, " I have no sons left, my sons 
are dead, and I am old, I am no longer handsome, / am 
nothing, lam worthless*' Then she explained to me that 
she had lived about twenty years with the governor before 
he took Um Daoud for his wife. I said to her, alluding to the 
little ones who had now crawled out of the fodder, " Whose 
children are they?" She said, "They are sons of the 
house" (that is, of the governor), and a slave, who stood 
near the oven, was their mother. 

Presently Um Daoud returned with the lemonade ; the 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN FALESTDTE. 139 

governor himself brought me a tiny cup of coflfee flavoured 
with ambeigris. Young Daoud now came in and seemed 
delighted to find me there ; he said, " Make my mother's 
face in your book," and " Make my brother's face for me." 
The baby-boy was lifted out of the hammock, he was about 
six months old, his eyelids were black with kohl. I 
asked why kohl was used for a child so young. " It will 
strengthen the sight of his eyes, and make the lashes long 
and thick," said the elder woman. I took leave of them, 
and found my kawass just outside the house waiting to 
take me to meet my brother at the Greek church. It is a 
modem building, silk hangings and gaudy pictures deco- 
rate the walls ; the font is of marble, I think it is formed 
of an ancient Byzantine capital, hollowed out at the top. 
In a school, adjoining the church, a number of boys were 
noisily, but monotonously, intoning Psalms, echoing the 
nasal twang of their teacher. 

I find that the Psalter is the chief class-book in Christian 
Arab schools, as the Koran is in Moslem schools. I have 
often seen boys with these books in their hands, who 
appear to be reading freely, when in reality they scarcely 
know their letters, but who repeat, parrot-like, large portions 
of them by heart. We afterwards went to the Jewish 
Synagogue, where the chief Eabbi received us ; he showed 
me several copies of the Law and the Prophets, wrapped in 
crimson silk cases, which are kept in a recess behind an 
embroidered curtain or veil 

In the middle of the building there was a high circular 
wooden platform, with seats of honour upon it ; it was built 
so slightly that at first I thought it was only a temporary 
erection ; but I found in all the synagogues which I visited, 
raised central seats of equally slight construction. 

The gentlemen then went for a ride ; I declined doing so, 
hoping during their absence to see the women again, and 
Kiawadja Stephani at my request sent his wife and children 
to me. They took me to see the lower part of the house — 
it was iU-arranged, untidy, and uncomfortable ; they re- 
turned with me to my room ; I made a few sketches which 



140 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

amused them greatly. Soon such crowds of women came 
in, that one of the men-servants of the house who stood as 
guard or sentinel at my door, entered, and very uncere- 
moniously drove about half of them out of the place, and 
they all withdrew when the gentlemen returned from 
their ride. 

We spent the evening at the house of Habib ; a large 
party assembled to meet us in his spacious guest-chamber, 
and all the culinary skill of Shefa *Omer had been employed 
in preparing a supper for us. Songs, complimentary 
speeches, and story-telling followed. I walked back to 
Stephanies house, by the light of many lanterns, accompanied 
to my door by my brother and nearly all the guests. 

At sunrise the next morning we were mounted and 
ready to start for HSifa ; Stephani, Habib, and a large party 
joined us ; our Egyptian groom had charge of a beautiful 
Syrian gazelle-hound which had been given to my brother. 
We rode down into the valley and along a level road 
leading to a large fountain- A number of the village girls 
were already assembled there, some standing on the high 
stone platform surrounding the well, and others grouped 
round the base ; in the distance we saw a procession of 
them, traversing, one by one, a narrow foot-path on the 
hill-side, with their replenished jars perfectly poised on 
their heads. 

We turned out of the Akka road and entered an ex- 
tensive olive-grove ; picturesque groups of men, women, 
and children, in bright coloured garments, were busy among 
the trees or hastening along the road. I had always seen 
the oKve plantations so silent and deserted that it was 
quite a surprise to me ; Saleh explained, that it was the 
beginning of the olive harvest (the 19th of October), and 
all of these people had been hired to gather the ftuit. The 
men beat the trees with long sticks, and the women and 
children pick up the berries.* We met a straggling group 

* " When thou beatest thine olive-tree thou shalt not go oyer the boughs 
again ; it shaU be for the stranger, the fatherieBs, and the widow.** Deut. 
ToiY. 20. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. Ill 

of figures which looked so unnaturally taU and dispro- 
portionate that I could not make them out, till I was 
told that they were Druze women; they wore tubular 
horns, from one to two feet in length, bound firmly on 
their foreheads, supporting heavy black or white veils 
which almost shrouded the wearers, producing a very un- 
graceful outline — (of these strange people I hope to speak 
more folly on a fiiture occasion). Presently we came to 
a rocky district, overgrown with dwarf oaks, thorns, and 
thistles, and then reached the fertile plain of *Akka, traversed 
by the blue winding Kishon and its many tributaries. 

The large fields of cotton had a very pretty effect, for 
they were in their full beauty ; the bushes are about two 
feet high, the stems are reddish, the leaves are of the 
colour of the maple in the spring-time, the blossom looks 
as if it were made of butterflies' wings, white and spotted. 
When these white wings fall, a green bulb, in a triangular 
cup, is exposed ; this grows to about an inch in diameter, 
and changes to a rich glossy chestnut colour, and gradually 
becoming harsh, splits into three parts, when soft downy 
cotton bursts from it Saleh gathered a branch for me, 
includiQg specimens of the plant in these three distinct 
stages. My brother told me that the Arabs do not cultivate 
the long staple cotton (which is most valued in England), 
because it requires so much care in picking ; for the pods 
must be gathered as soon as they ripen, and as they do not 
ripen all at once, the harvest necessarily extends over two 
or three weeks ; whereas the short staple cotton gives the 
cultivator very little trouble, for the pods are not injured 
by being left on the tree after they are ripe, and the harvest 
does not commence tiU nearly every pod is ready for 
picking, the consequence is that it is very soon over. This 
inferior cotton does very well for native use, and to fiU the 
Arab mattresses, and lehaflfs or quilts; but it is not of 
much commercial value. 

If the plain of Akka were cultivated with skiU and 
energy it would yield abundantly. Under the present 
system the soil produces in winter, wheat, barley, bear 



142 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

lentils, peas, and tobacco ; and in the summer-time cotton, 
sesame, millet, and many kinds of cucumbers; poppy, 
mallows, and various herbs enliven it, while all the hills 
around are suitable for vineyards, olive-groves, and 
orchards ; flax, asparagus, gentian, scammony, and many 
other plants, valuable in medicine, grow wild there, and 
the marshes of the plain abound with kali, the ashes of 
which, mixed with olive or sesame oil, are converted into 
soap. The villages of this district are inhabited by Moslems, 
Christians, and Druzes, and a few Jews. They pay heavy 
taxes to the government in wheat, barley, and money, 
and are bound to furnish camels, horses, or mules when- 
ever the Pasha requires them. 

We crossed a spring, round which taU reeds and short 
soft grass grew ; thousands of edible snails were clinging to 
the stems of some straggling bushes ; wiry, long rooted 
marram-grass and sea-holly {eryngium Tnarittmum), tama- 
risks, and willows bound the sandy soil and kept it from 
drifting. We passed over some sand-hills, on which were 
a few scattered plants, with thick, downy, whitish leaves and 
yellow blossoms. Here we took leave of our Shefa 'Omer 
friends, and they returned to their olive-groves. 

We were soon on the sea-shore : two English merchant 
steamers were just entering the port of HSifa. We cantered 
to the Kishon and crossed over it, by carefully keeping on 
the bar of sand which encircles the mouth of the river, 
sweeping out far into the sea. The water was above our 
horses' knees, and now and then an advancing wave covered 
us with spray. 

We rode quickly along by the edge of the water, with 
the palm-grove and the fruit-gardens on our left hand, and 
the rippling waves on our right ; we entered the town at a 
quarter to nine, just in time to receive two English mer- 
chant captains, at the Vice-Consulate, where poor Katrine, 
our soi-disant mother, welcomed us with tears of joy, 
saying, "Praised be God, my children have returned to 
me in safety." 



CHAPTEE VII. 



ON Tuesday, October 23d, 1855, a Turkish steamer from 
Constantinople entered the port of H&ifa, bringing a 
new Pasha for Akka, with his harim, and suite of thirty- 
individuals, including an Armenian doctor; the chief people 
of Akka came to meet him, and our little town was in an 
unusual state of excitement ; my brother went to welcome 
his Excellency, who afterwards called at the Consulate 
with twelve attendants. 

Newly appointed Pashas may sometimes be persuaded 
into doing some good in their Pashalics ; and, at the comr 
mencement of their reigns, choked-up fountains flow, broken 
cisterns are repaired, and aqueducts are kept in order, but 
only for a very little while. On the " new broom " principle, 
the Consuls earnestly urged the new Pasha to give orders 
for the cleansing of the guttered streets of HS^ifa, some of 
which were little better than open sewers, and in a danger- 
ously unwholesome state ; they also advised the removal 
of the dust-heaps by the sea-shore, which had been allowed 
to grow into broad barricades, where vegetable refuse and 
all sorts of filth were thrown ; the appeal was favourably 
heard, the work actually commenced immediately, and 
Haifa underwent sweeping and scraping, probably for the 
first time in its existence. 

Men and boys ran hither and thither with baskets of 
rubbish; Beks and Consuls bustled about giving orders, 
and the dust-heaps were by degrees shovelled into the sea. 

The Europeans and the upper class of Arabs rejoiced at 
the prospect of living in a comparatively clean town, but 



144 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

the majority considered the refonnatioii quite unnecessary, 
and grumblingly prophesied that some harm would come to 
H&ifa if such innovations were permitted. 

Late on Thursday evening, Mohammed Bek came to the 
Consulate, lamenting the loss of a gold chain, with his 
signet ring on it. In the East, more importance is 
attached to the impression of a seal than (o a signature, 
and he feared some improper use might be mad§ of it 
by the finder, so a declaration of the loss was drawn up 
by Yusef Anton, the Governor's Secretary, signed by the 
Bek, and attested by my brother. Mohammed told us 
he had missed it in the bazaar, when surrounded by a 
crowd of boys, to whom he was giving instructions about 
the street cleaning. It was a very fine night, and, half in 
joke, half in earnest, I offered to seek for the lost treasure. 
He took me at my word, and we went out aU together ; 
the town was perfectly stiU, the bazaar was deserted, and 
as bright and clean as moonlight and the scavengers of 
HS,ifa could make it ; but after all, I was not so fortunate 
as to find the ring. 

As we returned homewards, the silence was suddenly 
broken by the wildly wailing and shrieking voices of 
women, announcing that a death had just taken place ; 
their shrill mournful cries rang in my ears all night. 

On the following morning (October 26th), very early, I 
looked from the window, and saw a bier close to the door 
of a neighbouring house ; it was a painted wooden stand, 
about seven feet by two, raised slightly on four legs, with 
a low gallery round it, formed of uprights far apart, and 
two cross bars ; two strong poles projected at each end 
from the comers ; above it a canopy was raised, made of 
freshly-gathered elastic palm branches, they were bent like 
half-hoops, and then interlaced and secured lengthways, 
with straight fronds. I sketched it, and presently I saw 
the dead body of a man, handsomely dressed, brought out 
and placed upon it ; his face was covered with a shawl. 
Four men lifted the- bier from the ground, and resting the 
poles on their shoulders, bore it to the mosque. After a 



DOMESMO LIFE IN PALESTINE. 145 

little while, it was carried slowly along, passing the Consu- 
late on its way to the Moslem burial-ground, preceded by 
about forty men, solemnly silent, and followed by at least 
fi% women and children shrieking wildly, singing, and 
screaming. 

Between the palm-fronds I could plainly see the figure 
of the dead man, the head was foremost ; and I could not 
help thinking that, if a voice endued with power to awaken 
the dead would tell the mother and the widow not to weep, 
and order the bearers of the bier to stand still, and say to 
the dead man, '"Arise" it would be in his fSte-day dress 
that he would sit up imder the canopy of palms, and begin 
to speak. (See Luke viL 11 — 15.) 

I made inquiry about the deceased, and found that he 
was a respectable Moslem, of about twenty-four years of 
age, and had left a wife and two children. He had died 
just before midnight, after a few hours illness, so violent, 
that the Arab doctor pronounced it a case of cholera There 
had been several very sudden deaths in H&ifa within a few 
weeks. 

In the course of the day I became very ill. Frfere Joseph, 
the convent doctor, was sent for; he came and administered 
powerful doses of opium. The next day I was worse and 
very weak ; lie ordered emetics and bleeding, but I de- 
cidedly declined both, and dispensed with his attendance. 
My brother prescribed hot baths, and mustard and vinegar 
poultices, and I slept, but grew weaker and weaker. At 
three o'clock on Sunday morning (October 29th), he sent 
his kawass to 'Akka for a doctor, as a last resource ; he 
wrote to the Pasha, and ill as I was I could not help laugh- 
ing at the letter, on hearing it literally translated into 
English. It contained a request that his Excellency would 
allow his private doctor, the Armenian, to proceed to H§,ifa 
to attend the "girl brother of the English Vice-Consul, who 
was attacked with a slight beauty, or prettiness." This is 
the polite Turkish form of alluding to illness, when woman 
is the subject of it. 

Within a short time the doctor came, with strict orders , 

L 



146 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

from tlie Pasha not to leave me tiU I was well ; he spoke 
ItaHan fluently, as well as Turkish and Greek ; he was full 
of persevering, quiet energy and goodwill, which inspired 
me with confi.dence immediately. He administered small 
doses of castor oU, well mixed with sugar, water, gum arabic 
and magnesia, in equal proportions, and prescribed linseed 
and mustard poultices. He prepared stiff, sweet starch and 
some meal porridge with a little magnesia in it, and gave 
them to me in small quantities now and then with lime- 
flower water to drink. He did not leave the house for 
three days and nights, and by Thursday, thanks to his skill 
and Katrine's care, I was quite cured of my " slight pretti- 
ness,'' which was of a dangerous kind, and said to be 
cholera. 

We met with great sympathy from our neighbours. 
On the evening when I first left my room a company of 
singers came on to the terrace to serenade me, improvising 
songs of rejoicing, and praying that I might. soon "walk 
forth in the gardens, to breathe the air with strength and 
gladness of heart." 

On the first of November I saw .an immense number of 
swallows perched on the house-tops and on the ropes of the 
flagstaffs. I was told that they had been gathering there 
for several days. Before evening I saw them all assemble 
and take flight towards the south. They looked like a 
dusky cloud moving swiftly through the air. 

Our friend, Saleh Sakhali, and his family also migrated ; 
they went to Nazareth, for they feared the cholera, and tried 
to persuade us to accompany them. 

The most unhealthy period in Palestine is that which 
occurs after the falling of the first few aoitumnal showers,* 

* The ** early rain" spoken of in the Bible refers, I believe, to the 
autwnmal shmoers, which are never very violent ; they fall gently, and by 
degrees, and revive the parched and bnmt-up earth after the summer 
drought, and enable the peasants to sow wheat and barley. In Deuteronomy 
it is called the ** first rain;** and Joel says : "Be glad and rejoice in the 
Lord yotur God, for he hath given you the former ram moderately." 

The winter rain usually falls heavily during November, December, and 
early in January ; and then it ceases until Ma/reh or AprU, when spring 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINB. 147 

which usher in the rainy season, and it lasts until the 
rain faUs regularly and in abundance. This interval does 
not generally exceed two or three weeks, but when it 
is prolonged (as in the year 1865, of which I am writing), 
fevers or other epidemics prevail . 

On November the second, a strong sirocco wind, hot, dry 
and scorching, as if it came from a furnace, warped our 
books, and split and cracked our olive-wood furniture ; we 
closed all the wijidow-shutters on the eastern side of the 
rooms, but we could not exclude the fiery air. 

There were four English merchant ships at anchor in the 
port, as well as several small Greek brigs ; the masters 
complained, in no very gentle terms, of the injury done by 
the fierce hot wind to the woodwork and fittings of their 
vessels. 

An English captain, on the point of embarking, came in 
saying : " I hope you will give me a clean biU of health, 
Consul** ** As clean as I can," he answered ; "but I must 
state : ' 8ta> deaths within six days — sudden, and reported 
cholera! " 

After this the street cleaning was for a time abandoned, 
and I noticed funeral processions almost daily, sometimes 
going firom the mosque out at the east gate to the Moslem 
burial-ground, .sometimes from the Greek or Latin churches 
slowly walking towards the Christian cemeteries through 
the west gata Moslems are always carried to the grave 
in the open bier,, head foremost, and buried in ordinary 
costume. I shuddered the first time I saw a body thus 
committed to the earth, it looked so much like being 
buried alive. 

showers are eagerly looked for and welcomed, for "they give strength and 
Tigour to the ripenmg crops : this is the " latter rain; " for it is written : 
*' The Lord your Gk>d will cause to come down for you the latter rain in 
the first month," which is the month caUed in Hebrew " Abib," or " the 
month of young ears of com," and corresponds with the end of March and 
the beginning of ApriL 

"Behold the husbandman waiteth for the precious fruit of the earth 
and hath long patience for it, imtil he receive the early and the latter rain." 

In the summer time, that is, from May till September, no rain is ever 
seen in Palestine. 

l2 



148 DOMESTIC UFE IK PALESTINE. 

Christians are interred in coffins. The coffin is usually 
borne by four or six men, preceded by priests walking 
under canopies, and surrounded by crowds of people, 
chanting, bearing embroidered banners and a large cross, 
and sometimes accompanied by surpliced boys, swinging 
incense. At a little distance a troop of women follow, 
singing and screaming wildly ; for the priests in vain put 
their veto on the attendance of female mourners. 

There was not one case of cholera in the Jewish com- 
munity. 

Deaths were most frequent in the crowded Moslem 
quarter, but the Moslems did not seem to suffer much from 
fear. Perhaps their reliance on the doctrine of fatalism 
made them calm and apparently resigned. On the other 
hand, among the Christians, a demoralizing panic quickly 
spread. 

By degrees nearly all the Europeans went up to the 
convent, where they established a strict quarantine ; many 
of the Arabs went to Nazareth and Shefa 'Omer ; altogether, 
above a thousand people fled, and the Christian quarter 
looked quite deserted. It was remarked that there was only 
one hat left in the town fi. e., onlj/ one Frank), alluding to 
my brother, who remained at his post endeavouring to 
reanimate the people. He went from house to house, giving 
advice and simple medicines, and as he was not quite con- 
vinced that the epidemic was cholera he examined two or 
three bodies immediately after death. Their appearance 
confirmed the current report. 

The Arab word for cholera, or the pesth, is " Hotoorel- 
Asfa,'' which signifies the " yellow wind." Hags proclaim- 
ing quarantine are yellow; is it possible that the colour 
was selected on account of this name ? The Arabs told me 
that the worst cases of cholera occurred at the change oi 
the moon, and that people who were attacked then never 
recovered ! The women seldom left their houses, except 
to follow funerals ; and the men grew more and more dis- 
pirited. Even our little tailor, Suleiman Shefa 'Omery, the 
merriest of the merry, the drollest of the droll, was at last 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 149 

infected with the general fear. His springing, self-satisfied 
step became slow and cautious, and his voice was subdued 
to a whisper. He had been in the habit of coming to the 
Vice-Consulate, now and then, to show me his work — 
embroidered jackets and trousers for the trousseau of a 
bride, or a tobacco-pouch for a bek. He was one of my 
many self-constituted teachers, and was at the same time 
profoundly respectful and deferential, and yet amusingly 
impertinent. He was the beau ideal of an Oriental tailor, 
and looked as if he had just walked out of one of the pages 
of the " Arabian Night^' Entertainments " — good-lookiig, 
and quick in every movement ; always ready, unasked, to 
do a service — flight a pipe, trim a lamp, pick up a pencil, 
smooth the pillows and cushions of the divan, feteh a glass 
of water, or proffer an opinion. He looks with a quick and 
critical eye on every one's costume, and values each article 
of apparel unhesitatingly, as if speaking half to himself 
and half to the wearer. 

I used to learn a greater number of Arabic words from 
him in an hour, than from any one else in a day. He 
could neither read nor write, but his memory was acute. 
He remembered perfectly the promiscuous vocabulary which 
he taught me ; and he used to ask me, each time he came, 
the words he had told me on previous occasions ; and at 
every successful answer from me, he glanced round the 
room, expecting a look of app2X)bation for himself, and one 
for his pupU. He showed me how to do all sorts of Syrian 
needlework. He made very beautiful designs for embroi- 
dery, chiefly conventional fpliage. He first stiffens the 
cloth or sUk, by sewing thick paper at the back of it; then, 
with a piece of hard, white native soap, rubbed to a fine 
pomt, he draws, with a firm hand, a few graceful lines and 
intersecting circles within any given space. He completes 
the design, in the course of working it, with gold thread, 
and he never by any chance makes two patterns precisely 
alike. He seemed thoroughly to enjoy his work ; but now 
even he was changed — ^his brave, self-confident spirit had 
left him ; he no longer took delight in his needle or gold 



150 DOMESTIC LIFB IN FALESTINU 

thread. He told me, regretfully, that some of his best 
embroidery was in the burial-ground ; for men and women, 
Moslems and Christians, are often shrouded in their bridal 
robes or fSte-day dresses. Suleiman was one of the few 
Arabs who seemed to think this was a very great pity. 

When costly garments are buried, the grave is generally 
watched for some time, for fear it should be rifled. 

One day we rode up to the Conrent. Two hundred of 
the people of H^ifa had taken refuge thera The gardens, 
which had before looked so quiet and monastic, were 
enlivened by little groups of Arabs, smoking under the 
trees, or strolling about. All the rooms were occupied. 
The French Consul came to meet us, but carefully avoided 
contact, and led the way to the reception-room, where 
pastUes were burning. His wife and children came to 
see us, but remained at a distance. They said that, while 
people were dying of cholera in H§ifa» they, the voluntary 
exiles, were almost expiring of ennui and fear on Mount 
CarmeL 

By degrees, the health of HMfa somewhat improved, and 
a large proportion of cholera cases were cured. Powdered 
charcoal, made of bread burnt in an open crucible, was 
taken by many people as a preventive ; and, as far as I 
could judge, it seemed to be efifectuaL A teaspoonful, or 
less, in a cup of sugarless coffee, was the usual daily dose. 

On November 14«th, we went for a trip in the interior, 
with Colonel and the Hon. Mrs. Walpole. He claimed my 
brother's aid in seeking for winter-quarters for his regi- 
ment He kindly invited me to go too ; so, accompanied 
by his Bashi-Bazouks, and furnished with a circular letter 
of recommendation from the- Pasha to all the governors in 
his pashalic, we went to Shefa 'Omer, Nazareth, round the 
lake of Tiberias, and along the valley of the Jordan, up 
to the Anti-Lebanon, exploring all the old castles and 
ruins ; but we did not come very much in contact with the 
natives. The interest of the tour is chiefly archeeological 
and architectural, so I will pass it over here. We returned 
to Hfiifa on the 10th of December. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 151 

M. Zifo, the Prussian Consul, called to welcome us ; he 
said he was the " only hat in town," and he was detained 
by business, much against his inclination, for cholera and 
typhus-fever prevailed. All the people were praying for 
rain. For three dftys after our return, there was not one 
death in the town, and some of the refugees came from the 
Convent. The French Consul was one of the first arrivals ; 
but, unhappily, his youngest daughter, the pet and play- 
thing of the family, who used to lisp out Arabic and 
French so prettily, was immediately attacked with cholera^ 
and died after twelve hours' suffering. On the 15th the panic 
was revived ; hut a curious circumstance suddenly restored 
tranquillity to the minds of the Arabs. On the night of 
Sunday, the 16th of December, a woman dreamt that she 
saw four malignant imps ; each one held a stone, with an 
inscription on it, in his hand. She said to them, " What do 
you want ? why are you here to trouble me ? " They said, 
speaking as with one voice, " We have come to throw four 
stones." Then she said, "Hasten to throw your stones, 
and go in peace." One was thrown at her ; the others flew 
in different directions. She told her dream the next day, 
and seemed very much alarmed. The imps of her dream 
were said, by the interpreters thereof, to be " imps of the 
yellow wind'' The majority of the people believed that there 
would be only four more deaths in HSifa from cholera. 
On the 18th, fourteen individuals were attacked ; but only 
two died, one of whom was the dreamer. On the 19th,; 
there were two more deaths, the last which were reported. 
The people were reassured, and flocked back from 'Akka, 
GaUlee, and CarmeL But the wished-for season of rain 
had not set in ; provisions were dear, and milk was very 
unwholesome, on account of the scarcity of herbage. 

Several ships from Yafa had taken refuge in the port of 
Haifa. The winds were so wild and contrary, that two 
ships were wrecked off 'Akka, and two boats lost in the 
bay. The west wind was so strong for a day or two, that 
it filled the mouth of the river Kishon with sand, so 
that it could be crossed easily on foot. Then suddenly the 



152 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

east wind rose, and swept the bar of sand quite away, so 
that the river was twelve feet deep at the usual place of 
fording, and consequently impassable. 

At Christmas, the rain came ; but it was rain such as 
I had never seen, except in strange 61d pictures . of the 
Deluge. The town was traversed in all directions by rapid 
streams of mud and water ; rain came in at the ill-made 
windows, and our shutters and doors were wrenched from 
their hinges by the wild wind. Fortunately, the house for 
which we had been waiting was now ready, and weather- 
tight; and we managed to move in during the short inter- 
vals between the torrents. I had to ride there, although it 
was only at a very short distance. Most of the Arabs 
went about barefooted, with the water far above their 
ankles. 

During the wet season, there were about three days of 
nearly continual rain, and three days of sunshine, alter- 
nately. 

Our new house, the rooms of which were built round a 
corridored court, was next door to the French consulate. 
The Consul's wife (a Syrian lady) kindly initiated me by 
degrees into all the mysteries of Oriental housekeeping. 

Furnishing was a very simple affair. In one of the large 
empty rooms a native Jewish upholsterer was set to work 
to take to pieces aU the mattresses, cushions, and lehaflfs ; 
then, with a little machine, he separated the cotton which 
had become hard and close; he tore it and combed it till it 
was transformed into a fleecy cloud. 

He quickly re-made the mattresses, fitting them to the 
iron bedsteads and divans, and cleverly qmlted a stock of 
coverlets (lehafifs). His naked feet were almost as busy as 
his fingers; they served him to hold his work; and when 
he wanted to wind a skein of cotton he always fixed it on 
his long, pliant, toes, and used them as pegs when he doubled 
and twisted the thread ; in fact, in many ways he made them 
useful. In the meantime an Arab carpenter was engaged 
in sawing planks and joining them together, ready to place 
on low trestles round the rooms. On the rude benches thus 



BOMESnC UFE US PALESTINE. 153 

formed, mattresses, about a yard wide, and cushions covered 
with chintz or Manchester prints, were arranged ; deep, full 
borders sewn on to the outer edge of the mattresses, quite 
concealed ihe rough woodwork underneath. This is all the 
mystery of the grand Turkish divans. Two native Jewesses 
assisted me with the mosquito and window curtains. 

Eeed mats, to cover the cemented and stone floors, were 
made for us at 'Akka according to measure. I furnished one 
little room as nearly in English style as I could under the 
circumstances, but the rest of the house was semi-oriental. 
There were no fireplaces in any of the rooms ; in the 
kitchen there was a row of cooking stoves fit for stewing 
and baking ; similar, probably, to " the oven and ranges for 
potSj'* referred to in Leviticus xi 35. 

There was a good well in the comer of the court, and a 
little bell tinkled merrily every time the bucket was in 
motion. The former occupants of the house were Arabs, 
and they had left for my benefit a fine henna-tree (lawsonia). 
It is very like the privet, but the blossom is more yellow 
and deUcate, and the scent is rather oppressive. The green 
leaves (which produce the dye) are dried, crumbled to a 
fine powder, and carefully preserved. 

The stocking of the storeroom was the next considera- 
tioa It soon contained provisions for the winter : a case 
of maccaroni, a basket of Egyptian rice, two sacks of 
wheat, one of which I sent to be ground, by mill-stones 
moved by cattle. Afterwards I had the meal sifted at the 
house, the smeed was set apart for white bread, &c. and 
the remainder was stored for niaking Arab loaves for 
the servants. 

The large terra cotta jars, glazed inside, and rough 
without, ranged round the room, often made me think of 
Ali Baba and the forty thieves. One held the smeed, 
another held flour, another bran, a fourth oil, and some 
rather smaller ones contained olives and goats'-milk cheese 
preserved in oil, and a store of cooking butter. Oranges 
and lemons garnished the shelves; dried figs strung on thin 
cord, and pomegranates tied one by one to ropes, hung in 



154 DOMESTIC XIFB US PALESTINE; 

festoons from the rafters, and the bundles of dried herhs of 
Carmel smelt sweetly. 

My kind neighbour taught me how to add to my stores 
at the right seasons, to make fruit preserves, to concentrate 
the essence of tomatoes, and to convert wheat into starch (by 
steeping it in water, straining it, and drying it in the sun) 
for making sweet dishes, as well as for the laundry. The 
Arabs do not starch or iron their clothes, so I had a little 
difi5culty at first in procuring help in the '* getting up " of 
fine linen. However, an Arab youth, who had once lived 
with a semi-European tailor, and professed to know how to 
handle an iron, though he acknowledged that starching was 
a mystery to him, volunteered assistance, and did his best. 
Subsequently a yoimg Arab girl in our service was taught 
the art by an Abyssinian slave, the servant of a European 
neighbour, and she became very skilful. 

Arabs only use starch for making a sort of blancmange, 
and they shrink from the idea of stiffening linen with it, 
for they have a strong respect for wheat in any shape. If 
a morsel of bread fall to the ground, an Arab will gather 
it up with his right hand, kiss it, touch his forehead with 
it, and place it in a recess or on a wall, where the fowls of 
the air may find it, for they say : " We must not tread 
under foot the gift of Ood*' I have seen this reverence 
exhibited constantly, by all classes of the people, by 
masters, servants, and even by little children, Moslems and 
Christians. 

I was so busy that I had no time to feel my strange 
isolation. The mornings were devoted to household arrange- 
ments and lessons in Arabic, afternoon to visiting or visitors, 
and in fine weather a ride or a stroll with my brother before 
sunset, and pleasant evenings with him and his friends. 
When we were at last alone together we used to compare 
notes of our several occupations, observations, and adven- 
tures of the day. His long residence in the East enabled 
him to explain some of the intricacies and seeming contrar 
dictions in the characters of the Arabs, and to guide me in 
my intercourse with them. In outline during the winter 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN t>AL£STINE; 155 

one day nearly resembled another, but the details were 
always pleasantly varied, 

Abrahim Sakhali, my brother s secretary, and also my 
writing-master, an energetic, clever young man of the 
Greek church, went to 'Akka like many others to avoid 
cholera. 'Akka was over-crowded, and smaU-pox broke 
out; poor Abrahim caught it, and died suddenly on the 
16th of January, 1856. His death threw a gloom over 
H^ifa, for he was a general favourite among Christians and 
Moslems. 

On the 17th, early in the morning, Khaltl Sakhali (the 
father of Abrahim) called on us. He was a very stout, 
tall, robust-looking man, and wore a long robe or open 
pelisse, and a large white turban; his features were regular, 
and his beard long and white. He looked grand in his 
grief, and his lamentations for his dead son were solemn 
and dignified. He, with my brother and the chief people 
of our town, went towards 'Akka to join the foneral cortege, 
for it was arranged that the body should be brought to 
H^a for burial All the horses ^and donkeys were in 
requisition, and nearly all the shops were closed. I walked 
out to witness the wailing of the widow and her com- 
panions. They were outside the East Gate, near the burial 
ground ; about fifty or sixty veiled women surrounded the 
chief mourners. I was led almost imconsciously by little 
Katrine Sakhali through the crowd to an open space in the 
midst. In th^ centre of this space the widow, young and 
beautiful, knelt on the ground; she was unveiled, her head 
was only covered by a little red cloth cap, her long hair was 
unbraided, and fell over her green velvet, gold-embroidered 
jacketi She swayed her body to and fro, tossed her head 
back, raised her hands as if passionately pleading, then 
threw herself forward with her face to the ground, but 
suddenly started to her feet, and with her dark eyes 
uplifted, and her arms raised above her head, she com- 
menced shrieking wildly, and aU the women joined in the 
piercing cry. Presently she fell down as if exhausted, and 
there was silence for a moment Then a, few of the women 



156 DOMESTIC LUTE IN FiXESTINE. 

in the inner circle rose, threw off their veils, and danced 
round her, singing, and making a rattling, tremulous sound 
from the throat, while the rest of the women joined in 
chorus. Professional mourners kept up the excitement by 
demonstrations of violent grief, and the professional singers 
improvised appropriate songs. This lasted for three or four 
hours, and the crowd gradually grew larger. I made my 
way through it with dijficulty, for some of the women had 
worked themselves into fits of frenzy and hysterics. 

I observed that the men who passed by kept quite 
aloof from this group of mourners, and made no attempt 
to look upon the unveiled widow. My kawass stood afar 
off, waiting for ma On emerging from the crowd, I could 
see the funeral cortige approaching along the sands. I 
was informed by a forerunner, that the body of Abrahhn 
had been interred in the 'Akka burial-ground^ as it was 
considered dangerous to convey it so far as H&ifa. When 
the procession was nejtr to the town, I went up on to the 
low roof of the custom-house to see it pass. First came 
the kawasses of some of the Consuls, carrying their long 
silver-headed sticks or poles draped with black; then a 
large party of young men, dressed in various colours, 
solemnly silent, walking four abreast At a little distance 
from these, Abrahlm's horse, without a rider, was led by 
two men slowly and carefully. Some of poor Abrahim's 
well-remembered garments were on the saddle. 

The three brothers of Abrahlm followed i^ a line ; tihien 
came his nephews and cousins, among whom was our friend 
Saleh, all looking thoughtful and sacL The next mourner 
was the mother. She sat cross-legged on a horse, sup- 
ported by two men. Her face was veiled, but her drooping 
head expressed her grief, — she had lost her favourite son. 
My brother, who had a great respect both for her and the 
deceased, rode by her side. Mohammed Bek followed, on 
a splendid white horse, surrounded by a group of Moslems ; 
then came the 'Akka mourners, headed by the Giammal 
family, all on foot. Last of all, the father, looking heart* 
broken, rode slowly towards his bereaved home. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 157 

When all the men were out of sight, the company of 
women entered the gates, shrieking and singing. My 
kawass retreated hastily, and a yonng Greek of Scio, who 
was by my side, said : " You can remain here to see them 
pass, but it would not be proper for me to do so — ^men 
do not watch processions of female mourners ; " and he 
retired. 

First came a group of dancers, only slightly veiled, 
making slow and graceful movements, and waving scarfs 
and kerchiefs, pausing now and then in strange attitudes, 
resting for a quarter of a minute at a time like statues, 
and then singing and shrieking wildly, all the company 
joining in the chorus. The young widow walked alone, 
followed by two attendants who carried the orphan chil- 
dren. This group was surrounded at a little distance by 
the nearest female relatives of Abrahtm ; an irregular 
crowd of women and girls closed the procession, loudly 
echoing the songs of the leaders. Thus they went slowly 
through the town ; and there was loud wailing and mourn- 
ing in the house of Sakhali for seven days. Sut to the 
silent grief of the mother there was no limit She lived 
next door to the Consulate, and I often saw her. She was 
completely changed. Her firm step had suddenly become 
faltering, and her head drooped. She seldom spoke, and her 
only words were words of lamentation and despair. Little 
Katrine, the daughter of our friend Saleh, touchingly de- 
scribed her great grief, saying, — " I think our aunt will die. 
She has no thought but for Abrahim. She does not wish 
to see any one but Abrahim. Always she is kissing his 
coat, his cap, and his gun. Always her face is wet with 
tears, and she will not be comforted. She cannot eat, and 
at night she is awake; only a little in the daytime she 
falls asleep, tired of crying and of folding and unfolding 
aU his clothes. No one can make her glad now." 

Little Katrine's fears were realized. The mother of 
Abrahim died on the 13th of February, fretting to the 
last for her dead son. I attended her funeral the next 
day. At an early hour I saw the procession form. Men 



158 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

carrying banners, embroidered with sax^red emblems and 
monograms, led the way. Then came the Greek priests ; 
one of them bore a large, gilt, wooden cross. The body 
was in a dark cofiin, on which three white crosses were 
conspicuous ; it was supported by six men. The male 
mourners were headed by the widower and his three sons ; 
and the women followed afar off. A large number of 
people lined the road aU the way to the church, and fell in 
with the funeral cortSge as it passed. 

The bell was tolling as I entered the church. I went 
up into the women's gallery, which is very high, and op- 
posite to the altar. I was led to the front of it, where a 
block of wood was given to me for a seat ; the women, all 
veiled and in white sheets, sat around on the matted floor. 
I looked down into the church, through a sloping wooden 
lattice, at an angle of about twenty degrees with the ceil- 
ing, and so arranged that a view of what was going on 
below could only be obtained by leaning forward over 
this lattice, and with the face nearly close to it. Thus 
positioned, I could see easily. 

The chancel was already crowded. A few European 
gentlemen, in dark clothes, looked conspicuous among the 
Arabs in their many coloured garments. The chief female 
mourners, shrouded in white, were grouped altogether on 
one side. The coffin, raised on high trestles, stood in the 
centre ; a narrow space was left round it. A priest stood 
at its head, slowly swinging a censor, while two others 
chanted Psalms, and read the Service monotonously and 
mutteringly : the people responded loudly. 

Wax candles were distributed by the younger members 
of the Sakhali family to every one present. There were 
about 300, and a strange effect was produced when all the 
candles, as well as the tapers fixed round the coffin, were 
lighted. Some looked pale and spirit-like in the sun- 
shine, others were obscured in clouds of incense, .while 
the rest illuminated dark comers, made darker by the 
dense crowd. 

EJialll Sakhalin the widower, and his three sons, sat 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINIT. 159 

together in a conspicuous position near the door of the 
sacristy : every one else was standing. 

In obedieSe to a signal from the chief priest, an 
opening was made in the crowd towards them. After a 
few minutes of perfect silence, the widower walked unob- 
structed into the centre of the church. He placed his 
hands solemnly on the coffin, pressed his broad forehead on 
to the head of it, pronounced a blessing, kissed a little 
Byzantine picture of Christ which was placed there, and 
then, returned to his seat, bending his head low. After 
another silent pause, the three sons followed his example ; 
and all the nearest relatives came forward to kiss the 
picture. After the youngest child of the family had been 
lifted up to take this farewell, the rest of the congregation 
crowded round, and with less emotion and more haste per- 
formed the same ceremony. 

By degrees all but the chief mourners withdrew, and 
then I went down into the church with the women. . One 
by one they kissed the picture, muttering a short prayer 
for the repose of the soul of the deceased. 

Presently the procession re-formed and went out at the 
West Gate to the Greek burial-ground, the women followed 
afar ofif singing and crying wildly; and again for many 
days there was mourmng in the house of SakhalL 

But the widower did not reject consolation. About a year 
afterwards he sent messengers to Nazareth to seek for a wife 
for him, and when all was rightly arranged, he went there 
to be affianced. But a monetary difficulty arose and the 
contract was annulled ; so another bride was sought and 
quickly chosen, for Khalil said he was determined not to 
be disappointed nor to be a laughing stock in HS^if a ; and 
he was after all actually betrothed on the very day first 
fixed for the ceremony, and the marriage took place soon 
after. 

The bridegroom was about seventy, and the bride a^ven- 
teen ! I called to welcome the young wife to Hllifa. She 
was very good-looking, but quite of the peasant class. She 
had a bright face, the forehead and chin were tattooed. 



160 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

Her eyebrows were naturally black and well arched, and 
her eyelashes very long, so that no kohl was necessary 
(this peculiarity is expressed in Arabic in one word, 
" khala"). Her countenance was ruddy, and the women said 
of her : " The wife of Khalil is fair, roses grow upon her 
cheeks ; she does not buy her roses in the bazaar." This 
is also said of the women of Shefa 'Omer, who are generally 
bright and healthy in appearance, and use rouge but 
rarely. 

Khalil was comforted ; his three sons and their wives, 
with their little ones, dwelt with him under the same roof, 
and there was rejoicing in the house when a son was born 
to him in his old age. 

EUas SakhaH, the eldest son of Khalil, was studious, 
thoughtful, clear-headed and logical, and universally liked 
by Christians and Moslems. He was employed in the French 
Consulate. He came very often to see us, and was eager to 
obtain inf6rmation about the English constitution, and the 
progress of civilization generally. He always had some 
amusing story or impressive parable to tell me when he 
found me alone. Many of them were original; I carefully 
chronicled all. 

He often spoke to me on the subject of the government 
of Syria. He said that there was no opportunity for the 
people to rise out of their present condition, while they are 
ruled by oiB&cers who have no sympathy with them, no 
love for the country, and no object but to enrich themselves. 
The Arabs, under the present system of irregular taxation, 
do not attempt to cultivate the land as they would do if 
they were encouraged and protected by the government. 
In many parts of the country a man will not run the 
risk of improving his estate. He will not plant new olive 
trees, nor extend his orchards and vineyards, nor employ 
many labourers, for fear of exciting the rapacity of the 
governor of his district ; for if a man is supposed to be rich, 
excuses are readily invented to impoverish him ; debts are 
coined, or false accusations are made against him, and he 
is thrown into prison till he pays the supposed debt or a 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 161 

laige fine. In one particular instance, the governor of a 
certain Moslem village, having exceeded even the usual 
bounds of exaction, a united complaint was made to the 
Pasha by the indignant villagers. The Pasha, for the sake 
of appearances, immediately appointed a new governor. 
He tried and imprisoned the offender for a few days, but 
soon made arrangements with him and set him free, after 
having accepted as a bribe a large proportion of the 
property which the ex-governor had so unjustly obtained. 

I have heard of many similar transactions, and some- 
times the actors have been well known to me, so that I 
have had an opportunity of hearing both sides of the story. 
Nearly all the Turks with whom I came in contact Seemed 
to glory in successful intrigue, and were generally shrewd 
and clever. They had little or no sympathy with the Arabs, 
and apparently no true patriotism. There are very few 
Turks in Palestine, except civil officers and their emphyia, 
military officers, and soldiers ; they are looked upon always 
as foreigners. 

Pashas and governors do not remain long or for any 
fixed time in one place. Wherever they go, they, with few 
exceptions, "tread upon the poor, and take from them 
burdens of wheat ; they afilict the just, and take a bribe." 
They naturally favour the Moslems, but money is their 
chief consideration. They not only injure the people they 
are appointed to protect, but they rob the Government 
they are employed to serve. 

If appointments were given with appropriate salaries, to 
men of honour and energy, fitted for office, instead of being 
sold to speculators^ there would be hope for Syria. Crime 
would be punished and innocence protected, in spite of 
patronage and piastres. 

Elias severely felt the disadvantageous position of his 
countrymen. They live in a land overrun by Bedouins, 
where there is no security for property, no encouragement 
for agriculturists ; where there are no roads and very few 
modem books ; where offices are purchased, laws tampered 
with, justice disregarded, and industry and commercial 

M 



162 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

enterprise cheeked. I could not help sympathising with 
him, especially as I by degrees became better acquainted 
with the capabilities of the Arab mind, and the wonderful 
fertility of the country. Under more favourable circum- 
stances and better cultivation each would flourish. Elias 
admitted that oppression had demoralized the people to 
a lamentable extent. Their powers and talents were 
misapplied, their ingenuity and inventive faculties were 
displayed in artful cunning and clever intrigue. Their 
powers of endurance and self-sacrifice had grown into 
seeming apathy and indifference, their love of poetry and 
of the marvellous had been trifled with by teachers of 
strange doctrines and conflicting traditions, and their 
imaginations were encumbered with wUd superstitions. 

When EKas spoke thus despocndingly, no such man as 
Fuad Pasha had been in Syria to inspire the hope of a better 
state of things. EUas was always ready to answer patiently 
and carefully my many questions. During nearly three years 
I was in the habit of seeing him frequently. In August, 
1858, he went to Beirut on business ; he was not well 
when he left home, and on Wednesday, the 1st of Sep- 
tember, news was brought to H&ifa that he was dead, and 
had been buried at Beirftt. This was a new and terrible 
affliction for the Sakhali family, for Elias was looked up 
to as the ruler and manager of the house. Khalll, the 
aged father, felt the loss acutely, and the widow was quite 
prostrated ; grief bewildered and almost stupefied her — 
she could not even weep. " Call for the mourning women, 
that they may come ; and for such as are skilful in lamen- 
tation, that they may come : and let them make haste, and 
take up a wailing for us, that our eyes may run down with 
tears, and our eyelids gush out with waters." And again 
there were seven days of weeping in the house of Sakhali 
(See Jeremiah ix, 17, 18.) 

I joined the mourners on the third day. Directly I 
entered the house, I heard the minstrels and the loud cries 
of the people. (See Matt. ix. 23.) I was led into a large 
long room. Women were sitting on the floor in rows on 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN TALESTINK. 163 

two sides of it ; an open space was left down the middle to 
the end of the room, where the widow sat apart, with her 
two youngest children lying at her feet. Her hair was 
dishevelled, and she wore no covering on her head; her 
eyelids were swollen with weeping, and her face pale with 
watching : she looked as if she had suddenly grown old. 
Her dress was rent and disordered ; she had not rested or 
changed her garments since she heard the tidings of her 
husband's death. She kissed me passionately, and said : 
" Weep for me, he is dead : " and then pointing to her 
children, she said : " Weep for them, they are fatherless/' 
I sat near to her. One of her children, who was about 
three years old, crept into my lap, and whispered : ** My 
father is dead.'' Then he closed his eyes, and pressed his 
chubby little fingers tightly over them, saying: " My father 
is dead like this — he is in the dark'' 

The waUing, which had been slightly interrupted at my 
entrance, was renewed with vigour. The assembled women 
were all in their gayest dresses, soft crimson silk with white 
stripes on it prevailing. There were many women from 
Nazareth and Shefa 'Omer and other villages. They had 
uncovered their heads and unbraided their hair. They 
looked dreadfally excited, their eyes were red with weep- 
ing and watching, and the air of the room was close and 
heated, for the widow and chief mourners had remained 
there for three days and two nights without rest, receiving 
guests who came to mourn with them. The room was 
always filled, for as soon as one set of people left another 
set came in. During my visit there were seventy-three 
mourners present, without reckoning the children who 
glided in and out. 

Three rows of women sat on the matted floor on the 
right-hand side, facing three rows on the left. They 
were all clapping their hands or striking their bosoms 
in time with the monotonous melody which they mur- 
mured. 

Presently an especial lamentation was commenced, to 
which I was invited to respond 

m2 



164 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

m 

I was still seated at the end of the room, near to the 
widow. The women on my left hand (led by a celebrated 
professional mourner) sang these words with vigour and 
energy : — 

** We saw him, in the midgt of the company of riders, - 
Biding brayely on his horse, the horse he loyed ! " 

Then the women on the opposite side of the room answered 
in a lower and more plaintive key, beating their breasts 
mournfully : — 

** Alas ! no more shall we see him 
In the midst of the company of riders, 
Riding brayely on his horse, the horse he loyed." 

Then the first singers sang :— 

"We saw him in the garden, the pleasant garden. 
With his companions, and his children, tiie childrMi he loyed.** 

Then the second singers answered : — 

''Alas ! no -more shaU we see him 
In the garden^ the pleasant garden, ^ 
With his companions, and his children, the children he loyed. ' 

Chorus of all the women, singing softly: — 

" His children and his servants blessed him ! 
His home was the shelter of happiness ! 
Peace be upon him t " 

First singers (loudly and with animation) : — 

'' We saw him giying food to the hungry, 
And clothing to- the naked ! " 

Second singers (softly and plaintively) : — 

" Alas 1 no more shall we see him 
Giye food to the hungry. 
And garments to the naked f " 

First singers : — 

" We saw him giye help and succour to the aged, 
And good coimsel to the young.' 

Second singers : — 



,»*' 



''Alas .* no more shall we see him 
Giye help and succour to the aged, 
And good counsel to the young." 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 165 

Chorus of all the women, singing softly : — 

" He suffered not the stranger to sleep in the streets : 
He opened his door to the wayfarer. 
Peace be upon him." 

After this, they started to their feet and shrieked as 
loudly as they could, making a rattling noise in their 
throats for three or four minutes ; while the widow knelt, 
swaying her body backwards and forwards and feebly 
joining in the wild cry. 

Some of the women reseated themselves on the floor 
quite exhausted, some retired, and a number of guests 
from ' Akka came in and took the vacant places. A minstrel 
woman began slowly beating a tambourine, and all the 
company clapped their hands in measure with it, singing : . 
" Alas for him ! alas for him ! He was brave, he was good, 
alas for him ! '* &c. Then three women rose, with naked 
swords in their hands, and stood ai two or three yards' dis- 
tance from each other. They began dancing with slow and 
graceful movements, with their swords at first held low and 
their heads drooping. Each dancer kept within a circle of 
about a yard in diameter. By degrees the tambourine and 
the clapping of the hands and the songs grew louder, the 
steps of the dancers were quickened, they threw back their 
heads and gazed upwaids passionately as if they would 
look into the very heavens. They flourished their uplifted 
swords, and as their movements became more wild and 
excited, the bright steel flashed and bright eyes seemed to 
grow brighter. As one by one the dancers sank overcome 
with fatigue, others rose to replace them. Thus passed 
seven days and nights. Professional mourners were in 
constant attendance to keep up the excitement, and dances 
and dirges succeeded each other with intervals of wild and 
hysterical weeping and shrieking. I remained about two 
hours in the room, and occasionally I watched from a 
window which overlooked it. I could see that the leader 
had a powerful influence over all present ; a certain tone 
of her wild wailing voice drew tears from the eyes and 
produced hysterical emotion in some cases. 



166 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE.- 

There are girls who have a morbid taste for the excite- 
ment thus produced, and are celebrated for the facility 
with which they fall into fits of uncontrollable weeping. 
The real mourners and the amateur actresses in these 
scenes are usually ill afterwards, but the professional 
assistants do not appear to suffer from the fatigue or 
excitement, and they do not lose their self-control for a 
moment. 

Poor Khalll Sakhali never quite recovered the shock 
caused by this death. It became an epoch from which 
to reckon events throughout the district where Elias had 
been so well known and so much respected. It was usual 
to say, " Such an event occurred before or after the death of 
Eliasr And there was a sayiag current in HS,ifa to the 
effect that "the men of the 'Sakhali famUy die always 
among strangers and av/ay from home ;" but I suppose the 
spell is broken now, for Khalll, the old man, died in his 
own house, in January, 1860. I was not in H&ifa at the 
time, but I was informed that Khalll had been staying 
at 'Akka and was very iU there. On his way back to 
Haifa in a very weak state, while riding along the sands, 
he was thrown from his horse and so much injured 
that he was carried home and died in three days. My 
brother went to the funeral, and in a letter to me he spoke 
of it thus : — 

"I never in this neighbourhood saw a funeral so nume- 
rously attended. The church as well as the court without 
was completely crowded. Seven priests (four of whom 
had come from a considerable distance for the purpose) 
chanted the appointed psalms, and the burial service was 
performed as usuaL After the Epistle, Gospel, and Absolu- 
tion had been read, the chief priest said to the congregation, 
*Dear brethren and children, Khalll Sakhali was a man 
who lived very long in this world. He has had a great deal 
of business and hgis been in communication with a great 
number of people. It is possible that in certain trans- 
actions he may have given cause for offence. Some people 
may have felt themselves insulted, some may have been 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 167 

grieved or offended, either with or without reason. This 
now is the time for pardon, and I hereby beseech you all 
present, and by the blessing of God I implore you all, to 
pardon him fully, to forgive him all offences as youhope to 
be forgiven.' The whole congregation then answered: ^May 
Ood pardon himV^^ 

This ceremony of asking pardon of the living for the 
dead is observed in a slight degree at all burials among the 
Greeks, but it is not generally so emphatically expressed or 
so enlarged upon as in the case of Khalll. He was a man 
of great, influence. He was the founder of the Greek Church 
in H&ifa ; and the only good houses in the town belonged 
to him or to members of his family. 



CHAPTEE VIII. 

THE history of the Sakhali family has led me away 
from my own. I will return to the time when we 
hastened into our new house on account of the commence- 
ment of the winter rains— Christmas, 1855. 

On the 30th of December, after three days and nights of 
almost incessant rain, a bright sunshiny afternoon tempted 
us out. We passed through the west gate, and the sudden 
change which had taken place in the appearance of the 
country surprised me exceedingly. The ground, which had 
lately looked so brown and parched, cracked into fissures 
by the summer heat, w^s now carpeted with vividly green 
grass and tiny leaves. Many large slabs of rock, which had 
before been concealed by earth, were now laid bare. The 
tombs in the Greek and Latin cemeteries, the broad stone 
threshing-floors on the sloping plain, the masses of rock 
around and on the terraced hill-sides, washed by the recent 
torrents, looked brightly white. 

We climbed the castle hill, just behind HHifa. White, 
yellow, and purple crocuses were growing round the roots 
of the trees, under the shelter of rocks, and in the midst 
of leafless thorn-bushes ; * while the glossy green leaves of 
flags, arums, squills, and cyclamen were unfolding and 
shooting up everywhere. 

We looked down on to the town ; thousands of birds, chiefly 
sparrows, were on the house-tops (the flat roofs of which 
are composed of massive beams of wood, crossed by planks, 
poles, and brushwood, overspread with earth and small 

* '* The lily among thorns," Song of Solomon, il 2. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINK 169' 

stones, rolled firm and smooth). In preparation for the 
winter rains the roofs had all been newly covered with 
mortar made of earth, brought from the common or unin- 
closed land of the hills, well mixed with straw. The newly- 
disturbed earth, rich in bulbs and grass, and wild-flower 
seeds, had naturally attracted the birds, and as I watched 
them pecking and twittering there, I felt the significancy 
of the expression in the Psalms, which refers to the 
** sparrow on the housetop" 

On the 30th of January, soon after sunrise, several little 
boys came with large bunches of the ^'narojus," ie. the 
yellow narcissus, a favourite flower of the Arabs. The boys 
asked for " backshish," and said, "We have brought these 
flowers because they are called by the name of the Consul." 
Then I understood why many Arabs, especially children, 
called us " Narojus," instead of Eogers, In the afternoon, I 
went on to the hills, where narcissus and wild hyacinths 
were growing in profusion ; goats were leaping and skipping 
from rock to rock, and enjoying the plentiful pasture. I 
looked down on to the town ; its appearance was perfectly 
changed. Out of the lately-made roofs of earth, fresh green 
grass had sprung, so that every house-top looked like a grass 
plat, and on some of them lambs and kids were feeding. 

But these grass- grown roofs are rarely sound enough to 
keep out the rain ; we often heard our neighbours complain^ 
ing of water pouring in torrents into their rooms, and I have 
sometimes been roused in the night by an unexpected 
sprinkling. Patches of fresh eaxth are added from time to 
time, and the roofs are roUed occasionally with a heavy 
stone, like a common garden-roller. One is usually kept on 
the top of each house or block of houses. 

When I went out on the 11th of February, I saw 
labourers busy in the plain, at the foot of the Carmel Hills. 
Large patches of land were being ploughed. The rich 
brown earth was thrown up by clumsy-looking plough- 
shares, dragged by oxen. Boys were employed in gathering 
out stones from tracts of land, round which men were 
building low rough stone walls. New hedges of prickly 



170 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

pears were being planted round gardens and orchards, 
thus : — A stone Wall, about a quarter of a yard high, is 
made, and then- quite covered with earth. Along the top 
of the bank thus formed, portions of the cactus stems are 
planted, about a foot apart. These stems are green and 
broad, and so flat and jointed that they loek lifce large 
rounded leaves joined together. In some places the *ain 
had washed away the earth, and I could see the roots 
shooting out from the edges of the stems. The growth of 
this species of the cactus (Opuntia) is so rapid, that a bank 
thus planted beoomeSi in the course of one season, a very 
formidable hedge. Its blossom is yellow, and it yields the 
pleasant, cooling fruit, called "prfckly pear," or "Indian 
fig." The Arabs call it " Suhber," i.e, *' patience" on account 
of the care and patience required in gathering and peeling 
it; for it is covered with spines and fine stinging haits, and 
the plant is armed everywhere with large sharp thorns ; in 
spite of this, the camel feeds on it freely. Even in the driest 
seasons, the stems are juicy, andj when- pierced, moisture 
oozes out plentifully. It is the natural home of the cochi- 
neal insect ; but the cultivation of this valuable article of 
commerce is, unfortunately, neglected in Palestine: 

The blossoming arum, the blue iris, squills, and daffodils 
were growing so abundantly in the burial-ground, that the 
sides of the tombs were quite concealed. Oa the un- 
ploughed land of the plain, and on the hiU-sides, I found 
anemones, ranunculuses, marigolds, ground-ivy, cyclamen, 
and many other wild flowers. The thorn-bushes, which 
during the summer and autumn had been so dark and 
bare, were clothed with delicate green sprays of finely- 
serrated leaves, which almost hid the sharp, cruel-looking 
thorns. They were sprinkled with litile round buds — when 
they opened, they threw out silky tufts of crimson, crowned 
with golden-coloured powder. The seed-vessel is round, 
and divided into four quarters ; at first it is almost white, 
but gradually becomes pink ; and at the apex there is a 
little green tuft, in the shape of a Greek cross. When the 
seed is quite ripe, it is about half an inch in diameter, and 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 171 

of a deep sliining red colonr. I had been told it was of 
this thorn that the wreath was made which once crowned 
the head of Christ. It may be so ; and I have never seen 
a plant of which so beautiful, and at the same time so 
cruel, a crown could be composed. This thorn is the 
Poterium spirmsum^ 

About Easter, it is seen in all its beauty, the leaves 
glossy and full-grown, the fruit or seed-vessels brilliantly 
red, like drops of blood, and the thoHis sharper and stronger 
than at any other time. No plant or bush is so common 
on the hiQs of Judaea, Galilee, and Garmel as this. It is 
used extensively for fuel, especially for the bakers' ovens, 
and " the crackling cf thoims under a pot " may often be 
heard in Palestine. 

The gardens and orchards looked very beatitiful. Almond 
trees were ftdl of blossom. Lemon and shaddock trees were 
laden with fruit. He winter rains were over ; « flowers 
appeared on the earth, the time of the singing of birds had 
come, and the voice of the tuirtle was heard in the land." 
And again the appearance of the town of Hlifa was per- 
fectly changed ; the last few days of warmth and uninter- 
rupted sunshine had qtdte withered and burnt up all " the 
grass on the house-tops,*' so that there was not a green spot 
left. Boys and girls were gathering the short yellow hay ; 
but there was very little of it, for the grass had not had 
time to grow up fully, or put Ibrth its seed ;• and the 
harvest on the house-tops was mere child's play, " where 
the mower filleth, not his handy nor he that birideth sheaves 
his bosom^ (Psalm cxxix. 6—8.) 

On the 19th of February, early in the morning, a young 
Bedouin brought me a large wooden bowlful of clotted 
cream, and announced the coming of four men of his tribe. 
While he spoke, they entered. They were rejoicing, on 
account of the abundance of milk which their flocks yielded, 
now that they were at pasture on the Carmel range. They 
were very dark, and wore long white cotton shirts with 
wide sleeves; and loose, heavy camel-hair cloaks. They 
seemed to be rather taken by surprise by the looking-glass, 



172 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINB. 

in which they could see themselves at foU length. The 
one who seemed to be the chief of the party invited me to 
visit him, with the Consul, at hie tents, at an hour's dis- 
tance from H&ifa. In answer to imy questions, 'he told me 
that there were several women at the encampment, and 
that they were busy making stores of cooking butter. The 
cream is shaken in goats' skins, and afterwards boiled; 
and when the milk and whey are completely extracted, the 
butter will keep good for a very long time (at this season 
the markets are always well supplied by the peasantry and 
Bedouins together, and during the spring, housekeepers 
refill their butter jars with a store for the summer and 
autumn). One of these Bedouins carried a lance, about 
twelve feet long ; at the top of it there were two round 
tufts of black ostrich feathers, about one foot apart. The 
upper tuft was fringed with little white feathers. Between 
the tufts, strips of scarlet cloth were twisted. The lance 
was so heavy that I could not lift it ; it was of wood, with 
a metal barb. All the men wore large red and yellow 
silk striped kefias (i.e, fringed shawls) on their heads, 
fastened round the crown with a thick rope, and put on 
like hoods. They all had high pointed red leather boots, 
which, however, they took off at the door. One man dis- 
played a heavy silver ring on his finger; a name was 
roughly engraved on it. The wearer said, "Salute the 
Consul ; may Allah keep all sorrow far from him ! " Then 
he and his followers went away. 

I had just dismissed the bearer of the bowl of cream 
with a backshish, when two little girls of the Sakhali 
family came to me, saying : " Oh> Miriam, peace be upon 
you ! We have thought you must be sad and lonely, now 
that the Consul is away from HSifa. May he return to 
you soon, and in safety ! " I invited my friendly little 
neighbours to take off their izzars (the white sheets in 
which they were enveloped), and to remain with me to 
breakfast. Hey wore dark cotton trousers, made very fall 
and long, and cloth jackets, closely fitting and fastened up 
to the throat. Their mundils, or bright-coloured muslin 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 178 

kerchiefs, were put on like shawls over the head, crossed 
under the chin, and the ends tied on the top of the head. 
Their hair was braided, and hung in long plaits over their 
shoulders. Their finger-nails and toe-nails were rosy with 
henna-dye. They left their yellow shoes at the entrance of 
the room. They were very much interested in turning out 
the contents of my work-box, and in looking through books 
of pictures, about which they asked many questions, and 
made curious comments, not only teaching me, uncon- 
sciously, Arabic words, but showing me the spirit of 
Oriental ideas. They were amused to hear about English 
children, and laughed heartily when I told them that in 
England a few camels are kept as curiosities, in a beautiful 
garden They could not understand how we could live in 
a land where there are no camels to carry burdens. I tried 
to explain to them the use of carts and railed roads ; but, 
as they had never seen a wheeled carriage of any kind, it 
was very difficult to convey the idea, even with the help of 
pictures. They were very clever, quick children; and, 
though only eight and nine years old, they could already 
make bread, and prepare many simple dishes. They were 
surprised that I had not been taught how to cook ; it is the 
chief point in the education of an Arab* girl. 

While 1 was occupied with my amusing littie guests, our 
Egyptian groom Mohammed arrived, leading a beautiful 
white mare, and bringing a letter from my brother, inviting 
me to go immediately to Shefa 'Omer (about three hours* 
distance), to meet him there, and to return with him to 
H&Lfa the next day. The children said : " We are glad you 
will to-day see the Consul; but we are sorry you are going 
away from us ; go in peace." I was soon ready, and 
mounted on the white mare; her long mane and tail were 
deeply dyed with henna (bright orange colour); it is said to 
be a pieventive of disease. A large glass bead of sapphire 
blue himg from the neck of the animal. I asked the groom 
what it was for; he said: "It will avert the effect of a 
glance from an evil eye; this mare is so beautiful tha,t she 
is in danger of being looked at with admiration and envy 



17* DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

by those who have power to destroy her and her rider even 

by a look." He said he dare not suflfer me to ride such an 

animal without this precaution. Many of my friends, 

Moslems and Christians, walked by my side as far as the 

gate, and " Go in peace, and return to us in safety," rang 

in my eai?8 as I rode along the sands, attended only by our 

trustworthy groom Mohammed, and under the protection of 

the sapphire bead. I asked him if my want of confidence 

in the charm would destroy its eflScacy. He answered 

solemnly : " Its power cannot he destroyedypraised he Allah I " 

It was noon; the sun shone, but not too fiercely; the wind 

blew, but not too roughly; and the waves rippled round the 

feet of the mare, and of Mohammed's sturdy little donkey. 

We crossed the Kishon cautiously and safely on the bar far 

out at sea; the river was rather deep and dangerous that 

day. We turned away from the shore and traversed the 

drifted sand-hills, where tall trees and shrubs were half 

buried ; but grass was springing up plentifully where the 

land was firmer, and the rain jested here and there in quiet 

pools, bordered by the iris, blue and yellow, rank grass and 

blossoming reeds. Advancing a little farther into the plain, 

we came to a perfect paradise of flowers. The ground for 

a mile or more in every direction was completely carpeted 

with anemones, scarlet, crimson, white, blue, puirple, pink, 

and lilac, with patches of clover and mallows here and there, 

and buttercups and cyolamen. I had never seen such wealth 

of wild flowers, or such vivid colouring, and there seemed 

to be no one to enjoy it. We were quite out of sight of 

human beings and human habitations. The only building 

to-be seen was the dome over the fountain of Jethro, a 

retreat for ablution and for prayer, with a few troughs round 

it for watering cattle. It is just half-way between H&ifa and 

Shefa 'Omer. I paused a moment to enjoy the scene and 

the silenca My mare began cropping the thickly growing 

mallows. Mohammed exclaimed ; " Ya Sittee, cows thrive 

on mallows, but to running horses they bring death." As 

we rode on again, I asked Mohammed if his parents still 

lived in Egypt ; he replied ; " God knows 1 It is more than 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE, 175 

twenty years since I left my mother. She was a widow, 
peace be upon her ! and I have never heard of her since. 
It is too late now ; no letter would reach her, for she is poor 
and unknown in the land. When the poor leave their 
parents, they leave them for ever. That is the reason why 
mothers weep and refuse to be comforted when their sons 
go away from their homes. Letters can be carried for the 
rich, and for people who are known." 

He was surprised to hear that in England all houses are 
named or numbered, and that letters directed to the poorest 
people in the country are taken as much care of as those ad- 
dressed to the most wealthy. Mohammed had lost the use 
of one eye. In answer to my inquiry, he told me that his 
mother had purposely destroyed the sight, by the application 
of poisonous leaves when he was young, to render him unfit 
for service in the army, for he was her only son. This 
practice was very eommon in. Egypt until Ibrahim Pasha 
put an effectual stop to it by ordering a regiment to be 
formed entirely of one- eyed men, and every one who had 
lost the sight of an eye, either .by accident or design, was 
compelled to join it. Mohammed, among others, was 
enrolled, and this Cyclopean regiment became the most 
formidable in Egyptian service,* We passed between large 
fields where wheat and barley were springing up vigorously, 
and over fallow ground garnished with blossoming weeds. 

• I could not understand what aort of leaves Mohammed referred to, 
but they were gathered from a shrub which grows in gardens on the banks 
of the Nile. On homoeopathic principles I suppose that this eye-destroying 
leaf should also have the power of renovating injured sight. Several 
Arabs (Christians) confessed to me, that when they were schoolboys, thqy 
resorted to aU sorts of schemes in order to avoid attending school. They 
used sometimes to rub their eyelids with freshly gathered fig-leaves, and 
the milky juice which exudes from them soon causes the eyelids to swell 
so much that they can scarcely be opened for two or three days, but no per- 
ceptible injury is done to' the eye. When fig-leaves were not to be found, 
they used stinging nettles instead. The boys said they cheerfully suffered 
this self-inflicted pain for a few days, for the sake of the holiday which 
neoetssarily accompanied it, and the temporary escape from the monotonous 
duties of school, and the thick stick of the schoolmaster. However, where 
Arab boys are kindly and intelligently taught, they learn eagerly and make 
wonderfully vapid progress. 



176 DOMESTIC LIFE IN I*ALBSTINE. 

Now and then we overtook a land tortoise, leisurely making 
its way across the country. They are very common in the 
plains of Palestine. Mohammed told me that Christians 
of the East eat them, especially in Lent, and the peasants 
catch and carry them to market towns in great numbers, 
I afterwards heard this confirmed, but I never saw the dish 
anywhere. When we reached the hill country I could 
scarcely recognise the valleys and the hill-sides, which I 
had traversed in October, and again in November. Every- 
thing was changed and beautified by spring. There was no 
bare earth to be seen, it was all concealed by vividly green 
vegetation. The periwinkle was conspicuous, and in the 
hollows of the white rocks and between the stones tiny 
flowers were flourishing. The evergreen oaks were gar- 
landed with wild clematis, and a creeper with lilac bell- 
like blossoms travelled from tree to tree in graceful festoons. 
The "pastures on the hills were clothed with flocks, and the 
valleys were covered with com:" Here we saw some human 
beings, the first we had met on our way. There was a veiy 
old man, with a long staflf in his hand, sitting under a trea 
He rose up when he saw us coming. He wore over his long 
shirt a short pelisse made of sheep-skin, and an old shawl 
head-dress. Some youths came forward as we approached. 
They were bronzed and weather-beaten. They had nothing 
on but long coarse cotton shirts, girdled with leather belts. 
Long clumsy-looking guns were slung over their shoulders. 
Their heads were hooded in old red and yellow shawLs 
(kefias) ; the herds and flocks upon the hills were in their 
care. The old man raised his hand to his forehead as we 
went by, and he said : ** God direct you." One of the young 
shepherds was sitting on a rock playing on a short flute, 
made of a reed; he placed the end of it in his mouth, and 
produced soft but clear musical sounds. I could only detect 
five notes. Mohammed pointed out a black tent, made of 
camel-hair cloth and branches, pitched under a large tere- 
binth-tree. It was no doubt the portable home of the 
herdsmen. Here we were n^et by an African horseman, as 
black as ebony. He was dressed entirely in white and 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 177 

crimson, and was riding at fall gallop. He paused to greet 
us, and said to Mohammed, " The English Consul is near at 
hand ; he is coming forth to meet his sister, but my eyes 
have seen her first; I will hasten to give him joy, and tell 
him that she is well and on her way;" and Mohammed 
answered, "Gk) in peace: blessed is the bearer of good 
tidings." We were soon in the olive-groves of Shefa 
'Omer, and there to my delight I met my brother. Saleh^ 
Habib, and Stephani joined us; they handed blossom- 
ing almond branches to me, in token of welcome. We 
rode up the steep hiU on which the town stands, and 
alighted at the house of Habtb; he led me into his 
guest-chamber, a large, eight-windowed, square room. 
On two sides of it mattresses were placed cm the floor, 
covered with Turkey carpets, and cushions eased in silk 
and satin were leaning against the walls. On one side 
a handsome carpet was spread, with a small silk-covered 
square mattress, and pillows arranged for one person 
only ; this he said was intended for me. Egyptian matting 
covered the rest of the floor, and in one comer was a 
raised bed-stand, with muslin mosquitoe curtains. We 
went out on to the broad terrace, which overlooks the sea 
and the plaiii, and rested there, exchanging news. I re- 
ported the visit of the Bedouins. My brother explained to 
me how the townspeople, the villagers, and the peasantry 
dread the approach of these wanderers with their flocks and 
herds, for, he said, "they not only spoil the pasture-land, 
but the crops are endangered. There will be no real safety 
for cultivators and agriculturists in Palestine till these 
incursions are put a stop to. The Bedouins come fix^n 
beyond Jordan, every year, just after the winter rains are 
over, when the grain is springing up, so that people do not 
venture to cultivate more land than they hope to be able tp 
protect That is one reason why there are so many waste 
places in the country, and why some portions of the most 
fertile plains are abandoned by the peasants of Palestine, 
and only cultivated by wandering tribes, who pitch their 
tents in a favourable spot, plough, sow, and reap, and then 

N 



178 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

perhaps re-cross the Jordan, and return no more till the 
following spring." 

According to Judges, sixth chapter, third and sixth verses, 
these wanderers used to commit just such depredations in 
Palestine three thousand years ago, and at the very same 
season ; for it is written : " When Israel had soton^ then the 
Amalehites, the Mtdianites, and the children of the East {i.e. 
from beyond Jordan) came up against themy they destroyed 
the increase of the earth and left no sustenance for Israsl ; 
they came with their cattle and their tents, and they and their 
camels were without number, and Israel was greatly im- 
poverished." This is one of the chief causes of the present 
poverty of the country. When the sun went down, we 
entered the guest-chamber ; large lanterns were lighted and 
placed on two small stools in the middle of the room. 
The Grovemor, Abu Daoud, and his little son arrived to 
greet me. Soon afterwards Salihh Agha came, in his large 
scarlet cloak, edged with gold lace and embroidery. His dark 
face was deeply shaded by his lilac and sUver shawl, worn 
like a hood, bound round his head by a thick white cord of 
camel-hair. His eyelids were kohl tinged, and he looked 
rather fierce on the whole. He and his brother, the cele- 
brated AMel Agha, are the most powerful and formidable 
people in the Pashalic of 'Akka. They came originally firam 
Morocco, and are now in the service of the Turkish Govern- 
ment ; they have three or four hundred armed horsemen 
under their command. They may be regarded as the 
mounted patrols of the hills and plains of Galilee, for it is 
their duty to keep the roads clear that people may travel 
in safety. To a considerable extent they succeed, and 
thanks to their energy, highway robbery and murders are 
rare ; but they cannot of course keep aU the wanderers out 
of the country. Over some tribes Akiel Agha has great in- 
fluence, but with the Kurds and other hostile hordes he 
sometimes comes into collision, and warfare ensues, and 
then all the tribes friendly or in alliance with him naturally 
come to his assistance. But, notwithstanding these out- 
breaks, it is certain that without the Agha's somewhat 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 179 

irregular guard, affairs in the PashaKc of 'Akka would be 
veiy much worse, and travelling would be attended with 
more danger. 

Aklel Agha's regiment is a motley crew, formed of 
desperate men from all parts of the country, reminding one 
of the four hundred over whom David made himself a 
captain (1 Samuel xxii 2). They are distinguished by the 
name of "Hawara," i.e. *' destruction,'* and are, in fact, a 
tolerated tribe of marauders, empowered by the Govern- 
ment to keep other tribes in check. 

Salihh Agha told me that he had served on the Danube 
for a short time during the previous year, but he did not 
like to be so far away from his children ; his tents were 
now pitched at Abilene, about three miles from Shefa 'Omer. 
He sent his lieutenant to fetch his youngest son for me to 
see, though it was a dark night and long past simset. 
Supper was announced, and we were conducted to another 
room. Water was poured over oui* hands as we entered, 
then we, seven in number, sat on the matted floor, round a 
circular tray, raised about six inches from the ground, and 
literally crowded with food. A very long, narrow towel was 
placed in front of the guests, and reached all round, resting 
on our knees, and its fringed ends met and crossed where 
I was invited to take my seat. There were six round dishes 
of heaped-up rice, boiled in butter ; six dishes of boiled 
wheat, mixed with ininced meat and spices ; a few plates 
of fowls and lamb, and bowls of lebbeny or sour cream, and 
a good snpply of sweet cream, cheese, olives and salad. A 
cake of bread was before each person. Directly Salihh 
^ha was seated, he began eating silently and (as it seemed 
to me) voraciously, quite in Bedouin style, making pellets 
of the hot rice or wheat in the palm of his hand, and with 
a skilful jerk tossing them into his mouth. He divided the 
fowls with his fingers, and did me the honour to pass the 
most delicate morsels to me. At this rate the contents of 
the dishes soon disappeared, for all the gentlemen followed 
the example of Salihh Agha, and as, one by one, they were 
satisfied, they roge and washed their hands. "We then 

n2 



180 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

returned to the large room, where many visitors had 
assembled. Coflfee and pipes were served. Songs were 
sung in praise of the Agha and of the Vice Consul, and 
other guests. The songs which called forth the greatest 
enei^ were descriptions of contending armies and of the 
chase. Arrack was handed round to the singers, but none 
of the Bedouins partook of it Little Nimhr, the son of 
the Agha, arrived ; he was about seven years old. He came 
bounding into the room, and was soon wrapped in the folds 
of his father's scarlet cloak and covered with kisses and 
caresses. I was struck by the change in the somewhat 
stem aspect of Salihh Agha. He was full of tenderness and 
demonstrative affection for his little sou, an ugly boy, but 
of that piquant description of ugliness which is sometimes 
so attractive. The lieutenant wished him to go and have 
supper with him, but he said archly, "Did I come here to 
have supper or to see the English Sit?" i.e. the lady. He 
came and nestled by my side ; took my hands in his, felt 
my dress, and said it was nice and soft. He showed in 
every action that he was accustomed to be noticed very 
much, and to be lovingly treated. WresUing was proposed, 
and he immediately challenged EUas, the son of Stephani, 
a slightly made, very pretty boy, also about seven, who 
deliberately took off his little brown braided and hooded 
pelisse, while Nimhr threw down his loose camel-hair 
cloak. They each wore scarlet cloth jackets, with hanging 
sleeves Kke the hussars', wide-sleeved long white cotton 
shirts, and very full scarlet trowsers. They took off the 
latter and their shoes. Little Nimhr {Le, the Leopard) 
looked proudly impatient. Young EUas, quietly in eamesi 
made a spring on Nimhr and threw him down. The men 
clapped their hands and shouted. The wrestling was carried 
on for nearly half an hour; Elias was, almost in every 
instance, the victor. At last Nimhr, with a mortified look, 
after many falls, ran to his father and hid himself in the 
folds of tiie scarlet cloak. Elias looked quite calm and 
unexcited by his success ; he sat quietly by my side. 
I find that wrestling is a very conmion exercise in the 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 181 

Bedouin tenta Salihh Agha's elder boys, of fifteen and 
sixteen years of age, were present They behaved with great 
deference and respect to their fetther, and did not sit, or 
take coffee, or smoke in his presence without his permission , 
(but since that time the eldest son has distinguished him* 
self in warfieire, and has killed an enemy of his tribe with 
his own hand, so he now enjoys the dignity and privileges 
of manhood and equality with his father). The room was 
cleared of the numerous guests at an early hour, and then 
the wife of Habib (my host)„ and four women came to see 
me. One of them offered to sleep in the guest-chamber with 
me, thinking I should be frightened. The Arabs are very 
timid at night, and always congregate together to sleep, and 
bum lamps to drive away evil spirits when under a roof. 
They were 'surprised that I could dare to sleep in darkness 
and alone. The next morning Habib's wife came tapping at 
my door early, and with curiosity examined my garments. 
The room would soon have been full of women to assist and 
inspect my toilette, if I had not decidedly expressed a wish to 
dress before I received visitors, so only my hostess remained, 
she afterwards led me to her room on the ground-floor. It 
was spacious, but very low ; beds, bedding and carpets were 
piled up on a raised stone bench, on one side, and on 
the other, cooking utensils, dishes, jars and stores were 
arranged. At the end of the room, opposite the door, a 
carpet was spread, and there I was invited to sit down to 
breakfast In a comer a woman was preparing meat 'for 
cooking, and a large charcoal brazier stood near the door, 
where a girl was roasting coffee-berries. This room was 
evidently the parlour, bedroom, kitchen and all A charcoal- 
cellar and the stables occupied the other part of the ground- 
floor. 

The mother of my host was busy, superintending the 
baking of the loaves she had made that morning, so I went 
to the baking-house at the end of the street to see her. Stacks 
of wood, tree-branches and thorn-bushes were piled up just 
outside the entrance to it. I peeped inside the low, stone 
buUding. It was Uke a furnace. The flat loaves were placed 



182 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

on large sheets of iron, which were heated from beneath by 
a glowing and crackling wood fire. Several women, whose 
faces, all but the kohl-stained eyes, were veiled, were wait- 
^ ing to take their cakes of bread in to be baked. They held 
them on round trays made of wicker-work and straw. A 
poor little boy, who looked very hungry, came with only 
one small loaf, and watched anxiously for his turn, A 
white, semi-transparent lizard rah out from between the 
stones by the door. I stooped forward to examine it ; the 
women around shrieked out. exclamations of horror and 
disgust In answer to my questions, they said, "Ya sittee, 
that is an evU reptile, he crawls over bread or other food, 
and breathes his poisonous breath upon it, so that he who 
eats that corrupted food may die, or be as one smitten with 
leprosy." Mohammed, our Egyptian groom, who approached 
at the moment, leading the white mare, said, " Crod preserve 
us 1 The words of the women are true words." 

I hastened to prepare for riding. A gazelle hunt had 
been arranged for that day by Salihh Agha, and he had 
invited us to accompany him. The kawass and grooms, 
and the Agha's people had charge of some fine gazelle- 
hounds. We met the rest of the party down by the fountain. 
Three of them were on foot leading boar-hounds, they soon 
left us, and entered the lull country of Carmel to seek for 
boars. Little Nimhr was riding with the lieutenant on a 
chesnut horse, whose pedigree they say could be traced 
back to the time of Solomon ; his defence against fascina- 
tion was a white shell, called wadat, festened to a cord hung 
round his neck. We were joined by Habib and Stephani, 
and our friend and fellow-townsman Saleh SakhaLL The 
latter said to me, '*Tou must take notice to day, ya sittee 
Miriam, of the great difiference between the vision of people 
who live in towns and of those who live in the open country 
in tents." I soon had an example of this, for Salihh Agha 
scanned the horizon, and he and his people discerned in the 
distance a horse at full gallop. Before we townspeople 
could distinguish that the horse had a rider, SalUih 
Agha could describe his dress and even his features. 



DOMESTIC UFE IK PALESTINK 183 

thongli he was a stranger to hinL EUs words were entirely 
verified when the rider came within the range of oni 
vision. 

I congratulated Salihh Agha on the possession of such a 
facully, and told him how much it astonished me. He said, 
" You also have a power which is a marvel to me. I have 
seen the vmting in your book (he referred to the note-book 
which I invariably carried and frequently used) ; the 
strokes and figures in it are so fine and small and so close 
togelher that it made my eyes ache to look at them." The 
Agha could not read or write his own huiguage even. 

Saleh Sakhali remarked, ^' The good gifts of Allah are 
divided; praised be AllaL" One of the Bedouins said, 
"Men who live in towns accustom their eyes to look only 
&om one street to another and from one wall to another, 
but we who live in tents see to the ends of the earth. 
When I am within walls I am as one struck blind, or as if 
a veil were held before my eyes. There is no space for 
sight vsrithin the towns." We rode on quietly along the 
base of the MQs among- low brushwood, thistles, and 
flourishing thorns. The grooms had great difficulty in 
keeping the hounds in, so violently did they struggle to 
escape. 

We traversed a well-watered valley, where the mallow 
was growing extensively, to the height of one or two feet, 
with lUac, pink, and sUvery grey blossoms, and large, thick 
leaves. Men and boys were busy cutting it and rapidly 
fiUii^ their basketa This plant is very much used by the 
Arabs medicinally ; they make poultices of the leaves to 
allay irritation and inflammation; lotions are prepared 
irom them also. '^ Khubazi " is the Arabic word for mal- 
lows, and the little, flat, round seed-vessels, so well known 
to English children as *' cheeses** are by the Arabs called 
'* Khubiz," that is, " loaves" for the Arab bread is always 
flat and round. 

While Stephani was explaining this to me, I saw five 
gazelles leaping one after the other from a thicket of 
thistles. They disappeared behind some juniper-trees. We 



184 DOMESTIC LIFE m PALESTINE. 

directed the attention of the now scattered huntsmen to the 
spot;^ they came galloping recklessly over bushes and 
rocks. The dogs were set free and soon started the gazelles. 
I rested in my saddle with Saleh Sakhali by my side, 
watching the graceful bounds of the startled animals, the 
racing and leaping of the hounds, and the skilful ma- 
noeuvres of the horsemen. They missed the gazelles but 
they succeeded in capturing four fine hares. Then there 
Was a start in another direction, where a troop of antlered 
gazelles had been seen. I followed in the rear With the 
lieutenant and his little charge !N^imhr, and from a dis- 
tance we observed the chase for some time ; then we rode 
across the plain between cultivated fields and gardens of 
wild flowers. We paused at the fountain of Jethro, which 
had been fixed upon as the place for meeting after the 
hunt. There we found the Agha's people preparing dinner. 
They had dug two broad, shallow pits in the ground, in 
which they had made fires of wood and thoma In one a 
lamb was being baked whole, and over the other a caul- 
dron of rice was boiling. 

In a short time the whole party was. assembled. The 
panting dogs rolled themselves in the grass, the horsemen 
dismounted, and with difficulty the frisky and loudly 
neighing horses were tethered. Some were fastened to iron 
stakes or pins driven in the ground. Grooms and horsemen 
generally carry them when they journey in places where 
there are no trees or rocks to which to bind the animals. 
All the men, however, had not been equally provident 
Heavy stones were sought for and halters fastened to them, 
but not quite securely; the consequence was, that two 
horses escaped and galloped away. I could not help being 
amused with the chase after these runaways, through 
marshes and tangled masses of vegetation. I preferred it 
to the pursuit of the swift-footed, poor little frightened 
gazelles, whose escape gratified me more than their capture 
did. The horses were caught at last, together, by the 
banks of a stream. When we reassembled we took our 
seats in the shade of the dome of the fountain, with acres 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 185 

of wild flowers round us. Dinner was ready. Two men 
brought the lamb on a large metal dish or tray, two others 
carried a mountain of rice, yellow with butter. Boys ar- 
rived with bowls of sweet clotted cream and new milk and 
dishes of lebbeny. These provisions were arranged on a 
carpet of clover and mallows and grass. We washed our 
hands, the servants pouring water over them from earthen- 
ware jara. Large Bedouin cloaks and saddle-cloths were 
spread for us, and we gathered round the smoking and 
savoury fare. 

Each one of the Arabs on preparing to touch food 
uttered the words : " In the name of God the most bounti- 
fiiL" The lamb was soon skilfully dissected by Saleh with 
Ms hunting-knife. A servant handed a flat, thin, large, 
leathery loaf to each of us. The lamb was stuffed with rice 
and minced meat, almonds, raisins, walnuts and spice; 
Salihh Agha placed some on my flat loa^ which served me 
as a plate, and he gave me a lump of meat in my handa 
He had separated it from the bone with his short hunting- 
dagger. The Arabs cook their meat so thoroughly that it 
is very tender and easily pulled and torn to pieces. 

The men made deep depressions in the pyramidal monn-" 
tain of rica But each one carefully helped himself from 
that part of the dish which was nearest to him, and did not, 
if he could avoid it, disturb the rice near to the hole made 
in it by his neighbour, except when by way of courtesy he 
placed a delicate morsel of meat into it now and then. A 
roasted hare was added to the feast and soon distributed. 
The cream was eaten voraciously by dipping pieces of bent 
bread into it and scooping it up as with a spoon, so the 
spoon and its contents disappeared together. Scarcely a 
word was spoken by the Arabs during the meaL One by 
one they retired, saying, " God be praised," and went to the 
fountain to wash their hands and mouths, uttering an invo- 
cation to Allah. 

We afterwards rested for a short time, coffee and pipes 
were prepared. I took the opportimity of putting the Agha, 
his little son, and his attendant Khalil into my sketch-book. 



186 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

The latter seemed rather alarmed when he saw what I had 
done, and begged of me not to show his portrait in certain 
districts, for a price was set upon his head and men songht 
after him to kill him. In the meantime the servants and 
people so far emptied the large metal trays or dishes that 
I could plainly see the Ambic sentences engraved on 
them — extracts from the Koran and words of praise and 
prayer. Then most of the men covered their faces and 
slept; while I wandered about gathering and pressing speci- 
mens of all the flowers I could find, little Nimhr good- 
naturedly helping me. Besides the ranunculus and anemone 
and others as familiar, I met with many flowers which 
were strange to me. One was pink and shaped very like a 
primrose, ^th pointed succulent leaves g^wing two by 
two up the stem (the pink colour always changed to blue 
after pressing). This plant would be a welcome addition to 
our gardens in England, where I have never yet found it 
I made a drawing of the dome over the pleasant fountain, 
and when the sleepers woke they said, "Mashallah, the 
English girl takes no rest — God gives her strengtL" We 
.took leave of the Agha and his people, and our Shefa 'Omer 
friends, and rode with Saleh and our servants towards 
HSifa, carrying one gazelle and two hares. We saw many 
groups of horses and camels grazing under the care of the 
Agha's men on the uncultivated portions of the plaiiL 
Tortoises met us and paused as if alarmed ; they looked 
about them for an instant and then drew their heads under 
their homy shields. Hundreds of small birds fluttered out 
of the tall grass, disturbed by our approach, and flocks of 
wild ducks and geese now and then flew across the plain 
towards the marshes, and sea-gulls flapped their wings 
above us. We crossed the drifted sand-hills and cantered 
along the smooth seashore towards the Kishon. Men were 
standing on its banks, throwing large floating nets, assisted 
by boys in a little boat in the middle of the river. The 
fishes of the Eishon are rather small, but abundant, and 
delicate in flavour. 

There were seven ships off HSifa — Greek, French, and 



BOMESTIO LIFE m PALESTINE. 187 

Turkish. The sun was low when we went, one after the 
other, over the sand-bar. We hastened onwards by the 
watei^s edge, letting our horses' feet just touch the fringe 
of the sparkling waves, startling hundreds of small white 
and sand-coloured crabs. Their black eyes are fixed on 
the points of moveable pinnacles, which are thrust out fix)m 
the round eye-sockets, and stand upright. They scampered 
hither and thither nimbly, to get out of our way. Their 
rapidly-moving forms were repeated on the shining wet 
saads, till shape and shadow were lost under the coming 
wave. I have often caught and examined these curious 
little crabs ; they are always very light in colour — ^white 
or sandy, and they vary from one to three inches in length. 
I think they must be of the kind called " Cancer Volans;" 
they make holes in the sand, near the sea, and seem very 
timid when disturbed. They sometimes, however, resent 
interference. I have seen our gazeUe-hound, "Etsheh," 
amuse himself by running after them, tormenting them as 
a cat does a mouse, or peering into their burrows. When 
they had an opportunity, they used to cling to his long 
delicate nose or lip, and he had some difficulty in 
shaking them off; but I never saw him destroy or injure 
one in any way. Fishermen use these crabs for bait^ and 
make traps for them in the sand, in imitation of their 
burrows. . 

There were many friends to greet us as we entered the 
gate of HMia ; for it was the hour of sunset, when people 
flock into town after an evening stroll. There was the 
Muetzellim, surrounded by his suite, walking slowly, with 
his silver and coral rosaiy in his hand, and his pipe-bearer 
by his side. A little group of Jews were there too, some 
wearing broad-brimmed hats and long gabardines, others 
with dark shawl-turbans and short cloth or silk pelisses 
lined with fur. Apart from these were companies of quite 
unrecognisable women, shrouded in white sheets from head 
to foot. They looked like moving pillars, for they took 
such short steps, scarcely lifting their feet from the ground, 
that their progress should be called gliding instead o^ 



188 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

walking. Even their little children seemed unnaturally 
demure and stately. 

Short sturdy-looking oxen, fat sheep, with long, broad, 
heavy tails, and black, glossy-haired goats, led by the 
herdsmen, were returning from the pleasant but unpro- 
tected pastures ; to seek shelter within the town walls for 
the night. 

The Christians were at the same time entering in at 
the opposite gate, for they almost always walk towards 
the western hills and plains, perhaps because their ceme- 
teries are west of the town; while the Moslems prefer 
the eastern suburbs, where they bury their dead. 

The call to prayer was echoing clearly through the town 
from the balcony of the crescent-crowned minaret ; while the 
vesper beU was ringing fixjm the little belfry of the Latin 
church. Some- of the people paused from their work, or 
stood stiU in the streets, to cross themselvei^ and to mutter 
an " Ave Maria " in Arabic ; while the rest were declaring, 
" There is one God, and Mahommed is his prophet" 

On Sunday, my brother always read the Church Service 
in Arabic, in the drawing-room of the Consulate, at nine 
o'clock. When British vessels were in port, we had 
service at eleven, with such of the captains and sailors 
who could attend ; and English travellers passing throtigh 
the country occasionally joined us. Saleh Sakhali was in- 
variably present at the Arabic service, and no one was 
excluded from it We generally mustered about six or 
seven ; people came perhaps the more readily, because 
they were not pressed or even invited to come. Curiosity 
induced many to pay one or more visits ; for the Arabs, 
and especially the Christian Arabs, could not understand 
how we could have religion without a Friest/ solemnity 
without an Altar; how we could worship without a Church/ 
or realize the presence of God without the elevation of 
the Host: but they were always quietly and earnestly 
attentive, while listemng to portions of the Old or New 
Testaments. After prayers, Saleh Sakhali often read, by- 
request, several chaptera, selecting some history or essay 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 189 

complete in itself. Women of the Greek or Latin 
Clmrches came occasionally, and remained unveiled when 
only Christians were present; but if a Moslem were an- 
nounced, they retreated immediately. 

The Moslems always expressed themselves much pleased 
with the service, on account of its simplicity and rever- 
ence. I find that, besides the Koran, they regard al Tora, 
the Pentateuch, a' Zah^, the Psalms, a' NahiyeA, the 
Prophets, and al Anjili, the New Testament, as holy or 
inspired books ; and people who receive any one of these 
are to be tolerated. 

The new governor, Saleh Bek Abd-ul-Hady, an Arab, 
came now and then. He said that if there were an Eug- 
lish college in the country, he would immediately send his 
boys to it. Many of our neighbours wished to send their 
little girls for a few hours every day to my care ; but I 
could not undertake the charge, though, whenever I had 
time to spare, I encouraged children to come to the 
house — ^the only condition being that they should be clean 
and neat. 

Moslem boys do not generally play with Christians, and 
even the Christian children are divided amongst them- 
selves ; for those belonging to the Greek Church have their 
street games apart from those who belong to the Latin 
Chittch, and they only unite to persecute the poor little 
Jews. 

A gentle-looldng little girl, of about six years of age, 
whose father was a much respected European, and mother 
an Arab, surprised me very much one day, by saying 
in Arabic, without any provocation, and with a gesture 
of scorn, to a Jewish workman, " Go, thou Jew, and he 
crucified!' The chUd, naturally good-natured and affec- 
tionate, shuddered when she partially understood how 
cruel and unjust her words were. By my wish, she begged 
pardaa of the Jew ; and then, by her own impulse, and to 
his great wonder, kissed his hands, while tears stood in 
her eyes. 

It was with the hope of checking, as far as I could, this 



190 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

spirit of hatred, intoleraaice, and persecution, that I en- 
couraged the little ones of HSifa to meet together in my 
room. I prepared entertainments for them, played with 
them, told them stories about England, showed them 
pictures (avoiding reference to their various creeds), and, 
by making them happy together, I hoped they would learn 
unconsciously to love one another. 

I used sometimes to leave the children to amuse them- 
selves alone, while I retreated to the end of the room, 
whence I could see and hear all that was going on, without 
throwing any check on their natural impulses. At such 
times, I have heard girls of seven and eight years of age, 
and younger, discussing the comparative value of the 
wardrobes and jewels of the ladies of H^a. One child 
would say, " Sit Haflfi has the largest pearls and emeralds,*' 
and " Such a one has the greatest number of diamonds," 
and " Um Elia has the handsomest dresses and embroidered 
jackets." They could tell how many coins the women from 
Nazareth, who lived in HS-ifa, had. on their head-dresses. 

On Sunday, February 24th, a Moslem, of considerable 
influence and learning, asked permission to attend the 
Morning Service. We welcomed him; and he. Prayer- 
book in hand, followed every word attentively, evincing 
unusual interest, or eurbsity. He even abandoned his 
amber rosary for the time. Directly after prayers, how- 
ever, the beads were to be seen again, rapidly slipping 
through his well-shaped, carefally-trimmed fingers. A 
Moslem does not appear at ease, unless he has a pipe in 
one hand, and a chaplet in the other. 

When the Christians had gone, I said to him, "Will 
your Excellency tell me the use of the rosary; is it simply 
a toy, or is it a help to reckon prayer or praise?" 

Without showing the slightest unwillingness, he ex- 
plained its use, saying, "The attributes or characteristic 
excellencies of God are manifold; but there are ninety- 
nine which should be learnt, and remembered continually, 
by all men. These rosaries consist of ninety-nine, or thirty- 
three beads, on which to reckon the attributes, thus " — he 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 191 

took the chaplet out of my hands^ and, while passing bead 
after bead through his fingers, he said, with unusual slow- 
ness and solemnity: " Grod the Creator — God the Preserver 
— Grod the most Bountiful — Grod the Deliverer — God the 
Eternal — God the Ever-present — God the AU-seeing — God 
the most Merciful — God the AU-powerfiil — God the King 
of Kings ** — ^and so on, till the chaplet had passed three 
times through his hands ; for it consisted only of thirty- 
three large egg-shaped beads of clouded amber. 

When he found how much pleased I was> he took pains 
to teach it to me. 

I said to him, " Now that your Excellency has made me 
understand the solemn and beautiful words of the rosaiy^ 
I shall always be sorry to hear them said quickly and 
thoughtlessly." He answered, " You are right, O my sister; 
God is to be approached with reverence." But I could 
perceive that he found it much more difficult to repeat the 
attributes leisurely, than to utter them, as usual, rapidly. 
After a pause, he said, " To every man who is not hateful 
or erring, one of these Diviue attributes especially belongs, 
and influences his life. The date of the birth of an indi- 
vidual, in conjunction with his name, properly reckoned, 
discovers the particular attribute." As an example, he cal- 
culated mine, and always afterwards called me " Miriam 
the Intercessor.** I asked my Moslem teacher in what 
sense the word ''Intercessor" was used as an attribute of 
God. He regarded it simply as mercy and goodness, and 
readiness to pardon. (Another Moslem told me, one day, it 
was mercy pleading with justice.) He acknowledged to 
me that he did not regard fasts, and forms, and ceremonies 
as important. He thought that doing our duty to man, and 
giving thanks to God, were all-sufficient. But he added, 
'' K I did not keep the fasts and feasts, and perform certain 
ablutions and prayers three times a day, my voice would 
not be heard in the Medglis {i.e. the Council), and I should 
lose all my influenca" He assured me that there were 
many enlightened men who felt as he did on the subject, 
but they Idd the thoughts of their hearts. 



192 DOMESTIC LIFE m PALESTINE. 

My brother scarcely ever spoke to Moslems about their 
religion, and warned me to be cautious how I did so; 
consequently, I never introduced the subject, directly or 
indirectly, except when I found myself with any one of 
superior inteUigenoe and judgment, and then only carefully, 
and as an inquirer , never as a teacher or proselytizer. I 
invariably met with good-natured, if not satisfactory answers, 
and gained some interesting information. I was satisfied 
that I did not give offence, by the fact that my society was 
most sought for by those whom I had thus questioned — ^veiy 
likely on account of the novelty of the circumstance. 

In the afternoon, all the Europeans then in HMa 
assembled, and walked in procession to the Latin church,* 
to witness the christening of Jules> the infant son of the 
French Consul. Kawasses led the way. The child was 
placed on a crimson silk piUow, and carried by his nurse, 
Helw^, an old woman of Nazareth. The father (Mons, 
Aumannj conducted me. He said there had never before 
been such a procession of Europeans thro^h those naxrow 
and crooked streets. It was formed af Consuls, and 
Captains (whose ships were in port), monks from Mount 
Carmel, and merchants of HMfa ; and. two elderly Greek 
ladies, with large black lace shawls folded over their red 
cloth caps. The godmother was of Greek birth, but she 
wore Arab costume, and was shrouded in a white sheet 
We entered the httle square church. Near to the highly 
and gaudily decorated altar, a number of bare-headed men 
(Arabs) were prostrating themselves or beating their breasts. 
And behind them a group of women and girls, almost 
shrouded in white sheets, knelt languidly, with mother-of- 
pearl rosaries in their henna-stained hands. Their many- 
coloured mundlls (muslin veils) were thrown back over their 
heads, and bright everlasting flowers, and jewels, and brighter 
eyes in dark settings of kohl, were exposed. I^e men (Arabs) 
carefully avoided looking towards the women ; but some 
of the latter seemed to expect to attract the admiration of 
the less scrupulous Europeans, and were not disappointed. 
On a table near to the font, sacred oil and salt, and other 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 193 

necessaries for the ceremony of christening, were arranged 
on a white embroidered cloth. The parish priest read the 
baptismal service in Latin ; but the little hero of the day 
somewhat disturbed and disconcerted him by screaming 
lustily; he strongly objected to the taste of the salt, and to 
the application of the water to his head, and of the oil to 
his chest, &c. It was a relief to every one present, espe- 
cially to the priest, when the ceremony was over, and the 
" newly-made little Christian " (as they all called him) was 
comforted in the arms of his nurse. We returned to the 
French Consulate. There was a large gathering in the 
marble-paved saloriy where the happy mother (an Arab 
lady) received the congratulations of her neighbours, for 
Jules was her only son. It was quite a f§te-day in H§.ifa> 
especially among the Latins. Oranges boiled in sugar and 
spice, lemons cut up and preserved in honey, aU sorts of 
Oriental confectionary, made of sweetened starch and gums, 
and French bonbons and liqueurs, were distributed I took 
leave of the assembled guests, and strolled with my brother 
out at the West Gate. The declining sun was brightening 
the green slopes, the trees, and white rocks of the Carmel 
range. A small pink flower had sprung up plentifully in 
the stony places of the plain ; each blossom was in the 
form of a foliated Greek cross, and the small, green leaves 
were heart-shaped. 

We sat on the mossy trunk, and in the lengthening shade 
of a large locust-tree, discussing the events of the day, en- 
joying the scene and the silence, for we had wandered quite 
out of sight of the town. We were in the midst of a grove 
of fig, locust, and olive trees; the ground was caipeted 
with wild flowers. The hills, fragrant with aromatic herbs, 
rose behind us; and the broad sea, red with the rays of the 
setting sun, was before us. Our tite-h-tite was interrupted 
hy the approach of our kawass, who came to announce the 
arrival of a special messenger from Jerusalem. The mes-- 
senger himself soon appeared. He was a tall, powerful- 
looking African, very black and bony, clad simply in a coarse, 
unbleached cotton shirt, girdled with a leather strap. A 

o 



194 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

large white turban protected his head and shaded his face ; 
his wide, pliant feet were bare. He had walked all the way 
from Jerusalem in three days, and was the bearer of impor- 
tant despatches from H.B.M. Consul, Mr. Finn. He drew 
the packet from his bosom, and^kissed my brother's hands 
as he presented it, and then stood resting on his long, thick 
staff. 

I found that the letters contained directions for my 
brother to proceed immediately to NabUis, to report the 
state of affairs there, and to ascertain the true cause or 
causes of the disturbances in the town and in the mountam 
districts around. A letter from Mrs. F. advised and invited 
me to accompany him as far as NabHis; that an escort might 
meet me there, to take me on to Jerusalem, to spend Easter 
with her. Eumours had reached HSifa every day for some 
time past of skirmishes, and even pitched battles, between 
the supporters of Mahmoud Bek Abdul Hady, the newly- 
appointed Governor of NablAs, and the partizans of his 
predecessor in office. A tour through the Jebel Nablus 
district was in consequence considered rather hazardous, 
and rain would be sure to set in in a day or two. How- 
ever, I consented to go, on the condition that my brother 
would promise to travel exactly as if he were alone, both 
with regard to the selection of the route and of the halting- 
places, and the length of each day's journey. This settled, 
he proved to me that he understood I was in earnest by 
saying, " Then we will start at sunrise to-morrow, for that is 
what I should do if I were going alone." This was a 
sudden change in our plans. Till past midnight I was 
busy packing portmanteaus, and providing for the safety of 
the house and furniture for an indefinite period, and 
guarding against the intrusion of rats and mice, moth and 
rust. 

In the meantime my brother was in his office, in earnest 

• consultation with his agent and our governor, Saleh Bek. 

The latter asked to see me; I went to him, and he said, 

"My sister, you have a brave heart; you are going on a 

difficult journey, but you have no reason to fear any one, for 



DOMESTIC LTPE IN PALESTINE. 195 

you have no enemies. After a day or two you wUl reach 
my town, Arabeh, and there you will find rest, and my 
wives and my children wiU welcome yon, for they are stiU 
there; I have prepared to receive them here, and have 
sent for them several times, but they have not courage to 
travel, now that war has broken out. If you reach Arabeh 
in safety, and they see you, perhaps their hearts will be 
made strong. God be with you, and protect you ; may you 
find rest at Arabeh, and peace whithersoever you go 1" 



o2 



CHAPTER IX. 



AFTER a few hours of perfect rest, I rose before the 
sun, on Monday, 25th of February. Katiine, who 
had begged to accompany us, had packed up her bundle 
of clothes, and was rejoicing at the thought of spending 
the Festival of Easter in Jerusalem, for she was an earnest 
devotee. She had newly dressed her eyes with kohl for 
the occasion. I told her of the difficulties of the journey 
She assured me she had no fear, for she had made a pil- 
grimage to the Chapel of the Madonna on Mount Carmel, 
and wore round her neck a potent charm, which she had 
obtained there, believing it would preserve her from all 
danger. It was a scapulary, that is, a rudely-printed 
picture of the Virgin and Child, on a piece of linen, one 
or two inches square, said to be a portion of the smock 
which the blessed Virgin left on Mount Carmel when she 
graciously appeared in a vision to one of the monks of 
old. This smock must have been a very large one, for it 
furnishes an unlimited number of scapularies, which are 
sold by thousands to pUgrims from aU parts of Europe. 
All the native Christians of H^ifa wear them, and most of 
the Europeans do also ; I only know two or three excep- 
tions. Some scapularies are enshrined in crystal lockets, 
or adorned with spangles and beads ; others are simply 
bound or lined with sUk, or embroidered at the edges. 
Once, when I was ill, poor Katrine put one secretly round 
my neck whUe I slept ; and now, in preparation for the 
journey, she tried to induce me to avail myself of its 
protection. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 197 

The court was crowded with well-wishers, who came to 
say, " God be with you," and to express their regrets at 
our departure. The general impression was, that we were 
fioing on a perilous expedition. Town Arabs, especially 
L ChristiJ, are generSly rather timid ; and being some- 
what deliberate in their movements, they were, wondering 
at the rapidity of ours. All articles of value were depo- 
sited at the French Consulate, the perishable stores were 
distributed, and, very soon after sunrise, we were mounted 
and ready to start. A guide, fully armed, furnished by 
our governor, with our kawass, Hadj Dervish, led the way. 
I followed, with my brother and the French Consul's Arab 
secretary, who had begged to join us; then came the 
muleteer, with the luggage and canteen, Mohammed, our 
Egyptian groom, Katrine, shrouded in a large camel-hair 
cloak and mounted on horseback, and the tall AMcan 
messenger on foot. We had advised him to rest a day or 
two at H&ifa, but he declared he was not tired, and he 
said that riding would be more fatiguing to him than 
walking, for he was not accustomed to it. When we had 
taken leave of our friends at the gate of the town, and 
had passed the Moslem cemetery, Katrine had disappeared. 
On inquiry, I heard that, in spite of her scapulary, her 
courage had failed her, and she had turned back, saying to 
the groom, timt she thought it would rain^ so she would go 
home ogam ! Our agent, who was riding with us a short 
distance on our way (receiving final instructions), under- 
took to protect her during our absence. The hills around 
were capped with black clouds, and before we had passed 
the gardens of EElifa a heavy shower commenced We 
drew our hooded cloaks over our heads, and rode on re- 
gardless of it. When we reached the rocky spring of 
Sa'Ideh, the rain-clouds suddenly travelled away in all 
directions, leaving a bright bit of deep blue sky just above 
us ; but on the mountains and over the sea the rain still 
fell, — dark heavy curtains seemed to be hanging from the 
heavens, and they were torn and swayed by the change- 
ful breezes. The spring among the rocks and reeds had 



198 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALE8TINR 

considerably increased in force and extent since I had seen 
it in December. We crossed it cautiously and in safety. 
Many a tree had been torn up by the roots by the winter 
torrents ; and large stone boulders, which a short time 
before were firmly imbedded in the earth, had been under- 
mined, and stood tottering on the hill-side, as if ready to 
faU on us. The rain-refreshed grass and trees and flowers 
glistened in the gleams of sunlight, and filled the air with 
sweet odours. We left the Nazareth road and took a 
south-easterly direction, along the borders of the almost 
dry bed of a branch of the Kishon. We entered the 
" Wady-el-Milh," the Valley of Salt. Among other wild 
flowers on the wayside, I recognised with strange deUght 
patches of " crimson-tipped " daisies. It was midday ; we 
were beginning to feel hungry, and told the guide to pause 
at the nearest spring, that we might alight and eat. We 
met a few camels grazing on mallows and clover ; they 
were branded with marks which told us that they did not 
belong to the peasantry. " These camels proclaim that 
Bedouins are in the neighbourhood ; we will seek them 
out, and take our dinner with them to-day, for wherever 
we find them we shall also find a fountain of good water,'' 
said my brother. When we had rounded the next hill, we 
saw a number of square black tents, high up among the 
rocks and trees on the opposite side of the vaUey. We 
crossed the deep and stony river-bed, and scrambled up 
the pathless hill-side, over rocks and tangled brushwood. 
A group of Bedouins, in their large, heavy, white and 
brown cloaks, and red and yellow fringed shawl head- 
dresses, came leaping down to meet us, and to guide and 
welcome us to their encampment, in the midst of which 
we dismounted. There were fifteen tents altogether. We 
were led towards the sheik's tent, which, like all the rest, 
was formed of very coarse black and brown " curtains of 
goats' hairy' ^ supported by slender trunks of trees and 
strong reeds from the banks of the Jordan. A rude paU- 
sading, of interwoven branches, divided the tent into two 

* See Exod. zzxv. 26 \ xxzvi. 14. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 199 

parts: in the lesser compartment some kids and lambs 
were guarded ; and a group of women hastily retired from 
the other part, that it might be prepared for us. A little, 
half-naked, bronzed Bedouin boy swept the floor of earth 
with the leafy branches of a " box " tree ; and a weather- 
beaten old woman, in tattered garments, but with large 
silver bracelets on her shrivelled arms, came forward and 
spread a rug or carpet for us. It was made of very coarse 
wool, and looked something like crochet-work, or close 
knitting, and was evidently of Bedouin manufacture. We 
were soon seated on it ; and the sheik and a number of 
men, smoking long pipes, took their seats opposite to us, 
in a half-circle, on the ground just outside the open front 
of the tent, thus completely inclosing us. There were 
between sixty and seventy people altogether in the en- 
campment. They had large flocks of sheep and goats 
under their care ; and, as we anticipated, they were near 
to a " fountain of sweet water." 

The sheik wished to have a kid killed for us. We 
declined, as we were in haste ; but though we were pro- 
vided with bread, my brother explained to me that eti- 
quette obliged us to partake of theirs, and he said, " Go 
and find the women, it will be a good opportunity for you 
to see the process of Bedouin bread-making." I went to 
the other end of the encampment, — the glow of a red fire 
between the trees guided me. Two women were skilfully 
stirring and spreading burning embers on the ground with 
their hands, as freely as if fire had no power to hurt them ; 
another was kneading some paste. The rest of the women 
and girls came crowding round me caressingly and won- 
deringly. They stroked my face and hair, and especially 
marvelled at my closely-fitting kid gloves, which I put off 
and on for their amusement. They exclaimed repeatedly, 
" Oh, work of God ! " One of the elder women said, " Where 
are you going, oh my daughter?" I answered, "Oh my 
mother, I am going to 'ElKuds' 'The Holy'" (that is, 
Jerusalem). Then she said, as if by way of explanation 
to the others, " They are pilgrims ; God preserve them ! " 



200 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTIKE. 

The women were all of a dark bronze colour ; their faces 
and arms and necks were tattooed and stained with henna, 
red and orange-colour. Their rather thick, but well-shaped 
lips, were perfectly bltte, indigo having been carefully 
pricked into them, in little spots close together, — it produced 
a very unpleasing effect. The edges of their eyeKds were 
blackened with soot. Their only garments were wide, loose, 
coarse cotton shirts, open at the bosom, — some were black, 
others blue and brown. Over their heads black woollen 
shawls, edged with bright-coloured stripes, were taste- 
fully and simply worn. Many of the women were decked 
with clumsily-wrought silver bracelets, and finger and 
ear-rings: none of them wore shoes. The dirty, tawny 
children were all nearly naked ; but their heads were 
covered with white quilted skull-caps, or red tarbouches, 
to which shells and beads were fastened, — amulets to pro- 
tect the wearers from harm. 

A young mother, more intelligent-looking than her com- 
panions, came forward and saluted me gently. She, unlike 
the rest, wore a crimson shawl on her head, and the edges 
of her long, blue shirt were embroidered round the sleeves, 
and round the neck and bosom, with coarse thread, wrought 
in quaint patterns, such as we see on very old-fashioned 
samplers in cross-stitch. 

She proudly showed me her little swaddled son. The 
complexion of his face was surprisingly fair; in fact, it was 
of a deathly whiteness* This, I was told, is usually the case 
in infancy among the Bedouins. I took the unyielding, 
stiflfened, mummy-like Kttle figure in my arms. His swad- 
dling clothes were of coarse, indigo-coloured cotton, bound 
round symmetrically with narrow strips of crimson leather, 
such as I had seen entwined about the Bedouin spears. The 
mother evidently had considerable taste in the arts of 
adornment, and in every respect she was superior-looking 
to the rest. In the meantime, the bread was being made 
thus: in the open air, on a small circular hearth, formed of 
smooth round stones, spread evenly and close together on 
the ground, a brisk wood fire was kindled. When the stones 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 201 

of this primitive hearth were sufficiently heated, the embers 
were carefully removed, and the well-kneaded paste thrown 
on to the hot stones, and quickly covered with the burning 
ashes. In this way several cakes of unleavened bread were 
soon made ready. I returned to the tent. Our canteen 
and provisions had been unpacked, much to the amusement 
of the men, who were especially pleased with the knives 
and forks, and spoons. Wooden bowls of cream and mUk 
were brought, and the flat cakes of bread were served quite 
hot. They had received the impression of the pebbles of 
which the hearth was composed. This most likely was the 
same sort of bread which Sarah of old made for the stran- 
gers, in obedience to Abraham's desire, when he said, 
"Make ready quickly three measures of fine meal, knead 
it, and make cakes wpcm the hearth!' The women stood in 
a group at a little distance looking on while we cut up our 
cold roast chicken. They had never seen people eat with 
knives and forks before ; it must have appeared very bar- 
barous to them. They laughed shyly, and hid their faces 
with the ends of their shawl head-dresses when they were 
noticed, and suddenly they disappeared altogether, as if in 
obedience to a given signal I made a sketch of Kasim, 
the handsomest and most stately-looking of the men; he 
blushed like a girl when he saw his face in my book. 
He expressed great curiosity about our intended move- 
ments, and was very communicative. The other men asked 
no questions, neither did they seem willing to answer 
any, except in the usual words, " YaMem Allah!' " Grod 
knows." 

After a final cup of coffee had been passed round, we re- 
mounted, and went on our way at about two o'clock, riding 
over hills covered with wild thyme, and through valleys 
where grain, sown by the Bedouins, was springing up, but 
it was thirsting for rain. We rose high on to the Carmel 
range, overlooking the plain of Esdraelon, and sometimes 
catching glimpses of the great sea on our right. We 
rode for a considerable distance without seeing any towns 
or villages, or even tents, or the slightest indication of a 



202 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

road or track, so that I could fancy I was travelling in an 
muBhabited Country, except when we saw a long sLg of 
camels laden with charcoal, or a line of donkeys carrying 
such large burdens of thorns and brushwood, that they 
looked just like hedges moving briskly along. They were 
evidently conveying fuel from a well-wooded district to 
towns and viUages in the treeless plains. We were in 
a part of Palestine rarely, if ever, trodden by strangers, 
where the peculiarities of Eastern travelling are more 
apparent than in the more frequented roads. We dis- 
covered that our guide, who had been directed to conduct 
us towards Arabeh, had misled us, and was taking us by a 
circuitous and unmarked route in order to avoid passing 
near certain villages, where his life would have been in 
danger, for a price was set upon his head by his enemies in 
that district. He* led us into the fertile plains west of the 
Carmel range. Eain began to fall in torrents ; Mohammed, 
our groom, threw a large Arab cloak over me, saying, " May 
Allah preserve youy oh lady, while he is blessing the fields" 
Thus pleasantly reminded, I could no longer feel sorry to 
see the pouring rain, but rode on rejoicing for the sake of 
the sweet spring flowers and the broad fields of wheat and 
barley. 

For two or three hours we had not seen a building of any 
kind, not even a ruined khan in a valley, or a watch-tower 
on the hill-sides. At last we passed a smaU waUed town, 
built on a low rounded hill; the eastern slope of which was 
dotted with white grave-stones, and olive-trees, fruit gardens, 
and ploughed land encircled it In a quarter of an hour we 
came to a little village, where the rude dwellings were 
crowded closely together, as if for safety, and flocks and 
herds fed in the neighbourhood, guarded by shepherds fuUy 
armed. The rain ceased, and the sun shone out for a few 
minutes, with a red glow, over a waving field of wheat, and 
then went down. We desired the guide to halt at the next 
village. We rode on southwards, and in about twenty 
minutes reached a place called "Khubeizeh," on account 
of the abundance of mallows growing wild in the neigh- 



I>OMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE, ^ 203 

bourhood. A barricade of mud surrounded the village. The 
houses were so low that even I could not have stood up- 
right in any one of them. Some were merely hollow cones 
of earthy others were square and roofed with brushwood. 
Some were like burrows, scarcely above the ground, and all 
were desperately dirty. The narrow streets, or paths be- 
tween the houses, were mud and slime and standing water. 
The wretched-looking inhabitants followed us about or 
peeped at us from their miserable abodes ; and a troop of 
dogs barked in loud chorus as we traversed the village in 
all directions. We found no spot suitable for a halting- 
place, so we hastened onwards and soon arrived at Meh§,f, 
a crowded hamlet, quite as uninviting as Khubeizeh. The 
guide assured us we should find safe shelter at Kefr Kara, a 
Moslem village about three miles farther south. (No 
Christians inhabit any of the villages iri this district.) We 
decided to go on, although it was already very dark. Eed, 
blinking watchfires could be seen here and there on the 
hills around, and rain began to faU as we rode across the 
plain 'as quickly as the darkness would let us. We sent 
our kawass on before, to announce our approach to the 
sheik .of Kefr Kara, and when we arrived he (the sheik) 
was at the entrance of the village, attended by a lantern- 
bearer, ready to receive us, and he said, " Welcome^ 
and be <U resty we are your sei'vantSy all that we have is 
yours'' 

We found Kefr Kara larger and rather superior to the 
other villages ; there was only one stone house in it, how- 
ever, and to that we were immediately conducted. We 
gladly dismounted at the open door, within which we 
could see the glow and smoke of a large wood fire. I found 
the house consisted of only one very lofty room, about 
eighteen feet square. The roof of heavy beams and tree- 
branches, blackened with smoke, was supported by two 
wide-spreading arches. The walls were of roughly-hewn 
blocks of stone, not plastered in any way. Just within the 
door, a donkey and a yoke of oxen stood ; and I soon per- 
ceived that rather more than one-third of the room was set 



204 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

apart for cattle, where the floor, which was on a level with 
the street, was of earth, and partially strewn with fodder. We 
were led up two stone steps on to a dais, twenty-two inches 
high, where fragments of old mats and carpets were spread, 
and where three venerable-looking old men (one of whom 
was quite blind) sat smoking. They rose and welcomed us, 
and then resumed their pipes in silence. They wore large 
white turbans and dark robes. Their long beards were 
bushy and grey. Their feet were naked, for they had left 
their red shoes by the steps leading on to the dais. The 
sheik took down some mats and cushions from a recess in 
the wall, and arranged them for us on the floor. In the 
meantime, the mule was led in and unladen, and our two 
horses were unsaddled and lodged in the lower part of the 
room. The sheik asked us to allow his oxen to remain 
there, as it was likely to be a wet night. My brother con- 
sented, but desired that no others should be brought in, 
and that shelter should be found elsewhere for the horses of 
our servants and attendants. If early in the middle of the 
raised floor, the large fire, made of piled-up wood and 
thorns, and resinous evergreen shrubs, was burning briskly. 
Three deep troughs, or mangers, about three feet by one, 
were hollowed out of the broad stone coping at the edge 
of the dais. Mohammed, our groom, filled these troughs 
with barley, and our tired animals enjoyed their evening 
meaL 

While our supper was in course of preparation, the 
sheik, at my request, took me to see his wives. He led 
me out into the darkness ; a little lantern which he carried, 
partially lighted the muddy streets, and was reflected in 
many a pool of standing water. My guide paused in front 
of an irregular building of mud and stone, and, without 
saying a word by way of introduction, left me alone at the 
threshold of the wide-open door. Just within it, I saw a 
group of harsh-voiced, loudly-taJking women standing in 
front of an immense wood fire, which was burning on a 
raised floor, about three feet high. They were evidently 
entertaining another group of women, who sat on the dais 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 205 

roTind the fire, silently and eagerly listening; and the 
leaping flames lighted up their large dark eyes, their long, 
glistening teeth, and the silver coins of their head-dresses. 
I stood for a moment watching them, before I claimed 
their attention. 

There was no outlet for the smoke, except a hole over 
the door ; so it was rather difficult, at first, to distinguish 
the shape of the room. There were curiously-irregular 
projections, and niches, and recesseSj where mattresses 
were piled up, and jars and cooking utensils were arranged. 
The walls were of baked mud or clay, blackened with 
smoke. "When I announced myself, some of the young 
girls uttered exclamations of wonder and fear, imagining: 
me to be a spirit; but the elder women silenced them, and 
welcomed me calmly and kindly, without showing any 
signs of surprise, though I was afterwards assured that I 
was the first Afranji {ie. European) lady who had ever 
paid a visit to Kafr E[§ra. 

The women who stood below lifted me on to the dais^ 
the roof over which was so low that I could only just 
stand upright. I sat down with the group round the fire, 
and took off my hat and hooded cloak, and one of the 
women undertook to dry them. They were all exceedingly 
astonished that I only kept my head covered when out of 
doors (heads are never uncovered in the East, except as a 
sign of deep mourmng). The women were dark, dirty, and 
rather haggard-looking, but dignified in their manners and 
movements. The girls were strong and handsome, but their 
well-shaped mouths and lower jaws were disproportionately 
large. They aU wore head-dresses of silver coins, Uke 
the women of Nazareth, with the addition of three or 
seven chains of silver links and coins, hanging from the 
end of the head-dress on each side (in the same way that 
unfastened bonnet-strings hang). Their dresses were of 
dark indigo-coloured cotton, very thick and coarse, open 
at the front, like loose pelisses, girdled and worn over 
white shirts and dark cotton trousers. Their arms and 
faces were tattooed with spots and stars, their eyebrows 



206 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

were blackened with a thick pigment, and their eyelids 
stained with soot. Many of them wore silver bracelets. 
The raeeed and half-naked tawny children were aeile and 
rapid S their movements, observant, and mischievous. 
The young girls were soon satisfied that I was not a spirit, 
and they became very demonstrative and caressing, and 
were fuU of curiosity. One of them took a flaming brand 
from the fire, and held it near to my face, that she and 
the rest might see me more plainly. A very old woman, 
who seemed to have authority over them, rebuked them, 
sayitigj *' Be silent, oh foolish ones ! if the stranger had a 
hundred tongues, she could not answer all your questions ; 
and do you not see that the poor child is tired ? Let her 
rest in peace." Then they made coffee for me ; and while 
I was taking it, a boy, better dressed than the others, came 
bounding in, exclaiming, " Where is the white lady ? The 
Afranjt win not eat till she comes." So I rose and fol- 
lowed him into the street, where the sheik awaited me 
with the lantern. 

I returned to the house. My brother had caused the 
wood fire to be removed, for the smoke almost suffocated 
us. A smaU red clay lamp stood in a niche in the wall, 
and the lantern was placed in a recess near the door. Our 
supper of grilled chickens, hot bread, and sweet cream, was 
spread for us on the floor of the dais ; and a large wooden 
bowl of dried peas boiled in oil, and a dish of lebbeny, 
or sour mUk, and cakes of bread, were brought for our 
attendants and servants, who were grouped together with 
the horses in the lower part of the room. After we had 
eaten, a number of the villagers came to see us. They all 
smoked their pipes, and drank their coffee, almost in 
silence, with the exception of the old blind man, who 
asked many questions ; and, as if privileged by his blind- 
ness, he begged me to put my hand in his, and then told 
me to tell him what I was like, that he might see me in 
his thoughts. He said, "Are you young, or are you old? 
Your voice is soft, Hke the voice of a little child ; but your 
words are wise." 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 207 

By degrees our silent guests left us ; and, last of all, the 
gentle old blind man, led by the sheik, went away, wishing 
us rest and peace. The latter promised he would send us 
some pillows and mattresses to sleep on. No women had 
visited us. Just as we were wondering what sort of bed- 
ding we should have that night, to my great surprise and 
delight, the Arab-Jewish upholsterer, who had worked for 
me at H&ifa, made his appearance, carrying a nice new 
mattress, quilt, and red silk pillow. He was a pedlar uphol- 
sterer, but his head-quarters were at H^a. He had been 
engaged at Kefp Kara making a stock of lehaffs and mat- 
resses for an approaching wedding ; and directly he heard 
of my arrival, he insisted on bringing one of the new mat- 
tresses for me. He spread it in a comer of the dais ; then 
he brought another for my brother, and a third for the 
French Consul's secretary, and did all he could to make us 
comfortable. I was so tired, that I was glad to lie down 
directly, on the sheetless mattress, resting my head on the 
red siUc pillow. I covered my faee with a handkerchief, 
and tried to forget where I was ; remaining resolutely stilly 
notwithstanding the attacks of a multitude of fleas. I had 
often encountered large assemblies of these lively little 
tormenters ; but their numbers were os nothing in com- 
parison with the fleas of Kefr Kara. 

A large cat, walking gently and cautiously over my 
head, startled me out of a dreamy and restless sleep. I 
roused myseK and looked about — ^it was midnight, the 
lamp was still burning, and by its dim light I could make 
out the strange groups around. The first object my eyes 
fell upon was the tall African messenger. He was on the 
dais, standing upright, leaning his back against the opposite 
wall His arms were folded, his eyes were wide open and 
staring. He looked immovable as a statue ; his white turban, 
and the shining light of his eyes, made his head appear the 
most conspicuous object in the roouL My brother was 
soundly sleeping on a mattress not far from me, and beyond 
him the Arab-secyetary, quite concealed under heavy quilts, 
was loudy snoring. The armed guide and our kawass, 



208 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

rolled up in their cloaks and carpets, were lying on the 
edge of the dais, their saddle-bags and saddle-cloths serving 
as piQows. The muleteer resting on the luggage, and our 
groom Mohammed, on a heap of fodder, were just below, 
with the tethered horses. The air of the room was heated 
and oppressive, and dense with tobacco smoke ; inhere was 
no window, but over the closed door there were five smaU 
round holes. There were two deep arched recesses in the 
walls for mattresses and jars, &c., and in a recess in the 
lower paxt of the room the saddles and horse-trappings 
of our little party were piled. In the stone wall, close to my 
resting-place, was the trap-door of a com granary. I could 
hear rats and mice within, nibbling and scratching, and the 
grey cat again and again returned to post herself on my 
pillow. I sat up ; my horse started out of his sleep, neighed 
and shook himself ; walking as far as his halter would let 
him, disturbing the repose of all the rest, and especially of 
the donkey. The groom rose, trimmed the lamp, spoke a 
few comforting words to his favourite horse, then rolled 
himself up in his camel-hair cloak and crouched down on 
the heap of fodder. In a little while there was silence and 
sleep all aroimd again; but I was sleepless. The mysterious- 
looking figure of the black man completely fascinated me, 
I could not long together keep my eyes turned away from 
him, he did not move a muscle or blink his great shining 
eyes. I could not decide whether he was asleep or awake ; 
though I looked at him tiU I was almost mesmerised. I 
rested my head on my pillow ftill of thought. Suddenly 
the idea entered my mind that it must have been in such 
a house as this that 'Christ was born; for, it was winter- 
time when, in obedience to the decree of Caesar Augustus, 
Joseph the carpenter, of the house and lineage of David, 
went up from Galilee, out of the city of Nazareth, into 
Judaea, unto the city of David, which is called Bethlehem; 
to be taxed or enrolled with Mary his espoused wife. 

I imagined Joseph anxiously seeking shelter and rest 
for her after her long journey. All the guest-chambers 
were already filled, and there was no room in the inn — 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 209 

that is, there was no room for them in the " house of rest 
for wayfarers," " the place of unlading!' The raised floor 
was crowded with strangers^ who had, like them, oome to 
be taxed. But Joseph and Mary may have taken refuge 
from the cold in the lower part of the room. In imagi- 
nation I could see them, half-hidden by the cattle, and 
warmed by the blazing fire of wood and crackling thorns 
burning on the raised floor close by. 

" And so it was, that while they were there, the days 
were accomplished that slie should be delivered. And 
she brought forth her firstborn Son, and wrapped Him in 
swaddling clothes, and laid Him in a manger." The manger 
was very likely close by her side, hollowed out at the edge 
of the daisi and filled with soft winter fodder. I raised 
my head and looked at one of the mangers, and I felt how 
natural it was to use it as a cradle for a newly born 
infant. Its size, its shape, its ^oft bed of fodder, its near- 
ness to the warm fire, always burning on the dais in mid- 
winter, would immediately suggest the idea to an Eastern 
mother. I fell asleep, picturing to myself the whole scene 
— "the babe, wrapped in swaddling clothes," " lying in the 
rmnger'' Joseph and Mary joyfully watching over Him, 
and the strangers and shepherds pronouncing blessings and 
congratulations. 

When I awoke in the early morning, the level rays of 
the sun were streaming in at the wide-open door. The black 
man had gone. The Vice-consul was sitting up on his 
mattress, performing his toilet under difficulties, his kawass 
acting as valet. The dragoman beyond was shaking the 
long purple silk tassel of his red tarbouche into shape. 
The horses and other animals had been led away ; and 
crowds of people stood at the door looking in. I kept 
c[iiietly concealed under my quilt till my brother and all 
the men had disappeared; and then some women came, 
bringing water to pour over my hands. At my request 
they closed the door, and the five round holes above it 
admitted daylight and a number of silvery-winged doves. 
They came one after the other, fluttered once round the room 

p 



210 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

near to the rafters, and then flew away again in regular 
order. The women were exceedingly interested with the 
contents of my dressing-case, and wished to make experi- 
ments with them, but to this I decidedly objected. They 
had never heard of such a thing as a tooth-brush, yet theii' 
teeth (which reminded me of the teeth of wild animals, 
especially of the feline race) were as bright, regular, and 
healthy-looking as possible. Perhaps one of the causes of 
this is, that they invariably wash and cleanse their mouths 
thoroughly, immediately after every meal.* Almost all 
Orientals adopt this excellent custom, but by the Moslems 
it is regarded as a religious and obligatory ceremony, and 
the act is accompanied by an ejaculatory prayer for purity. 
I had necessarily slept in my clothes. I shook myself 
into order as well as I could, and resumed my riding-habit, 
while the women rolled up the mattresses and lehaffs and 
carried them away. Then I was led to the house which 
I had visited on the previous evening. The hostess wore 
a striped silk red and purple pelisse, or open dress, instead 
of the cotton one in which I had seen her before. She 
received me very cordially, and would not allow any 
intruders to enter while I had some new milk, bread, 
and coffee, and made notes of my night thoughts. It was 
rumoured that the manuscript book which I carried con- 
tained talismanic directions for seeking treasures. It had 
a patent lock and key, and a book thus guarded had never 
before been seen there. 

In the meantime, my brother was breakfasting with the 
sheik elsewhere, gleaning valuable information and plan- 
ning the day's journey. We afterwards met in the large 
room (of which I made a rough sketch and measurements). 
It had been swept, and the dais was garnished with reed 
matting and cushions, and two old, fringed carpets, about 
the size of ordinary hearth-rugs. We sat down together, 
and consulted our maps (Eobinson s and a French one). 

* Is this custom indirectly alluded to in Amos iy. 6, where it is written, 
"I have given you cleanness of teeth and want of bread in all your 
places"? 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 211 

As regarded that district, they proved very contradictory, 
and did not assist us much * 

At eight o'clock our horses and attendants were ready. 
We mounted, and rode slowly. We were surrounded and 
followed by a great number of the villagers. The sheik 
was in earnest conversation with my brother. The old 
blind man walked by my side, with his hand resting on 
the neck of my horse, which was carefully led by the 
wandering Jew upholsterer along the uneven and crooked 
streets. We paused when we came to the threshing-floor, 
outside the village, and there took leave of our Kefr Kam 
friends. The blind man pressed my hand to his lips and 
to his forehead, saying, "May Allah preserve you, oh 
my daughter, and keep you from all harm." With bless- 
ings and pleasant words ringing in our ears, we cantered 
quickly over a broad cultivated plain, across a stony river- 
bed, and then rose on to a range of hills, dark with ever- 
green oaks, and carpeted with wild flowers. We rode 
eastward, overlooking plains and valleys. The black man 
was still with us. I was informed that he was an invete- 
rate opium-eater, and always slept in a standing or sitting 
posture, with his eyes wide open. 

In half an hour we came to a little, crowded, mud and 
stone village at the edge of a wood. Here we dismissed 
our guide, for we could not depend upon him. He had 
enemies in the district, and travelled in fear. We alighted. 
A carpet was spread for us on a grassy and shady slope 
just above a threshing-floor, and there we took pipes and 
coffee with the sheik. The elders and chief men of the 
village, in their great camel-hair cloaks and white turbans, 
sat on the ground in a half circle opposite to us. They 
were fully armed* After the usual greetings and compli- 
ments, they eagerly asked for "khubber," that is, news, 
saying, "Whence do you come, oh my lord, and what 

* Eyen on the chart lUustrating Murray's delightful Handbook, Kefr 
Kara and Khubeizeh are not marked. But on a map in the Weekly Dispatch 
Atlas J Khubeizeh, and the villageB in its neighbourhood, may be found, 
and they appear to me to be quite correctly placed. 

p2 



212 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

tidings do you bring?" They were all very active and 
energetic-looking, commnnicative, and inquiring ; differing 
in these respects from the Bedouins we had met in the 
Valley of Salt, and from the villagers of Kefr Kara. I 
asked my brother how this striking contrast could be 
accounted for. He said, " This valley is in a very lonely, 
unprotected, and fertile spot. It is on the confines of the 
Djebel NabMis, a district which is very frequently dis- 
turbed, as at present, by civil war. The inhabitants are 
obliged to be constantly on the alert, and prepared for any 
emergency. This perhaps gives them, that look of activity 
and intelligence, which is common to all people who are 
habitually exposed to great dangers, and who energetically 
but cautiously prepare to meet them." An animated ex- 
change of news took place. The young men and boys 
stood in little groups around, while the elders smoked and 
talked by turns. 

Just beyond the village there were some ragged black 
hair tents among the trees. They belonged to a party of 
gipsy tinkers and blacksmiths, who journey from village 
to village, just as their brethren do in the lonely parts 
of England; committing depredations in the farmyards, 
and sometimes breaking iuto houses. These gipsies came 
out of their tents to look at us. Their complexions were 
very dark. The men had rather a sullen and stern 
expression of coimtenance, and were clothed in sack- 
cloth, girdled with leather straps. Black shawls were 
fastened on their heads with ropes made of camel 
hair, in Bedouin style. The women and girls seemed 
hardy, bold, and daring, but good-natured. Their features 
were strongly marked. They approached and examined 
me with curiosity, and expressed surprise that I travelled 
without any female attendants.. In their greetings I ob- 
served that they did not utter the name of Allah, though 
it is generally the first word on the lips of an Arab woman. 
I do not know whether this avoidance is usual in gipsy 
salutations. The women wore long, heavy, dark, ungirdled 
shirts, made of coarse wool (not unlike the shapeless gowns 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 213 

provided for female bathers at English watering-places). 
They had no other garment, except a shawl or kerchief tied 
over their heads, from under which their straggling un- 
braided black hair escaped. Broad silver armlets adorned 
their tattooed arms, and clumsy cabalistic rings were dis- 
played on some of the swarthy hands, to protect the 
wearers from harm. 

The boys were naked, or nearly so. They tried to attract 
my notice by vigorously turning somersets, walking on 
:heir heads, and suspending themselves from high tree- 
branches by their pliant feet 

These gipsies, besides attending to their tinkering, per- 
form most astounding feats of jugglery, g5annastics, and 
magia When they visit towns or large villages, they are 
gladly engaged by the inhabitants to tell fortunes, inter- 
pret dreams and dark sayings, and to give entertainments 
in private houses or in the market-places. I have several 
times seen companies of this mysterious race of people in 
H4ifa, and have witnessed their exhibitions of necromancy, 
or rather sleight-of-hand, by torchlight in the open air. 
Among other performances, they call a boy out of the 
midst of the crowd. Then, to all appearancey they cut him 
into six pieces { After a few minutes of intense excitement 
and suspense of the lookers-on, the separated portions of 
the body are reimited, and the restored boy jumps up and 
runs away. The Arabs generally, and especially of the lower 
classes, firmly believe in the occult power of the gipsies. 
They are hated and feared, yet patronised and encouraged 
to a remarkable degree. These people speak Arabic, but 
they also have a language peculiar to themselves. The late 
learned lODr. Dufif told us that the language of the gipsies 
in India, of which he had made a vocabulary, was some- 
what similar to it, and many words were identical. These 
people are very mischievous, and when they are in the 
neighbourhood, it is necessary to look well after the fowls, 
lambs, and kids, and to set a double watch in the orchards 
and vineyards, and the gardens of cucumbers. 
The village sheik provided us with a guide to conduct 



^14} DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

US to Arrabeh, and we remounted. The gipsy women 
could not understand how I ciould ride with both my feet 
on the same side of the horse. They said, " The hills round 
about Arrabeh are very steep, my lady, you will fall from 
your horse if you sit like that." We rode for a short dis- 
tance southward, with the Great Sea now and then visible 
on our right hand. Then we turned abruptly eastward, 
and pursued our way for about two miles in single file, 
in a narrow path, under the shade of trees. The glossy- 
leaved evergreen oak and the hawthorn were the most 
conspicuous. Cyclamen, ferns, mezereons, mosses and 
lichens grew on and round the rocks in the deep 
shade ; while here and there in sunny glades wide-open 
ranunculi, anemones, dandelions, and daisies appeared. 
Some of the tree branches were covered with gall berries. 
We lingered to examine the ruins of an ancient town, 
of which no tradition even is left. There were large 
bevelled blocks of stone, foundations of walls, smaU tes- 
sserse, and other traces of human art, extending for about 
half a mile along the hill-side. We did not see any sculp- 
tures or inscriptions. Our guide could not tell us any- 
thing about the place. He said it was called " El Khirbeh," 
" The Ruinr A shepherd whom we saw seefted on the edge 
or parapet of an ancient cistern gave us the same unsatis- 
factory answer. We descended into a broad plain, where 
thorns and thistles flourished ; lilies of the valley (the first 
I had seen), and a griBat variety of the orchis tribe grew 
among them. The gnat and bee orchis were beautifully 
developed. Hundreds of tiny birds were disturbed by our 
approach, and flew out of their nests in the low bushes, 
chirruping and singing. We gathered wild thyme, and 
gladly ate it with the bread which we had brought 
from H^ifa, for the morning air had sharpened our appe- 
tites. Lizards ran over the white rocks, and a hare now and 
then darted across our path. 

As we rode onwards, my brother carefully explained to 
me the difficulties attending the government of the Djebel 
Nablfts district, which we were then approaching. He 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 215 

said, "The town of Nabl6s, the seat of government, con- 
tains about twelve thousand inhabitants. Of these only- 
three hundred are Christians, fifty are Jews, and nearly 
two hundred are Samaritans. The rest are Moslems of the 
most fierce and fanatical class. 

" In the surrounding mountains there are four great fac- 
tions, always at enmity with each other. They are, 1st. 
the Abdul Hady family, whose head-quarters are at 
Arrabeh; and 2d. the JerrarSy who possess a fortress at 
Sen^. They each sprang from the peasantry, and have 
a large number of followers in almost every village in the 
district. 3d. The Tokan tribe ; which has great influence 
among kindred tribes in the eastern desert. 4th. The 
Rayan, who are of Bedouin origin, and very powerful ; 
they congregate west of Nabhis. From one of these four 
great rival factions, the governor of Nablds is generally 
chosen, and duly appointed by the Pasha of Jerusalem. 

"When a governor, for some offence (or through in- 
ability to satisfy the rapacity of the efifendis, and other 
followers of the pasha), is put out of office, some member 
of a rival faction immediately repairs to head-quarters. With 
larg6 sums of money, and presents, he buys the goodwill 
of the pasha's secretaries, and chief councillors, and through 
their mediation and influence succeeds to the governor- 
ship. As soon as he is installed in office, he uses all means 
in his power, just or unjust, to recover with interest 
the money which he had dispensed in bribes. He levies 
impositions on the poor and unprotected, plunders with 
impunity all who dare not or cannot resist his power. It 
devolves upon him to appoint the sheiks of all the villages 
in the district. Those who were already in office under his 
predecessor are allowed to remain if they make sufficient 
and appropriate presents to him at the time of his Reces- 
sion. If they neglect to do this, the offices are given to 
those who make larger offers. 

" This state of affairs has lasted for many years, and in 
the year 1851, 500 people were killed and as many 
wounded, in a conflict between these rival factions. The 



216 DOMESTIC LUTE IN PALESTINE. 

consequence was that a decree was made that none of either 
family should ever again fill any important office in Djebel 
Nablfts. But," continued my brother, " this decree has been 
disregarded, and the Abdul Hady family has succeeded in 
ingratiating itself with the government — ^Mahmoud Bek 
Abdul Hady is diief governor of Nablfts — his cousin Saleh 
Bek is governor of Hdifa, whose brother, Mohammed 
Bek, reigns at Arrabeh, the sti*onghold of the family. On 
account of the present rebellion af the people against 
Mahmoud Bek, the chief governor, Kamiel Pasha has en- 
camped at NabKis with a large body of cavalry, but he is 
in great difficulty. He is surrounded by intriguing coun- 
cillors, who do not scruple to take bribes, and bind them- 
selves to factions; My mission just now is simply to 
watch carefully, and report to Mr. Finn all that is going on, 
and to find out, if possible, the real position of affairs, 
without interfering or taking any part in them. In this 
you may be able to help me a little, by quietly observing 
the state of the towns, for we shall probably be apart from 
each other in Arrabeh and Senftr. The fact of your being 
my fellow-traveller will perhaps induce people to receive 
us into their strongholds the more readily and unsus- 
pectingly." Thus informed, I felt a greatly increased 
interest in the expedition. We were still riding in the 
plain, but thorns and thistles had given place to fields of 
wheat and barley, and ploughed land. The sun was shining 
overhead, but rain was falling on the terraced hills before 
us, where olive-groves and blossoming fruit-trees flourished. 
As we approached them, we felt the heavy drops, and were 
soon in the midst of a shower. We rode quicldy through 
it, and descended into a narrow valley, at the end of which, 
on a rocky hill, brightened by a gleam of sunshine, we 
could see the town of Arrabeh, with its embattled walls 
and towerSw After a very difficult ascent over smooth slabs 
of rock and loose stones, like a steep and irregular stair- 
way, we reached Arrabeh. It was past midday, and was 
pouring with rain, as we entered its great iron-bound, 
well-guarded gates. This is one of the best walled towns 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 217 

in Palestine, but is almost unknown to travellers, being 
out of the usual route. (It is not even mentioned in 
Murray's Handbook, but is marked on his map.) 

The houses all looked like small castles — ^they are 
square, and with parapets round their flat, terraced roofs. 
We went direct to the residence of Mohammed Bek Abdul 
Hady, the governor of the town. His house, like aU 
Moslem town-houses, was divided into two distinct parts ; 
the men occupying one part, called the divan, and the 
ladies living in the other, which is called the harim. 
The ground floor was occupied by horses and soldiers, 
and there our attendants and servants were lodged. 
We mounted an uncovered stone staircase, crossed a 
large courtyard, and entered the divan ; a vaulted chamber 
with wide arched windows on three sides, commanding 
views of the vaUey and the town gate. The deep low 
window-seats were cushioned and carpeted. Here no 
ladies ever appear. I was told afterwards that I was the 
only woman who had ever crossed its threshold. We 
found that the governor himseK was absent, but we were 
very courteously received by his relations, and they said, 
kissing our hands : " This house is your house, and we are 
at your service." They expressed great surprise to see us 
on a journey while the coimtry was so disturbed. They 
said that every day there were skirmishes in the neigh- 
bourhood, and at least one hundred and fifty people had 
been killed within a few days. Flocks were stolen, and 
camels were constantly waylaid and robbed of their bur- 
dens. A battle had been fought on the previous day, near 
to Arrabeh, and many lives were sacrificed. The sons and 
nephews of the governor told us about it; they were 
engaged in the fight. One boy of about sixteen years of 
age showed us how he threw himself on the ground and 
pretended to be dead, and thus escaped a death-blow. He 
exhibited his spear stained with blood, and his pistols, of 
which he was very proud. They were of English manu- 
facture. 

The younger sons, aged about ten and eleven, were told 



218 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

to conduct me to the harim. They carefully led me over 
terraced roofs, through courts and halls and passages, till 
we reached the female quarter. I was taken to a large 
vaulted room, with whitewashed walls and stone floors, 
lighted only from the wide open door, for as glass case- 
ments are not used, the wooden window shutters were 
closed to keep out the rain. My young guides, Selim and 
Said, ran before me, and cried out exultingly, " An English 
girl ! an English girl ! come ! see ! " I entered, and in a 
moment was surrounded by a little crowd of women, 
dressed in very brilliant costumes. They were of various 
complexions — from the black Abyssinian slave girls in 
crimson and silver, to the olive and bronze coloured Arabs 
in violet and gold. 

They pounced upon me as if I were a new toy for them. 
They kissed me one after the other, and stroked my face. 
They had never seen 8t European, and told me that no 
daughter of the Franks had ever entered their town before. 

They said, " Be welcome, oh sister from a far country, 
this house is yours, and we are your servants." Then they 
asked me with whom, and how, and whence I had come. 
The ladies wore full long trousers, made of coloured silk ; 
short tight jackets, made of cloth or velvet, embroi- 
dered with gold ; and flowers and jewels in their head- 
dresses. The servants wore cotton suits, and the slaves 
red cloth. They wondered to see my plain, long, dark, 
riding dress and hat. I told them I wished to change my 
clothes, as they were wet. 

The boys went to order my portmanteau to be brought 
to the precincts of the harim, and then two slaves fetched 
it. As soon as I had imlocked it, the ladies, servants, and 
children, one and all, began examining its contents. In 
a minute or two it was actually almost empty. Mantles, 
morning and evening dresses, nightgowns, and collars 
were passing from hand to hand, and as the uses of 
them were not known, they were put on in aU sorts of 
fantastic ways. One of the girls took a little lace collar, 
and placed it tastefully on her forehead ; she thought it 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 219 

was part of a head-dress. I was very much amused, but 
was obliged to put a stop to their mis^ief, by telliiig 
them to put everything back into the box : they did so 
directly. I had already discovered that Arab women are 
like children ; they almost always submit immediately to 
gentle but unhesitating firmness. 

Then I dressed in the same room ; for they said they 
had not any other for their use. I fancy it was because 
they wished to see aU my clothes and how I put them on, 
theirs being so very dififerent to ours. They told me that I 
wore too many dresses at the same time. They wear only a 
shirt of thin cotton or crape made high to the throat, open 
at the bosom, and with long, wide sleeves. Very full 
trousers, drawn in and tied round the waist and below the 
knee, but falling in graceful folds nearly to the ground ; 
and an open, short jacket, with a shawl tied round the 
waist like a sash or girdle. They kindly sent away my 
wet garments to be dried at the oven, and made a comfort- 
able seat of cushions for me on the floor. One lady made 
some sweet sherbet of pomegi*anates and handed it to me. 
A second brought me coflfee in a little china cup without 
any handle, held in another one (exactly the shape and 
size of a common egg-cup) made of prettily embossed and 
chased silver. 

Then Sit Hablbl sat by my side smoking a narghil^ 
and in answer to my questions she told me that she was 
the eldest wife of Mohammed Bek, the Governor of Arra- 
beh, and she pointed out to me two other ladies who were 
also his wives. -Then, at my request, she introduced to me 
the three wives of Saleh Bek, the Governor of H&ifa. They 
were very much astonished when I told them that I knew 
their husband, Saleh Bek, very well, and brought messages 
from him. They could not understand it, as they never had 
heard of a woman seeing any men except her own rela- 
tions. A Moslem lady may not even see her future husband 
until the wedding-day. One of the wives asked me rather 
suspiciously if Saleh Bek had established a harim at 
Haifa. I soon reassured and satisfied them on that point. 



222 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

and their children and servants in Arabic, and a descrip- 
tion of their dresses in English. I found that Helweh was 
born at Kefr Kara, and she told me how all the viQages 
near to it were called. I explained the use of my map, 
and how by looking at it I conld tell tlie direction of Sendr 
and other towns. Then they cried out more and more, " Oh, 
work of God ! " for they hiad never heard that it was pos- 
sible for a woman to learn to read or write. They knew 
that men could do so, and their own sons went to a day- 
school at the Mosque where, a learned dervish taught them 
to intone the Koran and to write a little. But the women 
believed that boys possessed some peculiar faculty which 
enabled them to study and to understand the mystery of 
unspoken words. Even Selim and Said, my little guides, 
were surprised, and said, " Mashallah !' the stranger knows 
the writing of our language." 

At about three o'clock (which they call the ninth hour) 
some black women, almost hidden in white sheets, brought 
in dinner. The first woman carried a little low wooden 
stand, inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearL She put it 
down on the floor opposite to me. Then another woman 
placed on it an old, round, heavy metal tray, engraved with 
sentences in Arabic from the Koran* A large towel em- 
broidered with gold thread was handed to me. After these 
preparations I was glad to see something to eat, for I was 
very hungry. The tray was soon quite covered with the 
following dishes : — A small metal dish of fried eggs. A 
wooden bowl of lebben, or sour milk. A bowl of sweet 
cream made of goat's milk. A dish of very stiff starch, like 
hlanc mange, sweetened with rose-leaf candy, with almonds 
and pistachio nuts chopped up in it. A large dish of rice 
boiled in butter, with little pieces of fried mutton all over 
the top. A plate of walnuts, dried fruits, and sugared 
almonds and leinon-peel. 

A black slave girl, with short scarlet cloth trousers and 
scarlet jacket, silver necklace, armlets and anklets, stood 
by me, holding a silver saucer in her hand, filled with 
water, ready for me to drink whenever I wished for it. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 223 

There was not a knife nor even a spoon to be seen, and 
I could find no plate for my especial usa I washed my 
hands and was invited to take up the food from any of 
the dishes, with a piece of a large flat loaf, very like leather. 
They soon perceived that I was not much accustomed to 
that mode of eating, so they brought me a large wooden 
cooking spoon, at which the little ones laughed heartily. 
I wished the ladies to eat with me, but they would not. They 
allowed SeUm and Said to do so, however, and they soon, 
twisted their flat loaves into the shape of spoons> and helped 
themselves to milk and eggs, but the meat and rice they 
took up neatly in their hands. The ladies stood round all 
the while, to see that I had everything I required. 

When I had eaten, the tray was moved into the middle 
of the room, and a large metal basin with a perforated 
cover was placed before me. On the top of it was a cake of 
native soap, and as I rubbed my hands with it, water was 
poured over them from a curious silver jug, something like 
an old-fashioned cofiee-pot, with a long, thin, curved spout. 
One continuous stream ran over my hands, and disappeared 
through the cover of the basin. The embroidered towel was 
handed to me again, with some water to rinse my mouth. 

All the women (that is, the three wives of the governor 
and the three wives of his brother Saleh Bek), with their 
children, sat down on the matted floor round the tray, and 
dipping their hands together into the various dishes, they 
soon finished the simple meal. Two or three more dishes of 
rice were brought in. Each woman rose as soon as she was 
satisfied, had water poured over her hands, and washed her 
mouth. Afterwards strong coffee without milk or sugar was 
passed round. The servants and slaves then assembled at 
the tray, and ate with astonishing speed and voracity, and 
quickly all traces of dinner were cleared away. 

Chibouques (pipes with red earthenware bowls and long 
tubes made of cherry-stick or jasmine, with ebony mouth- 
pieces) were handed to the elderly ladies, and two or three 
narghiles to the others, who took them in turn. After 
Helweh had smoked for a few minutes, she inclined her 



224 DOBCEBTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

head gracefully, placed one hand on her bosom, touched 
her forehead with the pliant tube, and then handed it to 
the lady sitting next to her, who happened to be the second 
wife of her own husband, Saleh Bek. Thus it was trans- 
ferred from one smoker to another, even to the handmaidens, 
with the words, " May it give you pleasure." This politeness 
and ceremony is strictly observed among the Moslems even 
between the nearest relations. The prescribed forms of 
greeting in habitual use, appear to me to have the efifect of 
keeping comparative peace and harmony in the harims. 

A very beautiful narghil(5 was prepared especially for me. 
It was at least half a yard high. The glass vase or bottle 
was clear as crystal, and well cut. It was filled with water, 
in which rose-leaves were floating. At the top of the long- 
necked vase was a well-chased solid silver bowl, holding 
the burning charcoal and Persian tumbac. The pliable 
snake-like tube or hose connected with it, wag covered 
with red velvet and bound with gold wire ; it was about 
four yards long. The mouthpiece was of amber, set with 
rubies and turquoise. The smoke passed through the water, 
bubbling and disturbing tho red-rose leaves, and then travel- 
led up the long tube. Thus the fragrant fumes of the tumbac 
were cooled and purified before they reached my lips. 

I observed that there was a littlo whispering and con- 
sultation going on among the women, and then Helweh 
came and sat by me and said, " Are you married ? " I said 
" No," and they answered, " Why then have you left your 
father and mother? are they not kind to you?" I told 
them how good they were, and how my mother taught me 
to speak and read and write my own language, and the 
languages of other people. I tried to make th^m under- 
stand how English parents educate their children. 

Werdeh said, " It is much better to marry and to stay at 
home than to travel about the country; for the dangers are 
great now in this time of war, and the women should stay 
at home." 

Sit Sara said, " Werdeh has spoken wisely ; why do you 
not marry?" 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 225 

I answered, " Ya sitti, there €tre no men of my country 
here ; how can I marry ? " 

S4ra then said, " Tou speak our language like a stranger, 
but sweetly. An Arab would take you. Why do you not 
marry an Arab ? " 

I replied (very much amused), " My mother is not here 
to find a husband for me. How can I marry ? " I thought 
this would settle the question at once in their estimation ; 
but Sit S&ra said, " I will be your mother, and bring you 
to a husband. My brother is a Cadi, a great Judge of 
Nablfts ; he looks for a wife, he has only threa He will 
love you because you are white." 

I answered laughingly, "Thank you, oh my mother! 
what preparations must I make, and when must I be 
ready ? " 

Sit Sara considered for a moment, and then said, " How 
many camels has your father got ? " 

I replied, " My father has no camels. In my country 
there are only three or four living camels kept as curiosities, 
in a house in a beautiful garden, with servants to watch 
over them and take care of them. We have a few stuffed 
camels also, in a large glass house." 

At this they aU laughed loudly, and cried, " Oh, most 
marvellous ! " 

Sfi,ra continued, " Are your father's olive-trees new and 
fruitful?" " My father has no olive-trees.'' At this they 
were still more surprised. Sfija said, "Your father has 
gold. He wiU give you of his gold, and precious stones, 
and a red box, full of clothes and towels, some silk cushions, 
a red wooden cradle, and much soap. My brother has great 
wealth, and he will give camels to your father for your 
portion, and gold coins." 

I found that they thought I was in earnest, they all 
clapped their hands, and one of the women sang a song of 
rejoicing, thus : — 

" Oh, Laidy Miriam, child of a far-off land. 
Dwell with us and we shaU have joy ! 
Ton shaU be cheriahed above aU the women 

Q 



226 DOKESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

In the house of my Brother ! 

You shall be his Queen snd his chief delight ! 

For your face is like the moon, 

And your words are precious as pearls ! 

Oh, Lady Miriam, child of a fiuvoff land, 

Dwell with us and we shall haye joy 1 ** 

Then all the women rose and stood in a circle, forming 
a chain by slipping their hands into each other's girdles. 
They first moved slowly and gently rpund, in a measured 
step and to a monotonous tune, which tiiey sang ; while 
the servants and children, seated on the floor, were beating 
time by clapping their hands. They sang thus : — 

^ Let us dance ; let us sing; 

He is looking from the lattice. 
He will throw to us showers of silver ; 
He will throw to us showers of gold ! 

Let us dance, let us sing ; 

Faster, faster ; louder, louder 1 
Let him hear our mingling voices ; 
Let him hear our twinkling footsteps. 

Let us dance, let us sing ; 

Faster, faster ; louder, louder ! 
He will throw to us showers of silver ; 
He will throw to us showers of gold ! ** 

They sang this over and over again, and the dance 
gradually quickened till it became very animated, but 
the dancers always kept in step. At last they sat down 
quite tired. While they rested I told them how I passed 
my time at H^ifa, and I tried to give them an idea of my 
home in London, and how it was quite possible to live 
there, without camels or olive-trees. They asked me if 
the people ever danced in England ; and they were very 
much shocked when they heard that men and women 
danced at the same time and together. 

At sunset little Selim told me my brother wished to 
speak to me. He led me to him. He was in the vaulted 
chamber, with several Eflfendis and Moslem gentlemen, 
who asked me if I did not feel afraid to travel in a country 
where the people were fighting and plundering each other. 
I said, " I am not afraid, your excellencies, for I have found 



DOMESTIC LIFB IN PALESTINE. 227 

that all in this land are kind to the stranger." Then they 
said, " May Allah make a straight path for you ! " 

Supper was brought into the divan for the gentlemen, so 
I returned to the hareem. It was cheerfully brightened 
by little red clay lamps, placed in niches in the walls, 
and a large lantern stood on a low stool in the middle of 
the room. The women were wondering how I could dare 
to go to the men's quarter of the house. I explained to 
them that it was the custom in England for men and 
women to meet together constantly, and that we walked, or 
rode, or drove abroad unveiled. They were exceedingly 
surprised. I added, " We are governed by a Sultana, 
named *Nassirah' (Victoria), a lady so much loved and 
respected by her subjects, that when she appears in the 
streets or public places, the people cry aloud for joy, and 
shout, ' God save the Sultana ! ' Then her face is bright 
with pleasure and she looks graciously around, bowing her 
head to rich and to poor alike. And on certain days the 
nobles, and the learned men and her officers, are allowed 
to kiss her hand." They cried, " Oh, most wonderful!" and 
S§,ra said, "Is your Sultana a girl?" I answered, "No, 
she is married ; but the Prince, her husband, takes no part 
in the government." A sudden light seemed to break in 
upon them, and I found that I had unwittingly given them 
the idea, that the women of England rule and take the 
lead in everything, and are superior to the men. I could 
not entirely remove this impression, for they said, " Your 
Sultana could not keep the sceptre in her hand, if she were 
not stronger and wiser than the men." One of the women 
said, "Can your brother, the Consul, write?" I tried to 
give them a more favourable opinion of my countrymen, 
but I do not think I succeeded very well, for they still 
seemed to fancy that women were their superiors. 

Supper was brought for me in the same order as 
dinner, except that we had, in addition, a large dish filled 
with little green sausages. They were made of minced 
meat and rice, rolled up in leaves, dressed in butter. They 
were very nice. Asm6, a beautifiil girl about eight years 

Q 2 



228 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

of age (the eldest daughter of Saleh Bek), and Selim, ate 
with me ; but the ladies stood in attendance. I described 
how !Ejiglish people sit on chairs, round a high table, and 
eat from separate plates, using knives and forks, and 
spoons, and how men and women eat together. They cried 
out, " Oh, wonderfiil !" for they had never heard of a woman 
eating in the presence of a man, not even with her husband 
or father. 

After supper, they talked about the war. They told me 
how much they feared for their two eldest sons, who, though 
only fifteen or sixteen, went constantly to engage in the 
skirmishes in the mountains. These boys had often been 
slightly wounded, and every day their mothers expected to 
hear of one of them being killed. 

Then they sang a song about the Governor, Mohammed 
Bek, who was absent from Arrabeh, and they sang thus ; — > 

** May our enemies perish before him, 
May the arm of our Prince be strongs 
May he be mighty in thn batUe-field, 
May his enemies perish before him. 
That our shepherds may pasture 

Their flocks in peace ! 
And our camels carry 
Their burdens in safety. 
May our enemies perish before our Prince, 

Our Prince and our Protector ! 
May he return to us with joy, 

With great joy, and as a conqueror \ 
And all the dwellers in the mountains 
Shall tremble before him."* 

Then the black slaves danced, each one standing alone, a 
little apart from the others. They moved their arms above 
their heads slowly and gracefully, bending the body for- 
ward gradually, then suddenly they raised their heads and 

* Arab songs are very difficult for foreigners to understand. I could 
make out little more than the subject and spirit of the aboye, while the 
women were singing them. Helweh at my request explained the words in 
simple language assisted by signs ; and a year afterwards, when she was 
my neighbour at Haifa, she helped me to understand them sufficiently to 
enable me thus to render them into English. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 229 

rose to their extreme height, with their hands high. Their 
limbs seemed very supple and pliant, and I think they 
enjoyed dancing very much ; but it was not a pretty or 
lively dance. They sang about a beautiful Bedawl girl 
vrith teeth like lightning. I sang English songs at their 
request, and showed them a few of the measures and 
figures of our Western dances. They were most pleased 
with the Spanish waltz, which I danced slowly with 
imaginary partners : they clapped their hands, beating time 
while I sang. 

After this I was very tired, and I asked Sit Sdra to 
let me sleep. She said, " Let us walk out on the terrace ; 
the rain is over, the stars are shining. Let us walk out, oh, 
my daughter ! and the room shall be made ready." So we 
stroUed on the terrace of the hareem, with Helweh. There 
were red watch-fires on the hills around ; and, by looking 
through the round holes in the parapets, we could see 
people in the streets below us, with servants carrying 
lanterns before them. And bright stars shone in the deep- 
purple night sky. 

I was led across the court into a square room, and in- 
troduced to the fourth and youngest wife of the Governor 
of Arrabeh. I had not even heard of her before. She was 
surrounded by her women and attendants, and was sitting 
on a mattress propped up by pUlows and cushions, and 
partly covered by a silk embroidered lehafif. Her head- 
dress was adorned with jewels, and roses, and everlasting 
flowers, and her violet velvet jacket was richly em- 
broidered. Her cheeks were highly rouged, and her eye- 
brows painted. Her eyelids were newly dressed with kohl, 
and her hands with henna. She lifted a little swaddled 
figure from under some heavy coverings, and handed it to 
me ; it was her first-bom son. He was seven days old, and 
his father had not yet seen him. The mother had hoped 
and prepared for the pleasure of placing her boy in his arms 
that night, but he had not returned to Arrabeh. (A week 
is usually allowed to elapse before a Moslem father sees 
his new-bom child or its mother, and the eighth day is 



230 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

generally kept as a day of rejoicing and congratulation 
Professional singing women are hired for the occasion.) 

Coflfee was made for me, and a narghile prepared ; but I 
did not linger long with the young Moslem mother and her 
infant son, for the room was so over-heated that I could 
scarcely breathe. A large open brazier, filled with glowing 
charcoal, stood near the door, and the air and everything 
in the place seemed to be impregnated with an oppressive 
odour of musk Even the coflfee and the fumes of the 
narghile were strongly flavoured with it. I was very glad 
to be in the fresh air again on the starlit terrace. 

When we went back into the large room, I found that 
it had been nicely swept. In one comer five mattresses 
were placed, one on the top of the other, with a red silk 
pillow, and a silk embroidered wadded quUt, lined with 
calico, arranged nicely as a bed for me. I rejoiced in- 
wardly, thinking I was to have the room to myself But 
veiy soon I was imdeceived, for seven other beds were 
spread on the floor, each formed of a single mattress only, 
with a quilted coverlid and pillow. (If a Moslem wishes 
to pay great honour to a guest, several mattresses are piled 
up for him or her to sleep upon, and these gradations of 
respect are curiously observed. Yive is rather a high figure, 
but I have known my brother to have seven spread for him.) 

I found that all the ladies, and children, and servants, 
and slaves, were to sleep in the same room with me ! Two 
narrow hammocks, each about a yard long, were taken 
from a recess, and, fastened to ropes, suspended from iron 
rings in the ceiling. The hammocks were oblong frames, 
made of the strong stems of palm fronds, with coarse 
canvas stretched over them. To these, two swaddled and 
screaming children were securely bound. Eopes, made of 
palm-fibre, were fastened to the comers, and united and 
plaited together, about one yard above, and then fixed to 
strong ropes hanging from the ceiling. The four comer 
ropes formed a tent-like framework to support a piece of 
muslin for a mosquito curtain. 
When I began to undress, the women watched me with 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINB. 231 

curiosity, and when I put on my night-gown they were 
exceedingly astonished, and exclaimed, "Where are you 
going? What are you going to do?" and, "Why is 
your dress white?" &c. They made no change in 
their dress for sleeping, and there they were, in their 
bright coloured clothes, ready for bed in a minute. But 
they stood round me till I said, " Good night ; " they all 
kissed me, wishing me good dreams. Then I knelt down, 
and presently, without speaking to them again, I got 
into bed, and turned my face towards the wall, thinking 
over the strange day I had spent. I tried to compose 
myself for sleep, though I heard the women whispering 
together. When my head had rested for about five 
minutes on the soft red silk pUlow, I felt a hand stroking 
my forehead, and heard a voice saying, very gently, " Ya 
Hablbil" ie. "Oh, beloved." But I would not answer 
directly, as I did not wish to be roused unnecessarily. 
I waited a little while, and my face was touched again. 
I felt a kiss on my forehead, and the voice said, " Miriam, 
speak to us ; speak, Miriam, darling ! " I could not resist 
any longer, so I turned round and saw Helweh, Saleh Bek's 
prettiest wife, leaning over me. I said, " What is it. Sweet- 
ness ? what can I do for you ? " She answered, " What did 
you do just now, when you knelt down and covered your 
face with your hands ? " I sat up, and said very solemnly, 
" I spoke to God, Helweh ! " " What did you say to 
Him?" said Helweh. I replied, "I wish to sleep: God 
never sleeps. I have asked Him to watch over me, and that 
I may fall asleep remembering that He never sleeps, and 
wake up remembering His presence. I am very weak. 
God is all-powerftd. I have asked Him to strengthen me 
with His strength." By this time all the ladies were 
sitting round me on my bed, and the slaves came and 
stood near. I told them I did not know their language 
well enough to explain to them all I thought and said. 
But as I had learnt the Lord's Prayer by heart in Arabic, 
I repeated it to them, sentence by sentence, slowly. When 
I began, thus, — " Our Father, who art in heaven," Helweh 



232 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

directly said, " You told me your father was in London." 
I replied, " I have two fathers, Helweh. One in London, 
who does not know that I am here, and cannot know till 
I write and tell him ; and a Heavenly Father, who is with 
me always, who is here now, and sees and hears ns. He 
is your Father also. He teaches us to know good from 
evil, if we listen to Him and obey Him." 

For a moment there was perfect silence. They all looked 
startled, and as if they felt that they were in the presence 
of some unseen power. Then Helweh said, " What more 
did you say ? " I continued the Lord's Prayer, and when 
I came to the words, "Give us day by day our daily 
bread," they- said, " Cannot you make your bread your- 
seK?" The passage, "Forgive us our trespasses, as we 
forgive those who trespass against us," is particularly 
forcible in the Arabic language, and one of the elder 
women, who was rather severe and relentless-looking, 
on hearing it, said, "Are you obliged to say that every 
day?" as if she thought sometimes it would be diffi- 
cult to do so. They said, "Are you a Moslem?" I 
answered, " I am not called a Moslem. But I am your 
sister, made by the same God, who is the One only God, 
the God of all, my Father and your Father." They asked 
me if I knew the Koran, and were surprised to hear that 
I had read it. They handed a rosary to me, saying, " Do 
you know that ? " I repeated a few of the most striking 
and comprehensive attributes very carefully and slowly. 
Then they cried out, " Mashallah " — " The English girl is 
a true believer ;" and the impressionable, sensitive-looking 
Abyssinian slave-girls said, with one accord, " She is indeed 
an angel." 

Moslems, both men and women, have the name of 
" Allah " constantly on their lips ; but they do not appear 
to realise the presence and power of God, or to be conscious 
of spiritual communion with Him. Their common greet- 
ings and salutations are touching and beautiful words of 
prayer and thanksgiving, varied with poetic feeling and 
Oriental sentiment, to suit any occasions. But their greet- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE!. 233 

ings, after all, seem to me only to express politeness, 
respect, kindness, good-will, or affection, as the case may 
be. Even as the old English " Ood he with youf' has lost 
its full significance— and more, it has even lost its sound, 
clipped as it is into a common-place '*Oood-bye" The 
Moslem ejaculations before and after eating, and during 
the performance of ablutions, though beautiful and appro- 
priate, are now merely like exclamations of self-congratu- 
lation, without reference to any superior or unseen power. 
And the regular daily prayers so scrupulously said by 
men, though generally neglected by women, are reduced to 
ceremonial forms ; while the words uttered are, in many 
instances, sublime and magnificent. 

If this my notion be correct, it will explain why these 
women were so startled, when, in answer to Helweh*s 
question, I said simply and earnestly, *' I spoke to Ood:'' 
for that took them by surprise, and gave them the idea that 
I believed my words were really heard. Whereas, if I had 
answered in common-place language, such as, " I was saying 
my prayers," or *' I was at my devotions," probably they 
would not have been impressed in the same way ; though 
they might have wondered that a Franji should pray at all 
to their God. One of the women remarked, that no people, 
except Moslems, ever prayed to the one true God. 

After talking with them for some time, and answering, 
as clearly as I could, their earnest, shrewd, and. child-like 
questions, I said " Good ni^ht " once more. So they kissed 
me, and smoothed my pillow. But though I was fatigued 
bodily, my mind was so thoroughly roused and interested, 
that I could not immediately sleep. I watched the women 
resting under bright-coloured quilts, with their heads on 
low, sUken pillows. The lantern on the stool in the middle 
of the room lighted up the coins and jewels on their head- 
dresses. Now and then, one of the infants cried, and its 
mother or a slave rose to quiet it ; and it was fed with- 
out being taken from its hammock. The mother stood 
upright whUe the slave inclined the hammock towards her 
for a few minutes ; and then there was silence again. The 



234 DOMESTIC UPE IN PALESTINE. 

room was very close and warm, and the faces of some of 
the sleepers were flushed. At last I slept also. 

When I awoke in the momii^, I found that all the beds 
had been cleared away. Helweh and Sit Sdra stood by 
mine, as if they had been watching for me to wake. A 
number of boys almost blocked up the doorway, where the 
sunlight was streaming in. Servants and slaves were chat- 
tering, and piling up the mattresses in the recess. Little 
children were quarrelling ; and the boys alone were silent 
A black girl was sitting on the floor, pounding some 
freshly roasted coffee-berries in a marble mortar; and their 
fragrant aroma filled the room. I think the mortar was 
made out of an ancient capital ; it was beautifully carved, 
like Boman work. Another girl was making a kind of 
porridge of bread, milk, sugar, and oil, for the children. 

When Helweh saw that I was awake, she called out to 
the boys to clear the doorway; and a group of women, 
shrouded in white sheets, (who had been waiting in the 
court outside,) entered. They were neighbours, who had 
been paying visits of congratulation to the young mother 
whom I had seen on the previous night; and they had 
been invited to come in "to hear the English girl speak 
to Godr 

My garments were examined with curiosity, and I had 
very much more assistance than I required in making my 
toilette. When I was dressed, Helweh said, " Now, Miriam, 
darling, wiU you speak to God, that the women, our neigh- 
bours, may hear ? " 

So I knelt down, saying, " Grod, the one true Gk)d, is the 
Creator and Father of all ; and those who seek Him truly 
shaU surely find Him." Then, in a few simple words, I 
prayed that He would keep us in continual remembrance 
of Him. That we might feel His presence ; and that He 
would write His law in our hearts, and lead us to seek 
earnestly to understand and to obey His will concerning 
us. That we might be inspired to love Him more and 
more, with a trustful and reverential love, and live in 
harmony with aU people. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 235 

After a pause, I said, "Will you say Amen to that 
prayer ? " They hesitated, till Helweh exclaimed, " Amln, 
Amin ! " and then the others echoed it. 

S&ra said, " Speak yet again, my daughter ; speak about 
the bread.''' So I repeated the Lord's Prayer, explaining it 
(as I understand it), sentence by sentence, at their request 
They asked me some very curious and suggestive ques- 
tions, and they prayed that I would stay with them always. 
But while I was taking coffee, and hot bread and cream, 
one of the boys brought me a note from my brother, to tell 
me that he would be ready to start in half an hour, and 
that I was to go to him in the divan as soon as possible. 
So S^ brought me my cloak and habit, which had been 
nicely dried and smoothed. With regret, I took leave of my 
warm-hearted friends of the hareem. They said, " Go in 
peace," and " Eeturn to us again, oh, Miriam, beloved ! " 



CHAPTEE X. 



ALL the little boys went with me into the divan, where 
my brother sat, surrounded by eflfendis and young 
men of the Abdul Hady family. He had dismiss^ the 
guide who had conducted us to Arrabeh, and decided to 
travel without one. We were safer alone; for it might 
have compromised us to have in our party any one who 
had been engaged in the late skirmishes, or who belonged 
to a faction. 

It was pouring with rain when we started ; but the sun 
shone now and then, tracing vivid rainbows in the clouds. 
The undulating highlands which we traversed reminded 
me of the Sussex downs ; while beyond them bare rocks 
and rugged slopes appeared ; and, far away on the right, 
the Mediterranean could be seen, between greyish blue 
hills. Occasionally we passed quite an English-looking 
bank of grass and wild flowers ; and wherever the poterium 
spinosum grew, it sheltered the sweetwilliam, the Chinese 
pink, and the forget-me-not. We rode over a large, well- 
cultivated plain, and met two horsemen, .who courteously 
exchanged salutations with us, and then said, " What is 
the news ? "and " Whence do you come ?" &c. 

Bain fell heavily, as we rode on to a steep ridge, which 
commanded a view of the fortress of Seniir. It stands on 
the summit of a seemingly inaccessible hill, of conical 
form. The road down the southern side of the ridge was 
so very diflScult and dangerous for horses, that we, and 
even the Arabs, dismounted, and the animals were un- 
willingly dragged or urged along. We made ©ur way 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 237 

cautiously, stepping and sKding and leaping by turns over 
the loosened stones and smooth slabs of rock ; sometimes 
walking in the midst of a water-course, with the shallow 
but increasing streahi rushing round our feet We paused 
for a minute or two in a narrow valley, and stood in the 
shelter of a low, deserted hut, made of tree-branches and 
stones. Then, with difficulty, we mounted the hill, and 
reached Sen<ir. The inhabitants wiU. not willingly make 
the approach to their town, more easy while the country is 
subject to civil war. 

We found the gates of the town closed; but, after a 
parley with the sentinels, we were admitted. It was just 
midday. I was tired, giddy, and wet. We were led into 
a large, vaulted, smoke-blackened hall, on the ground-floor 
of the castle. About fifty men rose, wrapped their heavy 
cloaks around them, and left the place as we entered ; and 
a carpet was spread for us in a deep, wide window-seat. 
I poured the water from the brim of my hat, and gladly 
threw ofiF my cloak, and took a cup of hot coffee. In 
the meantime, another resting-place was made ready for 
us. Abrahlm Jerrar and his brother, the chiefs of the 
town, conducted us across the castle-yard, up a steep, 
uncovered stone stairway, into an open court ; and as 
we crossed the threshold of a vaulted chamber, in thB 
highest part of the castle, they said, "Be welcome, and 
take your rest." Mats, and carpets, and cushions had been 
newly spread on the ground. The window of this room 
commanded a view of a small fertile plain, almost inclosed 
by hills, but which could be easily approached from the 
south-west by a narrow valley or pass. In time of war 
its dark vista is always carefully watched by the people of 
Seniir. 

A lunch, of bread, fried eggs, goat's milk cheese, and 
olives, was brought in, and placed on a round wooden tray 
raised a few inches from the gix)und. Serving men poured 
water over our hands. 

When lunch was cleared away, and coffee and pipes 
went round, an earnest conversation commenced between 



238 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

the Jerrars and my brother, while three or four men sat 
by silently smoking and listening. I rested apart from 
them on a cushioned carpet, watching the animated group. 
I had never in the East seen any men so tall, well-propor- 
tioned, and handsome as the two Jerrars. Their large, loose, 
white and brown cloaks hung in graceful folds, and their 
red and yellow silk shawl head-dresses shaded bright clear 
countenances, with classically regular, yet veiy expressive 
features. My brother said to me, in English, " If you have 
an opportunity, by all means take the likeness of our host, 
Abrahim. He is the most celebrated man in this dis- 
trict, both as regards courage, daring, and energy; and 
his fanuly for many generations have been renowned for 
strength, vigour, and manly beauty. But," he added, " do 
not let him or any of the others see you sketching him, for 
he is quite as superstitious as he is handsome." 

The men were all so earnestly engaged in smoking, 
talking, or Ustening, that, by writing and drawing by 
turns, I succeeded in securing the portrait without exciting 
observation. 

Abrahim Jerrar took me to his hareem. It was in the 
most central and secure part of the castle, and consisted of 
three rooms, opening into a square court. He introduced 
me to his three wives, and gave them directions to welcome 
me as a sister, and then left me with them, while he con- 
ducted my brother over the town. 

The women greeted me and stared at me with uncon- 
cealed wonder. They were more simple, frank and innocent- 
looking than any Arab women I had seen. They were 
young and rather fair, stout and ruddy, and cheerful and" 
bright as happy children. They belonged to the peasant 
class. Their long, open dresses, or pelisses, were of soft 
crimson and white striped silk. Large silver coins encircled 
their faces, and a row of small gold coins crossed their 
foreheads, like a fiUet, to bind down their thick black hair, 
which was cut short in front and combed straight down, 
meeting their arched eyebrows, quite hiding their foreheads. 
Their eyes were large and clear, their eyelids were edged 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 239 

with kohl, and their chins and chests were dotted with 
tattooed stars. They and their children, and their white- 
washed matted room, looked fresh and clean and pleasant. 

I found that the handsomest, healthiest and strongest 
girls are always sought for as brides for the Jerrars ; that 
the health, strength and beauty of which they are so proud, 
may be perpetuated in the family. I never heard of a 
Jerrar who could read or write, or even sign his name. On 
the other hand, many of the men of the Abdul Hady family 
are well educated, and set a high value on book learning : 
and the ladies of Arrabeh are somewhat polished, and look 
very different to the simple rustic women of Senflr. I 
made a sketch of the head of one of the wives while I tried 
to lead them into conversation, but I could not "bring 
them out." When I spoke they only looked wonderingly 
at me, laughed shyly at each other, or uttered some set 
phrase embodying a compliment or a prayer. 

While I was resting and smoking a narghile which they 
had prepared for me, I was suddenly called to rejoin my 
brother. I found that the young man who was set to 
watch the south-western approach to Senfir, had just given 
notice, that he could see a body of Turkish cavalry issuing 
fix)m the narrow vaUey, into the plain below. Abrahim 
Jerrar told us that he knew they were sent by Kamiel 
Pasha to search the town ; to see if there were any Bedouins 
concealed there, ready to assist the people of Senftr in case 
of a siege. He added decidedly, " I have given my word of 
honour that there are no Bedouins within these waDs. We 
are aU peasants. No one shall live to pass through these 
gates who attempts to enter with an armed force to examine 
the townr 

My brother reasoned with him. Abrahim declared he 
would receive the commander of the approaching party 
peacefully, and with honour and courtesy, ifke came alone; 
but if he approached with his soldiers the gates would he 
closed against him. The hurrying to and fro in the narrow 
streets showed that preparations for resistance were being 
mada My brother said to me, " I am perfectly satisfied 



240 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINI!. 

that there are no Bedouins in the town. Have you courage 
to go down with me alone into the plain, that I may speak 
to the cavalry officer, and prevent if possible a useless and 
xmequal conflict ? " I did nt)t hesitate an instant. So we 
moimted, and, as quickly as we could, we rode down the 
hill, quite unattended, while the people on the embattled 
walls and housetops and at the guarded gate watched and 
directed us, wishing us " God speed." We were soon nearly 
half way across the plaLo, and there encountered the ad- 
vancing soldiers. When we were within speaking distance, 
we stopped suddenly, facing them. They were on the point 
of dividiing to pass on each side of us, but my brother held 
up his hand energetically and said, speaking as one having 
authority, " Halt I " and immediately they stood still. Then 
he called to the colonel, saying he desired to speak with 
him, and, keeping up his attitude of assumed authority, 
said, " Oh, Colonel ! you are going to Sendr in the name of 
his excellency Kamiel Pasha ; the answer to the message 
of which you are the bearer will be " No.'' Go yourself 
quietly and peaceably and obtain that answer from the 
town. But if you allow your men to advance one step 
nearer to it, you will be answerable for the consequences." 

The colonel unhesitatingly prepared to obey, leaving his 
little detachment in the plain with orders to await his 
return. We rode slowly backwards and forwards among 
the wondering Turkish soldiers, who galloped round and 
round us, performing feats of horsemanship for our amuse- 
ment. A black man, who seemed to be the eoloners 
especial attendant, played on a triangle, and made fantastic 
movements with his turbaned head. 

The detachment consisted of only seventy horsemen, 
and they would soon have been sacrificed if they had come 
into collision with the men of Senfir, and no object would 
have been gained. After a short delay, the colonel re- 
turned quite satisfied, and rejoined his men. At the same 
time our servants and attendants came down to us with 
the luggage, and we pursued our journey towards NabKis, 
which is about fifteen miles due south of Seniir. We were 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 241 

preceded by the soldiers. We rode for a little while in 
company with the colonel, who told us that Kamiel Pasha 
had determined to destroy Sen<ir, and had ofifered a reward 
of thirty thousand piastres for the head of Abrahim Jerrar. 
When we reached the entrance to the narrow valley, our 
mihtary escort took leave of us, and we soon lost sight of 
the soldiers. They galloped along one after the other 
recklessly, over rocks and brushwood, spurring their horses 
with the edges of their shovel-shaped stirrups. 

These incidents, from the moment when "the young 
man who kept the watch" first perceived the horsemen 
issuing from the narrow valley, till they took leave of us, 
did not occupy half an hour, though it seemed a much 
longer space of time. 

My brother explained to me that he had no real 
authority to interfere as he had done in this case. He acted 
not ofl&cially but individually, feeling that principles of 
humanity, and our somewhat critical position, justified 
him. It was singular that we had been the well-received 
guests of the heads of the two great rival factions of the 
district, within a few hours, and had thus gained much 
important information. Hills and valleys, rain and sun- 
shine, chequered our way till, at about sunset, we reached 
the olive-groves of Nablfts. Although I was wet, and 
cold, and tired, all my energy and delight returned when 
the beautiful valley between Mount Ebal and Mount 
Gerizim, and the weH-bmlt town of Nablfts were in sight, 
with glimpses of the distant sea, where the sun was going 
down. I was surprised to see a quantity of mistletoe 
on the olive-trees. The great gates, which were on the 
point of being closed, were thrown back for uis, and we 
rode through dark arcades and narrow streets to the house 
of Ody Azam, the British consul's agentt There we were 
comfortably entertained, for our host, who could speak a 
little Baglish, was accustomed to receive European tra- 
vellers. His house, indeed, was a kind of hotel, and his 
wife and niece quickly made ready their most cosy room for 
me. Our arrival was soon announced, and visitors thronged 

B 



242 DOMESTIC UFE IN PALESTINE. 

the large divan .all the evening, for my brother was well 
known in NabMla Priest Amran of tiie Samaritan com- 
munity came, speaking with earnest gratitude of the 
kindness of English'people and of the English Govermnent 
Kamiel Pasha (who had been my host at Hebron) sent an 
Effendi to convey his salutations to us, «nd a number of 
Turkish officials followed. I knew the Effendi very well. 
He was a Christian, and the first of his creed who had 
been raised to the rank of EfiPendi in the Jerosaleia 
Council I said to him : " TeU me, most honourable, is 
it true that his Excellency Kamiel Pasha has offered a 
reward of thirty thousand piastres for the head of Abra- 
htm, the chief of Sentlr ? " He answered : " Even so, most 
excellent lady !" I then said : "Will your honour salute 
the Pasha in my name, and inform him that I have the 
head of the chief, Abrahlm Jerrar, in my possession?" 
The guests who were present starec^ and even my brother 
was taken by surprise. The Effendi said : " Are you 
throwing dust in our eyes ? Is my lady laughing at the 
Pasha's beard V* I said again : " Let his excellency know 
that I have in my possession a head which he desires to 
obtain." I spoke in a seemingly serious tone, and would 
give no farther explanation. The people were evidently 
as much amused as they were puzzled. The next morning 
after a perfect rest I rose and was called into the Divan, 
where the Effendi awaited me. Kamiel Pasha had sent 
him to greet me, and had authorized him to receive from 
my hands the head of the rebel chief. I said : " Where is 
the purse of piastres, your honour?" He replied, 
" The piastres are not with me, my lady !" I answered: 
" Then I cannot give you the head." So he went away 
and presently returned with the Pasha's page, who carried 
a large round tray of hot can^fi, a sweetmeat made of 
vermicelli, baked with butter, sugar, almonds, walnuts, 
and spices. The Pasha had ordered it to be brought to me. 
A number of people whose curiosity had been excited 
came to see the issue, and to partake of their favourite 
dish« 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN FALBSTINB. 243 

The Effendi graciously placed the dish before me, and 
after a general washing of hands, aU. present partook of it. 
I was asked if I would inform them where the head was. 
I said : " It is in my portmanteau in the opposite room." 
Then the Effendi said: "Will you show it to us, 
gracious lady ? " A glance from my brother induced me to 
comply, so I fetched the drawing, and the men on seeing 
it» cried out immediately: "Abrahtm!" "It is Abrahim 
Jerrar!" "It is Abrahim of SentLr!" "Oh, work of 
God ! " The gravest and most stately-looking of our guests 
seemed thoroughly to enjoy the joke. They went away to 
explain the mystery to Kamid Pasha, who afterwards 
caUed to see me and the portrait, which he asked me to 
aUow him to keep. I said : " With pleasure, your excel- 
lency, if you will consent to regard it as the real head 
and ike only head of Abrahim Jerrar, and act accordingly.** 
His excellency laughingly declined to do this, so I have 
kept my sketch, which he, however, seemed rather unwill- 
ing to part with. He examined it carefully, and held it in 
his hand for a long time, but I would not alter my condi- 
tions. However, another drawing which he selected from 
my folio, I gave to him ; and he and his suite went away 
apparently very much amused. 

We found Nablds and its neighbourhood in a very un- 
settled state. It was exceedingly difficult to convey letters 
from this district. ' Postmen were constantly waylaid and 
robbed. My brother, who was directed to write every 
second day to H.B.M.'s Consul at Jerusalem, employed 
special messengers. They were several times attacked, and 
were severely beaten when they attempted to preserve the 
despatches and letters entrusted to their care. 

This is always the case in Syria during civil war. In- 
triguing officers, and the leaders of contending factions, do 
not like their proceedings to be reported to head-quarters, 
and they generally endeavour to mislead the European 
Consuls. My brother spent several hours every day at 
Kamiel Pasha's encampment, and accompanied his excel- 
lency when he visited the neighbouring villages. 

b2 



244 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

In the meantime I was rarely left alone. I was visited 
at all hours by Moslems, Christians, and Samaritans. The 
latter people interested me greatly. Priest Amran, a 
cheerful, shrewd-looking, well-informed man, between forty 
and fifty years of age, used to hear me read Arabic every 
morning. He gave me an interesting account of his little 
community, whose numbers amounted to only 196.* He 
said that there was great difficulty sometimes in arranging 
suitable marriages among them, for they never intermarry 
with strangers. The priest is always consulted on the 
subject, and as he, or his aged father Selslmeh, alone have 
power to celebrate a marriage, none can take place without 
their consent. He said : " At the present moment, the mar- 
riageable men are more numerous than the marriageable 
girls. Our girls are all young, and I am very much 
troubled about it." 

As an instance, he explained to me, that Jacob esh 
Shellabi, whose visit to England may be remembered by 
some of my readers, had been betrothed to Zora, while she 
was yet a child. Jacob was in England when Zora was 
marriageable ; Amran did not permit her to wait for him, 
but married her to Habib, a widower, who had one little 
girl, named Anithe. She was seven years old, and was 
to be given to Jacob in the place of Zora, who was now 
her step-mother 1 He said : " This marriage has caused me 
great anxiety and much trouble." 

Another man, who was only thirty, and for whom a girl 
could not be found, had married a widow fifty years of age, 
and he was now trjdng to persuade Priest Amran to allow 
him to put her away, that he might be betrothed to the 
priest's daughter, who was about eleven. He said : " Nearly 
all our girls are promised before they can speak, and are 
married when they are eleven or twelve." 

Priest Amran took me one day to the Samaritan quarter. 
It is an irregular cluster of two-storied houses, in the most 
crowded part of the town. We passed through white* 
washed passages, and ascended a crooked, uncovered, steep 

* According to Wilson's account, they numbered 150 in the year 1843. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 245 

stone stairway, leading into an open court; where a large, 
glossy-leaved lemon-tree grew close to an arched door, 
through which we passed, after "putting off" our shoes. I 
found that I was in the synagogue. It is a simple, un- 
adorned, vaulted building, in rather a dilapidated state. 
Amran introduced me to the chief priest, his aged father 
" Sel&meh," iie, who in 1808, corresponded with Baron de 
Sacy. He received me very courteously. After a short 
conversation about Jacob esh Shellabi, he said : " I am very 
old, but I shall die in peace, thanking God that He has 
let me live to see my people under the protection of the 
English Government." He said this in allusion to the fact 
that Lord Clarendon had sent instructions to the Consuls 
resident in Palestine, expressing the interest which her 
Britannic Majesty's Government takes in the Samaritans, 
and directing them to afford, in case of need, such pro- 
tection as may be proper towards Turkish subjects. His 
Excelleiicy Lord Stratford de Eedcliffe had also been 
instructed to use his good offices with the Porte in favour 
of the Samaritan community. A mat was spread on the 
stone floor, and there I rested, listening to the slowly and 
earnestly uttered words of the aged priest. He wore a 
loose blue eloth robe, lined with erimson, over a yellow and 
red striped satin kumbaz, which is made like a dressing- 
gown. His large turban and his long beard were white. 
He directed my attention to the veil of the temple. It was 
a square curtain of white damask linen, ornamented with 
appUqui work ; that is, pieces of red, purple, and green 
linen were sewn on to it, forming a beautiful pattern of 
conventional ornament. He supposed it was six or seven 
hundred years old, but I imagine it cannot be more than 
half that age. After I had copied the design of the veil care- 
fully, Priest Amran drew it aside and revealed a deep recess 
where the rolls of the law are kept Then his father rose, 
and, with trembling hands, brought out the celebrated copy 
of the Tora or Pentateuch, which is said to have been 
written by Abishua, the son of Phineas, the son of Eleazer, 
who was the son of Aaron. It is kept in a cylindrical 



246 BOICESTIO UFE IN PALESTINE. 

silver gilt case, which opens on two sets of hinges, and on 
its red satin cover Hebrew inscriptions are embroidered 
with gold thread. At my request Sel&meh sat down for a little 
while, holding it in his hands, that I jnighi sketch it and 
him. When he had carefully returned this precious roll 
to its place, he showed me several later copies of the Pen- 
tateuch, some in the Samaritan, others in the Arabic cha- 
racter—a printed collection of psalms or hymns — several 
commentaries on the law of difiTerent periods — a history of 
the community fix)m the Exodus to the time of Mohammed, 
and a very curious MS. called the Book of Joshua, which 
begins with an account of the joumeyings of the company 
of spies, who were sent into the promised land by Moses, 
and concludes with fabiQous stories of the life of Alexander. 
This seems to be rather a favourite book. It is written in 
Arabic, but the proper names and certain words are in 
the Samaritan characters. It is said to be of Syriac and 
not of Hebrew origin. I brought a copy of this remark- 
able work to England 

A number of the neighbours came into the synagogue 
to see me, and to invite me to their houses ; and fair little 
children crowded round. I took leave of the aged Priest 
Sel&meh, and he gave me his patriarchal blessing. Then 
I went with Priest Amran to call on Hablb and his 
wife Zora, who had been the betrothed of Jacob esh 
SheUabi. I was led into a large, low, but very airy room, 
with raised divans, nicely carpeted and cushioned on two 
sides of it. Mats and rugs on the stone floor made the 
place look comfortable, and a red brass-hinged box, a rudely 
carved red cradle, ornamental comer cupboards, and painted 
wooden shelves, with rows of green drinking-glasses ranged 
upon them, relieved the whitewashed walls. 

Habib, to whom I had been previously introduced, 
welcomed me with courteous gravity. His pretty little 
motherless daughter, Anithe, came forward promptly to 
greet me, but Zora, the young wife, seemed unwilling to 
appear. Priest Amran told me that she was purposely 
hiding. Habib went out into the court of the house, and 



DOBIBSTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 247 

when he re-entered, his wife followed him with seeming 
reluctance. She looked embarrassed and sad, and returned 
my salutations sullenly. She was rather handsome, and 
was decked as a bride. She wore fuU trousers and a tight 
jacket. Her chest was very much exposed, and painted or 
tattooed bright blue. Her gold necklace or collar was large 
and massive, and several coins were attached to it. Her 
head-dress was adorned with red and yellow everlasting 
flowers, and folds of blue crape. Her hands and feet, 
which were naked, were so delicately and artistically 
stained with henna, that she looked as if she had fine lace 
mittens and sandals on. She made me some lemonade, 
while Anithe brought ine a narghild Many women came 
in; among them was Jacob esh Shellabi's mother. She 
said impetuously: "How long shall I wait for my son 
Jacob, and not see him ? Why does he stay so long away 
from his country and his people ? Why did you leave him 
in England, lady? I shall die and never see him 
again." I answered : " Be comforted, your son will return 
to you and give you joy." Zora seemed troubled at the 
mention of his name, and left the room, but Habib smiled 
a smile of self-congratulation, and asked if I thought 
Jacob would return in time to claim his little daughter. 
The child evidently quite understood how afifairs had been 
arranged, but did not display the slightest interest or 
emotion. WhUe the other girls and women who were 
present asked with curiosity and volubility all sorbs of 
questions about Jacob, and were highly amused with the 
account I gave them of his reception in England, little 
Anithe maintained a quiet and dignified reserve, which I 
suppose, according to Samaritan etiquette, was very praise- 
worthy and becoming. 

Zora did not re-enter the room, but when I passed 
through the court, on my way to the house of a neighbour, 
I saw her, with her mother, engaged in cooking. She 
had been crying, and on seeing me, she hastily ran 
into a storeroom and disappeared. Amran said: "She 
is not quite reconciled yet to the new arrangement, but 



248 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

her husband is good and well-off, and she wiU soon be 
happy:" 

I visited three other houses, aU of the same character 
as Habtb's, but his was the most comfortably furnished. 
On the whole, I was very favourably impressed with the 
appearance of ^e Samaritan community. The men were 
generally handsome, tall, healthy-looking, and intelligent, 
but very few of them could read or write. The women are 
modest, and the children very pretty and thoughtftd, yet full 
of life and activity. I am told that the Samaritans live to 
a great age, and generally escape the epidemics which break 
out occasionally in NabKis. Perhaps this is owing to the 
simplicity of their lives, and their scrupulous cleanliness. 
They observe the ceremonial laws of Moses with fidelity. 
Three times a year they go in solemn procession to the 
sunmiit of Gerizim, repeatmg portions of the law as they 
ascend, and they still proudly proclaim to pUgrims and 
traveUers : " our fathers worshipped in this mountain." 
The mountain is now called " Jebel-el-Tor." 

They do not receive any part of the Bible, except the 
Pentateuch. They say the other books are forgeries, and 
regard the seventeenth chapter of the Second Book of 
Kings as a cruel calumny, originating with their enemies 
the Jews. The Jews, on the other hand, declare that 
this portion of the Bible is rejected by the Samaritans, 
simply because it records their true history and testifies 
against them. 

The Samaritans declare themselves to be children of 
Manasseh and Ephraim, and their priest is said to be lineally 
descended from a branch of the tribe of Levi, by whom their 
services have been conducted throughout . all generations. 
Priest Amran explained this to me, and then said : ** Alas, 
I have no son ! I have no son to whom to teach the holy 
language, no son to assist me in the services, no son to 
inherit the priesthood. God forbid that I should be the 
last of my race, and leave my people without a priest." 

It was a. cause of bitter sorrow to the Samaritans when, 
some time ago, the last male representative of the Aaronic 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 249 

family died ; for he was the last of their hereditary high 
priests — ^the last to offer sacrifices for them. They are 
obliged now to limit their ministrations to such services as 
may legally be performed by Priest Amran and his father, 
who represent the tribe of Levi, of whom it is written, that 
the Lord spake unto Moses, saying: "Present them before 
Aaron the priest, that they may minister unto him. And 
they shall keep his charge, and the charge of the whole con- 
gregation before the tabernacle of the congregation, to do 
the service of the tabernacle. And they shall keep all the 
instruments of the tabernacle." (See Num. iii. 5, &c.) And 
again it is written, that God spake unto Moses, and said, 
"Thou shajt put upon Aaron the holy garments, and 
anoint him and sanctify him ; and thou shalt anoint his 
sons, and their anointing shall surely be an everlasting 
priesthood throughout all generations." And unto Aaron 
God said : " Ye shall keep the charge of the sanctuary, and 
the charge of the altar • and thy brethren the Levites (such 
as Amran and his father) shall keep the charge of all the 
tabernacle : only they shall not come nigh the vessels of 
the sanctuary and the altar, that neither they, nor ye also, 
die." (See Num. xviii) 

With these verses before me, and knowing the character 
of the Samaritans, their belief in the true descent of their 
priests, their implicit faith in the Divine inspiration of the 
Tora, and their consequent reliance on the efficacy of cere- 
monial services, I can well imagine their desolation when 
they buried the last of the anointed sons of Aaron, and 
were left without ar high priest to minister for them. 
With the house of Aaron the celebration of the highest 
offices of their religion ceased. No sacrifices can be offered 
now, and there is no one " to make atonement for the 
people." 

During the days of unleavened bread the Samaritans 
live in tents, on the mountain near to the ruins of their 
ancient temple. "On the fifteenth day of the first 
month," the whole congregation, men, women, and children, 
except such as are ceremonially unclean, being assembled, 



250 DOMESTIC UFS IN PALESTOnS. 

the priest stands forth on a mound, and reads, in a most 
solemn and impressive voice, the animated description of 
the Exodus. 

In a trench, ten feet long by two feet wide, previously 
prepared by labourers, a fire is kindled, and two cauldrons 
of water are placed over it. A round pit is dug, in the 
form of a well ; and it is heated to serve as an oven. Then 
lambs are brought in sufficiency for the whole community. 
Seven is now the usual number. At sunset, seven men, in 
white dresses, take each a lamb before him, and at the utter- 
ance of a particular word in the service appointed for the 
day, all seven lambs are slain at the same instant. Every 
member of the congregation then dips his hand in the blood 
of the dying victim, and besmears his forehead with it 

Boiling water from the cauldrons is poured over the 
fleece, which causes the wool to leave tiie skin without 
much difficulty. It is plucked off with great nicety. The 
bodies of the lambs are examined, lest there be any blemislL 
The right shoulder and the hamstrings are cut off and 
thrown on the heap of offal, to be burnt with the wooL 

The seven bodies are then spitted, and forced into the 
hot bake oven. A trellis work is then placed over the top 
of the oven, which is covered with grass -and mud, to keep 
in all the heat A few hours after sunset they are with- 
drawn, and the Samaritans, each '' with his loins girt and 
a staff in his hand," eat hastily and greedily of the food 
thus prepared. The scraps of meat, wool, and bone are 
earefcQly sought for, and burnt on the heap, that not a 
morsel may remain. My brother has twice been present 
at the celebration of the Feast of the Passover, and from 
biTn I obtained the above description. 

The Feast of Tabernacles is also kept "in this moun- 
tain." It happens in the early part of the autumn, when 
tent-life is very pleasant and refreshing. The people " take 
the branches of goodly trees," such as the evergreen oak, 
and the arbutus, and they ''make booths,'' roofing them 
with interlacing willows, pliant palm fronds, and boughs 
of the glossy-leaved citron and lemon trees, with the green 



DOUESTIO UFE ht falestinb. 251 

fruit hanging from them in clusters. For seven days the 
people dwell there, rejoicing and giving thanks to God. 

Sometimes the Samaritans, to their great distress, have 
been obliged to celebrate their festivals elsewhere, and in 
secret, owing to the fanaticism and persecuting spirit of 
the Moslems of NabHis. But Priest Amran said : " Now 
that the En^ish word has been spoken for us, we shall 
no longer fear; and, notwithstanding the civil war, the 
Paschal lamb will this year be slain on the mountain 
where our fathers worshipped. The time is near at hand, 
lady ! tarry with us until the Passover, and we will 
make a pleasant tent for you on the mountain, that you, 
with the Consul, may witness the celebration of the festival 
and eat of our unleavened bread." 

Most of the Samaritan women came to see me in my 
private room at the hotel. Jacob esh Shellabi's sister, a 
fine girl (very like her brother), came several times, and 
Zora grew somewhat sociable. I could plainly see, by her 
manners and by her few words, that she was angry with 
herself and with her absent betrothed, and stUl more angry 
that she had not been permitted to await his return. She 
even seemed embittered against the English people, as if 
they had lured Jacob away from her, and I did not wonder 
that this marriage had given Priest Amran " much trouble." 
The women do not hide their faces from men of their own 
coDMnunity, but they veil themselves closely in the streets 
and in the presence of strangers. 

They were generally very simply dressed, in trousers and 
jackets of Manchester prints and coloured muslin head- 
kerchiefs and veils. When out of doors, they shrouded 
themselves in large white cotton sheets, and, though the 
fonaer were faded and the latter patched, their poorest 
garments looked clean. I saw very little jewellery, except 
(to the head-dresses of the most recently married women. 
They nearly all, however^ wore glass bracelets ; and some 
of the children had anklets, made of tinkling silver bells. 
The girls had a few small coins sewn to the edges of their 
red tarbouches, just in front. ♦ 



252 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

The Samaritans seem really to represent one family. 
The people look to the hereditary priest as their father and 
divinely appointed guide, and he apparently knows the 
history and character of every member of the community. 
He is king, magistrate, physician, teacher, counsellor, and 
friend of all. It struck me very forcibly that the Samaritans 
are not animated with any religious emotion or feeling, 
though they certainly venerate their theological system 
and aU that is connected with it, especially the site of 
the ancient temple on the mountain where their fathers 
worshipped. They attach great importance to ceremonial 
and especiaUy to sanitary laws relating to marriage, to 
food, and to ablutions. They observe the Sabbath-day 
strictly, in a material sense, but without the slightest sign 
of spiritual devotion. Their services are noisy and seemingly 
irreverent. They do not avoid friendly or commercial inter- 
course with strangers, though they will not intermarry 
with them. The few native Protestants in Nablfis are on 
a very intimate footing with the Samaritans ; and native 
Greek Christians, and many Moslems, are on good terms 
with them. But their Jewish neighbours do not like them 
at all. They accuse them of heresy and even of idolatry, 
and avoid them as much as possible, saying that they are 
worshippers of pigeons ! This is a very anciently founded 
calumny. The Samaritans, on the other hand, declare that 
the Jews neglect the Law of Moses, and have departed 
from purity of life and worship, and follow the Talmud. 
They date their separation from the Jews from the time of 
Eli the priest, who was not a descendant of the priestly 
family, and they regard him as a usurper. 

In 1842 the Samaritans were cruelly persecuted because 
they would not embrace the Moslem faith, and the Moham- 
medan Ulemas threatened to murder the whole of their 
community, on the plea that they had no religion, not 
even believing in one of the five inspired books, which 
are: 1, Law of Moses; 2, New Testament; 3, The Psalms; 
4, The Prophets ; and 5, The Koran. A sect which acknow- 
ledgei the inspiration of any one of these five books is 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 253 

legally tolerated by the Mohammedans. This being known 
to the Samaritans, they endeavoured to prove their 
belief in the Pentateuch ; but the Mohammedans, not 
being acquainted with the holy language and characters 
in which it was written, disbelieved them. They then 
applied to the Chief Eabbi of the Jews in Jerusalem (a 
recognised representative and head of the Jewish faith), 
who gave them a written declaration, certifying : " that the 
Samaritan people is a branch of the children of Israel, who 
acknowledge the truth of the Tora," i.e, the Pentateuch. 
This document, accompanied with presents, put an end to 
the persecution for a time. I mention this merely to show 
in what light the Samaritans are regarded by the superior 
and learned Jews. 

Those who knew Jacob esh Shellabi in England, will 
perhaps like to hear something about him. He is the only 
Samaritan who ever travelled so far west. He returned to 
hid people in the autumn of 1856, and soon reaccustomed 
himseK to the simple yet active life of the Samaritans. He 
advised Priest Amran to establish a school, and oblige all 
the children of the community, both girls and boys, to 
attend it regularly, that all of the rising generation might 
be taught to read and write Arabic, and to cast accounts. 
Jacob much regretted that he was unable to do either, 
and was too old to learn. I am told that this school has 
been established, and is called the SheUabi School, in 
memory of Jacob's visit to England, where he had learned 
to set a very high value on book-learning. 

He did not, after all, marry little Anithe. She was not 
old enough to be his bride immediately on his return, and 
another arrangement was consequently made, as the follow- 
ing curious specimen of Oriental correspondence will show. 
It was a reply to an inquiry concerning Jacob. 

True and literal translation of a letter from Priest Amran 
to E. T. Eogers, Esq., H.B.M. Vice-Consul, Haifa. 

" To the perfection of energy, the most virtuous, and un- 
subomable, the presence of the moat praiseworthy brother 



254 DOHESTIO LIFE IN FALESTINB. 

Cawadja Rogers, the illustrious. May God Almighty 
lengthen his days. Amen. 

" After heartfelt prayers for your preservation, I beg to 
inform you that I was honoured by your bountiful letter, 
dated the 17th of June, of Western calculation, collectively 
with Daood Tannoos,* and we read with pleasure of your 
preservation, and we thanked the Almighty, who hath 
vouchsafed that you should think of us. Your sweet slip 
(a postscript) which was inclosed in said letter, I have 
read. I find that you ask me whether Jacob esh SheUabi 
is married or not My Lord, he has been married ever 
since last year to a very pretty partner, who is exceedingly 
good ; her name is Shemseh [Sunny] ; and last Thursday, 
the first day of Western July, she gave birth to a male 
child, who resembles the moon, and they have called his 
name Emln [Faithful]. Please God that this may happen 
in like manner to you. I have given you this glad tidings, 
which is all that is necessary in petitioning you to honour 
me by letting me know all that I can do to serve you, and 
God lengthen your days. My Lord, your petitioner (signed 
and sealed), Amran, the Priest. Written in Nablds, 9th 
July, Western year, 1858." 

Another child has been bom to Jacob, and I have heard 
him speak proudly, lovingly, and tenderly of Kis little 
ones, and of his young wife, Shemseh, and of the flourish- 
ing Samaritan day-schooL 

A few days after my arrival in NablAs, I was sitting in 
the divan at the hotel, with a little company of Samaritans, 
Greek priests, and Protestant Arabs, when a very poor 
Moslem woman forced her way into the room, notwith- 
standing that the kawass and servants at the door endea- 
voured to prevent her entrance. She cried out: "Make, 
way! I must speak to the English lady, the Consul's 
sister." I said : " Let her speak." She was almost shrouded 
in an old blue-and-white check linen sheet, of native 

* The principal member of the native Protestant congregation in 
Kabl^ 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESITIKB. 255 

manufacture. She was very aged, and tottered across the 
room to me, and then partly drew aside her thick cotton 
veil, and kissed my head and my hands violently and 
impetuously, beseeching me to intercede for her son, who 
had been imprisoned for insulting and striking our kawass 
in the bazaar. 

She said : " I am a widow, and the offender is my only 
son, my sole support. Speak for him, for my sake. Speak 
for him, for the sake of the mother of your brother. Speak 
for him, that he may be set free ! ** 

She knelt down, and tried to kiss my feet, and embraced 
my knees imploringly. I raised her up, saying : " Go now 
in peace. I will speak to the Consul about your son." 

She went away rejoicing, and cried aloud : " The gates of 
the prison are thrown open ! The offender, my son, is 
already free ; for the English word is spoken ! " 

I made inquiries about the prisoner, and, for my " word's 
sake," my brother applied for his release, and before sunset 
he was free. 

He came in the evening, with his mother, to thank me ; 
for he had heard that I had spoken a good word for him. 
He had been flogged, but looked very submissive, and well 
pleased at his unexpected and sudden release. When the 
doors of a Turkish prison are closed, they are not readily 
opened, except with a golden key; and this man knew that 
his friends w^re too poor to offer an efficient bribe. 

He said to me : " O my protectress, in memory of your 
intercession, I will seek occasion at all times to render 
service to you, and, for your sake, to all English peopla" 
I replied : "Take care of your mother, and try to live peace- 
ably with all men." 

They went away, murmuring blessings. When, a few 
weeks afterwards, the Protestants of Nablfts were cruelly 
attacked by the Moslems, this man proved himself a 
staunch friend to them. For Protestants are regarded as 
^ngUsh^jprotigSs, even as the Latins are looked upon as 
French, and the Greeks as Russian subjects. 

I had some very interesting conversations with the Arab 



256 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

schoolmaster of the little community of Protestants at 
NablAs. He is a native of Nazareth, about thirty years of 
age, the uncle of our coffee-boy and pipe-bearer, Yusef, 
described in a former chapter. He was educated at the 
Diocesan School, Jerusalem, and there learnt to speak Eng- 
lish pretty freely. His foreign accent, peculiar idioms, and 
orientally constructed phrases, amused me exceedingly. 
He seemed delighted to have an opi)ortunity of talking 
English. He was very anxious to be made acquainted with 
the rules of domestic life in England, and especially the 
customs and laws relating to betrothals, weddings, divorces, 
and the settlement of property, &c. I satisfied him on these 
points, as well as I could, and he, in return, gave me an 
account of his marriage. I will repeat it, as nearly as pos- 
sible, in his own words, which I noted down on Sunday, 
March 2, the day he related it to me. 

" I shall make you see how, in this country, marriages 
are made. Perhaps your English customs are not quite 
good in this matter, and our customs also are not good. It 
is better that we take from you a little, and that you also 
take some teachings from us. I went, four years ago, to 
Nazareth, my town, for my espousals. AU knew that I 
went to look for a girL I had no father; I had no mother. 
I went to the house of my aunt, the sister of my father, 
and said : ' my aunt, seek for me a girl, that I may be 
espoused quickly.' And she said, ' Be at re^t, my son ! 
I know a good girl for you ; I shall speak for her.' Then 
my heart was heavy, because I must not seek and see her 
for myself ; and I said, * my aunt, how can I do this 
thing, and not see her ? Perhaps her eyes are bad ; per- 
haps she has maimers not good. I must see her. Hide me, 
that I may see her.' My aunt was much afraid ; but she 
loved me, and she said : ' Make your heart strong ; / vdll 
cheat her for you! So she went out, and sought for the 
girl she wished to take for my wife. She was the child of 
our neighbour; and when she found her, she said: 'My 
daughter, I seek you ; come with me to my house. Let us 
work together. I have a thing to show you.' Then I stood 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 257 

where she must come, that way. Her face had no veil 
She did not know that I was hid. She was a little 
while working aiid talking with my aunt. I saw that she 
was beautiful and fair, she was eleven of age. She spoke 
weU and softly, and her words were good words — and my 
heart went out of myself to her. In a little while, she 
came by where I stood, and she saw that I was looking on 
her with power. Then her face came very red, and she ran 
home very fast to her mother, and my aunt also went to 
her. And the girl cried, and said : ' mother ! they cheat 
me— they cheat me ! ' Her mother gave her comfort, and 
said : ' Be at rest, my daughter — now that he has seen 
you, he will wish you for his wife — he will take you.' But 
the girl was full of anger, and said again : * It is not good 
that they cheat me.' 

" My aunt came to me, and told me of her anger and 
her grief, and said : * It is better not to speak any more of 
this, and we will find another girl.' But my heart had 
gone forth to this one, and I could not think for another. 
So I went to the Greek priest, and told him the whole 
matter. And then the priest went to the father of the 
girl, but the father said : * Not so — I have two larger girls 
—they must not be left — they must make their espousals 
before this little one.' Then I said to the priest : ' Speak 
for me again, that I may have that little one.' So the 
father made a writing, and I put my seal on it, and agreed 
to give him much silks, and cottons, and soap for this 
(laughter — more of all these things than he would make 
me give for the larger daughters, for he knew my heart 
was gone out from me. I saw her again, for not quite one 
minute, when the espousals were made and witnessed. 
Then my aunt made a room ready for me in her house, and 
many men came to eat with me there a good feast. And 
many women went to eat with the girl, in the house of her 
father, and danced before her, and sang songs of rejoicing. 
And all people knew that we were espoused, but I might 
not see her again. Then I went to Nabliis. And, after a 
year, four men, with horses, went £or me from this town to 

s 



258 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

Nasirali, and they brought her, and then immediately we 
were married." 

He introduced his young wife and her infant son to me. 
She was very bright and cheerful-looking, with a high 
colour, and dark, clear eyes. She said, that NSsirah was a 
much better town than Nablfts for Cliristians to dwell in. 

The Protestant congregation of Nablfts was founded by 
Dr. Bowen, the late Bishop of Sierra Leone. He established a 
loom there, and gave the people an opportunity of working. 
He paid them for their labour, taught them many useful 
arts, and afterwards, by degrees, gave them religious instruc-» 
tion. He was a great favourite with all classes, and many 
of the Greek Catholics declared themselves Protestants. 
Since Dr. Bowen's departure, the community has been 
very fluctuating, and sometimes quite dispersed. Wlien 
I attended their service in the school-room, there were 
about twenty men and thirty boys present A dozen 
women sat in an adjoining room, looking in and listening 
at an open arched window. They were all closely veiled. 
Tlie service was well conducted by Michael Kawarre, a 
native teacher. The gospel was read by a boy, only twelve 
years of age, in a clear though very monotonous voice. The 
responses were made most energetically. 

M. Zeller, a German, had recently been appointed by 
Bishop Gobat to take charge of the community, and he was 
eagerly studying Arabic, that he might commence his mis- 
sionary labours. He kindly left his lonely study, now and 
then, to explore Nabliis and its neighbourhood with ma 

One morning we walked through the stony, arched, 
narrow, tortuous streets, out at the nearest gate, and rose 
on to the raised road or terrace, which nearly encircles the 
town. He led me to the hill beyond the burial-ground, 
whence I could see the whole extent of Nabliis, with its 
mosques and minarets, its irregular groups of houses, with 
domes and terraced roofs, its dark archways and colonnades, 
and the gardens of lemons and oranges around. Then we 
climbed a steep and stony path, to see an ancient fountain 
and a reservoir formed of a sarcophagus, where closely- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 259 

veiled women were washing their tattered garments. A 
group of men were leisurely building up the broken stone 
wall of the watercourse. They were working with clumsy- 
looking tools, and each man had a gun slung over his 
shoulder. 

We followed the course of the duct, which conveys 
water from the fountain along the terraces round the town. 
The stones of the aqueduct were moss-grown, and between 
them, bright juicy leaves of the most vivid green had 
sprung up. At short intervals there were square apertures, 
through which we could see the running limpid water, in 
a framework of maiden-hair and other ferns, and white 
and lilac blossoms. We came to a large square ancient 
pool, or reservoir, well tilled, and in good repair, near to 
the governor's new residence, which is the handsomest 
dwelling-house I had seen in Palestine. It is built of 
well-hewn fine limestone, and enriched with marble pave- 
ments, columns, and arches. Mahmoud Bek Abdul Hady 
designed it himself. 

We re-entered the town, and paused before the portal of 
the mosque. It was originally the entrance to a Christian 
church, as the design plainly shows. The clustered columns, 
the richly foliated and varied capitals, the deep, dental^ and 
zigzag mouldings of the pointed arch, are of Siculo-Norman 
character. While we were carefully examining the details, 
signs were made to us — ^rather roughly — by some of the 
guardians of the mosque, that we were approaching too 
near to their place of worship, and lingering there too 
long, so we retired, and traversed the bazaars. The shops 
were well stocked, and busy with buyers and sellers. 
There were small arcades especially devoted to the sale of 
tobacco — others were filled with the refreshing odour of 
green lemons, oranges, citrons, and shaddocks. The bazaars 
for vegetables and prepared food were rather difficult to 
pass through. They were thronged with Turkish soldiers 
from the pasha's camp, who were seeking their midday 
rations. Some of them were carrying large metal dishes; 
containing a medley of chopped- vegetables, or deep 

2s 



260 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

earthenware plates, filled with pease-pudding, garnished 
with slices of lemon floating in oil Others hurried 
through the crowd with bowls of steaming soup before 
them, which very effectually cleared the way. There 
seemed to be no friendly feeling between the soldiers 
and the townspeople. Angry voices and loud cries sur- 
rounded us, and in several cases blows were exchanged 
before a bargain was settled. The long narrow bazaar 
where dried fruits, olives, rice, butter, and cheese are sold, 
led us to the entrance of an important mosque, the exterior 
of which is rich in relics of Christian art of the twelfth 
century. After pausing before it for a few minutes, we 
made our way down a street almost blocked up by camels, 
and thence passed into the principal bazaar, the finest 
arcade in Palestine. It is rather wider and much more lofty 
than the Lowther Arcade, and about five or six times as 
long. Here European goods are displayed, such as Man- 
chester prints, Sheffield cutlery, beads, and French bijouterie, 
very small mirrors, Bohemian glass bottles for narghiles, 
Swiss head-kerchiefs, in imitation of the Constantinople 
mundlls, crocJkery-ware, and china coffee-cups. . But the 
brightest shops are those in which Damascus and Aleppo 
silks, and embroidered jackets and tarbouches from Stam- 
boul, appear, with stores of Turkish pipes, amber rosaries, 
and bracelets from Hebron. On the low shop-counters the 
turbanned salesmen squat in the midst of the gay wares, 
and they smoke and gossip, stroke their beards, and finger 
their rosaries from early in the morning until sunset. 

An opening in the middle of this arcade led us into an 
extensive khan, well planned, but so out of repair as to be 
almost useless. It is an uncovered square space, inclosed 
by a two-storied range of buildings. The ground floor is 
well adapted for lodging camels and other beasts of burden, 
but the upper chambers are so dilapidated that they afford 
but little shelter. We mounted a broken stone stair- 
way, and with difficulty reached the terraced roof, which 
commands a good view of the town. 

When we re-entered the arcade, we heard ourselves un- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINK 261 

expectedly addressed by name, and turning round, we saw 
Ody Azam, my host, in his little shop, selling pens, pencils 
and paper, and Birmingham wares. He said that the Arabs 
wondered how it was that I could walk freely and unveiled 
in public places, adding : " Our women do not enter the 
bazaars, it would be a shame for them." 

The chief productions of Nablfts are cotton, olive-oil, 
and soap. The latter is made in large quantities, and sold 
throughout Palestine — ^it is greyish white, and makes a 
good lather. The oil of Nabl(is is famous for its clearness 
and purity. The neighbourhood is rich in vineyards and 
fig-gardens, and ali ** precious fruits brought forth by the 
sun." The people are much attached to their town, and 
are very proud of it. They seepi to think there is no place 
in the world to equal it. 

When I returned to the hotel, I found a turbanned 
stranger waiting to see the vice-consuL He introduced 
himself to me as Sheik Miissa. He wore a loose olive- 
iioloured cloth robe, bordered with sable fur, and a purple 
and drab striped satin under-dress, and purple cloth pe- 
lisse. He said he had heard I could make faces on 
paper, and that if I liked I might take his portrait, on 
the condition that I would tell the consul at Jerusalem 
that he had not interfered in the late intrigues. I an- 
swered : '* I should like to take your portrait, but how can 
I tell that which I do not know, and how can I know that 
you have taken no part in these troubles?" "Neverthe? 
less," he replied, "take my portrait, and show it to the 
consul, Mr. Finn, and I shall find favour with him." He 
sat for an hour, with his rosary and pipe in his hands, 
most patiently, and then went away. 

Shortly afterwards, Mahmoud Bek Abdul Hady, the 
governor, came in with my brother. The former, whom 
I had seen several times, asked me many questions about 
my visit to his relations at Arabeh. I showed him the 
sketches I had made there. He invited me to go to his 
new house, saying that his wives had expressed a wish to 
see me, but he added : " If you take their portraits, you 



262 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

must promise not to show them to any one in this country. 
You may show them in England to your friends and to 
the Queen, but it would be a shame for me that men in 
this land should see the faces of my women." I gave my 
promise, and he said : " It is well ; the English word is 
spoken. Come at sunset, and you shall find welcome." 
He said, " Do you like Arabeh or Senftr better?" I said: 
" I found greater pleasure at Arabeh, and I hope very 
much to see again the friends who received me there so 
kindly." He said : " God be praised that Arabeh has found 
favour with you." 

Then he went away, apd at sunset my brother accom- 
panied me to his house. Two kawasses and lantern- 
bearers led'the way. We were conducted into a vast open 
court, paved with marble, and the governor came out to 
meet us, and led me into the divan, or reception-hall, 
where a number of Moslem gentlemen were assembled. 
They rose from the raised divans, which were ranged on 
three sides of the room, and stood still until my brother 
and myself had taken the places prepared for us on the chief 
divan. The governor arranged an embroidered cushion for 
me, and sat by my side, and then said to the standing 
guests: "Itfuddhel — " a word of wide significance, cor- 
responding with the Italian " favorisca,'* and meaning, in 
this instance, " Be seated." The room was very lofty. The 
white walls were ornamented with blue arabesque borders, 
painted in fresco. The arched windows and large doorway 
were of Saracenic form. A part of the floor was raised a 
few inches, to form a dais, and was spread with handsome 
carpets, and in the centre stood a tall brass candelabrum 
supporting an oil lamp. In the lower part of the room 
a number of servants waited. They were the attendants 
and lantern-bearers of the several guests. Eichly-dressed 
Abyssinian slaves handed round cofifee, flavoured with 
ambergris, and others carried silver trays of sweetmeats. 
A costly narghile, the mouthpiece of which was set with 
diamonds and sapphires, was brought for me. 

I had expected to be conducted only to the hareem, and 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 263 

was rather taken by surprise on being ushered into the 
midst of this company. I did not venture, in the presence 
of men, to speak to Mahmoud Bek about his wives, for it 
is not considered delicate to do so, and my brother could 
on no account allude to the object of my visit I waited 
impatiently for a long time hoping that a messenger would 
come for me. In the meantime an interesting discussion 
on civilization and life in towns and villages and tents was 
carried on. Our host showed us a plan for the completion 
of his house, and asked my advice about the interior decora- 
tions and details. He had evidently a strong natural taste 
and talent for architectural construction, and was a good 
judge of building materials. He told me that he could 
judge whether stone was of a durable nature or not, by its 
taste. I have often seen an Arab touch newly quarried 
stone with the tip of his tongue, and I suppose he could 
by this means ascertain its quality. There are some fine 
quarries in Palestine, but the stone generally preferred by 
builders, is that which is brought from the ruins of some 
ancient building and which has already stood the test of cen- 
turies. More than an hour passed and still I had no sum- 
mons to the hareem. I said to Mahmoud softly : " 1 came 
to-night in consequence of your especial invitation ; "' he 
answered : " I am greatly honoured by your presence, my 
lady, you have given me great pleasure and I have profited 
by your words and your counsel — this room, which no 
woman has ever before entered, is yours." A special mes- 
senger from the Pasha came to seek my brother, and we took 
leave of Mahmoud Bek. He attended us to the outer door 
with much deference and a great many compliments, but 
he did not make the slightest efifort to detain me to visit 
his hareem. I suppose he was afraid I should " reveal the 
secrets of his prison house," or he may on consideration 
have thought it actually dangerous for any of his ladies to 
have their portraits taken. It was rumoured that he had 
recently married a very beautiful girl, and that in his 
establishment there were some fair young slaves from 
Constantinople. The fact was, I believe, I had answered 



264 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINK 

his many questions about my sojourn at Arabeh rather too 
unreservedly, and had unwisely shown him the portrait of 
his cousin Saleh's pretty wife Helweh. I was always on 
my guard afterwards under similar circumstances. This 
governor, Mahmoud Bek, was an elderly man with a long 
grey beard. He was full of energy and enterprise, and ap- 
peared clever, penetrating, and shrewd, but obstinate and 
tyrannical, and was the head of a very troublesome faction. 
The next morning Sheik Mftssa came that I might finish 
his portrait. He said: "They are idiots and *majn<ini' 
who believe that a man is in danger of losing his soul if 
a resemblance of him be made on paper with lines of a 
pencil point — but it is not safe to make him of wood or to 
carve him in stone." He added: " In this land there is much 
ignorance and folly, but we must hold our peace, for if we 
speak the thoughts of our hearts to fools they will say, * It 
is your folly and not ours — we are wise — ^ye are fools who 
doubt our wisdom.' Thus the wise hold their peace and 
the foolish ones of the earth are made proud and strong in 
their folly. Thus it is decreed." 

The afternoon was especially bright and balmy, and my 
brother spared time to ride out with me in company with 
M. ZeUer and a few Protestant Arabs. We passed out of 
the town at the east gate and went down the Nabliis valley 
in a south-easterly direction, with Mount Ebal on our left 
and Mount Gerizim, nearer to us, on our right, the former 
looked rather rugged and bare, but the latter was here 
and there clothed with trees and herbage. Pointing to 
a tree growing far above us, Ody Azam said: "That old 
•olive-tree is the largest in the whole country, its trunk is 
so thick, that if four taU men joined hands, they could not 
entirely embrace it." 

We crossed and recrossed winding streams and artificial 
watercourses, in the gardens and cultivated fields of the 
winding valley. After half an hour's ride we paused and 
alighted by an isolated and fallen granite column, half 
buried in the earth, at the foot of Mount Gerizim. Near to 
it was a pit, almost filled up with rubbish and earth and 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN 1»ALESTINE. 265 

encircled with large hewn stones — " Now Jacob's well was 
there." My brother drew my attention to it, saying : " It 
was to show you this choked-up fountain that I brought you 
here to-day, for Jews, Samaritans, Christians, and Moslems 
all agree in associating the name of the Patriarch Jacob 
with this spot. To Christians it is especially interest- 
ing as the scene of Christ's interview with the woman of 
Samaria, when *He being wearied with his journey /row 
Judea sat thus by the well at midday while his disciples 
went up the valley into the city to buy meat.' And we are 
now sitting under the shadow of Gerizim, of which the 
woman spoke when she said : ' Sir, our fathers worshipped 
in this mountain ; and ye say, that in Jerusalem is the 
place where men ought to worship.' And from this well- 
side Christ's memorable answer was given — * God is a spirit, 
and they that worship Him must worship Him in spirit and 
in truth.' " 

The outlines of the surrounding hills were sharply de- 
fined against a sky intensely blue, the large village called 
TuUuzah, supposed to be the ancient and " comely Tirzah," 
half-way up Mount Ebal, was pointed out to me. Its 
houses were scarcely distinguishable from the masses of 
rock and the great stone boulders on the rugged slopes. 
Terraced vineyards and fine olive-groves nearly encircle 
the village and mark its limits. 

Flourishing fruit gardens and groves skirt the base of 
the mountains, and groups of evergreen oaks stand here 
and there. The plain and the valley were vividly green 
with wheat and barley, beans and lentils. Bright wild 
flowers garnished the low stone walls or landmarks be- 
tween them. It was the 5th of March, and we could con- 
sequently say: " There are yet two months and then cometh 
the harvest." It must have been earlier in the spring 
when Christ beheld this landscape and said to his disciples : 
"Lift up your eyes and look upon the fields." He spoke 
figuratively — ^but these very fields suggested the figure. 

Though quite half an hour's walk from the town, this 
well must have been a favourite place of resort of the 



266 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

children of Israel, from the time when he gave it to them, 
having drank thereof himself, and his sons, and his cattle. 
When the woman of Samaria said to Christ : " Sir, the well is 
depp " — she spoke truly. It is a circular shaft cut out of the 
solid rock, and when it was measured a few years ago it 
was found to be seventy-five feet deep, and yet the true 
bottom of the well was not then reached on account of the 
accumulation of mud. Jacob-esh-Shellaby, when a boy, 
was let down into this well, and I have often heard him 
describe his descent. An account of it was publised in a 
little book called: "Notices of the Modem Samaritans, 
illustrated by incidents in the life of Jacob-esh-Shellaby, 
gathered from him and translated by Mr. E. T. Eogers " — 
my brother. I will give the extract which records the 
circumstance, for I do not suppose that any one living has 
ever been down that well except Jacob, He was exactly 
twelve years old at the time. 

" In the year 1841, a Scotch gentleman named Dr. Wilson 
arrived in Nablds and made great inquiries for Jacob's 
Well, and having found out the exact spot, he hired ten 
strong men and myself to accompany him thither ; and in 
passing through the bazaar he purchased four camel ropes. 
I could not understand all this preparation, but on arriving 
at the mouth of the well I soon discovered the reason. It 
appeared that one of the Scotch missionaries* had some 
years ago dropped his Bible into the well, which Dr. Wilson 
was now so anxious to extricate. The men were soon set 
to work to remove the huge stones from the mouth of the 
well, and I was chosen, as being of light weight, to be 
lowered down for the search. 

" I was much afraid at first ; however, I consented, upon 
some consolatory words, and pecuniary persuasion, and a 
promise to take me to England made by Dr. Wilson* The 
rope was therefore tied round my waist, and I swung 
round (having no means of steadying myself) until I was 
quite giddy and faint from the impurity of the air. The 
four camel ropes were joined together, and stiU I had not 

* The Bey. Andrew Bonar, of Callace. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 267 

reached the bottom; two shawls, which composed the 
turbans of two Samaritans who were with us, were then 
tied to the end of the rope, and by that means I alighted 
safely, but much frightened and overcome. The bottom of 
the well was muddy, but no water was there at this time, 
as the spring was dry. Dr. Wilson had given me two 
beautiful white candles and a small box of sticks. The 
sticks were for the purpose of making a light. This was 
the first introduction of lucifer matches into Nablfts. I 
had seen Dr. Wilson make use of one, up above in the 
open air, and was much surprised ; but now, down in this 
dark place, upon striking the end of one against the rough 
side of the box, I was amazed at the report and ignition, 
and made up my mind not to waste any, but to keep the 
box carefully in my pocket, and I thought that this box 
alone would fully compensate for my trouble in coming 
down. I had been told to remove all the stones from the 
east, and to place them westwards, and then to return them 
to their original position, and to place in the east those 
from the west; and in executing the latter command, I 
found a diiiiy little book, about six inches long by four 
inches broad, and three-quarters of an inch thick. Dr. 
Wilson shouted down from the mouth of the well several 
times, * Have you found it ? ' The same answer, * No/ 
was continued for some time ; but now I did not exactly 
know how to answer. ' This could not be the book,' I 
thought, * for the recovery of which he had expended so 
much labour and money; and yet it might be, if it were a 
book of necromancy for guiding him to hidden treasures.* 
When Dr. Wilson heard that I had found something, he 
caused me to be hauled up, and welcomed me and my 
treasure, which I felt almost ashamed to give him ; yet he 
was much delighted, patting me on my back, and paying 
all the men as well as myself very handsomely. 

" He wrapped the Bible in a handkerchief, and deposited 
it in his breast-pocket most carefully. It was currently 
believed that this was a book of necromancy, just as it had 
struck me in the welL" 



268 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

After lingering for some time by the well-side, we rode 
across the fields to the centre of the mouth of the valley, 
where, nearly due north of the well, there is a square 
space, surrounded by high, plastered, whitewashed stone 
walls. We dismounted, and passing one by one through a 
narrow opening, we stood within, the inclosure. In the 
centre is a clumsy-looking tomb, about three feet high 
and six feet long. The top terminates in a bluntly-pointed 
ridge. At the head and at the foot, a rude stone pillar, 
the same height as the tomb, is set up on the floor. There 
are many niches in the walls for small lamps, and they are 
lighted during certain festivals, and by devotees on parti- 
cular occasions. The walls are almost covered with inscrip- 
tions in Hebrew, Samaritan, and Arabic, some, which were 
deeply engraved, seem to have been written more than two 
hundred years ago. Modem European travellers, too, have 
left their names there. This is supposed to be the tomb of 
Joseph. It is recorded that when he was on his death-bed 
he exacted a promise from his sons that they would carry 
him into the land given to Abraham and his seed for ever. 
So when he died, " they embalmed him, and put him in 
coffin in Egypt.'* And again it is written : " the bones of 
Joseph, which the children of Israel brought up out of 
Egypt, buried they in Shechem, in a parcel of ground 
which Jacob bought of the sons of Hamor, the father of 
Shechem, for an hundred pieces of silver : and it became 
the inheritance of the children of Joseph." A vine was 
trailing over the northern wall, and I gathered a few of its 
tender leaves and tendrils, and the wild campion, white 
and red, flourished round the tomb. We then rode towards 
Nabliis up the middle of the valley. Clouds were gathering 
in the west over the sea, all tinged with ruddy golden light 
from the setting sun. A small tower on Mount Gerizim 
marks the spot where the Feast of the Passover is kept 
and the paschal lamb slain. 

As we approached the town, we saw a large concourse of 
Moslem boys playing at hockey, or some similar game, on 
a broad, smooth plot of ground just outside the eastern 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 269 

gate, alid while we paused to watch the skilful players, 
we heard shouts and screams and war-cries from within 
the walls. We hastened in, and found that a sudden 
excitement had seized the Moslems in one quarter of the 
town. We inquired the cause, and were told by a Moslemj 
that news had arrived that the surrounding villages were 
up in arms and preparing to attack Nabliis. This we 
found afterwards was an impromptu fabrication to deceive 
us — the real cause of the uproar was a report that a 
Christian had killed, injured, or insulted a Moslem. For- 
tunately the false impression was removed before any mis- 
chief was done, but the loud, angry voices of the groups of 
men, and even women, in the street, convinced me for the 
first time of the hazardous position of Christians, when the 
fanaticism of the lower class of Moslems is fully roused. 
We rode unmolested through the gathering crowds, not 
suspecting that a general massacre of the Christians was 
actually then being proposed. We did not understand the 
facts of the case till we reached the hotel, when the tumult 
had quite subsided, in consequence of the discovery that 
it was a Christian, and not a Moslem, who had been 
slightly injured. 

I could see that a trifling provocation, real or imaginary, 
might at any moment lead to bloodshed — yet I did not 
entertain any fears for myself, or for my brother. I felt 
perfectly safe there without well knowing why. 

A party of Moslem gentlemen spent the evening with 
us, and seemingly, though not avowedly, they did all in 
their power to remove any unfavourable impression I might 
have received from witnessing the momentary excitement 
at sunset. 

On the following day, the 6th of March, we called on 
Michael Kawarre, the native Protestant catechist and teacher. 
His brother was the Prussian Consular Agent, and their 
father, SamS.an Kawarre, and his friends, received us very 
cordially in a small but pretty vaulted chamber, with low 
carpeted and cushioned divans on three sides. A large 
shallow dish, containing at least two hujidred bunches of 



270 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

freshly gathered blue violets, stood on a low stool in the 
centime of the matted floor, and filled the air with their 
pleasant odour. I expressed my admiration of these flowers 
to Samlan, and he said : " Lady, I will bring you a sweeter 
and more precious flower." He went away and presently re- 
turned with his little grand-daughter, Zahra, which signifies 
flower, held lovingly in his arms. She was a pretty child 
of about four years of age, but as serious and composed as 
a woman. She wore smooth, ruby-coloured glass bracelets 
on her wrists, which had been put on many months before, 
and were now too small to pass over her chubby little 
hands. 

These glass bracelets are often obliged to be carefully 
broken before they can be removed from the arms of young 
children, for they are simple rings of various colours, and 
made without any fastening. 

I asked Zahra where the violets grew. She said : " They 
came up out of the ground under the lemon-trees, for the 
ladies. They come only now, they are not there always." 

I said : " What do the ladies do with the violets ?"—" The 
ladies put them in their head-dresses, and are glad, because 
they have a sweet smelL" But one of the guests said: 
** The little one has not yet learnt that these flowers are 
dried in the sun, and then used for making tea for those 
who are sick of fever." 

As we left the house, one said to us : " Come into the 
garden where the violets grow." We followed him, and 
went into a spacious inclosure, where lemon, citron, orange, 
and quince-trees made a pleasant shade, and apple and 
almond-trees were full of blossoms. The ground was con* 
pletely carpeted with the clustering heart-shaped leaves of 
the violet, and sprinkled with its blue blossoms. I have 
seen them in our own wild-wood walks, crowding lovingly 
together in groups, or springing up round the trunks of 
ancient trees, but I never saw such a profusion of these 
sweet flowers as I did then in that Nablfts garden. We 
could not move a step without crushing the tender leaves 
beneath our feet. We were led into the centre of the 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 271 

garden, where a very large square pool or reservoir had 
been made, with a stone parapet round it. On the south 
side there was a pleasant vaulted stone chamber, with a 
wide-spreading archway opening close on to the edge of the 
pool. Here carpets and cushions were spread, and coffee 
and pipes, sherbets, and fruit and flowers were brought for 
us. This is the beau-ideal of Oriental afternoon enjoyment 
—a lulling narghile in an arched recess, near to a pool or 
stream of sparkling water — in the midst of a fruit garden, 
carpeted with violets, in the spring — and with white ever- 
lasting flowers in the summer and autumn. These delights 
are the chief subjects of many of the modem Arab songs 
and poems. 

Before sunset we traversed the town from one end to the 
other, and went to the house of Daood Tannoos, the chief 
member of the Protestant community in Nablfts, where 
we had been invited to dine. We were led up a crooked, 
open stone stairway, to an irregular uneven court, into 
which several rooms and a kitchen opened. In the latter 
the mistress of the house and women-servants were busy in 
the midst of savoury odours. They stood in the wide door- 
way, half hiding their faces, and looking shyly at us as we 
passed to the guest-chamber. Monthly roses and carnations 
in full blossom, planted in large, broken, red clay water- 
jars, turned upside down, stood on each side of the entrance 
steps. The room was large, though not lofty — raised divans 
covered with Manchester prints were on three sides of it, 
and a mosquito-curtained bed on the other. Fifteen of our 
Nablfts friends were assembled there to meet us, and among 
them M. Zeller, but no women appeared. While we were 
seated on the divan, one of the guests said to me in broken 
English : " Your friendship with your brother the Consul 
has already become a proverb in this city." " How so ?" I 
inquired. He explained : " To-day I heard people angrily 
talking and crying near my house, and they made a great 
noise, and I rose and went to the door of my house, and a 
man named Yusef came that way, and I said : * What was 
the reason of that noise V and he replied : * Only two womeu 



272 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

disputing and fighting, bnt tliey have now made peace, and 
they have sworn to each other a friendship like unto the 
friendship of the English Consul and his sister ! "* I said : 
*' Is it thcA in this land reckoned a strange thing that a 
brother and sister should, be great friends ? " Another guest, 
a thoughtful and intelligent man, to whom my question was 
repeated in Arabic, replied : " People in this country are 
naturally surprised that you can journey with the Consul, 
share his pursuits, and the dangers to which he may be ex- 
posed, and be really and truly his companion. It i^ thing 
not understood here, where the education of men and 
women differs so greatly, and where brothers and sisters see 
but little of each other after their childhood, except when the 
father of a family dies — ^for then the eldest son becomes the 
guardian of his widowed mother and of his brothers and 
sisters. But the latter are maiTied early, and then he has no 
more charge concerning them. Our women marvel greatly 
among themselves that you have left your country and 
your home to travel with the Consul, while your parents 
are yet living, and they conclude that you must have a 
strong friendship for each other." And a third spoke and 
said : " Thou hast spoken truly, yet let it be known also to 
our English sister, that our women and girls rejoice greatly 
when they have many brothers, and it is their pride and 
delight to hear their friends say: * Happy art thou, O sister 
of seven men, may they soon be maiiied, and may you live 
to see their children's children !* And it is said that a woman 
sometimes regards the life of her brother as more precious 
than her own, or than that of her husband, or her son. When 
Ibrahim Pasha, the son of Mahomet Ali, ruled in Palestine, 
he sent men into all the towns and villages to gather to- 
gether a large army. Then a certain woman of Sefurieh, 
sought Ibrahim Pasha at 'Akka, and came into his presence, 
bowing herself before him, and said : * 0, my lord, look 
with pity on thy servant, and hear my prayer; a little 
while ago there were three men in my house, my husband — 
my brother — and my eldest son. But now, behold they all 
have been carried away to serve in your army, and I am 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. ' 273 

left with my little ones without a protector, I pray you 
grant liberty to one of these men, that he may remain at 
home. And Ibrahim had pity on her, and said : ' 
woman ! do you ask for your husband, for your son, or for 
your brother ? ' 

" She said : * my lord, give me my brother !' and he 
answered : * How is this, woman — do you prefer a 
brother to a husband or a son?' The woman, who was 
renowned for her wit and readiness of speech, replied in an 
impromjjtu rhyme : — 

' If it be God's will that my husband perish in your service, 
I am still a woman and God may lead me to another husband. 
If on the battle field my first-born son should fall, 
I have still my younger ones who will in God's time be like unto him. 
Bat Oh ! my loixl, if my only brother should be slain, 
I am without remedy — for my father is dead and my mother is old. 
And where should I look for another brother ?' 

" And Ibrahim was much pleased with the words of the 
woman, and said : * woman ! happy above many is thy 
brother, he shall be free for thy word's sake, and thy 
husband and son shall be free also.' Then the woman 
could not speak for joy and gladness. And Ibrahim said : 
' Go in peace — but let it not be known that I have spoken 
with you this day.' 

" Then she rose and went her way to her village, trust- 
ing in the promise of the pasha. After three days, her 
husband, and son, and brother returned to her, saying: 
*We are free from service, by order of the pasha, but 
this matter is a mystery to us.' And all the neighbours 
marvelled greatly. But the woman held her peace, and this 
story did not become known, until Ibrahim's departure 
from 'Akka, after the overthrow of the Egyptian Govern- 
ment in Syria, in 1840." 

Several similar anecdotes were related, while prepara- 
tions for dinner were being made. A large circular tray 
was brought in, and placed on. a stand, raised about six 
inches from the matted floor, in the middle of the room. 
Our kawass, and the servants and attendants of the guests, 

T 



274 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

acted as waiters. They bustled backwards and forwards 
across the court, from the door of the kitchen to the table, 
which was soon covered with steaming, yellow mounds of 
rice, crowned with limbs of fowls and morsels of lamb. 
A large wooden bowl — containing a medley of rice, minced 
mutton, raisins, pine-seeds, and butter, stood in the centre, 
and was surrounded by plates of vegetables. 

After water had been poured on our hands, we gathered 
round the board, and took our places, in Oriental fashion, 
on the floor. A damask napkin, about half a yard wide, 
and ten yards long, was passed round in front of the 
assembled guests, and rested on their knees. Its gold- 
embroidered and fringed ends met where I was seated, 
between our *host, Daood Tannoos, and my brother. Flat 
cakes, or loaves of bread, were distributed, and we ate in 
primitive style, for neither knives, nor forks, nor spoons 
appeared. Deep impressions were soon made in the 
mounds of rice, and by degrees the dishes were carried 
away, and replaced by others, containing sweet starch and 
creams, stewed apricots, and preserves. 

We left the table, one after another, and performed the 
customary ablutions in due order. When we had reseated 
ourselves on the divan, coffee and pipes were served, and 
lamps were lighted The table was carried out into the 
open court, and two or three bowls of rice being added to 
the dishes we had left, the numerous attendants and ser- 
vants of the house, took their evening meal there together, 
by lantern-light, forming a study for a Eerabrandt. 

I went into an adjoining room for a few minutes, to 
see the ladies of the house, and the neighbours who 
were with them. They received me very kindly, but 
with a little shyness. One said to me : " I hope you have 
made a good dinner — v,'e have nothing here fit to offer 
you — we are only simple people, and cannot serve you as 
we should like to do." I said : " I very much enjoyed that 
which your hands, peace be upon them, prepared so 
nicely ; but I should have enjoyed it still more, if you, 
my sisters, had eaten with us." They seemed quite amused 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 275 

at the idea, and some of them blushed and laughed heartily. 
One of. the elder women said seriously: "It is not our 
custom, my daughter, to eat with men — ^it would be a 
shame for us." And a young girl exclaimed : " lady, 
the bread and meat would choke us, if we took it in the 
midst of a company of men." I took leave of the women, 
and returned to the divan, and at about eight o'clock the 
guests separated, for genuine Oriental dinner parties are 
never late entertainments. 

Daood Tannoos gathered his finest roses and carnations 
for us, and we walked home through the narrow streets, 
attended by lantern-bearers and several friends. 

In the meantime, preparations had been made for my 
journey to Jerusalem. The Consul, Mr. Finn,* had sent his 
Hebrew dragoman and his head kawass to fetch me, that 
my brother might be free to follow Kamiel Pasha, without 
anxiety, wherever he might go. It was expected that the 
pasha would visit all the rebellious villages, and perhaps 
besiege some of them, in which case he might be absent 
from Nablfts for many days. Under these circumstances, 
I had no alternative, and immediately made ready for 
starting early on the morrow. 

Until a late hour, friends and neighbours, of aU sects 
and classes, came in to take leave of me, and to wish me a 
prosperous and safe journey. The Moslems especially mar- 
velled that I could venture to travel so far without my 
brother. They said : " May God make a straight path for 
you on His earth.'' 



T 2 



CHAPTER XL 



IWOKJE early on the following morning, Friday, March 
7th, with an unusual sense of oppression and sudden 
fear, as if I had some very sad or difficult task to perform 
that day. The packed portmanteaus and the riding-habit, 
&c. in readiness by my side, instantly brought to my recol- 
lection the plans for my journey to Jerusalem — ^a journey of 
about thirteen hours and generally made in two stages, but 
which I had determined to accomplish in one, as there is 
not a good halting place on the road, nor any village in 
which I should have been willing to seek a night's lodging 
unless in company with my brother, or in case of absolute 
necessity. 

By the time I was thoroughly aroused my fears had 
vanished. Mohammed, our faithful Egyptian groom, came 
tapping at my door to ask for my luggage, and he said: " Be 
of good cheer, lady, may the day be white to you " — and 
the kawass of Ody Azam, who stood by the door, said : " If 
this day be dark to our lady, it will be darkened indeed 
unto many." 

I breakfasted early, but it was haK-past eight o'clock 
before the horses and riders were all ready. Then after 
taking leave of my goodnatured hostess, I mounted and 
rode through the streets of Nablfts with a few friends who 
had arranged to accompany me a short distance on the 
way. Priest Amran, the Samaritan, who walked by my 
side, with his hand on the neck of my good horse, ex- 
claimed : " Passover is nigh at hand, and you will not be 
with us on the mountain — ^this will be a grief to us — for 
our hearts had been made glad with the thought that you 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 277 

would be with us, and now "behold our hope is departed 
from us." 

I told him how sincerely I regretted leaving Nabliis so 
soon. Then he pronounced a prayer and a blessing for me, 
and went his way. 

A Christian of the Greek Catholic Church who was with 
us, and who had heard the words of Amran and my answer, 
said : " Eejoice, rather, lady, that you are privileged to 
keep the festival of Easter in the Holy City, Jerusalem, 
that you may worship in the Church of the Sepulchre of 
our Lord. It is better for you to do so than to pass the 
Holy Week on * this mountain ' with Samaritans, who be- 
smear their foreheads with blood and believe not in the 
name of Christ and our Blessed Lady." I was strikingly 
reminded of Christ's words to the woman of Samaria : — 
" The hour cometh when ye shall neither in this mountain nor 
yet at Jerusalem^ worship the Father.'^ " God is a Spirit^ and 
they that worship Himy must worship Him in spirit and in 
truth." 

There had been rain during the night, and the stone 
houses of Nablfts, the white rocky terraces which bordered 
the fruit gardens on the hill-sides, and the slabs of smooth 
stone in the plains, glistened like mirrors in the gleams of 
sunshine. The grass, the wild flowers, the fruit trees and 
the broad fields of wheat and barley were still wet with 
the recent shower, and looked vividly green where the 
quickly travelling clouds overshadowed them. 

We took the upper path over the spurs of Gerizim, it 
was rocky and stony, but bright with mezereons, vetches, 
and forget-me-nots. We met a number of soldiers and 
several large parties of horsemen. The traffic on the roads 
leading to NabKis was greatly increased at that time owing 
to the presence of Kamiel Pasha and his troops. The lower 
road, which is nearly in the middle of the plain, and 
passes near to Jacob's Well, was traversed by companies of 
peasants and strings of camels, donkeys laden with fire- 
wood, and women carrying bowls of milk or cream. I was 
assured that the scene was unusually animated for the 



278 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

time of the year, but the plain is more busy and cheerful- 
looking in harvest time. 

We passed two small villages, the lawless-looking in- 
habitants of which came out to watch us as we went by, 
while their children shouted in chorus, and their dogs 
barked savagely. In about one hour and a half we came 
to Hawara, which is the third village on the way from 
Nabhifl. It is a large, strongly-built place though unwalled ; 
its houses are like little castles. The olive-trees and gar- 
dens around it were in flourishing order. Near to this spot 
the upper and lower roads are united, and just where the 
two ways meet, we paused, and my brother and my KTabhis 
friends took leave of me, and rode quickly away down the 
lower road in the plain, while I went on with my little 
escort, which consisted of three individuals. Mr. Finn's 
head kawass, a clever and energetic Moslem, led the way. 
He wore a scarlet cloth jacket braided with gold, full white 
cotton trowsers, and a red cloth tarbouche. He carried a 
sword and pistols, and was mounted on a fine black horse, 
of which he was very proud. Mohammed, our faithful 
Egjrptian groom, who had charge of the luggage, was 
dressed in a long hooded drab cloth pelisse, made at 
Aleppo and ornamented tastefully with broad black 
braid. He was riding on his indefatigable little donkey. 
Mr. Simeon R, the Hebrew dragoman of the British 
Consulate at Jerusalem, was the third. He was bom of 
Jewish parents at Bucharest, but had embraced Chris- 
tianity and had lived in Jerusalem nearly thirty years. He 
spoke English pretty fluently but with Oriental idioms, in 
fact nearly every sentence which he uttered was like a 
quotation from the Bible. He was a stout, elderly man, 
with a ruddy face, bushy grey hair, and twinkling grey eyes. 
He was dressed in European clothes, but wore over them a 
large white abai or cloak made of goat's hair, and a broad- 
brimmed hat covered with white calico, and with white 
muslin wound round it and hanging down behind like 
a veil. He carried a brace of pistols, and to his care I 
was especially committed, though Mohammed, the groom. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 279 

seemed to think that he was my more natural guardian, 
and he kept as near to me as his laden donkey and the 
uneven roads would let him. Sometimes he was almost 
wedged in between me and a projecting rock, or he came 
suddenly forward just under my horse's feet, or would 
follow me so closely that he was in danger of a kick. He 
was very good and attentive though, and if he saw me look 
at a flower he would immediately jump down to gather it, 
though I never could teach him to tring me a stalk more 
than an inch long, and he rarely brought me the right 
flower. I looked back now and then to see the last of my 
brother and his little party, as they rode towards the green 
valley of Nablfts. Mr. Simeon, who was by my side, said : 
"I pray you. Miss Eogers, do not look back any more. 
AVhen you look back so, as if you had no heart to go on, it 
makes me think that you have no trust in me. I pray 
you look forward only." 

To reassure him, I cast no more longing looks behind, 
and though I felt rather sad, I would not let it be per- 
ceived. For about two hours we passed through a highly- 
cultivated district of hills and plains, dotted with villages, 
olive-groves, and orchards, and green fields where labourers 
were busy. Women, with their heads covered and their 
faces almost concealed with white linen or cotton veils, 
were gathering tares, bright wild flowers, and weeds, among 
the com. Some of them had infants slung on their 
shoulders, and in unsown tracts of land, girls were toil- 
ing at picking out the stones. Men were sitting in groups 
smoking and gossiping, while others were digging up the 
ground in gardens and orchards, and placing large stones 
round the trunks of old olive-trees. They looked up from 
their work to gaze at us with curiosity. Mr. Simeon over- 
heard the criticisms of some passers by. They were 
wondering who I might be, when one of them settled the 
question, very decidedly, by saying: "She is a foreigner 
belonging to the hareem of Kamiel Pasha, and she is 
going to Jerusalem for safety, for there may be war in the 
neighbourhood of Nabliis soon.*' 



280 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

At a little after midday we rested for half an hour near 
to a well-sidfe at the. foot of a very steep hilL Mr. Simeon 
spread cold fowls and bread and wine before me, on a smooth 
block of stone. At one o'clock we started again, and at- 
tempted to ascend the hill, by one of the worst and most 
stony roads in the country. Mr. Simeon's clumsy saddle 
slipped down over the back of his horse — ^but he was for- 
tunately able to save himself by clinging to the neck and 
mane of the animal, and then jumping to the ground. 
He directed the kawass to guide us by another road, even 
though it might be a longer one, saying to me : "I am afraid 
for you, for if any harm befal you, I shall not dare to see your 
brother's face again." I consented, though rather reluctaiitly, 
to take the longer and easier road. The scenery had quite 
changed. We had left behind us the pleasant plains of 
Ephraim, and the cultivated gardens and terraced hill-sides, 
and with the exception of one unusually fine oak, which 
stands conspicuously near to the ruins of an ancient castle, 
on a high ridge, we did not see a tree for several miles. 
But the beautiful poterium spinosum, in full leaf and 
blossom, grew profusely wherever there was any earth 
on the stony hills. We passed down a wUd and narrow 
glen. The cliffs on each side were steep and abrupt, 
pierced with caverns, and channeled with water-courses, 
and in the bottom of the valley there were large rocks of 
fantastic form, percolated by rain, and tinted red, grey, 
orange-colour, and lavender, relieved by black and white. 
On the rock-ledges above us, there were scanty crops of 
barley, wheat, and lentUes, and olive and fig-trees ap- 
peared again in small groups. Flocks of goats and larger 
cattle were being led out to seek for pasture by rather 
desperate-looking herdsmen, well armed. Mr. Simeon told 
me that we were traversing a district celebrated from time 
immemorial for the lawless and daring character of its 
inhabitants. The pleasant sound of falling water attracted 
my attention. It was trickling down the side of the cliff, 
amid ferns, mosses, liverwort, and tiny wild flowers with 
blue and yellow blossoms. It splashed into reservoirs, 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 281 

hollowed out one below the other in the native rock, at 
the foot of the cliflE I was informed that this pretty 
waterfall is appropriately called " Ain-el-Har^amiyeh," or 
the " Fountain of the Bobbers,'* for it is often the scene of 
violence, and travellers are frequently waylaid by bandits 
in this wild glen. 

It was three o'clock, and we were about half-way on 
our road to Jerusalem, when we entered " Wady-el-Tin," 
ie. the " Valley of Figs " It is well named, for it is a 
long wide grove of trees. But it was then so early in the 
spring, that the fig-trees were not sufficiently advanced to 
be beautiful, and though some of them had "put forth 
their green figs," and on others a few tender leaves ap- 
peared, they were for the most part almost bare. They gave 
me the idea of a petrified leafless forest, for the tortuous 
trunks and branches were almost as white as the rocks 
and stones amid which they grew. This valley in the 
summer time is a lovely place, for then the large green 
leaves form a perfect shade, the ripe and abundant fruit 
cools the lips of the thirsty traveller, and the air is filled 
with a sweet odour exactly like that of the heliotrope. 
The road led us over an extensive plateau, where hollyhocks 
and anemones, and other bright blossoms, grew among 
thorns, while here and there patches of cultivated land 
appeared. On the hills around we could see solitary 
villages perched on rocky terraces, in the midst of orchards 
and vineyards. 

The way was easy for the horses, and the sun had lost 
its power, so I urged the kawass to ride forward more 
quickly, and I followed him cantering between the corn- 
fields and among the thorns and spring flowers. But I 
soon found that Mr. Simeon could not keep up with us. 
I waited for him, and when he, almost out of breath, joined 
us, he said : " I am very sorry, but I have no power to run." 
So we proceeded more slowly, and did not reach " Beittn," 
the House of Figs, till six o'clock. 

The shades of evening were deepening rapidly, and we 
did not pause to examine the extensive ruins on the ridge, 



282 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

but alighted in the valley close to the remains of an 
ancient cistern, formed of large well-hewn stones. The 
bottom of it was covered with a bed of fine fresh grass, in 
the midst of which a stream of water flowed from foun- 
tains gushing out of the rock just above it. Scriptural 
topographists, ancient and modem, agi^ee that this is 
the Bethel of the Bible. Abraham of old very likely 
drank of that fountain, and the handmaidens of Sarah 
may have lingered there day after day when they went 
down to draw water. There we rested for about half an 
hour, and took coffee. 

The sun had gone down when we rose up to pursue our 
journey. We were more than three hours' distance 
from Jerusalem. The stars were shining brightly in a 
dark sky overhead, but all round the horizon a halo of 
pale light concealed them. The temperature changed very 
suddenly at sunset, and we were glad to put on hoods 
and cloaks. The kawass wrapped a brown camel-hair abai 
around him, and in this dusky costume it was quite im- 
possible to distinguish him on his black horse, as he rode 
on before me, through valleys or down steep slopes. 
Now and then, as we ascended a hill, or traversed high 
table-land, I could see the silhouette of his tarbouched 
head against the sky, just above the horizon. I could not 
make out any of the objects around me except the white 
rocks, in the midst of dark bushes and thorns, and now 
and then a smooth sheet of water, which reflected the 
stars, arid looked very deep — but my leader splashed 
through it, and when" I followed, I found that the water 
only wetted my horse's fetlocks, and was the result of the 
recent rain. Sometimes I could see a solitary tree in 
dark relief against a white cliff, or the outline of a 
village crowning a hill-top. I could not judge of 
distances correctly, and I was several times startled by 
dark objects appearing to me to be gigantic and far 
away, but which I found were in reality insignificant in 
size, and so close to me, as to be within reach of my 
riding-whip. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 283 

We were going on in single file, and I was immediately 
behind the kawass. 1 was so tired of trying in vain 
not to lose sight of him, that I said to Mr. Simeon: " Oblige 
me by riding forward, and I will follow you, your white 
horse and white cloak can be seen even in this darkness, 
and I am tired of watching the kawass." He passed, and 
for a few minutes rode before me, but suddenly stopped, 
half-way down a steep declivity, saying : " I am afraid for 
you. I cannot let you ride, and I not see you. Not Jacob 
gave more anxious charge to his sons when they carried 
away Benjamin, than I have received concerning you, and 
how can I let you ride in these dangerous paths out of my 
sight ? Let me follow you, I pray, and you keep close as 
you can to the kawass, and do not let your horse run — 
there are loose stones here, and smooth slabs of rock — let 
him go very gently." I yielded to his entreaty, and once 
more rode after the invisible leader. I trusted to my 
horse that he would keep in the right path, and I went on 
silently as if in a dream. 

Suddenly my musings were interrupted. My horse 
started back on his hind legs, for the kawass had turned 
abruptly round and had come to a standstill, and ex- 
claimed : " Ma fee darb " — " There is no road 1 " He ex- 
plained that he had been out of the right track for about 
half an hour, and he had only just then discovered that we 
were approaching the brow of a steep cliff. His horse had 
nearly carried him over the edge. Mohammed began 
abusing him in very strong terms and sarcastic undertones, 
while Mr. Simeon seemed to be much alarmed and in 
great trouble. We were on high table-land and had reason 
to be thankful that we had not been dashed down into the 
dark defile below. I asked the kawass if he had any 
means of judging where we were. He said he knew we 
must be somewhere between Er-Eam — the ancient Ramah, 
and Tel-el-Fiil, — the ancient Otbeah,* He proposed to 

* When a ^ certain Levite " was travelling from Bethlehem home to 
Ephndm with his reooYered " concubine,*' towards the close of the day he 
said to his servant : *' Let us draw near to one of these places, to lodge aU 



284 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

alight and look for some signs by which he might recover 
the lost track and a practicable path leading to it. So he 
tethered his horse to a tree, and Mr. Simeon and Moham- 
med did the same, but I remained mounted. Mohammed 
handed a hookah to me, and I sat still, smoking, while the 
three men went in different directions to see if they could 
recognise any rock, tree, or streamlet, fountain or ruin which 
might give them a clue, I told them not to go out of sight 
of the light of my hookah or out of each other's hearing. 

It was with strange emotion that I rested there, in the 
darkness and alone. 

I should have suffered, perhaps, more from fear, if the 
strangeness and peculiarity of my position had not excited 
my interest and wonder so completely as to rouse within 
me the spirit of love of adventure. The silence of night 
was broken at intervals by the crying and snarling voices 
of jackals and the barking and yelling of wild dogs and 
hyenas. 

Now and then I heard the men calling to each other, 
and the tethered animals would sometimes neigh and shake 
themselves, as if answering the voices of their respective 
masters, but my horse stood perfectly still, while I smoked, 
and thought, and looked up into the night-sky, where the 
stars appeared infinite in number and now shone close 
down to the darkened horizon. I was almost over- 
whelmed with the multitude of new ideas and vivid scenes 
which passed through my mind. " My spirit had climbed 
high," by reason of the very, danger near, and " from the 
top of sense overlooked sense, to the significance and heart 
of things, rather than things themselves."* 

In rather less than half aphour, though it seemed more 
to me, the joyful cry of " II hamdlillah !" " II hamdlillah!'* 
— " Praised be God!" was echoed from one side to another, 

night in Gibeah or in Ramah; and the sun went down upon them when 
they were by Gibeah, and they turned aside thither to go in to lodge in 
Gibeah." And the city was destroyed and the people were scattered for the 
wrong they did to the travellers that night ; and behold the flame of the 
city ascended up to heaven. — Judges xiz. 
* Mrs. Browning. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 286 

and soon Mr. Simeon, who had not been far ojff, was 
by my side, and the other men rejoined me. They 
had found the right road, and a way to reach it, so we 
started again, following the kawass ; we had to go down 
a very difi&cult and dangerous declivity. My horse, 
usually very sure-footed, stumbled forward over a smooth 
slab of inclined rock, and some loose stones. I was very 
nearly thrown over his head — the excellence of my hunting 
saddle saved me — but I was so shaken and startled that I 
trembled from head to foot, and was obliged to pause for a 
few minutes. A hookah, the Oriental panacea, was brought 
to me. It was so very dark down in that vaUey that I 
could scarcely distinguish one of the men ifrom the other 
as they gathered round me. I soon recovered my com- 
posure and courage to proceed. We splashed through a 
stream, and scrambled up a steep embankment, and crossed 
a stony wady before we regained the proper route. I had 
desired the kawass to fasten a white handkerchief over his 
head as a beacon for me. We were going up a hill, and I 
was watching this mark, when suddenly a circle of light 
appeared near it, like a nimbus, and was accompanied by 
a clicking noise. I found that our leader was striking a 
light for his pipe by a method which I had never before 
seen adopted. The flint, steel, and tinder were fastened to 
strings which were tied to the end of a stick, and whirled 
round and round till the flint threw out sparks of fire. 

As soon as we reached the heights of Tel-el-FM — the 
" Hill of Beans," I could see in the west, the well remem- 
bered and marked outline of Neby Samuel, and in the far 
east the long level line of the mountains of Moab, and 
southward, straight before us, I recognised the hills roimd 
about Jerusalem. Soon afterwards from the summit of 
Scopus we perceived the dark minarets and domes of the 
Holy City and the Mount of Olives, where a light was 
burning in the little tower which was then caUed ** Graham 
Castle." 

It was half-past eleven when we stood by the crenellated 
walls of Jerusalem. 



286 DOMESTIC LIFE m PALESTINB. 

The gates were closed, and there was death-like silence 
there, till the kawass knocked loudly against the west or 
Y&fa gate. The sentinels within were roused, and they 
cried : " Who is there f " We explained, and then one of the 
sentinels said, " The gate was kept open till ten o'clock, "but 
now the key is with the governor." The governor was 
living at the other end of the town ; however a messenger 
was immediately despatched to him, to ask for permission 
to admit us. Another messenger was sent to the consulate 
to announce our safe arrival. We, in the meantime, tired 
and hungry, were shivering in the midnight air outside the 
gate, and twenty minutes elapsed before it was thrown 
open for us. Then I entered in with joy, for I felt at 
home there, and safe. I hastened across the well-known 
Castle Square, and up the narrow passage, clattering over 
the uneven pavement, and drew up my horse at the 
entrance to the consulate, where my kind friends, Mr. and 
Mrs. Finn, came out to welcome me. They led me, hooded 
and cloaked as I was, into their briUiantly-lighted drawing- 
room, where a conversazione of the "Jerusalem literary 
society" was being held. The rooms were quite English 
in character, and bright with lamps, and well-arranged 
flowers, and filled with English guests, many of whom 
were recently arrived travellers, strangers to me. Large 
logs of wood were burning and crackling on the fire-dogs 
in the chimney place. The whole presented a most striking 
contrast to the scenes and society by which I had been 
lately surrounded, and the delight I felt made me almost 
forget my fatigue. After the guests had gone we lingered 
for an hour by the fire in pleasant chat, and then for the 
first time I slept and found perfect rest and peace within 
the walls of Jerusalem ! 

It was very pleasant when I woke in the morning to see 
the Consul's children round me, and to hear their English 
greetings, and their glad familiar voices. 

I found Jerusalem in the early spring, altogether diJBEerent 
to Jerusalem in the hot summer time, when it had often 
appeared to me, literally — " a city of stone, in a land of iron. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 287 

with a sky of brass," and when at midday all unsheltered 
places were quite deserted, and those people who could do 
so, lived in tents in olive-groves in the valleys or on the 
hills round about Jerusalem. Now all was changed. The 
few open spaces within the city walls were green with 
grass, or patches of wheat and barley, and the whole of the 
mosque inclosure was like meadow land sprinkled with 
flowers. The very walls were garnished with rough leaves, 
stonecrop, pellitory and bright blossoms. Among them the 
bitter hyssop and bright yellow henbane were pointed out 
to me, growing luxuriantly on the tower of Hippicus, in the 
dry moat, and on all the most ancient buildings — while 
out of the cracks of the domes, and on the terraced roofs of 
many of the houses straggling herbage sprang. In the 
streets there was renewed activity, for already the Latin 
pilgrims were beginning to flock to Jerusalem that they 
might celebrate Easter at the Holy Sepulchre. English 
and American travellers were to be seen in the principal 
streets, sketching under difficulties in the midst of crowds 
of lookers on, or making bad bargains with the turbanned 
salesmen in the bazaars. Outside the town, too, the 
scenery had changed. Wherever the earth rested on the 
rocky hills, verdure appeared, and the plains, and the ceme- 
teries and valleys, were gay with flowers. Bulbous plants 
abounded, especially asphodels, and the hyacinth, squill, 
garlic, and star of Bethlehem. Every evening at sunset large 
companies of people of all tribes and nations might be seen 
entering the city gates after having enjoyed their evening 
walk. I made pleasant excursions in the neighbourhood, 
and revisited many of the chief places in Jerusalem with 
parties of English travellers, and thus the tune passed till 
March 18th, when to my delight my brother arrived soon 
after sunrise, in company with the Pasha and his troops. 
During the day a fierce hot sirocco wind prevailed, and 
threatened to scorch and destroy the crops. Before sunset 
we rode out with a large party, to see the Jewish planta^ 
tion, where newly grafted olive-trees were putting forth 
new leaves, and apricot and nectarine, and other fruit 



288 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

trees looked flourishing. But the fields of wheat and barley 
and the beds of vegetables thirsted for the "latter rain." 
The gardeners and farm labourers had been praying for it 
for many days. They called our attention to a-smaJl group of 
dense black clouds which were then slowly rising out of the 
west — ^and one of them said : " our hope is in those clouds." 
As we rode homewards, a few large drops of rain reminded 
us of the gardener's words. During the night the west 
wind rose with unusual violence, shook the house to its 
foundations, and disturbed all the sleepers. The Arab 
servants who rose and went from room to room to make 
the shutters and windows more secure, said : "It is well; 
this strong wind will bring rain. The cisterns will be 
filled with water, and the corn will grow. Praised be 
God!" 

On the following morning, March 19th, torrents of rain 
and hail began to fall, and continued without intermission 
all day and during the night. On Thursday the storm was 
even more violent; the hail- stones generally were as large as 
cherry-stones, but some were three or four times the size. 
At midday wide flakes of snow fell, but melted quickly. 

On Good Friday, March 21st, the first sounds I heard 
on waking, were the joyful voices of the children. They 
knocked at my door, crying : " The Kedron is flowing ! the 
brook Kedron, you know! It is flowing, make haste and 
get up. See, here is some of the water." 

I found that the peasantry had entered the city at sun- 
rise, in triumph, to annoimce the news. They had brought 
several goatskins and jars filled with the water. The bearers 
of good tidings are now, as of old, entitled to a backshish, 
so these peasants reaped a good harvest that morning in 
Jerusalem. The storm continued, and did not cease for a 
moment till Saturday morning, and there was scarcely an 
upper chamber in Jerusalem which was uninjured by it. I 
was assured that three such days of rain had never been 
witnessed there at that season, by any one living. Spring 
showers are generally of short duration, and quickly 
followed by sunshine. But this unexpected supply of 



DOMESTIC LUIS IK PALESTINE. 28d- 

water was veiy welcome, for the winter rains had been less 
abundant than usual, and had not filled the pools, or *' sent 
the springs into the valleys which run among the hills." 
On Saturday afternoon the sun shone brightly on the rain- 
refreshed earth, and hundreds of people went out to look 
at the waters of the brook Kedron. I rode with my brother 
out at the Y&fa Gate, and along the vsdley of Gihon. 

We made our way quickly down to En Eogel, the source 
of the stream. It is south-east of Jerusalem, and called 
by the Arabs: " Blr-el-Eyiib"— the Well of Job. We were' 
surprised to find that not only had the spring below the 
well bubbled up as usual, but the force of the body of 
water was so great, that it had risen up and overflowed the 
ancient shaft, which is one hundred and twenty-five feet 
deep. A large concourse of people were already assembled 
thera Groups of Moslems sat under the olive-trees, close 
to the stream, smoking narghiles, drinking cofiee, playing 
with their rosaries, and looking supremely happy. Boys 
were going about selling sweetmeats and cakes, which they 
carried on round trays made of reeds. There were several 
rival purveyors of coffee and pipes. One would have 
thought that it was fair-day at En EogeL All sorts of 
skins, jea*s of all shapes and sizes, and other vessels had 
been brought down to the stream, that they might be fiUed 
there. Women in white sheets sat in groups on the sun- 
dried rocks, apart from the men, enjoying pipes and sweet- 
meats, and children were swinging on ropes tied to the tree- 
branches. Many of the European residents of Jerusalem 
were strolling about with their little ones, and the newly- 
arrived English travellers watched the scene with evident 
interest and delight. " Shall we follow the course of the 
Kedron, and see how far it goes?" said my brother. I 
readily assented. So we left the noisy but picturesque 
crowd, and made our way down the valley under the olive- 
trees — now splashing through the murmuring musical 
waters, where they passed between the low stone wall 
boundaries of fruit and vegetable gardens — now rising high 
on to the sloping hill-flide, and returning to the stream 

u 



290 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

whenever there was a practicable path in it, or near it. 
The ragged rocks around were garlanded with green, thorny 
creeping plants, and within the niches and in the caverns 
of the limestone clifiTs masses of maiden-hair and other 
ferns appeared. It was very pleasant to observe the turn- 
ings and the windings of the new-born river, remembering 
that on the morning of the previous day only, it had sprung 
fresh and &ee from its source, to make itself a path in this 
valley, inviting all the little streamlets from the hills to 
flow with it In one place, about a mile fi-om En Eogel, it 
passed over broad, smooth slabs of time-polished red stone, 
then tumbled over a little ridge of rocks into a bed formed 
of smaU pebbles. Having gained renewed vigour by this 
fall, it rushed impetuously along a channel about five feet 
wide, made for it in the midst of a terraced olive-plantation. 
When thus confined, it was about one foot deep, but when 
freed from this artificial training, it spread itself over the 
wide rocky bed beyond, and only wetted our horses' fetlocks 
as we splashed through it Sometimes the brook does not 
flow farther than this olive-grove. At other times, when the 
winter rains are abundant, it travels down "Wady er 
Eaheb," — The Monk's Valley, to the Convent of Mar Saba, 
but its ancient destination was evidently the Dead Sea, 
into which it fell from the *' Wady Nar/ — The valley of 
fire. 

We followed the course of the stream for nearly an 
hour, and still, to our surprise, it flowed rapidly — ^but as 
the sun was declining we gave up the chase, and retraced 
our steps. We overtook our friends, who were still lingering 
by the source of the stream. A Moslem kawass of the 
British Consulate, said to us: "This is the blessing of 
blessings. Who has ever told of the Kedron flowing in 
Adar? it comes in the winter, and even early in spring, 
but who has heard of its waters rising at this time? Yet/' 
he added, "while we are rejoicing and giving thanks, there 
are men whose hearts are hardened by love of money, and 
who will be sorry to see these rivers of rain — for they have 
just bought up all the stores of wheat, thinking that the 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 291 

harvest would fail this year for lack of rain. May God 
destroy their house! Their hope was, that they might 
make themselves rich by the hunger of the poor." 

The setting sun warned us that we must hasten towards 
the city, before the closing of the gates, and we rode home 
with a large and cheerful company. Easter Sunday was 
unclouded, and the people of Jerusdem looked unusually 
animated, and in their gayest costumes. The Arabs of the 
Latin Church, as they met each other that morning, ex- 
changed the customary greetings: " Christ is risen I"* — '* He 
is risen indeed.'' During Easter week, rain and sunshine 
succeeded each other, and every now and then we could 
see a bright but transient rainbow spanning the hills. Mr. 
MeshuUam came to tell us that he and his family had been 
almost washed out of their little stone house in the valley 
of Urtas. A spring had suddenly burst up in their dining- 
room, another in the stables, and a torrent of water rushing 
down the valley had carried large pieces of rock and stone 
over the vegetable and fruit gardens, doing considerable 
injury to the crops. Solomon's Pools, which, only a few 
days before, had been the safe and favourite play-grounds 
of Meshullam's children, were all quite filled in less theui 
four hours. The little ones had been gathering cresses in 
the comers, at the bottom of the Pools, just before the 
gushing of the springs. 

On March 31st I was roused early, by the booming 6i 
cannons from the Tower of Hippicus, just opposite my 
window, and I heard that news of the birth of an heir to 
the Imperial throne of France had just arrived. 

Mons. B., the French Consul, called in person to an* 
nounce the happy event. Mr. Finn immediately caused 
preparations to be made for a soirie to celebrate it that 
very evening. 

I helped to deck the drawing-rooms with green garlands 
and wreaths of flowers, and about one hundred wax candles 
were fixed in the front vmidows. When they were lighted 
at sunset they produced a very pretty, and, for the East, 
quite unique effect, for Her Britannic Majesty's Consulate 

tr2 



?9% DOMESTTC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

was then next door to the Protestant church, and, unlike 
all other dwelling-houses in Jerusalem, it had an English 
faQade. A great many cressets were flaming on the roo^ 
and shone with fitful brightness on the group of kawasses 
and Abyssinian servants, who were feeding and fanning 
them. Fireworks were skilfully displayed in the courtyard, 
to the delight of hundreds of spectators. 

A large party assembled at the Consulate. A number of 
English travellers came, and many of the European resi- 
dents. In the course of the evening some Arab musicians 
were allowed to enter to play and sing for the especial en- 
tertainment of the strangers present Impromptu songs 
were sung in honour of the Imperial Prince. 

Invitations had, in the meantime, been issued to aU the 
members of the " corps diplomatique*' to a d^'e&ner a lafour^ 
ehette, to celebrate the birth of the Prince officially, at the 
French Consulate, on the following day, April 1st 

I went, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Finn and my 
brother. We were received by M. Barrifere, the Consul, 
and Mad"*®- L. {n4e Leseppes), the sister-ot^ then Con- 
sul-General for Syria, The Pasha and all the Consuls, in 
full uniform, were soon assembled, but no other ladies 
arrived. 

As this was rather a singular rSunion, I wiU describe it 
in detail After we had taken coflfee. His Excellency 
Kamiel Pasha conducted Mrs. Finn to the elegantly-spread 
table in the breakfast-room, and placed her on his left 
hand. I was at the same time led in, and seated on his 
right hand. Mad"*®- L, sat exactly opposite to the Pasha» 
and was supported by the English Consul and the Latin 
Patriarch. Then the Spanish Consul-General, and the 
other European Consuls, Abb4 Batisbon and several other 
distinguished French ecclesiastics, Le Comte de Fontenoy, 
and M. Gilbert, the Pasha's secretary, took their seats, 
making altogether eighteen. 

Turkish, French, Greek, and Italian culinary skiU had 
been employed in preparing the entertainment While 
we partook of it, an animated conversation was being 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 293 

carried on in French, with occasional Spanish, Turkish, 
Italian, and German expletives, but no English was 
spoken. The English Consul proposed the first toast, it 
was for Abdul Medjid. M. Barriire answered it, and 
the Latin Patriarch made a graceful comment. Then 
the Pasha rose, and, in florid Turkish, proposed the health 
of the Emperor*s son and heir. Mons. 6. interpreted this 
speech, and several other toasts followed. The alliance of 
Turkey, Rrance, and England was especially alluded to by 
the Pasha, and the toast was very heartily responded to. 

The gentlemen did not linger at the table, but led us 
immediately to the divan, where cigarettes and narghiles 
were distributed. When I saw that Mad"*®- L. took the 
former, I did not hesitate to take the latter. Coffee and 
French motto-bonbons were handed round, and there was 
no sign of breaking up the party for an hour or more. 
Hen, one after another, we left. The Pasha good-naturedly 
alluded to my visit, to Nablfts, and asked for the particulars 
of my journey to Jerusalem. 

On Saturday, April 5th, after having spent the day in 
the Mosque, with a laige party of English people, I re- 
turned to the Consulate, and was startled to hear that 
reliable news had just arrived, that the Eev. S. Lyde, an 
English subject, had accidentally caused the death of a 
deaf and dumb man, a Moslem, as he was on the point of 
leaving NablAs. The Moslems were revenging themselves 
on the Christian population, and the Protestants especially 
were the objects of their fury. Ody Azam's house, where 
we had lodged, had been attacked, as well as many others, 
and the Christian quarter was plundered. . 

A meeting of the Pasha and of some of the Consuls was 
immediately held. It was decided that an escort should 
convey the Eev. S. Lyde to Jerusalem, to take his trial 
there before the Turkish tribunal. My brother was chosen 
to fuMl this errand, and he went the next morning, long 
before sunrise, attended only by his kawass and groom. 
The Pasha and some of the Consuls had endeavoured to 
persuade him to have a body of soldiers with him, and 



294 DOMESTIC UFE IN PALESTINE. 

even tried to induce me to add my persuasions to theira 
But I instinctively felt, as he did, that he was moie safe 
alone, than if he went with an antagonistic and yet vamf- 
ficient forca Considerable anxiety was felt on his acconni^ 
for it was thought to be a hazardous enterprize. 

He arrived at Nablds before the excitement was sub- 
dued, and the people seemed to be taken by surprise, and 
calmed by his confidence in them. He found that Mr. 
Lyde had been kindly protected from the enraged populace 
by Mahmoud Bek Abdul Hady, in his new and beautiful 
house, which was -actually besieged by the people, and 
considerably injured, because the Governor refused to yield 
the offender up to them. Mr. Lyde, seeing the mischief that 
W61S being done, made his will, wrote a few letters, and then 
begged the Governor to let him go out to the mob, that 
they might be appeased by his death. He said: "K they 
cannot kill me, others will surely suffer." However, the 
Governor steadily persisted in protecting him, and detained 
him as his prisoner, saying : " Be at rest — I and my family, 
my servants and all my household, will risk our lives, 
rather than let yours be sewjrificed." The disappointed 
crowd gathered menacingly round the building, and threw 
stones, and fired at it for some time, and then went away 
to wreak their vengeance on the unoffending inhabitants of 
the Christian quarter. 

The following extract from a despatch addressed to Mr. 
Finn by my brother, will show the persistent cruelty of the 
fanatics : — 

*' I then went to the house of M. Zeller, where I found 
the lower rooms utterly pillaged, and the floors covered 
with broken china, leaves of books, maps, and papers of all 
descriptions, in fragments. Upstairs, I found the trunks, 
desks, boxes, a chest of drawers, &c., broken and destroyed. 
In facty the populace left nothing undone that could pos- 
sibly be effected towards the injury of the Christians. 
Fortunately, most of the Protestants were, and are still, 
away with the Bishop, otherwise they would certainly have 
been murdered." [This refers to Bishop Gobat, who was 



Domestic life ik Palestine. ^93 

making a tour through his diocese, and had passed through 
Nablfts a few days before the outbreak.] 

" Sam&an Kawarre, father of the Prussian agent, is killed. 
Hanna, servant of M. Zeller, is dangerously wounded, and 
despaired of. J. Tannoos and his wife, and several others, 
are badly wounded — besides eleven women, who are 
seriously injured by excessive fright," &c. 

On the 10th, about midday, I was attracted to the 
window by sounds of prancing horses and tum-tums, and 
saw Mr. Lyde, in the midst of a little party of Turkish 
irregular cavalry. He alighted at the Consulate, a pri- 
soner en parole. We all went out to meet and welcome 
him, and he gave us an account of the riots. He was 
very dejected. He said to me : " Mr. Bogers ran a greater 
risk on my account than my life is worth." 

On Sunday, the 13th, my brother arrived. The riots 
were quelled, but the Christians felt less confidence than 
ever in their Moslem neighbours. Most of the Protestants 
had come to Jerusalem, and the rest were at Nazareth. 
My brother had brought with him the jewelled head- 
dresses, and necklaces of gold coins and pearls, belonging 
to some of the Christian women of Nabliis, and gave them 
into my care. He had been earnestly entreated to do so by 
their owners, of whom some had taken flight, and feared to 
carry their valuables with them — and others, who remained 
at home, felt that no hiding-place was safe, while the town 
was so unsettled. 

Mahmoud Bek Abdul Hady, the Governor, had certainly 
protected the Christians, during the outbreak, as fiir as he 
possibly could. 

The indemnity of 55,000 piastres, adjudged to the in- 
jured Christians by the Porte, was not paid till two years 
afterwards. 

Mr. Lyde's trial, at Jerusalem, occupied a considerable 
time He was eventually condemned to pay a certain sum, 
as '^ blood money" to the heirs of the deceased man, who 
was a well-known and rather favourite character in NabKis. 
He was deaf and dumb, and slightly demnged in intellect. 



296 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

«nd consequently was superstiidously respected by the 
Arabs, and was yet^ at the same time, an object of their 
amusement He was a professed beggar, and yeiy impor- 
tunate. It appeared that he stopped Mr. Lyde's horse, near 
to the Nabliis gate, and, by signs and gestures, besought 
akns, which were refused. When Mr. Lyde tried to 
pass on, the deceased caught hold of the end of a loaded 
pistol, which was in the holster of the saddle, and unfor- 
tunately cocked. Mr. Lyde, knowing the danger, endea- 
voured to remove his hand. In doing so, the pistol went 
off, and the man was killed on the spot. Mr. Lyde was 
immediately surrounded, but he hastened to the Governor, 
and gave himseK up as prisoner. 

By the 15th of April, Jerusalem was thronged with 
people. The population was nearly doubled, by the influx 
of Bussian, Greek, and Armenian pilgrims, who had come 
to pass the Holy Week (old style) in the Holy City, to visit 
the neighbouring shrines which they reverence, and to 
attend the Easter services in the Church of the Se- 
pulchra Every day added to the number of these earnest 
devotees. Most of them are poor people, who have a 
sufficient simi of money to enable them to perform the 
pilgrimage. They generally return home quite penniliess, 
but happy in having realized the great object of all iheir 
struggles. There were, however, a few of the pilgrims who 
were distinguished by rank, ofiSce, or wealth, and who 
travelled with brilliant cavalcades. 

On the 24th of April I was roused at three o'clock by the 
booming of cannons from the citadel They flashed for an 
instant, every few minutes lighting up my room. Then there 
was silence and darkness, and I slept till seven, when ano- 
ther volley woke me, and I rose. Everyone was busy, for 
Eamiel Pasha had issued a proclamation, ordering '' all the 
people of Jerusalem to rejoice and be glad, and render 
thanks to God, and to illuminate their houses," in celebra- 
tion of the announcement of peace between Bussia and 
Turkey. 

The tinmen, and the dealers in *' lamps, old and new/' 



I 



DOMESTIC LEPE IN PALESTINE. 297 

and the makers of lanterns, reaped a golden harvest 
that day. Contrivances for illuminating engaged every- 
one. There was a great demand in the bazaars for 
gUt wire and colonred paper wherewith to encase wax 
candles. 

At noon, a busy and merry little party of English girls 
assembled at the Consulate. Paper roses and carnations 
grew rapidly beneath our fingers, and were fastened to the 
tree-branches and boughs with which Hadj Ali, the 
Egyptian groom, supplied us. He brought us a donkey- 
load — ^but he had made his selection without any sentiment, 
and as he thought carrot tops much more beautiful than 
olive branches or laurels, he gathered the former in abun- 
dance. However, they made bright green garlands, and 
had a pretty eflfect with our flowers, and no one could 
guess what they were. We had several visitors who 
were much amused while we were making our garden 
grow. The Spanish Consul-General, the French Consul, 
and some English travellers came. The Pasha's secre- 
taiy, who peeped in several times, said he would report 
to Eamiel Pasha how thoroughly we were obeying the 
orders of the day. The sun went down, and then by 
degrees the city was lighted up. Bings of light encircled 
the minarets and some of the domes. The Latin convent 
and Bishop Gobat'siiouse were brilliant with flambeaus and 
cressets, and a flood of light streamed through the garlanded 
windows of the consulate. Groups of white-sheeted women 
and crowds of men and boys carrying torches, and coloured 
paper lanterns, paraded the streets. About an hour after 
sunset, a sham fight took place under the direction of the 
Chief Commander of the troops. We went with a large 
party on to the roof of the ofiices to witness it. The tower 
of Hippicus, occupied by the regulars, was besieged by the 
artillery and irregular Turkish troops. The city trembled 
with the booming of cannons, and the volleys of fire, and 
the thrilling sound of musketry. 

Large bonfires, and iron baskets filled with pitch and tar, 
were lighted in conspicuous places, so as to make it seem 



298 DOMEsno life in Palestine. 

that some of the buildings had taken fire, and by their 
light we saw men scaling the walls, and to all appearance 
large masses of stone were hurled upon them. The cannons 
and battering rams were dragged along, and troops were 
rushing incessantly across the Castle Square. We heard 
the cries and shouts of the soldiers. At last the tower was 
taken, and victory proclaimed! The bugles, drums, fifes, 
and pipes, and tum-tums sounded. 

The whole aflfair was exceedingly well managed, and 
gave us a vivid idea of the actual sieges which Jerusalem 
has fix)m time to time suffered. 

In Scriptural and other historic records, descriptions, or 
notices, of no less than thirty-four distinct and successfiil 
sieges of the city, may be found. 

A large party assembled afterwards at the English Con- 
sulate, including the Fasha and his suite, the Commander 
of the Turkish troops, and several consuls and travellers. 
Among the latter was Lord Abercrombie, who had only 
arrived a few hours befora He, with his party, had crossed 
the desert on their way from Cairo, and had been detained 
in quarantine for a few days at Hebron. They came in sight 
of Jerusalem at about midday, when the flashing of guns 
and the booming of cannons so much alarmed them that 
they were on the point of retreating to the coast for safety, 
thinking that the city was in a state of insurrection. How- 
ever, when they were informed of the true cause of the 
firing, they eagerly proceeded on their way to join in the 
festivities. 

On Saturday, April 26th, or Holy Saturday,- the day pre- 
ceding the Greek Easter, I visited the Church of the Holy 
Sepulchre to witness, what is said to be, the miraculous 
kindling of the sacred fire over the tomb of Christ After 
traversing a few winding and windowless streets, stony 
and irregular, and then, almost deserted, we entered the 
busy bazaar which leads to the church. Here all was 
bustle and confusion, buyers and sellers paused to watch 
the concourse of people hastening to the festivals. We 
passed imder an archway, and found ourselves opposite the 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 299 

beautiful facade, with its double doorway, and sculptured 
friezes. It was about half-past eleven. The square court 
was lined with Turkish soldiers. The surrounding terraces 
and house-tops were covered with women shrouded in white 
sheets, and forming picturesque groups, sitting and standing 
in the dazzling sunlight. Crowds of Greeks and Arme- 
nians were entering in at the door. I was met there by 
Mens. L. the Cancelih'e of the French Consulate, and with 
diflSculty he lecf me into the church, and across the area 
of the Eotunda, where all was confusion and excitement. 
The pilgrims were running and leaping in all directions, 
uttering wild cries, and a monotonous sort of chaunt 
The noise was almost bewildering. With M. L.'s assistance 
I climbed up a steep platform, and then ascended a totter- 
ing staircase, which led to the Latin gallery on the north 
side of the Eotunda. One portion of it had been set apart 
for strangers, and I waq glad to be safely placed thera It 
was like a large opera-box, with heavy, but insecure rail- 
ings in front, close to which chairs were occupied by a 
Dutch Baroness and her daughter, a monk, and the cele- 
brated Abb^ Satisbon, an American lady, and a Scottish 
lady, to all of whom I had been previously introduced* 
There were several Arab women sedated on the matted floor 
in the back part of the box, smoking narghiles. Among 
them I recognised with pleasure the lady at whose house 
I had rested at Samleh. After I had exchanged greetings 
with her, I went forward and took the seat in front pre- 
pared for me, and looked down on to the strange scene below. 
In the centre of the extensive area of the Eotunda, rises 
the carved and decorated marble shrine over what is sup- 
posed to be the tomb of Christ. The top of it was on a 
level with us. Wild-looking men, with their clothes dis- 
ordered and their caps and tarbouches torn off — some with 
their long hair streaming, others with their shaven heads 
exposed, were performing a sort of a gallopade round it. 
They jumped, they climbed on each other's shoulders, they 
tossed their arms into the air, dancing a frantic dance, that 
would have suited some Indian festival. Sometimes this 



300 BOMESTIO LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

revelry was arrested for a moment, only to commence in 
another form 

The actors, whose numbers had been continnally aug- 
menting, stood in groups, in little circles, tossing their 
heads and arms backwards and forwards to a monotonous 
cry, which grew louder and louder every minute as the 
movements of heads and arms became more rapid. They 
kept this up tUl they looked mad with excitement, and 
they beat themselves and each other fearfully. Then they 
broke up the separate circles, and ran roimd and round the 
sepulchre again, with frightful rapidity, heedless of tramp- 
ling one another under foot. Here and there a priest was 
giving himself up to the firenzy of the people, and to gain 
a reputation for sanctity, he allowed MmseK to be most 
unceremoniously handled. His cap was torn ofiF, and he 
himself was lifted up and carried in triumph round and 
roxmd the shrine. The pilgrims believe that the fire would 
never come down on the tomb, unless bands of the faithful 
thus encircled it. 

In the meantime I had a pleasant chat with the baroness. 
She had been six months on the Nile. She said : " My 
husband is dead, and I have no son — my daughter and 
I are alone in the world. We travel ever3rwhere toge- 
ther and alone, we have seen every people of Europe." The 
Abb^ Eatisbon directed our attention to a change in the 
scenes going on below. The wild mob had been driven 
back to make room for the entrance of an orderly proces- 
sion formed of bishops and* priests in gorgeous robes. They 
carried silk and gold embroidered banners, and chaunted 
with solemnity and great emotion a beautiful litany, while 
they walked three times slowly roimd the sepulchre. A 
path had been made for them by a body of Turkish sol- 
diers, who lined the inner and outer circle of the Botunda. 
They behaved with praiseworthy impassiveness, and they 
actually looked like automata. But the impatient pilgrims 
came forward again, bursting wildly through the ranks. 
The procession of priests was broken, and soon disap- 
peared altogether. The soldiers retired, and the people 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 301 

recommenced their frantic dance round and round the 
sepulchre with renewed energy. The Arab worshippers 
shouted from time to time : — 

" Christ the Son of Ood died for us ! 
Christ the Son of Qod rose for us t 
This is the tomb of Christ our Saviour I 
Ood preserve the Sultan 1 
Christ the Son of Mary died for us t 
Christ the Son of Mary rose for us ! 
This is the tomb of Christ our Saviour 1 
God preserve the Sultan I 

All the galleries, and even the niches in the square 
colunms were now occupied by lookers-on. Kamiel Pasha 
and his suite were in a box of the Latin gallery imme- 
diately above us. The French Consul, my brother, and 
several English travellers were also present For about two 
hours the above scenes lasted Th6n I observed a break 
in the crowd exactly opposite to an oval aperture which 
looked into the inclosure of the sepulchre. A priest in 
bright yellow silk robes advanced towards it, and was wel- 
comed with wild cries. He stooped forward, and thrust his 
head and shoulders and one arm through the hole, quite 
blocking it up. In this awkward posture he remained 
for a long time, and allowed himself to be beaten sevei*ely 
by the people who clustered round him. There was a ter- 
rible struggle to try to gain a position commanding a view 
of this priest^ for he it was who would distribute the sacred 
flame. He had paid a large sum of money for the privilege 
of thus representing the patriarch, and gaining for the occa*^ 
sion the title of: " The bishop of the holy fire.'' Every one 
in the area had either a torch or a taper ready to be lighted. 
A pause of eager expectancy — a silence almost as exciting 
as the noise, was succeeded by a startling and tremendous 
shout, which shook the building to its foundatioa A voice 
from within the Sepulchre had proclaimed that the miracu- 
lous fire was kindled ! The bishop now drew forth his head 
from the hole, and held up a mass of fire, amid cries of 
thanksgiving and rejoicing from the multitude. In less 
than a nunute a hundred torches were burning brightly, 



802 DOIOSTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

and soon the light spread all round the Botunda. We 
looked down upon the waving fire-brands and flaming 
torches, held up by naked arms outstretched exultingly — . 
the men themselves could scarcely be seen through the sea 
of fire and smoke. At this juncture there appeared to be 
a very suspicious movement in the crowd. The Armenians 
and Greeks were evidently attacking each other angrily, 
and trying to extinguish each other's torches. One sect 
was jealous of the other. The sacred flame from heaven 
as they called it, had been distributed unequally, and it 
was said that the priest of the fire had conveyed it to one 
party before the other, instead of giving to them at the 
very same instant, according to the regular stipulations. 
This priority, real or pretended, was the pretext for a 
general fight Every hand was raised in defence or offence. 
Flaming torches were tossed about recklessly, and clubs, 
kourbages, and sticks were raised. The Turkish soldiers 
were recalled, but at first they only seemed to add to the 
general confusion. After about ten minutes' violent con- 
flict, the Armenians succeeded in driving the Greeks into 
their church, which is on the eastern side of the Botunda. 
The great brass gates were closed upon them, and for about 
five minutes there was comparative peace and sUenca 

The Pasha, with his suite, descended from the gallery 
above us, and was making his way across the area, when 
the Greeks suddenly burst out of their church, and, before 
His Excellency could pass, another contest arose, more 
dangerous and exciting than the first. 

Clubs and sticks were thrown down into the area to the 
Greeks, through the high windows looking from the terraced 
roof of their neighbouring convent. The Armenians were 
so well provided with such weapons, some of which were 
spiked, that it was supposed the outbreak was premeditated. 

Wild cries and heavy blows resounded on all sides, with- 
out intermission. The Pasha himself was roughly handled, 
and he lost some of his decorations in the scuffle. The 
(Commander of the Cavalry was thrown down, and several 
people high in authority were attacked by the infuriated 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 803 

mob. Large pieces of wood were hurled up against the 
galleries, where, to add to the confusion, most of the spec- 
tators were crying and screaming with fright. The door of 
our box was suddenly opened, and a number of women 
shrouded in white sheets were pushed in for safety, then 
the door was closed again. 

We who were in front, were in danger of falling into the 
area below, for the wooden railings were tottering and 
leaning outwards at an angle of nearly forty-five degrees. 
I had great difficulty in keeping the Arab women from 
pressing forward, and thus pushing us over. They all 
seemed panic-stricken, and were sobbing convulsively. The 
Dutch Saroness was distracted with fear, not for herself, 
but for her only daughter, who, however, was perfectly 
self-possessed and calm, and tried to inspire those around 
her with courage. The monk and Abb6 Eatisbon looked 
pale and terrified. The latter said to me : " It is not fear, 
Mademoiselle, but indignation that excites me." The soldiers 
were endeavouring to clear the church, and it was expected 
that they would receive orders to fire on the obstinate 
fanatics, who, not content with injuring each other, began 
attacking the building itself Pictures of saints and martyrs 
were destroyed by sharp-pointed sticks being thrust into 
them. The carved and gilt wooden vases, which orna- 
mented the tawdry, cage-like covering of the tomb, were 
deliberately aimed at and knocked down — ^and two priests, 
who had intrepidly climbed on to the top, to try to preserve 
the crystal and silver lamps and other valuables there, were 
pelted piteously. As soon as the ornaments were displaced 
they were picked up, and used as missUes wherewith to 
assault the galleries. Many a large piece glanced close to 
us, who were near the front, but happUy we escaped injury. 
The Scottish lady was so overcome with alarm that she 
feinted, and then at my urgent request the Arab women fell 
back as far as they could, to make room for her to recover 
herself, and to enable us to retreat a few inches from the 
railings in jfront of the box. The conflict became more and 
more furious, We saw terrible wounds inflicted, blood flowing 



S04l DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

from shaven heads, frightful gashes on uplifted faces, and 
people thrown down and trampled on. Screams, impreca- 
tions, and desperate prayers resounded. For more than a 
quarter of an hour this fierce fight lasted, then, by degrees, 
it abated, and the Turkish soldiers succeeded in driving 
out the chief of the combatants, not, however, without 
receiving some serious blows. When the place was partially 
cleared, we saw that the marble pavement of the Botimda 
was strewn with fragments of glass, sUver chains, bits of 
carving, broken tapers, torches, and tarbouches, and the 
entire surface shone with oil, which had streamed from the 
hundreds of lamps thrown down and crushed under foot 
We were hoping that our friends were all safe, when, to our 
relief, they appeared crossing the area with the Engli^ 
travellers who had been present. They all looked pale and 
anxious, for they understood better than we did the dangers 
which had threatened us. They had greatly feared that the 
woodwork of the building would take fire, when escape 
from the galleries would have been ahnost impossible. 
They approached to assure us of our safety, and begged 
that we would wait quietly till they could come for us. 
The French Consul and the Commander of the Cavalry 
paused just below our box. They seemed very much excited, 
the former said : " I pray you, ladies, do not attempt to stir 
yet." Some time elapsed before it was considered prudent 
to allow us to leave our retreat, for the fight was being 
carried on desperately in the court and streets outside the 
church. At last the French Consul, my brother, and several 
friends came for us, and we were led away. I found that 
the oil floating over the marble floor was at least a quarter 
of an inch deep. The Turkish soldiers still had posses- 
sion of the building. They had behaved with great mode- 
ration during the whole of the riot, and apparently did all 
they could to prevent bloodshed. They had quite cleared 
the outer court when we crossed it, and were standing all 
round it, with fixed bayonets. But the streets were obstructed 
by groups of quarrelsome people, and with difficulty the 
kawasses cleared a way for us. When we were safe at tiie 



DOMESTIC LITE IN PALESTINB. S05 

Consulate, my brother returned to the Sepulchre, to see what 
damage had been done. He took, without opposition, from 
the hands of an Armenian, a heavy stick, five feet long and 
three inches in diameter, and he examined a great number 
which were armed with spikes. 

The Pasha held a council immediately, and it was 
decided that the Greek and Armenian services should for 
the future be held at dififerent hours, so that such disgrace- 
ful and dangerous collisions in the church might be avoided. 
It was ascertained that very few deaths had occurred, but 
some serious injuries had been inflicted. I have conversed 
with many educated Greeks, both priests and laymen, on 
the nature of this ceremony, and I found that, without ex- 
ception, they were heartily ashamed of it Some of them 
plainly admitted that it was an imposture, others called it a 
pious fraud, but all agreed that it would not be advisable 
to disturb the faith of the mass of the people, who were 
thoroughly impressed by the belief that God HimseK 
descends, and with His glorious presence kindles the fire 
over the tomb, every year on Holy Saturday. One Greek 
priest, a kind and earnest man, said to me, privately : " If 
it were possible, which is rather doubtful, to destroy the 
wide-spread and deep-rooted reliance on the reality and 
genuineness of this miracle, we should do more harm than 
good, for we should at the same time inevitably shake 
the faith of thousands ; — ^they would doubt all things, 
even the existence of God; — ^they would abandon the 
holy Church, and be left without any religion to guide 
them." 

I could sympathise with him heartily, for his was a very 
difficult position. But I felt more strongly than ever, what 
a mistake it is, to try to support that which is believed to he 
the truths hy that which is known to he false. 

Unhappily, the argument used by that amiable but 
fettered priest is a very common one. Eeligion has been 
so encumbered with forms and ceremonies, that the cere- 
monies are by the mass of the people mistaken for or 
confounded with the essence of religion. 



306 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTIKE. 

Men fear to disturb them now, lest truth and etror should 
fall at the same time, as if they thought religion in its 
simplicity and purity could not stand alone. 

When will truth be fully trusted and be permitted to 
triumph ? When will people believe that truth is stronger 
and safer than trickery and wrong, and that there is always 
danger in teaching and supporting an error, but no danger 
in acknowledging one ? 

^ Ye BhaU know the truth, and the truth shall make you free." — /oftn 
TiU.82. 

" Clothe not the truth with Tanity, neither conceal the truth against 
your own knowledge." — Koran^ ch. ii. Salens Tranalatum, 

** The very eaaenoe of truth is plainnesB and brightneas." — MiUon. 

'* Qreat ia the truth and stronger than all things, it liyeth and conquereth 
for evermore, she is the strength, kingdpm, power and majesty of aU ages. 
Blessed be the Gk>d of Truth."— Zoro&a&eZ, 

Some people defended the celebration of the festival be- 
cause it was an ancient custom ; but, as Cyprian says — 

" Custom without truth ia but agedneas of error." 

Unfortunately there is another powerful motive for keep- 
ing up this solemn jugglery. Large sums of money are 
spent in Palestine every year by the pilgrims, who come from 
ail parts of Eussia, Greece, and Turkey, and the people 
of Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and Kazareth naturally regard 
Easter as their haivest-time. 

Priests, shopkeepers, relic manufacturers, householders, 
owners of camels, horses, and other beasts of burden, 
would all more or less feel it, if the annual pilgrimages 
were to cease ; and as the Holy Fire is the chief attraction, 
the temptation to encourage the delusion is very great. 

Is this strange ceremony a relic of the services of the 
Fire-worshippers of old ? There are two or three Moslem 
shrines which are said to be miraculously illumined on 
certain days, and I am told that as early as the 9th century 
the Syrian Christians believed that an angel of God was 
appointed to light the lamps over the tomb of Christ on 
every Easter-eve. 



CHAPTER XII. 

ABOUT an hour before the sun went down, on Holy 
Saturday, we rode out of the city, glad to breathe the 
fresh air after the fatigue and excitement of the morning. 
We passed out at the Y&fa Gate and went aU round Jeru- 
salem close to the walls. I saw a number of poor peasant 
girls coming out of the olive-grove opposite to the Damas-r 
cus Gate. They wore tattered white cotton veils and home- 
spun purple linen dresses. They were barefoot, but they all 
looked merry, and carried boughs of trees and flowers in 
their brown hands. One of the youngest had a branch of 
hawthorn with glossy green leaves and several bunches of 
white blossom on it. It was the first bit of " May " I had 
seen, and, weU pleased, I stopped my horse and asked the 
girl if she would give me a part of it. She looked up good- 
naturedly, and, seeing a rosebud fastened in my habit, she 
said: " Lady, if you will give me the flower which grows in 
your bosom you shall have my hawthorn blossom." So 
we made the exchange. 

On the 2d of May news reached us of serious skir- 
mishes between the rival factions in the district of Jenin. 
The little mud-built village called " Khubeiseh," which we 
passed through on our way to Kefr Kara, had been the 
scene of conflict, and many people whom we knew had 
been engaged in it. 

On the 5th, my brother started for H§,ifa, by way of 
Nabl&s and Jenin, and I was once more left with my kind 
friends at the Consulate, where I enjoyed leisure and ex- 
cellent opportunities for sketching, studying, and observing 
all that was going on around me. 

x2 



308 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

There was no more rain, and the sun was daily increas- 
ing in power. English travellers continued to arrive every 
few days, and I often had the pleasure of accompanying 
and guiding them in their " Walks about Jerusalem," and 
their excursions in the neighbourhood. 

Roses were abundant at this time. It was the season for 
making rose-water and conserves. The peasant women 
brought basket-loads of roses into town every morning. 
Often at sunrise these women might be seen pausing on 
their way by a streamlet to empty their baskets into the 
rippling water, literally making a bed of roses for the river. 
Perhaps they do this, as they say, only to wash their flowers 
and to make them keep fresh and look as if wet with dew, 
but / think it is more probable that they wish to make 
their roses heavy, for they sell them in the market by 
weight. 

On Wednesday, May 7th, a hot, oppressive sirocco wind 
prevailed. Early in the afternoon I rode out with little 
Skander Finn and his cousin L. We went down into the 
valley of Hinnom, where hawthorns, covered with pink 
and white blossom, scented the air. The olive-trees were in 
flower, and the fig-trees green with fresh leaves. We passed 
the Aceldema and reached En EogeL There was no water 
in the rocky river-bed ; however, it had not flowed in vain 
The reservoirs were filled and the parched earth revived. 
We went a little way down the valley, crossed the dry bed 
and dismounted. We climbed half-way up the hill on the 
left-hand side and reached a ledge or natural terrace in 
front of a steep clifi*, which L assured me was cavemed, 
though no signs of a cavern could be seen. The ledge was 
so overgrown with tall thistles that it was difficult to find 
a footing ; we beat these down and found the door which 
they concealed. The top of the door was only slightly 
above the level of the terrace, which sloped.abruptly down 
to it, like the entrance to an underground cellar, but with- 
out any steps. With the help of Hadj Ali and his stick, 
and by clinging to roots and weeds, we contrived to slide 
down and pass through the doorway, which I measured, 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINK 309 

and found it was four feet by seven, cut in the soKd rock. 
After a minute or two we became accustomed to the sudden 
darkness^ and could partially distinguish the objects around 
us. On the left side, just within the cavern, there was an 
immense pedestal, quite plain. We went down slipping and 
sliding, cautiously, one after th^ other, down deeper and 
deeper into the darkness, till we came to a column, about 
twelve feet in circumference, supporting a roof which ap- 
peared to me to be about twenty feet above us. The base 
of this column was far below the level of the door,' but as 
it was nearly opposite to it, it caught on one side a little 
reflected light, and there maiden-hair grew luxuriantly, but 
the other sides of the pillar were only clothed with pale 
mosses and drooping fungus assuming grotesque forms. I 
removed a mass of maiden-hair to examine the nature of 
the native rock of which the pillar was formed It was 
quite white, and crumbled easily beneath my touch. 

In the meantime L. and Skander were exploring the dis- 
tant recesses, and their spirit-like figures gliding about in 
the darkness below gave some idea of the depth and extent 
of the cavenL The floor, which was of loamy earth, con- 
tinued to slope downwards. There were three other massive 
columns ; the farthest one, I should think, must be about 
thirty feet high. My guides warned me not to foUow, for 
they had come to a large, though shallow, pool of water. 
The rain had streamed down the steep bank and had made 
for itself a smooth channel to the bottom of the cavern, 
carpeting the way with rich soil from the surface of the 
terrace above. Water was trickling slowly down the walls 
and from the roof. Bats, disturbed by our approach, blun- 
dered against us now and then, and the damp, cold, death- 
like atmosphere made us shiver. We climbed up again, 
and Hadj Ali helped us to reach the thistle-grown terrace 
in safety. We were gasping for a breath of fresh air, and 
rested for a minute or two blinking in the dazzling day- 
light and basking in the warm sunshine. 

Then we scrambled over rugged rocks and through 
thickets of thorns and thistles till we came to a large recess 



310 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

in a steep white cliffi It was like a room, entirely open on 
one side, about eleven feet in height, ten feet deep, and 
fourteen feet wide. It was, to all appearance, a natural 
Excavation which had been partially squared by human 
art. In some places the ceiling looked as if it had once 
been coated with rough cement. The white walls were 
rather damp and were garnished vdth maiden-hair of the 
finest kind I had ever seen, and many plants which love 
the shade were flourishing there. Out of every crevice some 
delicate leaf or tendril crept. This cave was no doubt 
formerly inhabited by human beings — kings, priests and 
prophets of old may have lodged here. 

Skander had climbed higher up the hill and now called 
to us> sajdng: "I have found a wonderful place up here, 
come and see." With difSculty we followed and found 
him stretched flat on his face, peering into a dark opening 
about one foot high and six feet broad, close to the ground, 
he said it was like a large fox-hola I could not possibly 
enter this cave, but I stooped and looked in and could see 
that there were some ancient sepulchres within ; I counted 
four. They were, I believe, cut in the solid rock, and were 
ornament^ with bold, efiective mouldings and bosses. 
This place seems to be worthy of careful exploration. The 
entrance is likely soon to be quite concealed by the stones 
apd dSyris falling from above, and the tangled masses of 
vegetation near it. There is no tradition connected with 
it, and it is on that account, perhaps, that it is so rarely 
pointed out to travellers. 

We mounted and rode homewards, looking towards the 
south-east corner of the Holy City. The sunlight was 
gleaming on the terraces just below it, and it tinged with 
an emerald lustre the fields of barley there. On the right, 
above En Eogel, the ruins of Siloam appeared, and we 
could just see Absalom's pillar. * As we rode round the 
base of Moimt Zion, Hadj Ali gathered a beautiful branch 

* It is this view which the lamented Mr. Seddon painted so faithftdlj' 
The picture is in the South Kensington Museum. 



!DOMBSTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 311 

of a pomegranate-tree, covered with bright blossoms, the 
first I had seen that year. 

We remembered that Eamadan, the month when the 
followers of Mohammed fast by day and feast by night, 
had commenced on the previous Sunday, so we hastened 
on, that Hadj Ali might prepare his evening meal and be 
ready to eat it, at the moment of the firing of the " mogarihy' 
the signal gun at simset — ^the sound so welcome to hunger- 
ing and thirsting Moslems. 

Poor Hadj Ali had not taken food or even smoked a 
pipe since sunrise. This fast, which lasts for thirty days, 
is observed with extraordinary fidelity by people of all 
classes.* 

On Thursday, May 28th, I was invited to visit the new 
schools for young Jewesses, established by Sir Moses 
Montefiora The morning was bright and dazzling. We 
passed the barracks and entered the street leading to the 
Armenian convent. The sun was almost vertical, and the 
polished stone pavement reflected back the heat and light 
The high walls of the houses on each side scarcely cast a 
line of shadow — only the little casement windows jutting 
out here and there, and the bright flowers which climbed 

* In the second chapter of the Eoxan, the rules for ohserying Bamadaa 
are given thus : — 

" true believers, a fast is ordained unto you as it was ordained tinto 
those before you, that ye may fear Qod. 

*' The month of Ramadan is the month of lasting in which the Koran 
was sent down from heaven, a direction unto men. and declarations of 
direction and the distinction between good and eviL Therefore let him 
among you who shall be dwelling at home in this month, fast the 8€m£ 
monM. ; but he who shaU be sick or on a journey shall fast the like number 
of other days. Qod would make this an ease unto you, that ye may fulfil 
the number of days aod glorify Qod for that He hath directed you and 
that ye may give thanks. .... 

'' It is lawful for you to eat and drink at night until ye can plainly 
distinguish a whUe thread from a hlausk thread by the daybreak, then keep 
-•he fast until sunset" 

According to Moslem Divines, there are three degrees of fasting. The 
first and second are strictly material ; the third is the fasting of the heart 
from worldly cares, and the restraint of the thoughts, which must be 
concentrated on Qod. 



312 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

through the trellis-work, or huBg from the roofs, traced 
fantastic and delicate shadows on the ground. Not a breath 
of air was stirring. It was midday, and no one was to be 
seen in the broad, unsheltered, silent street, where even the 
dogs were sleeping, as if overcome by the heat and light. 
We turned to the left and passed a walled-up archway, 
once the entrance to an ancient mosque. We skirted the 
back of the Armenian convent and thus reached the Jewish 
quarter, and were very soon knocking at the school-house 
door, over which there was a well-engraved Hebrew 
inscription. 

While we waited for admittance, I looked up at the 
windows. Two were square, unsheltered openings. A third 
jutted far out from the wall, and through its quaint and 
fanciful wooden lattice we could see bright and rare flowers. 
The fourth was a large square Oriel window, supported by 
a stone bracket, and protected by an iron balcony. A 
crowd of happy-looking children were peeping from it. 
One dark-eyed little creature had a red cloth tarbouche on 
the back of her head, and a rose in her black hair. The 
others wore soft muslin kerchiefs of various colours, tied 
tastefully on their heads. 

We entered the door, crossed a small court, and were 
led up an open staircase, on to a terrace, the low, broad 
walls of which were converted into a garden. Flower-pots 
had been embedded in the masonry, at regular distances, 
along the top of the parapets. Thus a sort of floral battle* 
ment was formed, and produced an excellent eflect, for 
the plants were kept nearly all of the same size and height 
The rose-bushes, pinks, and cloves, in full flower, con- 
trasted well with the dark-leaved myrtle, the Cape jas- 
mine, and the white walls. 

We were politely received in this court by a Spanish 
Jewess, who conducted us into a light, cheerful room, con- 
taining animated groups of girls, varying in age from seven 
to fourteen, perhaps. I counted thirty-one children, but 
the full number usually assembled there was thirty-five. 

Eight forms and a double row of desks gave quite a 



^^-i 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 313 

European character to the room, and the raised pulpit-like 
seat of the teacher indicated order and authority. 

The girls were nearly all engaged at needlework, and 
our guide exhibited to us, with evident pride and pleasure, 
a considerable stock of wearing apparel, the result of one 
week's work in that room. The simple garments were very 
nicely made, considering that most of the little workers 
did not know how to sew six or seven months before. The 
mistress could not tell us what was done with the work, 
when finished, as it passed from her hands at the end of 
each week. The children looked busy and bright. Some 
of them were singularly beautiful. One tall and stately 
girl, of about fourteen, was acting the part of monitor, and 
she answered our questions, in Arabic, with the utmost 
modesty and self-possession, and glided among her little 
pupils with native grace and dignity. All these children 
were natives of Palestine, they spoke Arabic, and wore 
the Arab costumei Their heads were, without exception, 
covered either with muslin kerchiefs, or with the simple 
red tarbouche. 

The windows of this room were large, and thrown wide 
open. They looked eastward, and commanded views of 
the whole extent of Olivet, and the misty Moab mountains 
far away. The midday breeze sprang up suddenly, and 
slightly cooled the fiery air. 

After lingering for a short time, to enjoy the prospect, we 
were led to another room, equally large, light, and airy. 
Here we found about thirty children, under the care of 
two female teachers. One tiny little creature was learning 
a Hebrew lesson, and carefully spelling words of two 
letters. Another child of seven or eight was reading, with 
very little hesitation, some Scripture history. The other 
children were seated comfortably, and with perfect ease 
and freedom, yet without disorder, upon mats, or in the 
deep, carpeted window-seat. There I recognised the happy 
faces which I had seen from the street below. They looked 
up at me, smiling, as much as to say : " We know you again 
-^we saw you waiting at the door.*' 



314 DOMESTIC LIFS IN PALESTIKE. 

They were all at needlework, and I could not help 
observing the extreme deUcacy and beauty of their hands. 
K, as it is said, this is a distinguishing feature of noble 
birth, then these young daughters of Israel are of princely 
race. Some of the little hands were stained with henna, 
and almost all the nails were tinted, and looked like the 
delicate, rose-coloured shells we find on the sands on 
English shores. 

The children were uniformly neat and clean, and there 
was a picturesque variety of costume there, that struck us 
pleasantly, contrasting with our recollections of the ugly 
uniforms in some of our public schools at home and 
abroad. As we were retiring, a shy little creature sum- 
moned up courage to give me the rose from her hair, and 
then she peeped at me slyly between her tapering fingers. 

These two rooms were set apart expressly for the children 
of parents belonging to the Sephardim congregation, con- 
sisting of the Spanish or Portuguese* Jews settled in 
Jerusalem. 

We were now led downstairs again to the open court, 
which we crossed, and, after ascending another stairway, 
we found ourselves in the school of the Ashekenazi con- 
gregation, formed of German, Eussian, and Polish Jews. 
Here there were fifteen children, and they all seemed 
to be under seven years of age. They were much more 
fair, though less beautiful, than those in the other rooms. 
They were sitting, very much at their ease, perched up on 
the sloping desks, with their little feet resting on the 
forms. How thoughtful and kind it was to allow them 
this freedom during the hot weather I There was not a 
sign of fatigue, or any expression of rebellion against 
restraint, in any of the young faces round us. There was 
activity of mind and rest of body, in a pure air. 

The Jews of Jerusalem are especially careful not to 
allow their children to associate with Christians or Mos- 
lems ; and they will not suffer them to stray away from 
home, or play in the streets, for fear they should learn bad 
habits, or be constrained or induced to be baptized into a- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE? 315 

Christian Church. Consequently, the little ones were con- 
fined nearly all day in the close, ill- ventilated, small rooms 
of the Jewish quarter, until this school was established. 
Here they assembled early in the morning, and, taking 
proper hours for rest, recreation, and for meals, returned 
home at sunset. Already a great improvement was ob- 
served in their appearance; they looked more healthy, and 
their lives were happier. 

A little girl of five years of age, with pink cheeks, blue 
eyes, and hair almost white, was reading aloud from some 
Hebrew volume, and was evidently interested by it I 
cautiously inquired whether she knew by heart aU that 
fell so fluently from her lips. I was assured that I was 
listening to genuine reading. 

We went downstairs to the second German room, where 
most of the girls were between thirteen and fifteen years of 
age, and the rest younger. We heard two of the eldest 
read, with emphasis, several pages from the life of Moses — 
a book written expressly for the use of women and children. 
It is a paraphrase of the Bible history of Moses, in a 
curious, harsh dialect, being a compound of Hebrew and 
German. It is printed in Hebrew characters, and embel- 
lished with quaint and curious woodcuts, in the style of the 
followers of Albert Dlirer. 

In these two rooms fifty-five pupils generally muster. 

The housekeeper, who had guided us from room to room, 
then led us to her own, and exhibited some shirts, which 
she and the elder pupils had been making to order. They 
were stitched and hem-stitched, and neatly finished off. 
She seemed delighted with our approval and praise ; for 
this shirt-making was quite a new accomplishment, as the 
Jews of the East wear much more simple under-garments 
than these. 

We took leave of her, and I returned to the Consulate, 
very tired. My friends went on to the Eothschild schools, 
of which they afterwards gave me a very favourable report 

When I was in Jerusalem, in 1859, I made inquiries 
about these schools, especially the one established by Sir 



816 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

M. Montefiore, intending to visit it again. To my surprise 
and regret, I was told that it no longer existed; and I 
conld not obtain any satisfewjtory cuscount of it, or under- 
stand why it was broken up. I suppose that Oriental 
indifference to female education is the chief cause. 

On the 13th of May, Mrs. Finn, in behalf of the " Jeru- 
salem Agricultural Association," purchased a portion of thfe 
beautiful valley of Urtas. I witnessed the making and 
concluding of the bargain. Ten of the fiercest and wildest- 
looking Arabs I had seen were assembled in the oflSce of 
the Consulate, with their chie^ a tall, powerful man, called 
Sheik Saph, whose family, local tradition says, has for 
ages been distinguished for the height and strength of 
its men.* 

Mrs. Finn came forward, and stood in the midst of the 
group of men, and said : " O Sheik, do you agree to sell ? " 
and Sheik Saph answered : " I agree to sell, my lady ; 
do you agree to buy ? " and Mrs. Finn replied : " I buy, O 
Sheik." Then the purchase-deed, which had been already 
prepared, was read over, signed, and sealed ; and one 
hundred and fifty sovereigns were counted slowly into the 
hands of the Sheik. He received the gold with great 
gravity and seeming indifference ; but his men looked on 
eagerly, with hawk-like eyes. After this, about a hundred 
coins, of small value, were thrown on the ofl&ce-floor, ac- 
cording to custom, and were eagerly scrambled for by 
all present Thus the exact sum paid for the ground 
could not be ascertained. This method of selling any- 
thing, for a counted and an uncounted sum, is called 
" a sale by the broken group." When this precaution is 
neglected, in dealing with Arab tribes, a purchaser may 
be obliged to yield up property to its original' owner at 
any moment, for the amount of the purchase money. 

Sheik Saph and his two chief followers were invited 
into the drawing-room to take coffee. They made strong 

* This is rather curioas in connexion with 2 Sam. xxL 18 : — "Then 
Sibbechai the Hushathite slew Saph, which was of the sons of the giant." ' 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 317 

> 

professions and promises of faith and good-will towards 
their " nohle lady, Mrs. Finn," saying they would protect 
the property at the risk of their lives, and as if it were 
still their own. They went away evidently qidte satisfied 
with the transaction. 

On the 15th, Mr. and Mrs. Finn went to Urtas, to stay 
there for a few days, for change of air, and to superintend 
the arrangements for inclosing and cultivating the recently 
purchased land. I was invited to spend a day with them, 
in company with $in English traveller, Mr. W., and Skander 
Finn. We started from the Consulate at sunrise, and rode 
quickly across the plain of Eephaim to Eachel's Sepulchre, 
and over the hills by Bethlehem. A well-mounted kawass 
led the way, and a mule carrying Debihu, the Abys- 
sinian servant, and a tent, followed. We reached the 
pleasant valley in about two hours. It looked to me more 
beautiful than ever, with its rippling streams, its flourish- 
ing fruit-trees and rose-bushes covered with flowers. 

We found our friends waiting for us, seated at the wide 
entrance of a dry cave, in a white limestone rock, just 
above the new garden-ground. We went together up to 
Mr. Meshullam's cottage. His wife showed me a large 
sieve fall of fine roses, which had been gathered before 
sunrise. We breakfasted in the rose-scented room, and 
then rested for a short time on the cushioned stone divan, 
under a large fig-tree, the thickly growing leasees of which 
now afforded perfect shelter. 

A ride was proposed, and we mounted. Mr. Finn led 
the way in a south-westerly direction, over a steep and 
pathless hill, which looked as if it had never been tra- 
versed except by wild goats and conies. When we com- 
menced descending, we found it necessary to dismount ; 
and, one after another, we led our horses, slipping and 
sliding, over large smooth inclined slabs of rock and loose 
stones, till we reached a broad level platform, where rich 
earth had rested, and formed a bed for wild flowers. Here 
we paused for those of our party who had prudently taken 
an easier route round the base of the hilL They presently 



318 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

overtook us, and we were reminded that Amos, the herds- 
man and prophet, who said : " Shall horses run upon the 
rockf" dwelt not far from here, and very likely he had 
often seen them stumbling or stepping cautiously over 
such hills as this. We rode all together up a narrow wind- 
ing valley, where wild thyme and heath, and blue, yeUow, 
red, and white salvias, grew abundantly among the grey 
rocks, which were half-covered with orange-coloured lichen^ 
The air waa warm and fragrant 

At the head of the valley there was a rounded hiU^ 
crowned by a low clump of trees, which sheltered a white 
tent. The northern and western slopes were green with 
bearded barley. This lovely patch of cultivated land con- 
trasted strangely with the wild hills around, where there 
was not any sign of human industry. Mr. Meshullam 
enjoyed our surprise, and then explained how he had 
cleared the land and sown it, and made a little garden 
on the top of the lull. The soil was very rich in quality^ 
but rather thinly spread over the surface of the rock* 

There were higher hills rising beyond, and sheltering 
this retreat. We ascended gradually, till we reached the 

* This ground has been greatly improyed since, and when I visited it in 
1859, I found that Peter, one of Mr. Meshullam's younger sons, a brave 
and enterprising young man, had, on his return from service in the Crimea, 
built a little stone house there, and inclosed a lai^ge portion of cleared 
land. He oftei^ lived on the hill for weeks together, his only companions 
being two or three native peasants, and his favourite dog, and a few other 
domestic animals. He adopted the Bedouin costume, and lived quite like 
an Arab, except during his occasional visits to Jerusalem and other towns. 
He has lived from childhood in Palestine, and his physical strength, 
quickness of action, and foresight have endeared him to the Arabs. He is 
known and respected by most of the Sheiks in the district. He has more 
, than once been requested to become the chief- of a small tribe. He told 
xne he would have accepted the office gladly, if he could have done so 
without becoming a Mohammedan. He was dreaded by the doers of mis- 
chief for miles around. He found the neighbourhood infested with wild 
boars, jackals, foxes, and other beasts of prey. He killed a great number, 
and very often succeeded in shooting hawks and eagles. When H.R.H. 
Prince Alfred was in Palestine, in the spring of 1859, Mr. Peter Meshullam 
was one of his most constant companions on the inland journey from 
Jerusalem to Tiberias, andthence to Hdifa^ where the Euryalu9 was at 
anchor. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 319 

highest point in the range, which commanded a wide 
prospect in every direction. 

Looking eastward, I at once recognised the Dead Sea, 
calm and blue, and the long line of the Moab mountains 
beyond ; but the rest of the view all round was to me, 
as well as to Mr. W., only a maze of white, grey, and 
brown hUls, and dark valleys chequered with cloud shadows, 
without any roads or landmarks. 

Mr. Finn read the landscape round for us, and its 
features soon grew familiar to me. We were looking east- 
ward, and he said : " That dark ravine to the right, in the 
range of rocks on this side of the Dead Sea, is the Valley 
of the Wilderness of Engeddi, where David * dwelt in 
strongholds ' during his exile. That peak, like an ex- 
tinct volcano, which rises above the surrounding hills, is 
the Frank Mountain, called by the Arabs, Jebel Fureedus, 
i e. the Lesser Paradise Mount. A little way to the right 
of it, on that terraced and rounded hill, are the ruins of 
Tekoa, where Amos guarded flocks and herds, and gathered 
wild figs, in the days of Uzziah, King of Judah, two years 
before the earthquake. We will go there some day, and 
look for a wise woman." Turning towards the porth-east, 
he said : " Do you notice a depression in that long range ? 
Look a little to the left of it, and you will distinguish the 
leaden roof of the Convent of Bethlehem, and then you 
can make out the surrounding buildings. Farther north is 
Mount Olivet ; — and now that a black cloud is passing over 
Jerusalem, you can plainly see two tall minai'ets rising 
white and bright out of the city." 

Many of the hills, especially in the south and east, were 
crowned with ruins, and showed signs of former cultiva- 
tion, but now they were deserted. The stone walls of the 
ancient terrjwjes were broken down, and the earth washed 
away, and where vines and fig-trees once grew, thorns and 
thistles had sprung up — ^the whole land truly is made 
silent and desolate. We were overlooking a large portion 
of the division of the tribe of Judah. See Jer. vii. 34, — 
" I will cause to cease from the cities of Judah the voice 



320 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINB. 

of mirth, and the voice of gladness, the voice of the bride- 
groom, and the voice of the bride : for the land shall be 
desolate.'' A string of camels and a few horsemen were 
hastening across the country, and now and then we caught 
sight of them. Here and there a few black tents were 
pitched, and flocks were feeding, but there was nothing 
else to give life to the landscape. 

The wind, which had been gradually rising, now blew 
so violently, that we could scarcely stand against it. The 
cloud which had overshadowed Jerusalem was whirled far 
away, and unless we had known exactly where to look, 
and what to look for, we could not possibly have distin- 
guished the hill on which the city stands, from the rocky 
hills which encircle it We were reminded of the words 
of Carlyle : — " The eye only sees that which it brings with 
it the power of seeing." We rode down into the vaUey 
for shelter, but we were presently tempted to ascend the 
opposite hill, for we saw some square black tents among 
the low trees and bushes. We rode up to the encampment 
and dismounted, and were soon surrounded by a group of 
dusky Arabs. They had cultivated a little patch of ground 
with barley and beans, and a few wild olive-trees grew at 
the base of the hill. Their half-naked little children were 
playing with the goats, jumping from rock to rock, and 
rolling on the ground, the elder ones were gathering wood 
for the fire. The women were attending to a cauldron of 
rice, which was suspended gipsy-fashion over a wood fire 
in the open air. They clustered round Mrs. Finn and me, 
examining us with curiosity, and especially wondering at 
our gloves and boots. They all looked rather languid and 
fatigued — ^the effect probably of the daily fasting, for they 
were very rigid Moslems of Bethlehem origin. We asked 
them how long they intended to remain there? They 
replied : " We shall remain here till Bamadan is past." 

From the top of the lull, the flash of the " mogarib," or 
sunset gun from the citadel at Jerusalem could be seen, 
and partly on that account, they had chosen the spot for 
their encampment. Besides this attraction. th^re was water 



BOMESTIO LIFE IN PALESTINS. 321 

near^ and pasture for their flocks, and dwarf oak-trees, and 
resinous shrubs and thorns which they cut down for fdeL 
The gum cistus flourished there, and was covered with 
wide-open, delicate blossoms, white, pink, and lilac, which 
fell off when the flowers were gathered, and fluttered away 
in the breeze like butterflies. 

We remounted, and went by another route, towards 
Urtas, making our way along narrow wadys, and crossing 
ridges, where tall hollyhocks and the hibiscus abounded. 
Presently we came to a hill on which there were extensive 
and interesting ruins. We dismounted and scrambled up 
among rocks, hewn stones, and thistles, and thorn-bushes, 
which grew on the ancient terraces. When we reached the 
plateau on the top of the hill, Mr. Finn, who had pre- 
viously explored the place, pointed out to us the foundation 
of a very large building, divided into compartments. The 
walls had been broken down, but in some parts they stood 
four feet high. They were built of very large, well-bevelled 
blocks of stone, not joined together with mortar, but the 
interstices were filled up with finely crushed stones. The 
ground was strewn with tesserae about three-quarters of 
an inch square, with which all the inclosed spaces had 
evidently been paved. 

From the style of the masonry and the general outline, 
Mr. Finn judged that this was a good example of Jewish 
workmanship of an early period, and as ancient as any 
existing in the country. 

The buildings must have covered a large space, and were 
apparently all connected with the central and principal ona 

The Arabs call this ruin the ''Bar el Bendt,'' t,e. the 
house or "Betreat of girls/' but they have no tale to tell 
about it. There is no historical notice or tradition of any 
Christian convent having existed here at any time ; and 
there is not the slightest indication of Christian art in the 
general ground-plan. 

The great bevelled stones which are scattered all over the 
hill, and rest in heaps in the valley below as if thrown 
down by an earthquake, are exactly like the stones of 



\ 



322 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

which Solomon's Pools, and other ancient works are fonnei 
Mr. Finn suggested that this was possibly one of the places 
of which Solomon spoke when he said : " I made me great 
works, I builded me houses," and the singular traditionary 
name "Dar el Ben&t,*' which has clung to it, may signify 
that this was an establishment connected with Solomon's 
hareem, which, it is said, contained " seven hundred wives, 
and three hundred concubines." 

I can imagine the time when the now fallen walls 
were standing, and inclosing cool chambers, columned 
corridors, terraces, courts, fountains, and gardens of citrons 
and roses — when the hUl-sides were covered with vines, 
and the valley below was well watered, and brought 
forth all kinds of goodly firuits and fragrant spices. 
Gathered together there, I see in fancy, " virgins without 
number" agile and graceful mountaineers from the Lebanon, 
proud and stately daughters of Jerusalem, sweet, shy girls 
fix)m the plains of Sharon, and the fairest of the fair 
maidens of Shunem, contrasting with the dark loveliness 
of the melancholy young African exiles, who wore " the 
shadow'd livery of the bumish'd sun,'* and gloried in the 
tints he made them wear. 

Guarded by " valiant men of Israel," and surrounded by 
handmaidens and slaves, they were nursed here in luxury 
and splendour, decked with ornaments of gold and silver 
and precious stones, clothed with raiments of fine linen," and 
silk and embroidered work, anointed with oil and per- 
fumed with sweet odours. Every art was employed that 
could add a new charm to beauty. I can hear their songs 
of rejoicing when the winter rains passed away, and the 
flowers appeared on the earth. I can see them early in 
the morning in the vineyards, or on the stairs cut in the 
rock on the hUl-side, going down into the garden of nuts, 
to see the fruits of the valley, to see whether the vine 
flourished, and the pomegranate budded — and to this day, 
at every marriage festival in the country, their wild, pic- 
turesque, and passionate love-songs are echoed in a lan- 
guage very nearly allied to their own. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 823 

On this subject I hope on some future occasion to speak 
more fully, in some notes on the life and times of Solomon, 
and his Song of Songs. We lingered a long time amoqg 
the ruins. I picked up a handful of tesserae, and then 
went down to the valley. We found traces here and there 
of a rocky staircase, the joint work of nature and art. 

At the base of the hill, wild pomegranates and the 
arbutus grew. Just as we were mounting I saw on the 
top of a seemingly inaccessible heap of rocks and hewn 
stones a very fine honeysuckle. Mr. W. determined to 
gather it for us. He leaped across the deep dry bed of the 
winter torrent, and climbed over the bushes tod rocks, and 
soon returned in triumph with such a large, bright trophy 
of pink hollyhocks, at least five feet high, and long trailing 
branches of the honeysuckle, that he frightened aU the 
horses as he approached. We rode on laden with flowers. 
The honeysuckle smelt very sweet Its blossoms were 
large, and of a pale yellow colour, shaded in with white 
and pink. We made our way quickly to Urtas, and 
after dinner we sat for a short time under the fig-tree, 
The peasants came down from the ancient village above, 
to look at us, and we took the opportunity of putting some 
of them into our sketch-books. Then we mounted, and had 
a delightful ride back to Jerusalem. It was long past 
sunset when we reached the gates, but the keeper of the 
key had been detained to admit us. 

On the 24fth of May, the birthday of our beloved Queen 
was celebrated at H.B.M. Consulata At an early hour the 
British flag was saluted from the citadel. Visitors began 
to flock to the house, and were received by Mr. and Mrs. 
Finn, who had returned from Urtas the day before. I had 
never seen, even in the East, such a picturesque and mixed 
assembly gathered together in one room. There were the 
Consuls in full uniform, decked with ribbons, and stars and 
foreign orders, attended by their cancellieri, side by side 
with the Protestant missionaries in their sombre dresses, 
the Latin Patriarch, with the Abb^ Eatisbon, and a large 
party of Franciscan and Benedictine monks. Then came 

y2 



324 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTIKE. 

the chief dignitaries of the Armenian, Greek, Syrian, 
and Coptic Churches in their flowing robes — ^learned 
Babbis in their long straight gabardines, and dark turbans 
— zealous Jews from Safed, Hebron, and Tiberias, in 
varied Oriental costume, mingling with groups of those 
of their nation who had embraced the Christian religion, 
and adopted the European dress. 

Ody Azam, and several other refugees from Nablfts were 
to be seen. CoflFee and pipes, sherbets and sweets, were 
handed round by kawasses and black servants, aU equipped 
in new clothes for the occasion. 

Every one looked bright, cheerful, and friendly ; compli- 
ments and greetings were exchanged, and blessings pro- 
nounced on our Queen and country in many tongues. 

A little before midday, his Excellency Kamiel Pasha 
came with M. Gilbert, and the commander, and the chief 
surgeon of the Turkish troops, followed by a number of 
EflFendis, most of whom I had met previously. Several of 
them reminded me of the day on which they had eaten 
can&fi with me at Nablfts. 

The Pasha and his suite gracefiiUy excused themselves 
from taking any refreshments, and expressed a regret that 
such a f§te day had fallen in the month of Eamadan. 
Eamadan is a moveable fast, and occurs in turn at every 
season of the year. - 

Little Constance Finn took pity on the Pasha, and, much 
to his amusement, filled the pockets of his glittering uni- 
form with bonbons, teUinghim to eat them directly after 
sunset. 

Ten Greeks, and as many Jews, with several Moslem 
and Christian merchants, were at the lower end of the room 
while his Excellency was present. In the afternoon the 
less ceremonious visits were paid, and in the evening the 
company was almost exclusively British, and " God save 
the Queen " was sung with loving loyalty and enthusiasm 
at the Consulate on Mount Zion. 

Thus the spring-time passed pleasantly. Day after day 
my attention and my interest had been excited by scenes 



DOMESTIC UFE IN PALESTINE. 325 

and incidents wMcli vividly illustrated the treasured 
records of the past, and threw new light for me on Hebrew 
chronicle and Gospel story. 

I had seen and entered into the spirit of human life in 
all its progressive stages. I had found shelter in the tents 
of lawless wanderers, and claimed sisterhood with Bedouin 
girls. I had lingered among more peaceful tribes, who 
dwell in patriarchal simplicity in stationary tents, sur- 
rounded by flocks and herds. I had lodged with the 
fellahin, in their rude villages of mud and stone, en- 
circled by orchards, gardens, fields of grain and pasture 
land, and had associated with the townspeople, the great 
men, the law-makers and the governors of the land In 
the meantime I had occasionally enjoyed the society of 
some of the most highly cultivated and noble representa- 
tives of the civilized nations of Europe. I could find some 
meeting-point of sympathy with all, and I truly felt that 
" One touch of nature makes the whole world kin." 

My desire to make my friends in England share my 
pleasures, and to enable them to see, as far as possible, a 
true reflex of all that I saw, led me to look carefully 
and earnestly on all things. I seemed to possess unusual 
strength and power of resisting fatigue, and acquired habits 
of ceaseless and minute observation. My pen and pencil 
were almost always in use. Friendly voices often said: 
*' You are working too hard, you do not take sufficient 
rest ; " or : " Unless you work with less intensity you will 
suffer sooner or later. In this coimtry, at this season, it is 
absolutely necessary to have a little sleep or perfect repose 
at midday." 

I did not take warning, and at last sleepless nights came 
and were followed by weary days and loss of appetite, and 
my almost unnaturally excited and over-taxed strength 
suddenly gave way. I remember one hot night, after in 
vain trying to sleep, I rose, and sat in one of the eastern 
windows of the Consulate on Mount Zion, ^.nd watched 
for the rising of the sun over the Mount of Olives. 

I waited for a long time, before there was any change in 



326 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINIS. 

the cool grey sky, or any colours on the dusky earth. Every- 
thing was as still as death. Presently there was a pale, 
golden tinge in the east, and the dark mountains of Moab 
grew dim and shadowy in misty light, the brightness rose 
tip into the heavens, which suddenly became orange, blue, 
and rose-coloured. The taU, date palm-trees, so black and 
so motionless a moment before, now stirred their green 
fronds gently, and the delicate yellow grasses on the house- 
tops and on the terraces quivered and shook as if just 
awakened out of sleep, and birds fluttered from their nests 
chirping and twittering in chorus, but it was some time 
before the sun appeared above Mount Olivet. That was on 
the 26th of May. Afterwards I became weaker, and weaker, 
taking no note of time, sometimes riding out very gently 
into an olive-grove to rest under the trees, while I idly 
watched the children at their play, or the flickering shadows 
of wide-winged birds, or the busy insects, creeping in and 
out among the stones and the wild flowers. But there were 
days when I could not rise from my bed, and sometimes I 
thought I should die there. For two or three days I was 
quite deaf through extreme weakness. The late Dr. Mac- 
goWan was um-emitting in his attention, and I never shaU 
forget the kindness of my nurses, of whom Mrs. Finn was 
the chief On the 1 8th of June, the Armenian nurse, Emessa, 
came to my bedside, and said gently, in Arabic : " Be glad 
and rejoice, for now you will be well quickly. The Consul 
has come, God be praised." 

From that time I began to recover, and the next day I 
rode up with my brother to Mr. Graham's little tower on 
Mount Olivet, and took up my abode there for a few weeks. 
It is a genuine Arab structure. On the ground-floor were 
stables and a kitchen; and a vaulted chamber above, 
with a broad window in a deep recess, served as the 
sitting-room. A few stone steps lead to the flat roof, which 
forms a pleasant terrace, and is protected by a low wall, as 
are most of these flat roofs, and as they must have been 
anciently, in obedience to the law : " When thou huildest a 
new house, then thou shaU make a battlementfor thy roof, that 



^ DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 327 

thou brtnff not blood upon thine house, if any rnan fall from 
thence,'* — ^Deut. xxii. 8. From this terrace we had almost a 
bird's-eye view of Jerusalem. Looking down the slope of 
OUvet, sprinkled with trees and rugged with rocks, we saw 
the deep valley of Jehoshaphat, which separated us from 
the city. 

Mr. Graham and my brother went into the city every 
morning, and I used to sit in the window-seat sweeping 
the landscape with an excellent telescope, watching the 
worshippers in the mosque area, or gazing on the hills 
round about Jerusalem, until every one became as familiar 
to me as the face of a friend. 

The olives and fig-trees around were flourishing, the 
pomegranates were in full leaf and blossom, and the fruit 
was beginning to form. The patches of wheat and barley 
on the terraces had been reaped, and thorns and thistles 
were springing up in the stubble-fields. My friends from 
the Consulate used to come sometimes to spend the midday 
hours with me, and my brother generally arrived in time 
for an evening strolL This quiet life brought back my 
strength, and I could again use my pen and pencil with 
delight, and with an untrembling hand, and by taking 
regular hours of rest I found I could work and enjoy all 
pleasant sights and sounds without suffering any ill effects. 

On Saturday I noticed that large companies of women 
gathered together on the slope of the opposite hill, below 
the St. Stephen's Gate. They sat in little groups under the 
olive-trees. They were all shrouded in white sheets, but 
many of them took off their mundils, or muslin face-veils, 
thinking themselves quite out of sight of strangers — ^but 
I could distinguish their features through the telescope. 

Eopes were fastened to the tree-branches and the children 
hegan to swing with great glee. The women followed the 
example, and seemed thoroughly to enjoy the monotonous 
movement. 

By midday there were more than a hundred women as- 
sembled, besides groups of children, so restless that I could 
not count them, attended by unveiled Abyssinian servants. 



328 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

Several black men came out of the St. Stephen's Gate, 
carrying provisions; they handed them to the female 
servants, and then went away directly. Soon a* number of 
circular trays were placed in the shade and covered with 
simple food and sweetmeats. Water was poured from jars 
over the hands of the women, and then they sat on the 
ground round the well-filled dishes. They were not nearly 
so silent over their meal as men are. They lingered over it, 
and I could see that they were laughing and talking merrily. 
Then they washed their hands again, and took coflFee, and 
smoked narghiles while the servants had their dinner, and 
they aU remained there, some sleeping and others chatting, 
under the trees, till an hour before sunset, when they veiled 
themselves closely and went into the city. It is a very 
common practice in the summer-time to keep holiday thus. 

On Friday, the 4th of July, the wind rose suddenly at 
midday, and was so violent that I was obliged to have all 
the casements closed, and even then the curtains were 
blown about, and papers fluttered through the rooms, yet 
the heat was intense. 

On Saturday, the 5th, I went with my brother, early in 
the afternoon, to the little village on the top of the central 
point of Olivet We called at the house adjoining the 
mosque. We entered a court, and mounted a steep stone 
stairway, and reached a broad terrace, with high raised 
stone divans, on each side of the arched entrance to a large 
but low room. Carpets and cushions were quickly brought 
out and spread on the raised seats, and a handsome Moslem, 
the son of an Effendi of some note in Jerusalem, who was 
staying up there for change of air, invited us to make our- 
selves at home. 

In a few minutes, the master of the house, a fine, 
grey-bearded, turbaned sheik, joined us. After we had 
taken sherbet, coffee, and a narghil^ he opened the door at 
the^base of the minaret, and we groped our way up the 
winding stairs to the top, and then stood in the balcony, 
silent with delight at the wonderful prospect which pre- 
sented itself. Looking eastward over the wilderness of 



DOMESTIC LIFE 11? PALESTINE, 329 

bossy hills, we saw a large expanse of the Dead Sea, with 
the Moab mountains beyond, stretching far away north 
and south. The sun shone magnificently, shedding a halo 
of gloiy on every object. In the foreground of the view 
a wely, or dome, stood on a rounded hill, which was 
covered with olive and fig trees. This is called the Dome 
of the Witnesses. Beyond this, there was no sign of life, 
all was desolate. But, looking westward, we could see 
Jerusalem, stretched out like a map beneath us, and there 
were evidences of human skill and industry on almost all 
the hills. 

While we were there, M. L., the cancelli^re of the French 
Consulate, and M. Gilbert, joined us. The latter said 
that the Pasha had been to the castle, to call on us, and, 
hearing where we were, had followed us. So we went 
down on to the terrace to meet him. 

Our host asked me, in a low voice, if I would visit his 
hareem, as his wives had expressed a wish to see me. 
With my brother's permission, I went. The old man led 
me through a court, and up on to a terraced roof, where an 
elderly woman, the wife of his youth, awaited me. He 
went away, and she said: "Welcome, my daughter; 
we have heard of you, and have been longing to see you 
and speak with you." She took me into a little garden on 
the housetop, and two handsome women, with features of 
Egyptian character, came forward to greet me. They 
wondered that I ventured to remain in the lonely castle on 
the hill, and said : " We dare not live there. God has 
given courage to English girls." I then inquired how many 
English girls they had known. " We know you, and we 
have known one other only. She was a girl who lived 
in the castle for a long time with her father." I found 
that they referred to the daughter of Mr. Barclay, the 
author of the *' City of the Great King." They asked after 
her with warm-hearted kindness. . » 

Suddenly, while we were speaking, the two younger 
wives started up, and went to the other side of the garden, 
crouched down in the shadow of the wall, and made their 



330 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

way cautiously down to their rooms. ' I said : " What 
has disturbed you?" The old wife, who did not move, 
directed my attention to a window, or rather a small 
square opening in a house not far oflF. A man was look- 
ing from it, evidently surprised to see a stranger there, for 
he lifted up some children to look at me. The old woman 
said : " Never mind, let us gather some flowers before we 
go down." There were dahlias, hollyhocks, balsams, scavias, 
African marigolds, everlastings, roses, sweet basil, and 
myrtles, in full blossom. I made a bouquet of the three 
last, and the woman said : " Why have you passed aU the 
other flowers to take these?" I said: "These are the 
flowers I love the best for their scent and for their beauty." 
She said : " Even as you love one flower better than 
another, so God loves one creature more than another. 
You are one of the favourites of God, and He protects you 
in all dangers." 

She wore by her side a flat gold box, about four inches 
wide and six inches long, suspended by a double chain. It 
was engraved with sentences from the Koran, and she said 
that it contained a charm against the power of an evil 
eye, and against sorcery. I told her I never wore charma 
She replied : " You do not require any. No one can hurt 
you." 

We went down into the women's room. The two young 
wives were waiting for us at the wide-open door, and had 
prepared coffee and sweetmeats for me. The room was 
laige and low, without any windows. There were small 
holes near the ceiling. 

I saw several young children. They seemed very 
much neglected, and the flies were allowed to tease them 
terribly, clustering on the edges of their unwashed eyelids, 
and buzzing about their sugar-crusted lips. 

The sun was going down, and the muezzin cried out 
from the minaret close by, so I rejoined my brother, and 
we retired, to allow our Moslem friends to enjoy their 
evening meaL I went several times afterwards, to sketch 
from the minaret, and to see the women. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 331 

On Sunday morning, Juljr 6th, I sat in tlie window-seat, 
and watched the funeral of a Moslem woman. The pro- 
cession issued from the St. Stephen's Gate. Some soldiers 
and other men carried the open bier. The body, covered 
with a sheet, was lying down flat, but the head was very 
much raised, and the face concealed by a mundll. The open 
grave was close by the wayside. A number of men were 
grouped around it, and some women were watching from 
the slope above, wailing wildly, swaying their bodies to 
and fro, and throwing up their arms, as if pleading pas- 
sionately. The clumsy bier was propped against a rock, 
and the dead body fell into an awkward sitting posture. 
Two men went down into the grave, and quite disappeared. 
The corpse was then removed from the bier, the sheet was 
taken ofif, and disclosed a figure just like an Egyptian 
mummy. It was handed, not very gently or reverently, to 
the men below, and then eight men held the sheet over 
the opening. After a minute or two the sheet was with- 
drawn, the men who had been covering up the body ap- 
peared above-ground, the sheet was removed, and the grave 
quickly closed. The crowd dispersed, and in a short time 
all was quiet again. 

It was a very hot day, and I was quite alone, for I had 
been persuaded not to venture into the town to church. At 
about three o'clock, I saw a large body of irregular Turkish 
troops issuing from the St. Stephen's Gate. They rode in 
single file down into the valley, and then rose up the sides 
of Olivet, along the path towards the village above. They 
all carried guns, and most of them had long spears. They • 
were dressed with no attention to uniformity, but nearly 
every one wore a red and yellow silk kefia, or fringed 
shawl head-dress. I counted fifty-two in the first detach- 
ment, but others followed in small parties, took the road 
along the valley, and disappeared behind the garden of 
Gethsemane. 

A little before sunset, my brother returned, and, in 
answer to my questions about the soldiers, said: "They 
were on their way to Abu Dis, a village on the other side 



332 DOMESTIC UFB IK I>ALESTINE. 

of the liill, whicli is now in arms against El Tiir, the village 
just above us. Several skirmishes have taken place during 
the last three days, and a few people have been killed on 
both sides. The Pasha is now determined to put a stop to 
the fighting. His Excellency has just now told me that he 
intends to encamp up here, and will have his tents pitched 
near to this tower." He did. so, and shortly afterwards 
his pretty green tents were to be seen under the ohve- 
trees. 

On Tuesday, July the 8th, Mr. Graham and my brother 
returned from the town early and said : " Now, put on some- 
thing that clay will not spoil, and rocks will not tear, and 
we will take you to explore the Tombs of the Prophets.'* 

Having equipped myself accordingly and provided wax 
candles, we rode up to the top of the hill through the little 
dusty village of El T<ir. We traversed the large cucumber 
gardens beyond it and entered a fine mulberry orchard 
A troop of half-naked little brown boys were up in the 
trees gathering the ripe and abundant fruit, and shouting 
merrily, while a few women, in purple linen dresses and 
white cotton veils, stood beneath with large trays and 
baskets made of reeds, which they were rapidly filling. 
We alighted under the trees. One woman, who seemed to 
have authority over all the rest, advanced to me and gave 
me some of the fruit. I had never tasted finer mulberries. 
Then, to my surprise, I was led to the mouth of a circular 
well, quite dry and nearly filled up with dust and rubbish. 
We got down into this and crept through a hole in the side 
and crawled along a winding and descending way on our 
hands and feet till we found ourselves in a circular cham- 
ber in which we could stand upright. It was about twenty- 
four feet in diameter, and in the middle about ten feet 
high. A little light came into it from a hole pierced through 
the solid rock above. Here we lighted our candles, and 
Mr. 6. drew my attention to three holes leading in diSerent 
directions. He entered the central one, moving backwards 
and pushing his way along on the ground. I crawled in 
head-foremost and much more easily. We were gradually 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 333 

descending, and presently came to a corridor which branched 
ofif in 'a curve on each side, forming part of a circle of 
which the chamber we had left seemed to be the centre. 
This corridor was about ten feet high and six feet broad; it 
was vaulted and cemented, and the floor, of rock, was made 
leveL There were a great number of chambers and niches 
in the walls, but there were no remains of cofiBns of any 
kind From this gallery, which was only a quadrant, other 
passages branched off. We entered one which led us to 
a gaUery of the same kind, but larger, and forming part of 
a more extended circle. Mr. G. advised us not to venture 
into the passages which he had not previously explored, for 
they are rather puzzling, and the place is quite a maze to 
an unguided stranger. The outer quadrant is said to be 
115 feet in length, and sixty feet distant from the circular 
chamber which is its centre. The passages which lead to 
and unite the two quadrants are roughly hewn in the rock. 
Some of the narrowest ones look like natural fissures. The 
ground on which we walked or crawled was close, firm, and 
dry, and neither dusty nor sandy. 

The atmosphere was chilly and yet oppressive. We made 
our way back to the mouth of the well, and were glad to 
see the sunshine through the green leaves of the mulberry- 
trees, and to breathe the fragrant air again.* 

The range of Olivet is divided by slight depressions into 
three parts. On the northern hill the little tower which we 
occupied is the most conspicuous object. The central and 
highest elevation is crowned by the village El T<ir. On the 
southern hill there are no buildings, but the olive-trees are 
more numerous than on any other part of the range. We 
mounted and rode southwards, pausing under the trees on 
the brow of the hill. Looking towards Jerusalem we saw a 
large party of Bashi Bazouks galloping up the hill and 
entering the city gates. The sun was going down. In a 
few minutes afterwards we heard shouts and songs of 
triumph, and a troop of armed villagers made their appear- 

* I went on another occasion down into this strange place, and found 
the walls quite wet, and the ground like damp clay. 



334 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTIKE. 

ance. Theie were about one hundred, and they marched in 
irregular order along the winding, rocky path, just* below 
us, close to Siloam. My brother said : " That is the little 
army which was sent forth by Siloam to take part in the 
fight up here." 

As we returned to El Tftr we were overtaken by a bright- 
looking peasant boy, singing lustily. He was riding on a 
little black donkey, which came leaping and dancing along 
as if he were as merry as his rider. The boy stopped his 
song and the donkey immediately stood still, as if it were 
an understood arrangement We found they were pausing 
by the side of a well, and I also waited there to let my 
horse drink from the stone trough close by. An old man 
had just filled it from a goatskia The boy told us that 
there had been a hard fight over the hill that day, and 
added: "five souls were killed." However, it turned out 
that two of these souls were horses. We stopped in the 
village to speak to the old sheik of the mosque. He said : 
"Good night, and God's blessing be upon you, O my 
daughter." I answered : " A hundred good nights to you, 
O my father." The moon was shining brightly when we 
reached the tower. 

On the 18th of July I went into town to stay at the 
late Rev. J. Nicolayson's for a few days, that I might take 
leave of all my friends in Jerusalem and make preparations 
for starting for HSifa. When all was in readiness, my tent 
was pitched at the Talibeyeh, where Mr. Finn had en- 
camped again. Mr. Graham was on the eVe of departure 
for England, much to the regret of the Jewish converts and 
even of the most stedfast Jews of Jerusalem, to whom he 
had shown unfailing kindness. Mrs. Finn and her co- 
adjutors in the management of the Jewish Plantation, and 
Mr. MeshuUam and his family united in publicly testify- 
ing their sense of his kindness, by inviting the principal 
Israelitish Christians living in Jerusalem to spend Thurs- 
day, July 24th, at Urtas, to meet him and his friends, 
among whom we were included. 
By this time my readers know the road to the pleasant 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 835 

gardens of Urtas. The scenery was sliglitly changed, for 
the com was all reaped, and green millet was growing on 
the plains. 

We reached the valley at an early hour. The little 
stone house could not accommodate one half of the party, 
so we were conducted by Mr. Meshullam to a guest- 
chamber made ready for the occasion. It was the joint 
work of nature and art. Three sides of it were formed of 
the steep rugged rocks, like seaside cliffs ; a fourth wall 
had been built up of hewn stone, and was furnished with 
a wide door, for this place was ordinarily used as a stable 
for cows, horses, and camels. It is about fifty feet by 
thirty. Two large fig-trees grew in the middle, and their 
leafy branches made an appropriate roof Divans, cushions, 
and carpets had been spread on the ground, and over these 
boughs and leaves of sweet lemon and citron were strewn. 
On the ledges of the brown and yellow rocks a few wild 
flowers grew, and one tall wild hollyhock stood proudly in 
a comer covered with pink blossoms. Wild honeysuckles 
crept from the slope above, and festooned the rude walls. 
A table was arranged in the centre, and breakfast was 
spread. 

There were twenty-three Christian Israelites present, 
besides Mr. Graham and about a dozen of his friends, 
with Mr. and Mrs. Finn, and the Eev. J. Mcolayson. 
The latter, after breakfast, stood in the shade of a rock, 
and addressed the company present with affectionate and 
earnest gravity. The Eev. Mr. Hefter, an Israelite, then 
rose, and spoke to his brethren, "and when they heard 
that he spake in the Hebrew tongue, they kept the 
more silence." Mr. Nicolayson repeated to us in English 
some of Mr. Hefter's principal remarks. Then the third 
Psalm was sung in Hebrew, in alternate solo and chorus, 
to a very ancient Oriental melody, which was sweetly 
echoed by the rocks and hiUs around, — rocks and hills 
which had very likely been trodden by David himself. 
The bright wild goldfinches in the trees above us joined 
loudly in the song. 



336 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

After this, the company separated into little groups. 
Some wandered to the vineyards, where the well-trained 
vines were laden heavily with fruit Others went to see 
the spring, and we rested by the stream, enjoying the 
sound of the rippling water, which flowed along just out- 
side the guest-chamber. 

I induced a peasant boy to let me take his portrait. He 
sat on a rock opposite to me, half in the sunlight and 
half in the shade. He wore a red and yellow shawl as 
a turban, and a coarse white linen shirt, with a red leather 
girdle. On his finger he displayed a large silver ring, 
with a small blue stone in it, as a defence against evil 
eyes and necromantic arts. 

Some Arab sheiks from Hebron came to Urtas to settle 
some business. They seemed very much surprised to see 
80 many strangers there. 

When the shadows began to lengthen, the guests as- 
sembled, and the table was spread with fowls, and various 
Italian and Eastern compositions. The chief dish was 
a fine lamb, stuffed with rice, raisins, pistachio nuts, pine 
seeds, and spice, roasted entire, in a hole dug in the 
ground for the express purpose. The garden had furnished 
abundance of vegetables, and ears of maize or Indian 
com, which were boiled whole. The great attraction of the 
dessert was a pyramid of ripe peaches, the " first fruits " of 
the orchard. 

Several appropriate and interesting speeches were made, 
and Mr. Graham, after speaking of the beauty of the valley 
in particular, and the natural fertility of the whole country, 
said : "Although there are so many waste places and desolate 
hUls, they are not barren, they only want cultivation. Let 
us be of the same mind with Caleb, the son of Jephimneh, 
and Joshua, the son of Nun, who brought a good report 
of the land." Then all present, with one accord, answered, 
shouting : " It is a goodly land! It is a goodly land! *' 

Soon afterwards, we rode homewards, and the moon had 
risen when we reached the TaHbeyeh. 



CHAPTEE XIII. 



ON Friday, July 25, all was in readiness for our return 
to Haifa, by way of YMa. Cawadja Ody Azam, of 
Nablfts, had arranged to accompany us, and we started 
about one hour before sunset. 

We hastened along the valleys and over the hills, now 
quite familiar to me, and reached Kyriat el Enab at nine 
o'clock. Close to the village there is a large, smooth, 
circular platform of earth, slightly raised and surrounded 
by large stones and shrubs. A gigantic mulberry-tree 
stands in the centre. Under its shade the chief men of 
the village assemble nearly every day. It is their council- 
chamber, their exchange, their lounging-place, and their 
play-ground. They smoke, they sleep, they play at draughts 
and other games, and transact aU Mnds of business there. 
This spot is the favourite camping-ground of travellers, 
and here we alighted. My brother led me over the stones 
on to the platform. Two or three lanterns were hanging 
from the tree-branches, and shone upon a little party of 
Moslems, who were seated in a circle just beneath. They 
rose on seeing us, and greeted us gravely. A large reed- 
mat, roUed up and leaning against the tree-trunk, was 
immediately put down for us. 

Our arrival was made known to Abu Ghaush, the governor. 
He sent us his greetings, with some melons, grapes, coffee, 
and a couple of wax candles. The latter, for want of 
candlesticks, we stuck in the ground. A white cloth 
spread over the mat, served as our supper-table. The 
Moslems watched us in perfect silence, while we chatted 
over our cold roast chickens. 



338 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

The stars shone splendidly, and a very slight breeze 
stirred the leaves of the tree above us. In the meantime, 
our tents had been pitched. The Moslems went up to 
the village, and we retired to rest. 

At five o'clock on the following morning we started 
again. We lunched in a fruit-garden at Kubab, where 
prickly pears were fine and abundant, and reached Eamleh 
at eleven o'clock We rested during the heat of the day at 
the house which we had visited in August. A new drawing- 
room, or divan, had been built, and the white walls were 
bordered with blue arabesque designs, and hung with 
curious pictures, specimens of caligraphic art. Long his- 
tories were written in ornamental Arabic characters, ar- 
ranged so as to represent animals real and imaginary. 
There was a lion very carefully done. At a little dis- 
tance it looked only like an ordinary quaint pen-and-ink 
drawing, though in reality every line consisted of part of 
a word. The Arabs very much admire these tedious, un- 
artistic, and time-taking productions. Almost the only 
modem Arabic poetry which is published partakes of the 
same spirit of ingenious trifling, for the chief aim seems to 
be, to compose verses in which certain names and phrases 
are introduced intricately, in an acrostic form, with elabo- 
rate care, but without any true poetic feeling. 

The real poetry of the country is unwritten. It is the 
everyday language of the people. They are all — ^more espe- 
cially the Bedouins and the peasants, unconscious poets. 
Their natural artistic feeling, and their sense of beauty 
and fitness, are shown in their costumes, which are always 
harmonious in colour, and never embroidered except with 
pure and graceful designs. They show their skill and taste 
in the simple and appropriate forms of their home-made 
leimps, jars, dishes, stoves, and other articles of domestic 
use, which they model in clay and expose to the sun 
till they are thoroughly baked. 

The windows of the new room commanded a fine view, 
the central object being the tall, Saracenic tower, for which 
Eamleh is renowned. It was built early in the 14!th century. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 339 

There are fruit-gardens on each side of it, and the white 
domes of the houses appear between the green trees. In 
an open space in front a troop of tired camels were kneel- 
ing, and their drivers were sleeping in the shade of the 
rough stone garden- walls, and hedges of cactus. The olive- 
groves and palm-trees of Eamleh, and the wide, undulating 
plain of Judea could be seen beyond, and the picture was 
bounded by a range of blue and grey hills, which the sunny 
haze caused to appear more distant than they were in reality. 
I sketched this scene, while my goodnatured hostess watched 
my pencil, she said : " Peace be upon your hands, my 
daughter !" We mounted again at about five, rode quickly 
over the sandy plain, and at about an hour after sunset we 
reached the Y4fa Gardens, where the air was balmy, warm, 
and fragrant, and reminded us of the atmosphere of a well- 
kept English conservatory. We went straight to the Latin 
Convent, by the seaside, and found that the suite of rooms 
belonging to the Patriarch of Jerusalem had been prepared 
for us, by his orders. A Spanish monk spent the evening 
with us, on the starlit terrace, looking over the Mediter- 
ranean. 

The next morning, Sunday, we breakfasted with Dr. Kayat, 
the English Consul, and then accompanied him to the 
Mission House, where service was conducted by Mr. Krus6. 
I spent the remainder of the day there with his family. 
Mrs. Kruse had established a day-school for Arab girls. She 
told me that she found it difficult and rather discouraging 
work, not on account of deficiency of capacity in the 
children, but because the ideas which they imbibed uncon- 
sciously, and therefore perhaps the more deeply, in their 
homes, constantly counteracted the influence of the lessons 
they learnt at school We sat for a long time in the cool 
of the evening among the flowers on the terrace, and 
watched the sun as it went down. 

The next day my brother was busy at the Consulate. He 
settled by arbitration a rather serious and long-standing 
dispute between an English naturalized subject, and an 
English prot^gd The Arabs praised his judgment and 

z2 



34:0 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

tact loudly, and said : " He has done well and wisely. 
He has saved the lamb without leaving the wolf to suffer 
hunger." The disputants declared themselves content and 
reconciled. 

At four o'clock we started to go by land up the coast to 
HsLifa. A large number of our friends walked with us as 
far as the town gate, and then took leave of us, saying : 
" Go in peace," and, " God direct you." The broad sandy 
road outside was, for the distance of a quarter of a mile, 
lined with people, sitting on very low stools, or half-reclin- 
ing on mats. I do not know any place where there are so 
many well-dressed turbaned and tarbouched loungers to be 
seen smoking, musing, gossiping, and playing with their 
rosaries, as outside the gate of the town of YS,fa just before 
sunset In the same place a market is held in the early 
morning, and then there is a crowd as large but much 
more motley, noisy, and busy. 

We soon made our way to the shell-strewn shore. The 
sea was rolling towards us on our left hand, the white- 
crested waves washed over the half-buried skeletons of the 
many ships and boats which had been wrecked there, and 
threw under our horses' feet masses of sea-weed and large 
fragments of sponge. Little birds were running swiftly along 
the sands, and gulls were flapping their broad white wings 
above our heads. The cliflfs on our right were very low, and 
hei*e and there covered with thistles and shrubs. Sometimes 
we could see the inland country, the plain of Sharon 
bounded by the far away hills of Judaea. The sea margin 
is broad, and composed almost entirely of broken shells. 
We were approaching a river called ** Nahr el Aujeh." We 
saw some peasants who were ahead of us preparing to cross. 
They took off their clothes. One of the men made a tight 
bundle of his scanty clothing, and threw it with a bound 
safe on to the opposite bank. The others, less venturesome, 
tied their wardrobes on the backs of their laden mules. 
Then they plunged into the stream, and, leading their re- 
luctant mules carefully, they walked through the water, 
which was as high as their waists. They were all safe over 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 341 

and hastily dressing themselves, by the time we reached 
the river-side. We found the stream very rapid, and even 
in the best fording place it was at least three feet deep. 
My horse was rather tall for an Arab, and he carried me 
over so well that I did not get very wet, though in leaping 
and scrambling out of the stream on to the bank, we were 
all well sprinkled The sunset was cloudless, the sky was 
shaded in imperceptible gradations, from a deep red, which 
merged into orange tints of every shade ; the palest was 
lost in a broad belt of delicate green, and this, blended 
with the blue above us. 

A multitude of crabs were running from their sand-holes 
towards the sea, and oyster-catchers were busily seeking 
an evening meaL The cliffs on our right hand were now 
considerably higher and steeper. They were formed of a 
conglomerate of shells and sand In some places the 
beach was very narrow and rocky. The twilight deepened 
rapidly, and a thick mist rose from the ground, so that 
we could only see the upper parts of the figures moving 
before us. We met a long string of camels, swinging 
themselves lazily along, and a group of Bedouins followed 
them. They looked very strange and shadowy, partly 
concealed and partly magnified as they were, by the mist. 
Our kawass, moving steadily before us, appeared to be 
gliding along without feet. We rode on quickly to El 
Haram, which we reached by making our way through a 
curious winding fissure in the cliffs. It is an ancient water- 
course, which now serves for a road. A low rough wall of 
rock stands in the centre, and divides it into two natural 
causeways. 

The groom alighted, and led the way, groping along the 
winding road, with a large lantern in his hand As soon as 
we reached the top of the high cliffs we were out of the 
mist, and could see the silhouette of " El Haram Aly ebn 
Aleim,"— "<Ae Sanctuary of Aly the son of Aleimr ' This 
place consists of a few well-built stone houses, clustering 
round an ancient mosque. It is a very favourite retreat of 
Derwishes and Moslem saints. We were conducted through 



342 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 

several courtyards and passages, then np a steep uncovered 
stone staircase, on to a wide terrace, where a party of 
Moslems were sitting round a little mountain of rice, and 
eating it quickly and silently by star and lantern light. 

The sheik of the village welcomed us, and invited us to 
enter the spacious and lofty guest-chamber, which opened 
on to the terrace. little red earthenware lamps of antique 
form were lighted, and placed in niches round the room, 
and then we could see that the roof was dome-shaped, the 
ceiling fluted, and the walls plastered and ornamented. 
But the whole surface was blackened with smoke from the 
wood fires, which are always kept burning in the centre of 
the floor in winter tima 

There was nothing in this room, except a few old reed- 
mats, which were spread all round near the walls. We 
had some of our tent furniture brought in, and after 
taking supper, making notes, and chatting with the sheik 
over our coffee and narghiles, we walked for a short time 
on the starlit terrace, where our feUow-traveUers and ser- 
vants, rolled up in their cloaks and wadded quilts, were 
already in deep sleep. We rested for a few hours in the 
great guest-chamber, and when the muezzin sang from 
the little minaret close by, saying: "Awake, sleepers, it is 
better to pray than to sleep," we answered to the call, and 
then went on to the terraca 

The day was just beginning to dawn. It was three 
o'clock, and the loud shriU voice echoing from the court- 
yard below reminded us that it was the first hour of 
" cock-crowing!* * The moon had not long risen. She was 
in her last quarter, but looked very clear and bright 

After breakfasting, we mounted, at four o'clock, and 
continued our journey northward, along the coast, but at 
a little distance from the sea, which was quite concealed 
from us by a ridge of drifted sand-hills. We traversed 
a wild; undulating, sandy plain, uncultivated, uninhabited, 
treeless, imwatered, and quite unmarked by roads. There 
were patches of poa bulbosa, marram grass, sea-holly, 

* The second " cock-crowing ** is at sunrise. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 343 

and thistles of many kinds, with pink, blue, and yeUow 
blossoms. 

Our guide had to look very carefully about him, so as to 
keep in the right direction, for there was no sign of a 
beaten track anywhere, but occasionally we were reminded 
that we were not the first travellers on that road, by the 
skeletons and bleached bones of camels and horses which 
we saw half-buried in the sand. 

The sun, though not yet in sight, brightened all . the 
Eastern sky, and shewed the dark outlines of the distant 
hills. We Watched for his coming. Presently half of the 
red globe appeared, and by degrees we saw the whole, just 
resting as it were, upon the horizon. After a moment's 
pause he seemed to leap up into the sky. At the same 
instant, we with one accord pronounced the name of 
" Edwin Arnold," quoting his sweet song of the " Marriage 
of the Ehine and the Moselle," and we repeated the weU- 
remembered words with new pleasure, as we rode along. 
The sky was intensely blue, and the moon still shone high 
above us. 

After sunrise, we met many droves of camels laden with 
melons. It was the time of the melon harvest. Every 
step we advanced, we found the land firmer and richer. 
The long fibrous roots of the marram grass had bound the 
sands together, and made a bed for shrubs of many kinds, 
but all were thorny and prickly. A few evergreen oaks 
and thorny bushes enlivened the desert-like scene. We 
drew near to a narrow winding river. Its course was 
marked by tall, flowering reeds, which, in the distance, 
looked like miniature palm-trees, and it was bordered 
by thickets of oleanders, lupins, and St. John's wort, all in 
full flower. We crossed this stream, which is called the 
" Nahr el Fulik," and noticed on our left hand extensive 
ruins of an ancient city and fortress, which appeared to us 
to be Eoman. We made our way through a wild shrub- 
bery, formed chiefly of ilex, arbutus, hawthorns, and rue. 
Now and then from the rising ground we had a wide 
view of the sea, which was as yet only partially illumi- 



344 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

nated by the sun. Lines of light traversed its smooth 
surface, gleaming through the openings and breaks in 
the cliffs. We had reached the melon-growing district, 
and a lively picture of Arab life was before us. Up to the 
very edge of the cliffs, all along the coast, as far as we 
could see, there were beds of various kinds of melons, and 
groups of dusky peasants in white shirts and white turbans 
were busily engaged gathering them, counting them and 
building them up in pyramids. Hundreds of camels were 
there too, some walking away well laden, others kneeling 
down patiently, while their i)anniers were being filled with 
the bulky fruit. We passed several mud-built villages. 
White tents were pitched in the midst of the gardens — 1 
was told that they were the tents of the taxgatherers, who 
had come to claim the tribute on the melon harvest. 

We alighted in the midst of these scenes, near to the 

flourishing village of Um Khalld. It was half-past seven, 

we rested for a little while under a large solitary trea 

Looking westward, we could see a broad strip of the now 

sunlit Mediterranean, beyond the melon -gardens, which 

are by no means picturesque. The large rough melon leaves 

lie flat on the level ground, which looks as if it were 

strewn with great green and yellow marbles,. fit for giants 

to play with. There were no hedges or trees to break the 

monotony of the view, but the busy labourers gave life to 

it. The plots of ground are divided by furrowed lines, 

where thorns and thistles flourished. I sketched the scene 

for the sake of its singularity and simplicity. We wished 

to buy a few melons, but the overseer of the labourers, 

told us that we might take as many as we liked, but he 

could not sell them except by hundreds. After a refreshing 

rest, we remounted and rode through miles and miles of 

melon-ground. Wherever the land in this district was left 

uncultivated or fallow, the wild colocynth had sprung up 

plentifully. This fruit on an average was three inches iq 

Lmeter, and firm and hard as stone, with a smooth 

green, white and yellow rind, marked like fine marble. We 

filled our saddle-bags with it, for it is only regarded by 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 345 

the Arabs as a weed Squills too, grow profusely, but are 
ploughed up and destroyed. 

We went down to the seaside, and found a pleasant 
strip of shade under the low cliffs, where there were moun- 
tains of melons waiting to be carried away in Arab boats, 
and the camels were coming and going quickly along the 
winding road from the cliff to the shore. 

We watered our horses at a stream called Abu Zabura, 
It had not sufficient force to reach the sea, but formed a 
shallow lake not far from it. We soon afterwards caught 
sight of the picturesque ruins of Caesarea, and alighted there 
at half-past ten, and rested in the shade of a large stone gate- 
way. The horses were all unsaddled, and we made arrange- 
ments to remain there during the heat of the day. In a 
short time nearly all of our party were fast asleep. I tried 
to follow the example, but in vain, so I climbed up the cliff 
and looked about. Not a human being was visible. Thorns 
and thistles grew among fallen columns, and huge masses 
of masonry. The site of an ancient Christian church is 
marked by four massive buttresses, which stand erect and 
firm, though the walls they were intended to suppoi-t fell 
long ago. The most important reUc of ancient Caesarea is 
the mole, which stands far out at sea, beaten by the waves, 
and fringed with surf. The large bevelled stones and 
granite columns have fallen into strange and complicated 
disorder, but they seem to cling together, and to support each 
other in their desolation. I came down on to the sands 
again, and made a careful drawing of this remarkable ruin, 
stone by stone, while I sat exactly opposite to it, in the 
shelter of a short tunnel, which pierces the cliff in a sloping 
direction towards the sea. I supposed it to be part of an 
ancient sewer. I gathered some tall sea poppies, with pale 
yellow blossoms, which grew close to it, and picked up a 
few imperfect shells. 

After taking some refreshments we mounted at half- 
past three, and continued our way along the sands. We 
coxdd see in the broken cliffs the sections of the foundation 
of the outer walls of Caesarea — three walls originally sur- 



346 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

rounded the city, each one at a considerable distance from 
the other. The beach was strewn with blocks of marble. 
Mounds of masonry resting on rocks, and festooned with 
sea- weed, stood there firmly, though continually washed 
by the waves. We rode on quickly till we came to " Nahr 
Zurka," — "<Ae river of crocodiles,^' I have been told by 
many people that small crocodiles are found here even now. 
Traition says that on the shores of this river, there was 
once a colony of Egyptians. The colonists procured some 
young crocodiles from their beloved Nile, and succeeded in 
thoroughly establishing them here. On the south side of the 
river, stands an isolated stone building, now in ruins. We 
supposed it to have been an outpost of Csesarea, and per- 
haps, it marks the site of the city called by ancient geo- 
graphers "The city of crocodiles." 

We found the river rather diflBciilt to ford, for it' was 
deep, broad, and rapid, and there was no one near to guide 
us to the easiest fording-place. A few hours sometimes 
makes a vast difference in the character of the mouth of 
a river, the wind may entirely cany away the sand-bar, 
or change its position. Our kawass made many ex- 
periments before he found a safe path for us, which we 
traversed carefully, one after the other in single file, and 
landed on the opposite side very wet and chilly. 

We soon came to a picturesque, but dangerous and rocky 
bay, where small coasting boats are often wrecked. Here 
CoL the Hon. F. Walpole had a short time previously 
attacked a party of Arabs who were remorselessly plunder- 
ing some half-drowned sailors, and pillaging their wrecked 
vessel Some of the wreckers were taken to Y&fa as pri- 
soners by the Colonel We saw about fifty rice baskets on 
the beach, relics of the freight of the vessel which he had 
protected. 

In the year 1858, a little Arab craft — laden with rice 
and oranges, and carrying a Jewish family, consisting of a 
father and mother, and several children — was wrecked here 
in a fearM storm. The boat struck, and was split in half. 
One or two of the boatmen were saved, the passengers were 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 347 

all drowned, or deshed to death on the rocks, with the 
exception of a boy a year old, who was thrown by a high 
wave safely on to the shore, where a number of wreckers 
were assembled to watch the fate of the vessel They took 
up the young child wonderingly. A small party of 
Bedouins who were passing by at the time offered to take 
charge of him, and bring him up as one of their own 
children, saying : " Do no harm to him, for it is the will of 
God that he should live." So the wreckers gave him up to 
them, and the little Hebrew boy was carried away I know 
not where. Some peasants who were on their way to Hdifa 
witnessed this singular transaction, and through them I 
heard of it. They said the boy was fair, strong, and 
healthy, and they would themselves have taken him, if 
the Bedouins had not done so. This boy has perhaps 
been nursed by a Bedouin mother, and will learn to live a 
wandering life in the land of his forefathers, in utter igno- 
rance of his real origin. It would be very, interesting, if it 
were possible to watch his career, to see how far he will 
retain his national characteristics, physical and moral, and 
what influence he will have on the little tribe with which 
he will no doubt at an early age incorporate himself by 
marriage. I should like to meet him when he has arrived 
at manhood, if I could be convinced of his identity. 

Bedouins frequently name their children after some cir- 
cumstance Qpnnected with their nativity, or some cotem- 
poraiy event ; and there is every reason to expect that this 
httle Hebrew boy, like Moses, is called by a name having 
some allusion to his strange history. For instance, " Ebn el 
Bahr" — Son of the Sea, or "Minbahr" — From the Sea, would 
he natural Bedouin names for him. It would be difl&cult, 
hut not impossible, I think, to trace him out now. My 
first impulse, on hearing of the circumstance, was to try to 
recover the boy, and restore him to the Hebrew com- 
munity, but it was not in my power to do so. 

It was said that his parents were Algerine Jews, who 
were about to settle in Palestine. The wrecked vessel had 
conveyed them from Egjrpt to their untimely graves oa 



348 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

the shores of the land which they so longed to see, but 
which their youngest child alone was permitted to reach in 
safety. He probably was the only one of the family 
who had not learnt to love it, and to believe it to be the 
land which was promised to his forefather Abraham, and 
to his seed for ever. 

Perhaps the descendants of this little Hebrew boy will 
some day be a subject of discussion, arid a puzzling ethno- 
logical enigma for scientific travellers. 

Beyond the bay, the sands were broad and smooth. I 
could see in the distance, straight before us, the well- 
remembered rocky islands, and the village of Tantfira, 
where, in September, we landed, " because the winds were 
contrary." When we had nearly reached this place, we 
turned away from the sea-shore, and rode inland towards a 
little Moslem village, called Kefr Lamm. We approached 
it through a district in which fine building-stone abounds. 
We rode through ancient quarries, and over large, smooth 
slabs of rock, polished like marble. We looked into the 
arched recesses, and peered into large artificial, gloomy 
caverns, where, perhaps, the stone-cutters of old used to 
eat and sleep. These quarries have evidently not been 
worked for centuries — not, perhaps, since Athlete and 
Dora were built. Large trees and shrubs had sprung up 
out of the earth which had fallen from above, or had been 
drifted by wind and rain into sheltered places in the 
bottom of the quarries. 

The sheik, and all the chief men of Kefr Lamm, came 
out to meet us, for we were expected, and well known 
there. We rode through flourishing fields of Indian wheat, 
millet, sessame, and tobacco, and alighted on the outskirts 
of the village, which consists of low houses, built of mud 
and stone. I found my tent, which had preceded me, 
already pitched amid little mountains of wheat and barley, 
near to an extensive threshing-floor, where oxen were busy 
treading out the corn. Carpets and cushions were soon 
spread for us on rising ground, in the open air, and coffee 
and pipes were brought. The sheik, and the priest, and 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 343 

the old men of the village, sat opposite to us in a half- 
circle, while the young men were standing round, or 
resting on the heaps of wheat near. 

We were not quite a mile from the shore, and were 
facing the sea and the setting sun. A long line of coast 
was in sight. The rocky islands and ruins of Tantftra — ^the 
ancient Dora, could be plainly seen, a little way to the 
south, and the tall tower of Athlete, or Castel Pelegrinum, 
appeared far away in the north. 

At the moment when the sun dropped down into the sea, 
the village priest rose, and stood in the middle of a large, 
smooth, and well-swept threshing-floor, which was close by. 
He looked earnestly and solemnly towards the south, and 
sang, in a loud and sonorous voice, the call to evening 
prayer. There was no minaret or mosque in the village. 
The sheik, and the elders who had gathered round us, 
immediately rose and assembled on the threshing-floor, in 
a double row behind the priest, who thus looked truly like 
the leader of the little band. They echoed his words, and 
followed all his movements with precision, kneeling and 
bowing their faces to the ground, and uplifting their hands 
and rising to their feet with one accord. They were joined 
by the labourers from the other threshing-floors and by our 
Moslem servants, but the younger men who had been talk- 
ing with us hesitated at first to attend to the call to prayer. 
They looked at each other as if undecided what to do, and 
then at us, as if they were ashamed. We tried, by keeping 
perfectly still and silent^ to make them imderstand that we 
did not expect or wish them to neglect their devotions on 
our accoimt. Suddenly they rose altogether and ranged 
themselves in a row on the border of the threshing-floor, 
and their strong voices blended with the voices of their 
fathers as they cried : '* There is no God but God, and 
Mohammed is his Prophet." 

No women came forward to pray, but I saw some stand- 
ing afar off watching the assembly. The prayers occupied 
rather more than a quarter of an hour. I had never 
seen a service conducted with more solemnity, even 



350 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

within the sacred inclosure of the Sanctuary at Jeru 
salem. 

Immediately afterwards, supper was brought for us, and 
at the same time a wooden bowl, rather shallow, but about 
a yard in diameter, and filled with steaming rice boiled in 
butter, was placed on the ground at a little distance from us. 
Metal dishes containing meat, eggs, vegetables, and cream, 
were added to the feast, round which the sheik, the priest, and 
the elders of the village assembled. They ate quickly and 
silently, dipping pieces of their thin leathery loaves into the 
dishes of fried eggs or into the cream — ^tearing the tender 
morsels of meat to pieces with their fingers:~dipping 
their hands together into the mound of rice and skilfully 
and'neatly taking it up in pellets. When they were satis- 
fied they retired one after the other to wash their hands 
and to light their pipes. Their places were quickly 
taken by the younger men and boys in turn, and, when 
they had all finished, the servants gathered round, eating 
from the same dishes, the simplest of which had been 
replenished during the repast. Several sets of Arabs 
silently swallowed their supper while we leisurely used 
our knives and forks. The fragments that remained after 
the feast, were not carried away until all the men and boys 
of the village had eaten there, but the women ate elsewhere 
in private. 

We had some fine green figs, the first I had tasted that 
year. We found all the fruits and vegetables in the plain of 
Dor, in a much more advanced state than those in the hill- 
country of Judaea. After sitting in the open air till about 
nine I retired to my tent. My fellow-travellers, including 
my brother, wrapped themselves in cloaks, and slept on 
the hillocks of wheat. I rose at five, and from the door 
of my tent I watched the rising of the sun above the range 
of CarmeL 

After taking some excellent milk and coflfee, we started 
and rode through the well-cultivated fields, the fruit and 
vegetable gardens, and the neglected quarries north of Kefr 
Lamm. We were soon by the searside and in the road 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 351 

which we had traversed in September. We again looked 
with admiration on the ruins of Athlete, and passed 
through the ancient defile into the plain, across which the 
road formerly passed ; many traces of it may still be seen. 
This plain was much more green and beautiful than when 
we had seen it before, and the fountain called " Ain e*Dus- 
trein" was bordered with oleanders covered with pink 
blossoms. At about eight we paused by a spring, down on 
the sands, half-way between Athlete and the headland of 
Carmel. There is a square stone building over the spring 
with a deep trough or reservoir all round it. Here we 
alighted and breakfasted on fish and peasant bread, and 
then rode on quickly to HSifa, which we reached at ten 
o'clock, July 30th, and the hearty welcome with ^i^Aich 
we were greeted gave us great pleasure. 

Our friend Mohammed Bek was one of our first visitors, 
and he was soon followed by Saleh Bek Abdul Hady, 
the ex-governor, who told me that his wives whom I had 
visited at Arrabeh were established in Hfi,ifa and were 
longing to see me. There were some additions to the 
European colony, and when Signer V. the Dutch Vice- 
Consul called, he informed us that he had obtained a 
piano. It was the first which had ever been introduced into 
HSifa, and there was no one in the town, excepting myseK, 
who knew how to touch it. 

He invited all the Europeans to a soiree a few days after 
our arrival, that the new instrument might be inaugurated. 
I had previously tried it and consented to preside on the 
occasion as there was no one else to do so. 

There was quite a sensation in H§,ifa that night, and the 
open space in front of the house was crowded with listeners, 
among whom were the new governor, Zachariah Aga, a 
Turk, and Mohammed Bek and aU the chief Moslems. 
They caUed the next day on Signer V. begging him to 
invite me to meet them at his house, that they might 
see and hear me play, then they came to my brother and 
requested him to induce me to go, so an evening was fixed 
upon, and we went. We found the Governor and about 



352 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

twenty Moslem gentlemen, in their richest embroidered 
costumes, assembled in the drawing-room, at the Dutch 
Vice-Consulate, where we were received by Signer V. and 
his aged father and mother. The antechamber was crowded 
with servants and lantern-bearers. 

The piano had been tried in turn by nearly all the 
guests, and they said : " We cannot make it speak the same 
language which you cause it to speak, oh lady 1 " I handed 
to them some pieces of music, saying : " Could you do so 
with the help of these ? " It was very amusing to hear 
their exclamations and observe the surprise with which 
they watched my fingers, especially when they found that I 
looked all the while at the book before me. They are 
accustomed only to see small and portable musical instru- 
ments, and they wondered at my command over one so 
large, and said : " The labourers at harvest-time do not work 
so hard or move their hands so quickly." They seemed to 
be more struck with the rapidity with which the keys were 
touched than with the sounds which were produced, until 
I played their national anthem, "Abdul Medjid." Then 
they all seemed roused, and a clear-voiced singer, the 
Sims Eeeves of H§,ifa, came forward immediately and 
sang, the rest of the company joined in chorus. One of 
the Beks seemed to appreciate music so much, that I told 
him if he would buy a piano for his wife I would teach her 
the use of it. He said : " Oh, my sister, our women are not 
capable of learning — their heads are made of wood— it 
would be as easy to teach donkeys as to teach them." 

By degrees nearly everyone in the town became familiar 
with the sounds of the piano, and it gave rise to many very 
pleasant soirees. This was the dawn of a new era in the 
history of the little European colony at Hfiifa, and music 
and singing were cultivated with energy. 

I was very busy in the meantime putting our house in 
order, after my long absence from it. Katrine, my old 
servant, had returned to Bethlehem, so I trained a young 
girl of HS,ifa to take her place. 

I had not time to visit the hareem of Saleh Bek until 



DOBIESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 353 

August the 11th, which was the first day of the Feast of 
Bairam, when all Moslems are to be seen in holiday 
costume. I went to the house attended by a kawass, who 
waited for me in the inner court while I was led up a 
crooked, uncovered, stone stairway to a small square court, 
and thence into a large and lofty but rather gloomy room. 
In a moment I was surrounded by my well-remembered 
friends of Arrabeh. The children came forward shyly, and 
Helweh led me to a cushioned seat on the floor, saying : 
" We have been longing to see you, light of our eyes, let 
us see you often. You are not like us, you may come to us 
whenever your heart tells you to come, but we may not go 
to yoiL When we first came here, and found ourselves in a 
strange place, and heard that you were not yet arrived, our 
hearts sank within us." 

The house which they occupied was in the castle square, 
and was not so comfortable or so well built as the one in 
which I had seen them at Arrabeh. Narrow mattresses 
were ranged all round the chief room of the hareem where 
I was received, and the floor was covered with matting. 
The ceiling was vaulted, and all the windows, which looked 
out on to public places, were blocked up, so that the light 
only came from the door and window which opened to the 
half-covered private court. Mattresses, pillows, and wadded 
quilts were piled up in an arched recess, and a thin muslin 
curtain was drawn in front of it. Two red boxes and a red 
cradle stood at one end of the room, and a charcoal brazier 
with all the requisites for making coffee and preparing 
narghiles were close to the door. A large embroidered 
camel-hair cloak, and a sword, gun, and spear were hanging 
against the white cemented walls. Coffee flavoured with 
ambergris, and delicate sherbet made of almonds and rose- 
leaves, were handed to me. 

The servants who were present were the same whom I 
had seen at Arrabeh. Helweh, the youngest and prettiest 
of the three wives, looked much more womanly and sedate 
though not less affectionate than formerly. She wore very 
fall deep rose-coloured silk trousers, and a tight jacket of 

A A 



354 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE.' 

violet and white striped Damascus satin, sprinkled with 
small bunches of flowers, and round her waist was a fine 
Oashmere shawL The eldest wife was dressed in flowered 
silk, and her three young daughters, of whom the eldest, 
named Asm^, had grown very beautiful, wore violet- 
coloured silk jackets, embroidered with silver braid, and 
quite closed in front Their trousers were of light muslin 
and made very full and long. They each wore little red 
cloth Constantinople tarbouches, put on coquettishly a 
little on one side. The other wife was busy with an infant 
boy of whom she seemed very proud 

While I was answering their many questions about my 
long journey, and receiving their commiserations because 
neither I nor my brother were yet married, the lord of the 
hareem sent word that he would, with my permission^ 
enter in to greet me. So he came. When he appeared the 
wives and the women-servants immediately rose and stood 
deferentially tiU he was seated, then, as they resumed their 
seats, they saluted him by touching their foreheads grace- 
fully with their hands. In the meantime the children came 
forward and kissed his hands. He seemed very kind and 
gentle to aU his family. He said to me : "I rejoice to see 
you here, lady, I hope you will often come, for where 
you are there is clearness and brightness." 

His children unconsciously proved to me that they were 
accustomed to be caressed by him, for they clustered round 
him lovingly, and little Said was especially demonstra- 
tive. He said coaxingly, " my father, may I go to see 
the house of the English lady ? it is her wish that I should 
go." Asm6, his eldest daughter, scarcely spoke a word, 
and sat sedately still and impassive ; and the face which a 
few minutes before had seemed to me so beautiful with 
vivacity and cheerfulness looked quite unattractive. It 
seems to me to be a part of Oriental etiquette for the 
elder children to preserve a kind of grave decorum in the 
presence of a father, the younger children alone are free to 
show their natural feelings, and demonstrative affection is 
regarded as childish and undignified. The wives did not 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 353 

look quite at their ease, perhaps because it was the first 
time they had ever seen their husband in the presence of a 
stranger, but they trimmed his pipe and waited on him 
with assiduity. The servants and slaves were standing near 
to the door, whispering together, and appeared very much 
amused. Saleh Bek informed me that he was about to 
send two of his sons, aged fifteen and sixteen, to the 
Latin college at Antiira, a French establishment, not far 
from Beiriit. He said that if there had been an English 
college in the country, where as good an education could 
have been obtained, he should certainly have chosen it 
in preference. While we were talking, an Arab lady 
was announced, so Saleh Bek immediately rose, and^ 
hastily taking leave of me, retreated. . The lady kept her 
face closely veiled as she passed him in the court. When 
she came into the room the eldest wife rose, and, kindly 
welcoming her, assisted her to take off her white sheet and 
coloured musKn veil, which she handed to a slave to fold 
up. I found the newly-arrived guest was Um Selim, a 
Christian, formerly of Y&fa, but who now lived at H&ifa ; 
she had come to the hareem to meet me there. After the 
usual greetings had been exchanged, an animated conversa- 
tion was carried on by two of the wives and Um Selim. 
They spoke so rapidly and vehemently that I could 
scarcely understand a word. In the meantime Helweh, 
who was by my side, explained to me in simple words, 
gently spoken, the subjects of the conversation and the 
causes of the occasional bursts of laughter. 

After inviting the children to come to see me on a 
certain day, I took leave and went with Um Selim down 
into the court, where the kawass awaited me. We passed 
the open door of the divan or reception room for men, it 
was filled with visitors. The son of Yassin Agha, on seeing 
me go by, came out and asked to be allowed to lead me to 
his house that I might visit his mother. I did so, and 
afterwards went to three other hareems. 

On the second day of the feast I visited some of the 
poorer Moslem families in the back streets of the town^ 

AA 2 



366 DOMESTIC UFK IN PALESTINE. 

Following the kawass, T made my way with Um Selim 
through dirty narrow lanes, with gutters running down the 
middle of them. We paused at the house of a Moslem who 
was in my brother's employ, and who had very recently 
married a poor gardener's daughter. We went through an 
arched doorway into a square ill-paved courtyard, where a 
tent or booth of palm-branches and evergreen shrubs had 
been made. An old mat was spread within it, and we were 
invited to sit down there. The young wife was rather shy 
and not at all prepossessing in appearanca Her wide mouth 
and large glistening teeth were made to appear still more 
prominent by the row of blue spots round the edge of her 
thick lips. Her eyes were dark with kohl and her chest 
pcdnted and exposed. She seemed to be kept completely in 
awe by an elderly woman — I think it was her mother-in- 
law — ^who played the part of hostess and acted as guardian 
to the young wife, who did not appear to be very comfort- 
able nor accustomed to her new life. She had never seen 
her husband till her marriage-day, not quite a month 
befora The "honeymoon" is not understood among the 
Moslems ; they have, I believe, no word or idea answering 
to it. After we had taken a tiny cup of strong coflFee 
without sugar the elder woman took us to see the house, 
which consisted of one room only, which opened into the 
court. It was large, lofby, and windowless, and looked like 
a bam, and the door was large enough to admit a laden 
cameL This room served as parlour, kitchen, and bed-room, 
except in bright weather, when the tent of tree-branches 
was used. I was very much surprised to see an old Italian 
print, representing Moses holding the tables of the Law, 
nailed against the smoke-blackened wall, and ostrich eggs 
and ornamental lamps suspended &oni the ceiling. I asked 
the woman what the eggs were for. She said : " They will 
keep darkness and sorrow far from us ; " but she did not 
know whence the picture came, or what it was for, and 
seemed surprised when I told her that it represented "Neby 
Mftssa," the Prophet Moses. 
A few days afterwards, when Saleh Bek Abdul Hady 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 35/ 

called, he saw a 86t of chess-men on our table. He eagerly 
inquired if we could play, adding: "I have not had a game 
at chess since the time of Ibrahim Pasha. I used to play 
with his oflBcers at 'Akka." When he found that I understood 
the game, he exclaimed : " El-h&mdou lillah ! {praised be 
God/) I will come every day to play with you ! " I said : 
" Excuse me, that would be too often, I have not time to 
play every day." However, we spent an afternoon at chess 
about once a fortnight, and I found I had a skilful and 
careful antiagonist. He was the only Arab in HS,ifa who 
could play chess. 

His children, especially the boys, frequently came to 
our house, and were soon quite at home there. They and 
their young cousins from Arrabeh, who sometimes came on 
a visit to Hdifa, were very intelligent and inquiring, and 
picked up, almost unconsciously, a great deal of information 
from our illustrated books. 

The three little girls came sometimes, but were always 
accompanied by an old female servant, — or duenna, to 
prevent them from being seen by strangers. These visits 
were only made when it was known that my brother 
was out of town. The women came once to see me, by 
special permission, but the doors of the Consulate were 
guarded by their own servants all the while they were thera 
I went to see them as often as I could, and was always 
heartily welcomed. Except on fSte-days, they were gene- 
rally dressed in jackets and trousers made of Manchester 
prints or muslins. I foimd that the senior wife, who had 
evidently once been very handsome, formerly belonged to 
a wealthy Turk, and had been presented to Saleh Bek, in 
her youth, as a reward for some special service. She had 
been brought up in great privacy, in a hareem in Constan- 
tinople, and was thence conveyed to her new home at 
Arrabeh, where she was at first very unhappy, for she was 
a complete stranger there, and spoke only Turkish. For- 
tunately for her, Saleh Bek understood it, and she, by 
degrees, acquired the Arabic language. Though she had 
come from a great city, she had seen so little of it, that 



S68 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALE8TIKE. 

she knew no more of the world and its Idstoiy than her 
new companions in Arrabeh, and hardly so much perhaps as 
the wives, concubines, and servants which Saleh Bek after- 
wards took £ix)m the little villages in the neighbourhood. 
The seclusion in which Moslem girls are kept is more or 
less strict, in accordance with their rank or position — the 
poor having unavoidably more liberty than the wealthy. 

Helweh, who came from the little village of Kefr K&ra, 
seemed to possess more natural quickness of comprehen- 
sion than any of the other women. 

They had long before heard Christians spoken of, but in 
terms so vague that they, hardly regarded them as fellow- 
creatures ; but now that they lived in the little sea^oast 
town of H&ifa, where there was a mixed population, in- 
cluding Moslems, Jews, and Christians of distinctly various 
sects, and people of many nations, they were by degrees 
receiving new impressions, and ideas which probably would 
not have entered their minds if they had continued to live 
in the interior, and in such an exclusively Moslem district 
as the Djebel Nablfts. 

. They had already become acquainted with a few of 
their neighbours, and were constantly hearing of some- 
thing which was to them new and strange. Whenever I 
visited them, I found they had some wonder to relate to 
me, or some story to tell, which had reached them either 
through female servants, or Christian or Jewish guests, 
or the professional singing women, or, more often stiU, 
through the gossiping attendants at the Turkish baths; 
stories which were almost always entirely misunderstood, 
and which gave rise to false yet strong impressions. It 
was an interesting study for me to mark the constructions 
which they put on the circumstances, manners, customs, 
and forms of worship, of which they heard, but which they 
could not comprehend or realize. I found it almost as 
difficult to help them to understand the ways that were 
not as their ways, and the thoughts that were not as their 
thoughts, as it would be to describe the nature and effect 
of light and colour to a man blind from his birth. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 359 

Helweh especially, used to ask me suggestive questions 
about religion. She often said: "Why are not all people of 
one religion ? Why are they not all Moslems ? it would 
be much better." 

She always seemed to forget that I was not a Moslem. 
She sometimes appealed to me, with touching confidence, 
asking me to tell her what it was right to do under 
particular circumstances. Instead of deciding for her, I 
used to try to awaken in her mind some principle by which 
she might judge rightly for herself. 

I often found appropriate and ready answers, by adopting 
the very words of Christ, conveying the simplest and most 
comprehensive of those lessons of love which were taught 
long ago in this land, and listened to by people as unin- 
structed and eager as Helweh herself, and by Scribes and 
Pharisees who were put to silence by words addressed not 
to any particular sect, but to all the world. 

These women who thus questioned me made me think 
more earnestly and carefiilly than I had ever thought be- 
fore, and they unconsciously helped me to understand the 
natural progress and growth of ideas. I could, by identi- 
fying myself with them, partially imagine the absence of 
all those thoughts, feelings, and conceptions which had 
grown with my growth and strengthened with my strength, 
till they seemed almost to be a part of my mind 

But this interesting hareem was not my only school I 
mingled at the same time with European and native Chris- 
tians, and especially with the Sakhali family, and with 
devout Jews, who kindly helped me to understand all the 
laws and the fasts and the feasts which they observed. 
The Oriental Christians are unhappily very bitter in their 
hatred of the Jews. They generally treat them with great 
contempt, and make a merit of avoiding association witli 
them, but they agree with the Moslems in admitting that 
the Jews throughout the East are, as a body, remarkable 
for the purity of their lives, the simplicity of their manners, 
and the strictness with which they observe their religious 
services. They are, however, notorious for the quarrels 



360 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

which take place among themselves, and for the noisy 
disputes which sometimes arise between the represen- 
tatives of the different congregations or communities. 
The Jewesses, especially of the Ashekenazi communities, 
are renowned for their domestic virtue and industry. 

On October 5th my brother started for Beiriit on busi- 
ness. I remained at Hdifa, and then more than ever I 
found how very kind and thoughtful my neighbours of 
all classes were ; especially I thank the French Consul, 
M. Aumann, and his family, for the friendly and active 
sympathy which made me feel that I was not alone, 
although there was no one in the town who could speak 
an English word to me. 

Nearly all the Moslem ladies of HS,ifa took the oppor- 
tunity for visiting me then, and the Governor and the 
members of the town council called several times to see if 
they could serve me in any way. 

On the 10th of October, early in the morning, a boat was 
lost in a whirlpool within sight of Haifa. The day was 
very sultry, and in the evening the sea was perfectly calm, 
and the air heavy. After spending a few hours with the 
French Consul and his family, in their moonlit and marble- 
paved court, I went home, and notwithstanding the almost 
suflfocating heat, I slept soundly, till I was roused by a 
deep murmuring sound, which was like subterranean 
thunder, and I felt my bed trembling beneath me. At 
first I thought a wind storm had risen, but that was 
impossible, for the muslin mosquito curtains were not 
more agitated than my brass bedstead, which rocked from 
east to west. I was very soon satisfied that I was for the 
first time in my life experiencing a shock of eai-thquake. 
I rose immediately. The room was bright with moonlight, 
which streamed through the rattling Venetian shutters. I 
opened the window.. The moon was nearly full, and just 
above the range of Carmel, it was as red as the sun 
appears to be when seen through an English fog. The 
ground trembled violently three distinct times, the second 
shock being the strongest. There were heavy storm-clouds 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. S6l 

resting over HAifa, their western edges were tinged with the 
lurid light of the red moon. My maidservant was sleeping 
soundly. I walked out into the open court of the house. 
The two kawasses were rolled up in their wadded quilts 
on their mattresses in the arched corridor, and seemed 
undisturbed. A storm of thunder and lightning followed, 
and I walked through the house from room to room, 
watchiDg the progress of the storm and the breaking up 
of the clouds. 

The next morning, early, the Governor, several of the 
vice-consuls, and many Arab friends, called to hear if I had 
been disturbed and alarmed by the earthquake. Those 
who lived near the mosque told me that they had taken 
the precaution of moving out of their houses in the night, 
for the minaret rocked so violently, that every one who 
watched it expected that it would falL Happily no acci- 
dent of consequence occurred — a few old walls only were 
cracked and shaken. Mons. A told me that during the 
shock he had observed that the sea was violently agitated, 
and covered with foam, though there was no wind. 

The Arabs were all in great consternation, for they 
regarded this convulsion of nature as an ill omen. For 
several subsequent days nothing else was talked of The 
shocks had been strongly felt at 'Akka, Soor, and Saida, 
and slightly in the interior. 

All my visitors had some story to tell me about former 
earthquakes, and especially about the terrible one which 
occurred in 1837, when Safed and Tiberias were destroyed, 
and when Hi,ifa was for three days almost deserted, and 
people lived outside in the open air, not venturing to enter 
their houses, the shocks being so frequent. The heavens, 
they said, were dark at midday, and the sea had a strange 
red tinge. Some people went so far as to declare that " its 
waters were turned into blood," and all agreed that it lost 
its saline flavour, and had rather a sweet taste. 

On the 22d of October there were steady showers of rain 
during the day, and in the evening I watched one of the 
grandest thunderstorms I had ever seen, it was followed 



362 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

by a wild storm of wind and rain, which lasted all night 
Soon after sunrise the wind ceased, and there was a great 
calm, but the streets of H&ifa were like canals, and some 
of the old walls, which had been damaged by the earth- 
quake, were quite broken down. In the gardens many of 
the finest trees had been uprooted or stripped of their 
branches, the pliant palm-trees seem best calculated to 
resist the fury of these equinoctial gales. 

I spent the afternoon of the 23d of October with the 
young widow of Abrahlm Sakhali. She was still mourn- 
ing bitterly over her loss. I tried to excite her interest, 
and succeeded in gaining her attention by telling her 
about the home of my childhood and my school-days. She 
seemed for a while to forget her own troubles, in won- 
dering how I could leave my parents and my country, and 
having left them, how I could consent to stay alone in a 
town where there were none of my " oivnpeopW 

We were thus talking, when her black slave, who was 
sitting on a mat at needlework in the sunshine close to the 
open door, suddenly rose, and, kissing my hands, said: 
" There is joy for you ! there is joy ! — ^your brother, the 
Consul, has even now arrived. I hear the sounds of many 
voices in your court." She was right, for at the same 
moment we saw the flag hoisted, and as I hastened away 
she said: "This is your reward, God has brought happiness 
to you, even as you have to-day spoken pleasant words to 
the mother of fatherless children." 

In another minute I was with my brother. He was ac- 
companied by a Turkish gentleman, who had travelled with 
him from Beirut, and who had just received the appoint- 
ment of Governor of HS,ifa. His son, a nice boy of about 
ten years of age, was with him. They dined with us, and 
the little Turk found it rather difficult to manage a knife 
and fork. The father asked me if I would undertake to 
civilize him. They were complete strangers in the town, 
so they remained at our house for two or three days. 

On the 25th, Zachariah Agha, the ex-Governor, called to 
take leave of me, and then the new Governor established 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 363 

himself at the castle. He told me he did not think he 
should send for his wives, as he could not teU how long he 
should be allowed to remain in office at H^ifa 

Some wealthy Moslems have a home, and a wife or two, 
in each of the villages or towns where their public or 
private business obliges them to reside for any length of 
time during the year. On the 29th of October nearly all 
the shops were closed, because it is reckoned a day of ill- 
luck by the Moslems, and on that day no bargains are ever 
made. The Moslems wiU not, if they can help it, even speak 
on any subject of importance, and they generally remain 
in doors till the close of the ill-omened day. Mohammed 
Bek came to the Consulate, asking me to be his guardian, 
and to allow him to remain in my presence until sunset, 
pretending that he thought no evil spirits could approach 
him there. I was told by a "true believer," that bad 
angels have, on that particular day, full power to carry out 
all the mischief they may have plotted during the year. 
In Constantinople all the public offices are closed in conse- 
quence of the prevalence of this impression. 

On Thursday, the 4th of December, the Feast of 
" Sainte Barbe" was celebrated by all the Christians of the 
Latin Church at H&ifa. I went early in the morning to 
see Madame Aumann. I found her planting grains of wheat, 
barley, and millet, and seeds of lentils and grass, in plates 
and ornamental saucers and large shells. She merely 
covered the grain or seeds with water, and then ranged the 
dishes in the sun. " This," she said, " is always done on 
the f8te-day of St. Barbe, and by Christmas-day the grass 
and the grain wiU have grown." But she did not know 
what it was intended to signify. She invited us to meet 
all the Europeans at the French Consulate that night, and 
we went. We found every one full of fun and merriment, 
and one of the guests, a Mons. Jullien, who had lately 
arrived from Algiers, and had served in the army there, 
appeared with mock solemnity, in a scarlet robe and white 
cardinal cape, in the character of the priest of St. Barbe. 
To my surprise, the most devout Catholics present did not 



364 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

seem to be shocked I asked one lady whom I knew to 
be very earnest in the performance of what she believed 
to be her religious duties, if it gave her pain to see such 
mockery, but she simply said: " It is custom, there is no 
harm in it." 

When we were all assembled, we were led into a room, 
in the centre of which was a low stool, on which was a 
very large dish made of wood. It was filled with wheat, 
boiled in honey or sugar, and mixed with pomegranate 
seeds. Over the surface sweetmeats and bleached nuts 
were sprinkled, and round the edge of the dish twelve 
tapers were burning, and a flag was stuck in the 
middle. 

Before we partook of these sweets, the sot-disant priest 
chaunted a litany in an unknown tongue, which neither he 
nor any one present understood. After this mummery was 
over, Madame A. fetched a smooth, silver, blunt-pointed 
pin, about three inches long and the eighth of an inch 
thick, with an ornamental head. She then burnt some 
sweet gum and frankincense in the flame of a little 
antique lamp, and held the pin in the flame till it had 
become quite black ; then, after waiting till the pin had 
cooled, she inserted it dexterously between her half-closed 
eyelids, and rubbed it backwards and forwards, as if really 
" rending her eyes,'' as Jeremiah expresses it,* till she had 
produced the eflFect so much admired by Orientals. She 
handed the little instrument round, and nearly every one 
of her guests followed her example. It was astonishing 
how the appearance and expression of all the faces, espe- 
cially of the fairest ones, were altered immediately. I 
scarcely recognised my brother, who certainly would not 
have submitted to this adornment if he had not believed 
that he could wash it off immediately, but to his dismay 
it was many days before the black tinge disappeared, and 
then only after persevering and frequent rubbing. H^lUny, 
one of the female servants, took the lamp and the frankin- 

* Jeremiah iv. 80< 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 365 

cense which Madame A. had used, and held a white earthen- 
ware plate over the flame. She thus <iollected a quantity 
of soot. The soot thus prepared is mixed with antimony, 
and kept in little ornamental bottles, ready to be used in 
the manner described on page 96. 

The Europeans, especially the semi-Europeans, strictly 
avoid those customs which they regard as peculiar to the 
Arabs, but at the feast of St. Barbe they seem to tolerate 
that which at ether times they most condemn. No one 
could give me the slightest reason for this fantasia, or tell 
me anything of its history or origin, or what St. Barbe had 
to do with the germination of grain, the dish of sweets, 
and the twelve candles, which I suppose represented the 
twelve dpostles. Even the village cur^, of whom I made 
inquiries the next day, coidd not give me any information ; 
he said: "It is a custom peculiar to the Eastern Chris- 
tians." The Greeks kept it much in the same style on the 
16th of December. On referring to Butler's "lives of the 
Saints " I find it is recorded, under the head of December 
4th, that Saint Barbara was a holy virgin and martyr, " who 
is honoured with particular devotion in the Latin, Greek, 
Muscovite and Syriac calendars ; but her history is obscured 
by a variety of false acta Some say that she was a scholar 
of Origen, and suflFered martyrdom at Nicomedia, but others 
say that she suflFered at Heliopolis, in Egypt, about the year 
306 — ^there stood an old monastery near Edessa which bore 
her name." I was surprised to see with what fideHty and 
enthusiasm the people kept this festival, and yet showed 
no curiosity to learn its origin or history. In fact they 
keep all kinds of fasts and feasts, and perform all sorts of 
ceremonies, without pausing to consider what they mean. 
It is enough for them to know that they are "ancient 
customs " — and customs in the East are like the laws of 
the Medes and Persians. I do not pretend that in Eng- 
land we are altogether exempt from this kind of folly, but 
it is much more apparent among the Greeks and Latins 
of the East. 

On Saturday, the 6th of December, I was playing at 



366 DoicEsnc ufe in palestiks. 

chess with Saleh Bek Abdul Hady, when one of his 
servants entered the drawing-room, and approaching his 
master, said : "A son is bom to you, my lord/' Mohammed 
Bek and Saleh Sakhali, who happened to be present, united 
with me in congratulating the father, but he received the 
tidings very quietly, and to my surprise persisted in finish- 
ing the game, which he did as coolly as he had commenced 
it. He afterwards lingered to read some ancient Arabic 
poetry aloud to my brother, and did not leave us till long 
after sunset. 

On Monday, the 8th of December, I visited his hareem. 
In the chief room I found a large number of people 
assembled, and in one comer there was a bed, consisting 
of two mattresses, on the floor, and Helweh, my favourite, 
was half reclining on it. When I approached her, she 
threw herseK on my neck and burst into tears, but quickly 
recovered herself and said: "Welcome, light of my 
eyes." I said softly: "You are very happy, Helweh, in 
being the mother of a son. Where is the boy?" She 
answered sadly : " I have no son. My child is a female 
child, and is made no accoimt of." I sat on the edge of her 
bed, and she lifted up the heavy coverings by her side and 
handed to me a little figure swaddled in white and purple 
lineu, and crimson silk, with its head bandaged and its 
eyelids blackened with kohL I said : " What name shall 
you give your little girl?" She answered : " The Bek will 
name her — I have no power." I said : " Have you any 
choice?" She replied: "I should like it to be called 
Miriam, because that is your name, and it is a good name." 
I said : " That would please me greatly, and your little 
child would remind you always of me. I will ask the 
Bek if he will allow it." She answered immediately: 
*■ Then the child is named already — its name is Miriam." 
A number of women were sitting round the room leaning 
against the walls, and after coffee had been_ brought for me 
and a narghile had been prepared, the nurse, a strange- 
looking woman, with long ragged hair dyed with henna 
till it had become a tawny red, began in a low monotonous 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 367 

key to* sing a welcome to the first-born child of Helweh, 
and all the women clapped their hands beating the time. 
I found that there had been a very serious quarrel in the 
hareem, and to prevent mischief Saleh Bek had been 
obliged to hire a separate house for one of his wives, and 
she had gone there with her children and servants. 

Soon after I returned home I saw Saleh Bek and I asked 
him if he had seen his new-bom child. He said: "No, 
custom forbids me to see it or its mother before seven days 
have passed." He added: "I have heard your wish that the 
child should be called ' Miriam,' it is sufl5cient, and I am 
reconciled to having a daughter instead of a son, because 
she may thus take your name. If after three years you 
will undertake the charge of her and teach her even as you 
have been taught, I shall think myself happy." 

He afterwards explained to me that the messenger who 
had brought the false tidings to him of the birth of a son 
knew perfectly well that it was a daughter which had been 
bom to him ; " but," he added, " in this land people are so 
foolish that my servant was ashamed and afraid to announce 
to me, in pubKc, the birth of a female child, for it is 
thought no honour to be the ' father of girls.' " He assured 
me that he did not himself entertain this prejudice, though 
he certainly showed more pleasure and pride in his sons 
than in his daughters. This was natural, for he had the 
opportunity of educating the former and training them 
according to the best of his judgment, while the latter 
were a subject of great perplexity to him. He had be- 
come convinced that the civilization of a coimtry depends 
very much on the character and position of its women, and 
he had liberal and enlightened notions about the advan- 
tageous influences of female education and freedom, but he 
did not know how to take any steps in the way of reform. 
He wisely observed that any sudden change would be 
dangerous, and lead to more harm than good. This was a 
subject on which I also had thought deeply and seriously. 
I found it rather difficult to come to any practical con- 
clusions. 



368 DOMESTIC LITE IK PALESTINE. 

Eeform in any system or institution, to be safe and sure, 
aiid on a firm foundation, miist arise naturaUyand from 
within. Women like my Mend Helweh might do much 
towards efiPecting a change for the better in the mode of 
life in hareems, and men like Saleh Bek would aid and 
encourage it It seems to me that all we can do, is to 
enter into sympathy with the Moslem women, and try to 
awaken and develop all the highest feelings of their 
nature, and to help them to understand and feel the power 
which they have of governing and elevating themselves, 
and to encourage them to exercise that power, and to think 
seriously. This may be done without the aid of books, and 
.without perplexing them with new mysteries and dogmas. 
We might lead them insensibly to acknowledge and 
understand those ancient and universal laws of love which 
Christ declared to be the foundation of all reKglon— "The 
Lord our God is one Lord. . . . Love Him with all thy 
heart, and with all thy soul, and with all thy strength, 
and with all thy mind, and love thy neighbour as thyself 
This do, and thou shalt liva" 

Words like these can rouse no anger or opposition, and 
they wiU. daily become more clear and comprehensive to 
every one who truly takes them as a guide and rule of 
life. 

By striving earnestly to obey these simple laws, by mea- 
suring every thought and action by them, women shut up 
in their hareems would become Christians, though they 
might still be called Moslems. Then their daughters would 
at an early age be led to love God with a trustful reverence, 
and taught to contribute to the happiness of all around 
them. Their sons, whose hearts and minds would naturally 
be ennobled and enlarged, would in manhood respect and 
honour their early teachers. 

Thus by degrees women might be safely and surely 
emancipated, and the most jealously guarded hareems 
would be gradually converted into enlightened and happy 
homes. The character of the whole nation might thus be 
changed, but any attempt to exercise an influence fix)m 



DOMESTIC LH'E IK PALESTIKK S69 

without would certainly fail, if the religious prejudices or 
ancient customs of the people were directly attacked or 
condemned, for a dangerous spirit of antagonism and indig- 
nation would be immediately roused. All we can do is 
to try to excite Moslems to think more earnestly, and to 
endeavour to awaken in their minds the spirit of truth, by 
which they may be led to condemn all those customs and 
practices which are at variance with it, but which no mere 
words of ours will ever induce them to abandon. Indeed, 
they will probably be adhered to more obstinately than 
ever, if arguments be raised against them. " Overcome evil 
with good." 

Missionaries, in the common acceptation of the word, 
would find it very difficult to obtain access to hareems. 
I do not refer to men, for they of course could not enter. 
I am thinking of the persevering, enterprising, and talented 
Sisters of Mercy who are now established in many parts 
of Syria in Latin convents studying Arabic, and of the 
devoted wives of Protestant missionaries. But if they gain 
admittance they will certainly find that they will make no 
impression by teaching creeds or doctrines, or by trying to 
prove that Christianity is true, and Islamism is false — that 
the Bible is a Divine revelation, and the Koran a forgery — 
that Christ is the Son of God, and that Mahomet is an im- 
postor. This would not touch the hearts, or reach the minds 
of the matter-of-fact Moslem women, but any one who will 
help really to elevate them and reform their homes, will 
be helping indirectly to strengthen and confirm Turkey as 
a nation, for the men will be more vigorous and noble- 
hearted when the women are made free. 

On the following Saturday I visited the hareem of Saleh 
Bek again. I found it crowded with guests, for it was one 
of the days of congratulation. I heard the sounds of the 
tambourine and the voices of the singing women before I 
entered. When I was announced, there was comparative 
silence for a minute or two, and the women and girls made 
way for me, that I might approach Helweh. She was sit- 
ting up in a cushioned corner. She looked delicate, but 

B B 



370 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE; 

prettier than ever, and was very gaily dressecL She had a 
rosebud and strings of pearls in her hair. Her eyelids were 
newly dressed with kohl, and her hands with hemuu 
There was a new joy in her £ace, and a striking expression 
oif resolution, earnestness, and tenderness, when she placed 
my little swaddled namesake in my arms. I sat down by 
her side. A slave rose and put a small thin mattress on 
my knees, that I might rest the child on it.* By this time 
the tambourine sounded again, and the chief singer com- 
menced an impromptu song, having reference especially to 
the fact that the child had been named by me, and sug- 
gesting that it was a happy omen for the little one to have 
gained my love and protection from the moment of its birth 
Then they sang songs in my praise, using extravagant 
similes, but so picturesque and full of imagery, that I could 
not help thinking of the Song of Songs which is Solomon's. 
A third woman sang a sort of prayer for me, or rather 
wishes for my prosperity. In this song she forcibly pour- 
trayed the Oriental idea of the highest happiness — the 
delight of the mother, who in her youth opens her eyes 
upon her first-bom son, and in her old age sees her chil- 
dren's children round her. It was a passionate outpouring 
of emotion, and every one present seemed to enter into the 
spirit of it. I do not suppose it was an improvisation, but 
rather an adaptation of one of those old unwritten songs 
handed down from one generation of singers to another. 

Some dancing followed, and especial songs were sung in 
praise of the various guests as they arrived. The room 
was close and warm, and filled with smoke, for all the 
women were in turn supplied with narghil&, and I was 
glad to go out into the fresh air again. 

On Christmas morning, at an early hour, the chief 
Moslems of Haifa came to the Consulate to greet us, and 
wish us happy returns of the " Eed el Cabeer," that is, '^th 
Chreat Feast day'' About forty people came and stayed 

* These nursing mattresses are commonly used, and are coyered with 
friUed or embroidered cases. 



IX)MBSTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 371 

long enough to take coflFee and smoke a narghile or chi- 
bouque, and taste our preserves. Saleh Bek and Yasstn Agha 
remained after the other guests had left us, and the former 
told me that he had sent his wife Helweh and little Miriam 
to Arrabeh, for change of air, as they were both delicate. 
I was surprised to hear that he had allowed the little one 
to go away without having once looked at her. Later in 
the day, after high mass had been celebrated in the Latin 
Church, we were visited by the Christian population. 

On the 2d of January, 1857, Dr. KoeUe, a German, 
arrived in Hdifa, under the auspices of the Church Mis- 
sionary Society, and I had the pleasure of welcoming his 
English wife and little daughter. 

There was a threat of excommunication uttered from the 
churches against any one who would dare to let a house to 
the new missionary. Nevertheless a good house was found, 
and his landlord was heard to say : " I shall be excom- 
municated for this, I suppose, but if so, I will learn the 
English religion, and the new priest will receive me into 
communion." 

This arrival did not make any impression on the town 
generally, for the doctor lived a studious and secluded life. 
He had suffered severely in Damietta from brain-fever, and 
was sent to Hiifa to recruit his str^igth and to learn 
Arabic. He studied from books laboriously, and not from 
intercourse with people, so that the work was doubly 
difficult.* 

On the 20th of January my brother invited all the 
best informed of the Arabs, without regard to creed, to 
meet at the Consulate in the evening, to make arrange- 
ments for the formation of a society for the acquisition and 
diflFiision of useful knowledge, relative to the arts and 
sciences and the history of civilization. The project 
was eagerly welcomed, and my brother was elected pre- 
sident. Mons. A., the French Consid, delivered the in- 
augural address to a large assembly on the following 

* They left the town after having remained there about two years 
and a hall. 

BB2 



372 DOMESTIC UFB IK PALESTINi;. 

Wednesday. He spoke energetically of the powers of the 
human mind, and the advantages of study and scientific 
research, and alluded with great feeling to the past history 
of the East, its grandeur, its scientific attainments, and its 
intellectual and moral influence over the world at large. 

The subjects most eagerly studied, were the elements of 
geography, voyages of discovery, general history, and the 
rise and progress of civilization in different countries. 
Some of the members took especial interest in the history 
of the arts and manufactures. I was never present at any 
of these meetings ; I used to retire to my room when the 
president took the chair. One evening, when as usual I 
had retreated, and was busy writing an Arabic exercise, 
somebody tapped at my door. It was Yassln Agha, one 
of the most wealthy and influential Moslems in the 
Pashalic. (See page 101.) He apologized for disturbing 
me, but said: "I entreat you to allow me to come and 
smoke my pipe here, that I may ask your coimsel and help 
in a great matter." I welcomed him, and after having 
requested permission to close the door, he took a seat and 
said : *' I have been greatly wishing to speak to you, it 
is now two months since you have been to my house — 
why have you ceased to come?" I answered, "Since the 
lamented death of your wife there is in your house no one 
to receive me as a guest, therefore I no longer go there." 
He answered: "It is even as I thought, but now I have 
come to ask you to do me a great service. I wish to ask 
your advice about taking another wife. I have thought 
of one, you know her, and I want you to tell me if she is 
good and if she is beautiful. She is the daughter of Saleh 
Bek Abdul Hady, and her name is Asmd" I answered: 
"In all the country, I think, there is not a girl more 
beautiful or more pleasant than Asm^." I had taken her 
portrait carefuUy, and I handed it to him. He was delighted 
with it, and said, gazing at the picture: " How tall is she? 
Does she speak softly? What is her age? Does her mother 
know you well ? " I said, " Yes." " Then," he answered, 
" she must needs trust you. Tell her, I pray you, how I wish 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 373 

to have her daughter for my wife — ^tell her all you can to 
make her have favourable thoughts of me — tell her I have 
a beautiful new house — tell her that my wife shall live like 
a princess. If you do this business for me, I will be your 
slave for ever. I am fierce to marry that girL Speak also 
to her father, Saleh Bek. Call him here to play chess with 
you, "l^ut do not think of the game, think only how to win 
this girl for me. Saleh Bek will take your counsel." 
When he had concluded his vehement appeal, and began 
soothing himself with his chibouque, I told him I must 
consider before I could promise to speak in his behalf, but 
I undertook to ascertain for him whether Asm^ had been 
already betrothed, or promised. I knew that one of my 
Moslem friends had at one time thought of asking for her, 
so I questioned him, and foimd that he had abandoned the 
project. Shortly afterwards I called at the hareem, it did 
not seem like the same place to me now that Helweh and 
my little Miriam had been sent away. The senior wife, the 
Turkish lady, however, received me very kindly, and her 
daughters were gentle and affectionate in their greetings. 
I ascertained, in course of conversation, that Asm^ was be- 
trothed to her young cousin, the son of Mohammed Bek 
Abdul Hady, of Arrabeh, and that the marriage would take 
place very shortly. The bridegroom was only sixteen. On 
my return home I sent for Yassin Agha to inform him of 
this, that he might at once abandon his project. 



CHAPTEE XIV. 

AFTEE Easter, we frequently enjoyed the society of 
English travellers, who paused for a time in the 
neighbourhood, either in their white tents among the trees 
outside the town, or at the convent on Mount CarmeL 

On the 23d of April, the beautiful little yacht Sylphide 
arrived, and was at anchor for several weeks off Hiiifa. I 
spent some delightful hours on board. Captain Leyland, 
who was then the owner, had truly made this yacht a 
home upon the waters, for he was accompanied by his 
wife, his daughter, with her governess, his son, with a 
tutor, and by Dr. Antony, a physician and amateur pho- 
tographer. 

Sunday, the 24th of May, the birthday of our beloved 
Queen, was also the first day of the great Moslem feast 
of Bairam, which follows the long and fatiguing fast 
of Eamadan. The little town of HMfa was, in conse- 
quence, unusually gay. All the people were dressed in 
their best, and the yacht Sylphide, and H.M.S. Desperate, 
a man-of-war, then in port, were decked with flags and 
streamers. 'Akka looked as if it were being besieged again, 
as the guns of salute flashed from the ramparts in quick 
succession, enveloped the city in clouds of smoke, and 
boomed heavily across the bay. 

We kept the fSte on the following day. The British flag 
was saluted at sunrise, and guests were coming and going 
untU sunset. Jews, Christians, Moslems, Druzes — towns- 
people, peasants, and seamen — natives of Europe, Asia, 
Africa, and America — came to greet us, and to pronounce 
a blessing on our Queen, and a prayer for her country. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 375 

On Thursday, 11th of June, there was a grand eccle- 
siastical procession, in honour of the fite, of " CDrpus 
Domini." The monks and priests of Mount Carmel, and 
nearly all the Consuls, assisted in the ceremony. The 
Moslems did not offer the slightest opposition to the dis- 
play, although there had never before been such a demon- 
stration in.H&ifa. My brother was requested to raise th« 
English flag on the occasion, and to allow his kawasses, 
who were Moslems, to walk before the prfests, to clear and 
lead the way, in company with the kawasses attached to 
the other European Consulates. This he politely but firmly 
declined to do. His refusal was taken in a good spirit^ and 
the request was not repeated. 

In the afternoon, we rode along the sands, round the bay, 
to 'Akka, and thence to the " Bajeh," that is, " the Garden of 
Delight,'' about twenty minutes beyond the city. It is one 
of the prettiest places in the Pashalic. It was formerly 
the hareem of Abdallah Pasha, who employed Greek and 
Italian artists to carry out his ideas of comfort and 
splendour. 

The place is now the property of Mr. Girgius GiammaL 
He and his family occupy the large villa, built in the 
Italian style, which stands in the midst of the garden, 
where cypresses and pines rise above the fragrant orange 
and lemon trees and acaciscs, and where all kinds of pleasant 
fruits and sweet flowers abound. I had met the ladies of 
this family first at Yafa, and had visited them at their 
town house in 'Akka. The gentlemen had often been with 
us at Haifa, and had repeatedly invited me to the " Bajeh;" 
so my brother left me there, while he made a tour in the 
interior, which had recently been disturbed by civil war. 

Arabs who have associated much with Europeans, and 
who have obtained a slight European education, very often 
adopt European costumes and customs, and seem ashamed 
of their own, but this was not the case with Mr. Giammal's 
family, and though several members of it were pretty well 
acquainted with English, they had scarcely abandoned any 
of the Oriental fashions, either as regards dress or manners. 



376 DOKESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

Furhah, the youngest sister of Girgius, had been educated 
by the American missionaries, at Beiriit. She spoke Eng- 
lish freely, with fanciful Oriental idioms and expressions, 
which gave a chann to everything she said. She was one 
of the very few native girls I knew who could read and 
write Arabic. She was betrothed to a studious and excel- 
lent man, an Arab, who at that time lived at HSifa. He 
could speak no language except his own, but he knew that 
thoroughly^ and my young friend enjoyed the unusual 
advantage of being able to correspond with him without 
the aid of a secretary. 

One affcemoon, as I was walking with her in the garden 
of roses, she showed me a little poem he had written to 
her, in the form of a letter, in which he complained of not 
having heard from her for several days. 

Furhah is a happy wife and mother now, and I think 
she will forgive me, if I chronicle here a translation of the 
letter, which made her face look so bright on that 1 7th of 
June. I wrote it down in my note-book, as literally as 
I could, after she had kindly read it to me in Arabic two 
or three times, carefully explaining in English the meaning 
of every word which I did not understand. (Don't be 
angry, Furhah!) The letter was dated HS^ifa, June 15, 
1857:— 

** my heart — ^where art thou ?' 
Be BtiU, O my heart ; have patience in thy sorrow. 

Behold, God gave patience unto Job ! 
I caU to her, but she is silent ; 
I speak, but she does not heai*. 

Why are my words unanswered ? — 
If they wiU not sufifer her to write, 
Let her go down to the garden of roses, 

And whisper her loTe to the fragrant air. 
I sit under tiie palm-trees, 
And the air will bring me her love. 

The Palm-tree listens fur the Rose-bud ! — 
I sat under the palm-tree. 
But no soft wind brought me her love. 

Why does her love refuse to meet mine ? 
Hy loTe is great : — if she saw my suffering 
She would have pity ! Her extreme gentleness 

Could not give me such pain ! 



. DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 377 

Great is my love ! If my love were in the Sakhara, 
The great and wonderful rock the Sakhara, 

It would be broken into a thousand pieces. 
Great is my love ! If my love were in the great mountain, 
The great mountain of Petra, 

It wouM be moved. 
Great is my love ! If my love were in the sun, 
The sun, the sun at noon-day, 

Her face would be darkened. 
Great is my love t When shall my heart rejoice 
With thee, my ' Furhah' ? 

* Pwrhah* my * true joy /' 



t* »* 



"Furhah'* is the Arabic word for "joy," and it was 
the name of the young girl to whom this poem was 
addressed. 

The Bokhara referred to above, is the great rock at 
Jerusalem on Mount Moriah, and the beautiful dome 
above it, " Kubbet es Sakhara," ''the Dome of the Rock** is 
almost always mistaken by travellers for the Mosque of 
Omar, which is in fact a comparatively insignificant 
building. 

The Arabs speak of the sun in the feminine, and of the 
moon in the masculine gender. 

There was a stanza about the moon in the poem, but I 
did not note it down at the time, and I do not remember 
it now. 

In Mr. Giammal's establishment there were several black 
servants, good-natured Abyssinian girls. They looked very 
picturesque in their holiday dresses made of scarlet woollen 
stufiF, with silver necklaces and anklets, and glass bracelets, 
with red tarbouches and bright coloured muslin kerchiefs 
fancifully arranged on their heads. One day there was 
great rejoicing among them, and cries of congratulation 
echoed through the house. I inquired the cause. I found 
that a young slave girl, who had been hired by Mr. 
Giammal, had just been set free. She was the property of 
an Arab widow lady who resided at 'Akka. This lady had 
just arrived at the *' Bajeh,'' and had given freedom to her 
slave and told her that she had made a will in her favour. 

The poor girl was at first quite overcome with delight 



378 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

and wonder, but on reflection she seemed almost to tremble 
at the loneliness and responsibility of her new position. 
She asked her mistress if she could love her always just as 
much as she had loved her before, and said : " I would 
rather keep your love than gain my freedom." The lady 
explained that she was growing old, and could not 
live long to watch over her, and it was the thought of 
approaching death which had caused her to decide to 
give her young slave freedom. Furhah told me that when 
this girl had been iU with fever in the spring of the 
year, her owner came from 'Akka, and sat up two nights by 
her bedside, and did not leave her till she had recovered. 

The girl stUl remained in Mr. Giammal's service. The 
only change in her position was that her wages were to 
be paid to her, instead of to her late owner. I ques- 
tioned the girl a day or two afterwards, as to how she 
felt She said : " I am free and I am very glad-hearted, 
but I do not know what it is that makes me so glad. 
I am the same one that I was before, and I work and live 
as I lived before, but everybody says it is better to be 
free." 

Late on Friday night, the 19th of June, my brother 
arrived and told me that we must return to H§,ifa as early 
as possible on the following morning, and start for Beiriit 
by the next steamer, for he had been appointed to take 
charge of the Vice-Consulate there for a few months, as 
Mr. Moore was about to visit England. 

A busy fortnight followed, the last few days of which 
were spent in taking leave of my friends at H&ifa, many of 
whom I never saw agaiiL 

At half-past four on the morning of the 4th of July, a 
large number of people, Jews, Christians, and Moslems, 
walked down to the rocky landing place with us, and 
watched us as we went swiftly over the waters in a little 
Arab boat, on our way to the Austrian steamer. We were 
accompanied by the French Consul and Mohammed Bek, 
who went on board, and remained with us tiU the last 
moment. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINR 379 

Wlule my brother's duties detained him in Beir&t, I 
had tiie opportunity of visiting the Lebanon, and becoming 
acquainted with the history of the inhabitants of the moun- 
tains—the Druzes and the Maronites. My brother helped 
me to understand the complicated and threatening aspect 
of affairs, for he could even then foresee how, sooner or 
later, the mountaias would become the scene of civil war 
— ^but of these things I will not speak here. 

/We did not return to Palestine until the following 
November. We steamed into the Bay of *Akka, at sunrise, 
and with pleasure saw again the range of Carmel, and the 
white convent, every window of which dazzlingly reflected 
the light of the morning sun. We were soon lowered into 
a little Arab boat, and the dusky palm groves, the flourish- 
ing fruit gardens, and the town of H^ifa seemed to rise 
up by magic out of the sea to receive us as we rapidly 
approached the shore. How glad I was to land there again, 
and still more glad to see the well remembered faces of my 
friends, and to hear their hearty words of welcome spoken in 
many tongues. But there were many changes in the place 
— deaths, births, marriages, arrivals and departures — old 
houses pulled down, and new ones built up. Saleh Bek 
Abdul Hady, with whom I used to play at chess, had gone 
with his family to settle at Arrabeh, and I heard with deep 
regret that his child, my little namesake Miriam, and her 
mother, my friend Helweh, were both dead. The chUd had 
died first, and the mother shortly afterwards. Two of 
Saleh Beks sons were at the French College at Ant<ira, 
near Beirdt. 

One of our neighbours. Signer Luis Catafago, a widower, 
was the wealthiest and most influential of the Christian 
Arabs of H^ifa, and more learned in Arabic literature 
than any one in the Pashalic. He was well acquainted 
with Italian and French, and lived in semi-European 
style. His sons were brought up at college, and 
dressed like Europeans, though his little girls were quite 
oriental. He had married a second wife during our 
absence. She was a native of Damascus. The fame of 



380 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

her beauty and gentleness had gone forth throughout the 
land. Signer Luis determined to try to win her, so he 
journeyed to Damascus, carrying with him offerings of rich 
silks from the looms of .Lyons, wrought with gold, strings 
of pearls, and sprays of diamonds. He succeeded in his suit, 
and brought home Ms bride Hafeefee in triumph, to grace 
the largest establishment in Hdifa. The bridegroom was 
above sixty, and the bride about sixteen years of age. She 
had never had any intercourse with European or even semi- 
European society, but with natural grace she accustomed 
herself to her new life and her new home. 

I frequently visited her. She was the most perfect type 
I had met with of the truly Oriental Christian female 
aristocracy, quite untinged by European innovations. 
Moslem female aristocracy is of a very different, and far 
inferior order. It is comparatively barbarous in luxury 
and splendour. 

The face of the bride pleased me exceedingly. It was a 
pure oval, and of that creamy, golden complexion, which 
looked almost fair, relieved as it was by glossy black braids, 
long dark lashes and violet eyes. Her mouth was small and 
well formed. It is very unusual to see a refined-looking 
mouth among the Arab women ; girls often have prettily- 
shaped lips, but they almost invariably change in form and 
character in womanhood. 

The first time I called on Hafeefee, it was on a Christian 
ftte day. She was dressed in modem Damascus style. Her 
trousers were long and very full, made of bright rose- 
coloured silk, with. a narrow pattern wrought in gold down 
each side. Her jacket, which was short, and with tight 
sleeves, was of violet silk velvet, richly embroidered, and 
quite open in front, exposing a lUac crape shirt, which 
scarcely concealed her bosom. Eoimd the neck and down 
the front of this shirt, a sentence, invoking a blessing on 
the wearer, was worked in Arabic characters, with fine gold 
thread, forming a rich ornamental border of about two 
inches wide. She wore a necklace of very large oriental 
pearls, with a diamond cross hanging from it Her black 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTIIOI. S81 

hair was parted on one side, and divided into fourteen long 
straight Grecian plaits. Each plait was neatly intertwined 
and plaited with thick, black silk braid to add to its weight 
and length. The ends of the braid were finished off with 
little pendants of pearls and gold. 

Her head-dress consisted simply of a small piece of lilac 
crape tastefully arranged, and secured with sprays of 
diamonds and emeralds ^ad one rose-bud. Eound her 
waist she wore a fine white musUn shawl, embroidered with 
gold. She showed me her trousseau and her needlework. 
She was very skilful in all kinds of embroidery, and designed 
and drew her patterns herself with ta^te and precision. 
She used a tambour frame or stretcher, fixed to a stand, 
and very prettily made of dark wood, inlaid with mother- 
of-pearl and ivory. On ordinary days she wore French 
muslins or Manchester prints, but she invariably looked 
nice, and generally had a flower in her headdress, either a 
rose, a pink, or a bunch of everlastings. 

I almost always found her in her private room, seated on 
cushions on the floor, with her embroidery-frame before her, 
and her youngest step-daughter, Carmella, a beautiful child 
of about three years of age, rolling on the divan by her 
side. The child was always attended by a laughing, 
merry-looking African slave girl, gaily dressed in yellow 
or crimson, with gold coins round her neck, large rings- 
each one a potent protector from magic— on her fingers, 
bracelets of glass on her black bony arms, and tinkling 
ornaments round her ankles. She wore at the back of 
her head a shallow red cloth tarbouche, with a long blue 
silk tassel, secured by a gilt crescent. 

On the side of her broad nose a fine turquoise appeared. 
It was set in silver, and formed the head of a short, thick, 
blunt silver naU, which was fixed in a hole made for the 
purpose in the wing of her nose.* This girl always greeted 

* This is a common custom, and I have frequently seen poor girls 
insert cloves, instead of jewels, into these holes. An artificial clove made 
of gold, with a pearl to form the round part of it at the top, is a very favourite 
nose-jewel. Iliese nose^aUs are worn by the younger girls and are ver-*' 
fashionable, the elder women wear rings instead. 



382 BOMESTIO LIFB IN PALESTXNS. 

me with some droll speech, and invented stories and tales 
Tinceasiiigly, to amuse the childrea She greatly admired 
her young mistress, and seemed to regard her as her especial 
property, as something veiy precious, which she delighted 
to caress, to embellish, and to protect 

Sit Hafeefee could only speak Arabic, and had never 
learnt to read, but she was thoughtful, shrewd, and witty, 
and I always enjoyed her society. She was a member of 
the Latin GhurcL After she had been in H&ifa about one 
year, she said to me : " My sister, you must not form an 
opinion of the character and customs of Arab women 
generally, from what you see of them here and in this 
neighbourhood, for in my city, Damascus, and in Aleppo, 
they are much more civUized, although not Europeanized 
in the least degree. Here I find no companions like those 
I have left in Damascus. Here nearly aU the Arab women 
live like peasants, and are very ignorant. They tattoo and 
paint themselves barbarously. They wear heavy silver head 
ornaments, which are only fit to put upon the heads of 
horses. They do not keep their houses, themselves, or their 
children clean, I cannot associate with them; while the 
few who have had the opportunily of learning some 
European language, and have married into European or 
semi-European families, have almost ceased to be Arabs. 
They prefer Italian or French to the language which 
their mothers taught them, so from them also I feel 
separated." 

But there was happiness in store for Hafeefee. A little 
while afterwards her mother came from Damascus to stay 
with her, to help her to nurse her first-bom son Tusef. 
When I paid the visit of congratulation, I found the young 
mother almost silent with delight, but the grandmother 
was eloquent in praise of the little swaddled boy, asleep in 
a swing cradle made of walnut-wood, inlaid with ivory 
and mother-of-pearl, and curtained with fine muslin. The 
covering of the cradle was purple velvet, embroidered with 
gold thread. Hafeefee looked very pretty in her long blue 
cloth pelisse, lined and edged with light for, and she 



.% 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE: 383 

smiled brightly when she heard herself called, " ITm 
Yusef " — the mother of Joseph. "Peace be upon her." 

New Yeaf 8 Day was as usual a general holiday, visits 
and good wishes were being exchanged from early morning 
until sunset. On the first New Year's Day which I passed 
in Syria^ I was surprised to hear our servants, and the 
servants of our neighbours, and aU the Arabs of the poorer 
classes, greet us with the word "Bastreena!" I found it 
was a common custom on the <x)ast, and a present of a few 
piastres is always expected by the person who pronounces 
the word, and this is rarely refused. The custom is rather 
a tax upon people who hold a prominent position in 
Levantine towns. 

I could not guess the origin of the custom, or the mean- 
ing of the word. The Arabs said, "Allah knows where the 
word came from, it is very ancient, but it certainly is not 
genuine Arabic.'* I inquired among the Europeans, but 
they threw no light on the subject. But an " Essay on the 
Fine Arts," by E. L. Tarbuck, led me to believe that this 
cuLstom is a relic of pagan worship, and that the word 
"Bastreena" refers to the offerings which used to be made 
to the goddess Strenia. We could hardly expect that the 
Pagans who embraced Christianity could altogether abandon 
their former creeds and customs. Macaulay says : " Chris- 
tianity conquered Paganism, but Paganism infected Chris- 
tianity ; the rites of the Pantheon passed into her worship, 
and the subtleties of the Academy into her creed." Many 
Pagan customs were adopted by the new Church. T. Hope, 
in his "Essay on Architecture," says : ''The Saturnalia were 
continued in the Carnival^ and the festival with offerings to 
the goddess Strenia was continued in that of the New Year^ 
with the gifts called in France Strennes;'' to this I may add, 
that on the coast of Syria they are called "Bastreena!' The 
prefix " Ba " in Arabic signifies " on account of" — "for the 
sake of ''—"for "— « iy," &c. 

In AprU we visited Nazareth and its neighbourhood with 
Mr. J. Lewis Farley, who has given an account of the trip 
in his work on Syria. 



384 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE 

In July we went up to Esfia, a Druze village in the 
Carmel range. I remained there for a short time, to enjoy 
the cool fresh mountain air, and was very kindly enter-, 
tedned by the people. I had excellent opportunities of 
becoming acquainted with their peculiarities and modes 
of life ; but I hope to speak of these villagers minutely on 
some future occasion, in connexion with their co-religionists 
in the Lebanon and in the Haurdn. 

In August my brother went to Jerusalem, expecting to 
return in about a week, but he was detained on official 
business. I remained alone in H&ifa, and, as he had 
always allowed me to understand hi3 pursuits and the 
principles which guided him in all his proceedings, I had 
the pleasure of being able, during his absence, to act as 
his agent in most of his affairs. Eesponsibility and plenty 
of work prevented me from feeling either dull, lonely, or 
timid. I am glad to be able to testify to the respectful 
kindness and good feeling shown to me by the Arabs, both 
Christian and Moslem, and to the courtesy and friendliness 
of the Europeans, while I was thus alone. 

In November I went up to Jerusalem and spent the 
winter season there, at the English Hotel. It was a sad 
season for us, the Kev. J. Mcolayson was dead, Miss 
Creasy had been cruelly murdered, my friends at the 
Consulate were hopelessly watching over a suffering child, 
whose death they had to mourn before the close of the year. 
My brother was attacked by an alarming and dangerous 
fever, and in his delirium he was constantly taking leave 
of me, telling me that he was " dead," and could not rest 
until he knew that I was safe at home in England. But 
these dreadful days and nights passed away, and, thanks to 
the untiring attention and careful treatment of Dr. Edward 
Atkinson, the fever was subdued, and the new year com- 
menced auspiciously for us. 

I was surprised at* the severity of the cold in Jerusalem. 
Twice I saw the city shrouded with snow, but the sun soon 
melted it away, leaving only white fleecy wreaths on the 
northern sides of the domes and cupolas. There were a 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 385 

great many new buildings in course of erection outside the 
city. Large plots of land had been purchased by Bussia, 
France, and Austria, and foreign schools, hospices, and 
other institutions were being established. 

Our friend, Kainiel Pasha, was no longer there. Surreya 
Pasha had succeeded him. He was a man of an entirely 
different character. He had not so much sympathy with 
the Europeans. He was a strict Moslem, and kept the 
mosque and all the holy places religiously closed against 
unbelievers, and fostered a spirit of fanaticism. It was 
acknowledged, however, that he was in many respects a 
clever ruler, and an energetic and vigilant disciplhiarian. 
It was said that he never took bribes, but caused the taxes 
to be regularly enforced. They had been neglected by 
some of his predecessors, on the principle that ifc is easier 
to take bribes than to collect taxes. 

To facilitate the taxation of the citizens of Jerusalem he 
had caused all the houses to be numbered, and large Ambic 
numerals now appeared on the dooas. There was no division 
into streets or quarters, as in Euix^ean cities, but the 
figures commencing with units rose up to hundreds, untQ 
every dwelling, however obscure, had its especial mark. 
Then a careful record was made of the names of the owners 
and inmates. 

This was quite a novelty, and I was told that modem 
Jerusalem had never before been systematically numbered. 
The lower classes of Arabs regarded it as unlucky, and 
were strongly prejudiced against it ; others spoke of it as a 
very tyrannical proceeding. Isaiah, in 22d chap, and 10th 
verse, says reproachfully : " Ye have numbered the houses of 
Jerusalem" 

We left the Holy City in January, and rode over the 
hills of Judea and across the plain of PhiUstia, many parts 
of which were dangerous to pass through, for the water rested 
in large lagoons, and the earth was swampy; but our guide 
knew the road weU, and we reached Y&fa in safety, and in 
time for a Eussian steamer which conveyed us to H&ifa. 
Our little town was rising rapidly in importance, many 

CO 



386 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE* 

large houses had been built during the year, and outside 
the wall a hamlet was springing up, which was called by 
the Europeans the faubourg of Mount CarmeL A handsome 
church with a large cupola had just been completed for the 
Greek Catholic or Melchite congregation. 

The Eussian government had obtained a firman which 
granted them permission to make a jetty at Hdifa, and 
Signer Pierotti, an architect and engineer in the Eussian 
service, formerly Captain of Engineers in the Sardinian 
army, came to superintend the work, which gave employ- 
ment to a large number of people, and created a great 
deal of animation in the place. The jetty was made of 
wood, and cost the Eussian government upwards of three 
thousand pounds. There is not another such landing place 
on the coast of Syria. It was freely used by all people, 
and no tax or toll of any kind was imposed. 

A hospice adjoining the Greek church was in the mean- 
time erected. When these were finished Signer Pierotti 
went to Nazareth to superintend architectural works for 
the Greek church there. He is now architect to the Pasha 
of Jerusalem, 

When I inquired : " Why has the Eussian Government 
gone to the expense of building a jetty and a hospice here 
and another hospice at Nazareth ? " — ^Eussian employes and 
seemingly satisfied Turks answered — " It is for the benefit 
of Greek pilgrims who come every year in great num- 
bers to visit the holy places." But there were Europeans 
who shrugged their shoulders suspiciously and said: 
*' Perhaps this jetty is only built for the devotees of the 
Greek Church, but it would certainly, nevertheless, facili- 
tate the landing of troops. Perhaps the hospices are only 
erected to shelter pilgrims, but they would, for all that, 
make excellent barracks." The generality of the Arabs 
were quite satisfied, and said : " God is bountiful ; " and, 
*'The Franjees have long purses." Others said: "God 
knows what these things portend ! " and then they silently 
smoked their pipes. 

Eussian influence was increasing everywhere. A line of 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 387 

government steamers had been established on the coast of 
SyTi8^ and they called at HSifa twice a week. We thus 
frequently came into contact with Eussian captains and 
officers, and found them agreeable, well-educated and liberal- 
minded men. Throughout the country Bussia was well re- 
presented, and the consuls are almost invariably excellent 
linguists and independent of native interpreters. They thus 
avoid all those disputes and misunderstandings which arise 
out of the intrigues or the blunders of consular dragomen. 

The Emperor of Eussia had agents at work, eagerly 
investigating the ancient literary stores of Syria. For him 
the monasteries have been ransacked, and early manuscripts 
of the Gospels and of the Epistles have been brought to 
light. Through private Eussian enterprise the Samaritans 
have been induced to part with some valuable MS, copies 
of the Pentateuch. Of one of these MSS. a facsimile 
has been made, and it is now (1861) being multiplied by 
means of lithography at Jerusalem, by Dr. Levisohn, who 
has devoted himseK for some time to the study of Sama- 
ritan literature ; he can read this ancient and rarely acquired 
language as easily as Priest Amran the Levite can. Eussian 
gold has been freely spent in the prosecution of such works 
as these, works of world-wide interest, and by which all the 
public libraries of Europe will be enriched. Dr. Levisohn 
will no doubt eventually publish the discoveries he has 
made of certain variations in the Samaritan and Hebrew 
versions of the Laws of Moses, which have not yet been 
noticed by commentators.* 

In March, orders were issued for the thorough cleansing 
and sweeping of the chief streets of HSifa, that they might 
be in a fit state to receive His Eoyal Highness Prince 
Alfred, who had landed at Y&fa, and gone thence to Jeru- 
salem, Hebron, and to the Dead Sea or " Bahr Lutt," that 
is, the Sea of Lot He was journeying through the interior 

* In a letter dated Jerusalem, September 26th, 1861, I am told that 
" Dr. Levisohn's work is delayed for want of funds.** Will not the lovers 
of Oriental and ancient literature in Western Europe inquire into this 
matter, and asBut Dr. Levisohn to complete his undertaking ? 

cc2 



388 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

towards H&ifa to meet his ship, the Euryalus, which had 
been in port for several days. The Pasha of 'Akka ordered 
aU subordinate oflScers to hold themselves in readiness to 
go out with him to welcome the royal sailor-boy, who came 
fi'om Tiberias by way of Shefa 'Omer, and arrived at Hdifa 
before sunset on the 4th of April (1859) with the com- 
mander and some of the chief officers of the Eurycdus, 
attended by Mr. Finn, H.B.M. Consul, and my brother. 

The young Prince made a very favourable impression 
on all the people who were so happy as to see him in 
Syria. Every one had something to say in praise of his 
bright frank face, and clear, quick-seeing blue eyes, or 
some story to teU, illustrative of his good-nature and good 
sense. Those who accompanied His Eoyal Highness on 
his tour through Palestine, spoke of his love of fun, his 
brave, buoyant spirit, and his quickness of perception, but 
more particularly of his implicit and ready obedience to 
his governor and friend, Major Cowell. He was exceed- 
ingly active, and he very much enjoyed outdoor exercises 
and sports, and the freedom of tent life. He never sacrificed 
comfort to state, unless etiquette obliged him to do so. For 
instance, whenever a Muetzellim sent him a splendidly 
caparisoned horse, with a richly wrought and embossed 
saddle, he only mounted it for a few minutes, or on some 
special occasion, just to acknowledge the courtesy, for he pre- 
ferred his own plain English saddle. When he approached 
Hebron, he was riding, as a duty, in state, on one of the 
Pasha's favourite horses. Hundreds of people had assembled 
to do homage to him. He good-naturedly and cheerfully 
returned their greetings, then leaped from the gorgeous 
saddle, ran through the crowd to the spot chosen for the 
encampment, took up a large hammer, and began to drive 
in the pegs for the tent-ropes most lustily, greatly to the 
surprise of the stately Orientals. One of the ship's boats 
was conveyed by camels from Y§.fa to the Dead Sea, that 
His Eoyal Highness, who is very fond of boating, might 
have an opportunity of rowing on its heavy waters. He 
ako navigated the Lake of Tiberias. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 889 

On Wednesday, the 6th of April, the royal midshipman 
explored 'Akka, and then joined his ship to proceed to 
Beirut. He is the only English prince who has visited 
the Holy Land since the time of the Crusades. 

On Simday afternoon, April 17th, my brother and I were 
reading together at the Vice-Consulate, when suddenly we 
were disturbed by the abrupt entrance of a tall black slave 
and six Moslem boys. They closed the door of the room 
the moment they were all safe within it. They looked 
frightened, fatigued, and excited, as if they were seeking 
escape from some great danger. The boys caught hold of 
us, kissed our hands and our garments vehemently, and 
cried out : " Ya dakhaliek ! Ya dakhaliek ! " t. e, " Oh, savi- 
our/ " or " Ok, protector/ " I immediately perceived that 
the boys were the sons and nephews of Saleh Bek Abdul 
Hady. The slave who was with them explained, in a few 
hurried words, that Arrabeh was being besieged by Turkish 
troops, assisted by the Jerrar and Tokan factions, and that 
the Abdul Hady family had no hope of being able to 
defend the town, so Saleh Bek sent his young sons away, 
to seek an asylum in Haifa. The boys were fully per- 
suaded that they should be in safety, if they could only 
reach the English Vice-Consulate. They had met with 
many narrow escapes on the road. The slave concluded 
by saying: "Thank God, I have seen these children in 
safety under the roof of my lord, their protector ! " Then 
he hastened away, before we could answer him. 

The boys were very tired. They had crouched dowTi on 
the carpet, close to my side, and two of them had taken 
firm hold of my dress. They said : " Ya habeebee ! ya sittee 
Inglesi!" {0 beloved/ my English lady/) "you will 
protect us — you will not let them take us to prison — ^you 
will not send us away ! " 

They watched my brother's countenance anxiously, while 
he was speaking to me in English, for they did not know 
whether to hope or to fear. They said to me : " Speak to 
the Consul for us. Speak good words for us, lady ! " 

We ordered food to be immediately prepared for the 



390 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

boys. They heard the order given, and one of them ex- 
claimed : " We cannot eat till the Consul gives us hope of 
his protection." 

My brother then said : " I wiU do all I can for you, my 
boys ; eat now, and peace be upon you." 

While they were eating, my brother reminded me that 
it was against the law for him to interfere to protect a 
Turkish subject; but that, as these boys were too young to 
have oflFended personally, he decided on writing to his 
superiors in office, the Consul and Consul-General, to 
explain the circumstances, and to consult them on the 
subject. He added : " I will take care of the boys until I 
receive instructions how to act In the meantime, we may 
hope that Saleh £ek will be able to show that he is not 
implicated in this rebellion." 

This plan he at once carried out, and sent special mes- 
sengers to Jerusalem and Beir&t. Soon afterwards, as we 
expected, the Governor, with several soldiers, came to 
claim the boys as prisoners. My brother informed him of 
his decision, and the Governor politely withdrew, but a 
sentinel was placed to watch near the door of the Vice- 
Consulate, ready to take into custody any of the boys who 
might venture to go out. This watch was, however, aban- 
doned in a few days. 

We gave the boys the use of one room, and whenever 
we went out, they locked themselves in from the inside, 
and did not venture to open the door, till they heard our 
voices. When they knew that I only was at home, 
they used to say : " Perhaps the Governor will come, and 
try to make you give us up — but you will be firm for us, 
and sti*ong — ^you will not let him take us away to prison, 
even if he should ask for us ever so fiercely." They told 
me that their sister Asm^ died soon after her marriage, 
and they said : " Perhaps we alone of our family remain 
living." 

On Friday, the 22d, about midday, the sound of tum- 
tums, and loud shouts, attracted me to the window, and I 
shuddered on seeing a regiment of Turkish infantry march- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK l^ALESTINE. 39 1 

ing through Hdifa. They had come fix)m Arrabeh, The 
town had been taken, and these soldiers had had the pri- 
vilege of pillaging the place for an hour or more. It was 
said that they had secured some valuable jewelled pipes, 
ancient gold coins, necklaces, chains, head-dresses, and 
other valuables. They looked very barbarous and fierce, 
elated as they were with success and plunder. They had 
charge of a band of handcuffed prisoners from Arrabeh, 
who were to be conveyed to the galleys at 'Akka. 

The poor boys, after this sight, were more alarmed and 
distressed than ever, for we had not been able to ascertain 
with certainty the fate of their fathers, though it was said 
that they had escaped beyond Jordan. 

It was reported that the town had been quite destroyed, 
all the women and children barbarously murdered, and 
nearly all the men killed or taken prisoners. We did not 
discover, until some time afterwards, that this was, to a great 
extent, an Oriental exaggeration. The poor boys were left 
in terror, suspense, and doubt They could not tell whether 
they were orphans or no. The youngest boy, who was about 
ten or eleven, said to me one day : " If my father has been 
killed, God grant that I may live to be a strong man, that 
I may revenge his death/' It was diflftcult, sometimes, t© 
know how to soothe or answer the excited children. 

There were several other refugees from Arrabeh in town, 
but they were all soon taken prisoners, and conducted to 
'Akka. My little prot^g^s, or dakhiels as they were 
called, seemed to be forgotten. . My brother removed them 
to a neighbouring house, where they were taken care of by 
Moslems.* 

* Among Bedouin tribes there is an ancient law called the law of 
*' dakhal." An escaped prisoner, or a man in danger of being captured by 
an enemy, may by this law daim refuge in the teht of an Arab, even in 
the encampment of an opposing tribe. The refugee enters the tent, takes 
hold of the robe of the occupant, and exclaims : '* Ta dakhaliek,'* and thua 
becomes a " dakhiel ** or prot^g^. A true Arab will defend his *' dakhiel '* 
with his life. The law of *' dakhal " is, however, only in f uU force among 
those tribes who are, by their strength or geographical position, indepen- 
dent of the Turkish government. Among tribes in which the law is maiii- 



392 DOMESTIC UTE IK TALE&JUSK 

On Friday, May 6th, directly the post came in, my 
brother handed my packet to me, and then went out I 
was absorbed in letters from England, when suddenly, 
four of my proteges burst into the room, and jumped on to 
the broad divan, where I was seated. Two of them got 
behind me, and threw their arms over my neck, and the 
other two tried to cover themselves with the skirt of my 
dress. They were all crying and trembling violently, and 
could only say, sobbingly : " Ya dakhaliek ! ya dakhaliek 1 " 

Before I had learnt from them the cause of their new 
trouble, the Governor, attended by two military officers 
and several common soldiers, folly armed, entered the 
room. The boys actually shrieked with terror and despair, 
clinging to me more desperately than before. I half rose, 
and asked the Gk)vernor to take a seat by my sida The 
soldiers stood in a row before the door, and the officers sat 
near to them. After we had exchanged customary greet- 
ings, the Governor showed me an official order for the 
apprehension of the boys, who were crying so convulsively, 
that I could not help crying also ; and the Governor liim- 
self seemed affected. 

I said, as calmly as I could : " TeU me, my lord, to what 
place are these children to be taken?" He said: "To 
'Akka, to the presence of his excellency the Pasha, 
lady.'* The boys cried : " We will not go to 'Akka, unless 
our English lady, our protector, will go with us. You may 
kill us here, but you cannot take us from her." They said 
much more, which I could not understand ; for they spoke 
vehemently and rapidly, and all at once. 

I tried to calm them, and inquired where the other 
boys were. The eldest one said : " They are prisoners. 
We were together, when we heard the footsteps and the 
voices of the soldiers. We jumped out of a high window, 
into the street, to come to you — ^but our youngest brother 
fell, and broke his foot, so that he could not run — ^and he, 

tained, a man who proved false to his dakbiel would be disgraced for life. 
The expression " Ya dakhaliek " is used by town Arabs as a term of endear- 
ment, implying perfeot reliance and trust. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. §93 

and his cousin who staid to help him,, were taken away by 
the soldiers — but we escaped to this house." 

The Governor then spoke kindly to the children, saying : 
" Your brothers are quite safe. Come with me, and I will 
lead you to them. Do not think you are my prisoners ; I 
will be as a father to you, and you shall be my sons." But 
the boys refused to be comforted. They had heard that a 
reward had been offered for the capture of their fathers, 
dead or alive, and they had no faith nor hope in any 
Turkish ofiBcer. 

The Governor would willingly have saved them, had it 
been in his power, but, as he said, he was only acting as 
agent, and was bound to convey them all to ' Akka. 

I had already explained to the boys that my brother 
could only afford them conditional protection, but they 
had such unbounded and child-like confidence in my 
power and will to -take care of them, that they were filled 
with astonishment when I told them, as tenderly as I 
could, that they must submit to the Governor, and go with 
him. Their renewed tears and sobs quite overcame me. 
As I tried to disengage myself from their embraces, they 
prayed passionately that I would not forsake them. One 
boy said : " Ask the Governor to give our little brother to 
you. He is sick — let him be brought to you. Oh, my 
brother — ^my brother! " Another said : " Darling lady, do 
not let him take us away. Protect us — save us ! " 

They were stiU clinging to me. The Governor rose. 
There were tears in his eyes, and he said : " Lady, I cannot 
bear to see your sorrow," — ^then, to my great wonder, he 
took leave of me, spoke to the boys gently, and went out 
with all his attendants. Shortly afterwards my brother 
returned, and after speaking a few soothing words to the 
children, who were stiU sobbing, he said to me : " We will 
leave the boys here, while we breakfast." So I went with 
him unsuspiciously into an adjoining room. We had not 
been seated many minutes, when I heard the tramp of 
soldiers in the court of the house. I looked out, and saw 
the poor boys being led away down the steps. They were 



894 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALE8TIKE. 

ciying sadly, but offering no resistance. The Gk>vemor 
himself led the eldest boy with gentle firmness, and the 
younger boys were conducted one by one by the soldiers. 
I looked on in silence, and they did not see me again. My 
brother then told me that he had received by post an order 
to give up the boys, and had hoped to be able to execute it 
without my knowledge. It was chiefly in anticipation of 
this order that he had removed the boys from the Vice- 
Consulate, that I might not see them made prisoners. He 
added : " When I came in just now, I met the Governor ; he 
seemed quite disturbed, and said : '0 Mr. Sogers, I beg 
you to cheat your sister for us. The Abdul Hctdy boys are 
with her J and I cannot take them from her. Her sorrow is 
too great for me. Cheat her; and let the boys be left alone, 
and I will come again for them.^ *' 

On hearing this, I begged to be allowed to speak a word 
to the Governor. My brother did not object, so I sent a 
kawass to ask him to come to me for a minute, before 
starting for *Akka. He kindly came, and I inquired 
seriously what he expected would be the fate of the boys. 
He said : " Because of their youth, and because they are of 
a high family, 1 think they will be gently treated, and held 
only till they shall be redeemed. I wHl myself conduct 
them to the Pasha, instead of sending them with the 
soldiers, and I will in your name speak in their behalf" 
I said : " Will you let me have news of them as soon as 
possible?" He promised to do so, and kept his word. In 
a few days, a horseman came from 'Akka to greet me, in 
the name of the Pasha, to assure me that the boys were 
in good health, were well fed, and well lodged in an apart- 
ment of the seraglio, and though they were not allowed to 
go outside the city, or even into the streets, they walked 
every day on the ramparts as much as they pleased, — ^they 
were detained simply as hostages, and were treated almost 
as guests. His Excellency wished me to know that he had 
given them each new tarbouches, new shoes, and changes 
of under and outer garments, and had sworn by the life 
of his son that not a hair of their heads should be hurt 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. S95 

I received several messages afterwards, all to the same 
effect* 

At this time we were busy making preparations for a 
visit to England. We had made arrangements to spend 
the summer months there ; but when all was in readiness 
for the trip, the vice-consul found he could not leave his post, 
and I was obKged to make up my mind to travel by myself, 
for loud voices were calling to me from my English home. 

All the Austrian steamers had been recalled, to swell 
the Austrian fleet ; so my brother planned to take me to 
Beirftt by a Bussian steamer, and then to place me on 
board an English merchant steam-ship bound for England. 

Hann4 my Arab maidservant, an affectionate girl of 
seventeen or eighteen, who had been with me nearly three 
years, begged earnestly to go with me, and when I ex- 
plained that I could not take her, she said with pas- 
sionate and impetuous eloquence : " Why did you make 
me love you, if you meant to leave me ? Why did you 
take me from my mother, and teach me to like the life 

* To make this incident more clear, I must explain that Mahmoud £ek 
Abdul Hady, after liaving been displaced on account of serious complaints 
made a^^ainst him, had in 1858 been re-appointed to the governorship of 
NabltLs by the late Koorsheed Pasha, for the consideration, it is said, of a 
large bribe paid at the Serai. But in January, 1859, Mahmoud was 
arrested without opposition and sent to Beiriit, and Riza Bey, a Turk, 
succeeded him. In April a military expedition was sent to Arrabeh to 
arrest all the leaders and factious members of the Abdul Hady family, 
and aU those who were implicated in the Nabliis riots of 1856. The 
people resisted, and the town was besieged by the Turkish troops, assisted 
by two opposing and equally notorious factions. It is the Turkish policy 
to set one interest against another, and affairs become very complicated 
when at one time the troops are fighting for and with a faction, and a few 
months afterwards are employed to fight against it. The town of Arrabeh 
was not so much injured as we had at first been led to belieye, the upper 
chambers only were demolished, and they were broken down by masons 
employed by the Turkish officers, because these upper chambers, with 
their battlemented terraces, which formerly made the town appear so 
picturesque, had been used as fortresses by the besieged. (See p. 216.) 
The power of the Abdul Hady faction is for the present destroyed. The 
leaders are banished, but Saleh Bek and some others who had not been 
active agents in the a£fair, have been restored to favour, and the children, 
my prot^g^s, have been restored to their parents. 



396 DOMESTIO LIFE IN PALE8TINS. 

of the Inglese, if you must send me away to live like 
an Arab again? I cannot live with Arabs any more." 
I had not attempted to teach her English, and she had 
only acquired three or four words. She had not in any 
respect changed her mode of dress, but had learned to 
appreciate neatness and order, and could not bear the idea 
of the uneven floors of earth and the unplastered and 
smoke-blackened walls of the houses of the poorer class 
of Arabs. 

I reasoned with her, and showed her how happy she 
might make an Arab home, and how she could render me 
a much greater service by remaining in H&ifa than by 
accompanying me to England. 

On June 2d she came to my bedside, before sunrise, 
and awoke me, saying : " Ya dakhaliek, ya habeebee ! — ^the 
steamer is here, and the day of our separation has come ! " 

A number of our friends had already congregated at the 
Vice-Consulate, to say good-bye, and an English traveller 
had come down from the convent to accompany us to 
Beirftt. - 

We were soon by the seaside, in the midst of a noisy 
crowd of boatmen, kawasses, porters, and heaps of lug- 
gage ; for the French and Prussian Vice-Consuls x>i Hllifa, 
and the Pfere Vicaire of the Convent of Mount Carmel, 
were going with us. 

I went oflf in the first boat, with Hann^ and a few 
friends. I was anxious to hasten to the steamer, as I 
knew that Miss Frederica Bremer was on board. I soon 
found her in the salocJn, and though we knew each other 
only by correspondence, we required no introduction. It 
was a great pleasure to clasp her hand, and to hear her 
voice. She speaks English distinctly, but with a musical 
foreign accent. 

I was in earnest conversation with her, when my maid, 
who was by my side crying, murmured : " Who is that 
stranger who is stealing from me my last moments with 
you ? If she is not your mother, how can you look so glad 
whUe I am so full of sorrow ? " 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 397 

I soothed her by saying : " The lady is a stranger here ; 
she is my friend, and is travelling quite alone, she will 
land presently at HS,ifa with you. For my sake you must 
try to help her. You, with the kawass, will lead her to 
the house of Dr. Koelle, where a room has been made 
ready for her." 

With her usual impulsiveness, she kissed Miss Bremer's 
hand, saying : " I am your servant, lady." 

In about an hour I took leave of my H^ifa friends, with 
the expectation of seeing them again in a few months, and 
it was with conflicting emotions that I watched the little 
boats going towards the shore as we steamed out of the 
Bay. The deck of the steamer was crowded with Eussian 
and Greek pilgrims — men, women, and children — ^who had 
spent the Easter week in the Holy City, and to their great 
consolation had bathed in the waters of the river Jordan. 
In the pleasant airy saloon there were several passengers, 
French, Italian, Prussian, and Swiss, most of whom I knew, 
but there were no ladies. 

Soon after we had started the captain of the steamer came 
to me and said, speaking in French: *' Mademoiselle, to-day 
is the fSte day of our Grand Duke Constantine — ^with your 

permission the Bishop of will celebrate it, and we 

shall be happy if you will assist at the servica" 

Immediately afterwards, four Greek priests in black 
robes came in, and spread " a fair linen cloth " over a table 
at the end of the saloon, and placed on it a quaint old 
Byzantine picture, representing some sacred subject. The 
nimbus round the head of the principal figure was of gilt 
metal, and there were several precious stones introduced in 
the clasps and decorations of the dresses. 

The priests handled this picture with great reverence. 
They propped it up carefully, and placed in front of it a 
silver basin filled with holy water, and three large silver 
candlesticks, in which gilt and ornamented wax candles 
were fixed and lighted. 

The captain and officers in fuU uniform, the sailors, the 
steward and waiters, and the first-class passengers stor 



398 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

in a group together at the lower end of the saloon, facing 
the impromptu altar. 

Then a Bussian bishop and an archdeacon entered They 
were powerful and earnest-looking men, and were robed as 
gorgeously as if they were about to celebrate service in a 
cathedral 

They each had long brown wavy hair, which was parted 
in the middle, and hung down in front so as to unite with 
their moustaches and their thick beards. 

They knelt down side by side in front of the picture 
with their heads uncovered. One of the attendant priests 
placed a large missal before the bishop, who read the 
prayers and the Gospel and Epistle for the day in the Rus- 
sian language ; then a second priest prepared a censer and 
swung it, while the archdeax^n chaunted a litany. He 
commenced softly and plaintively in a minor key, but 
suddenly changed the melody to one of a more cheerful 
but very simple measure, and the concluding portions were 
like shouts of joy and triumph. The responses were very 
heartily made, especially by the sailors, and the sounds, 
evidently familiar, were caught up and echoed by the three 
hundred devotees on deck. 

The bishop concluded the service by pronouncing a 
general benediction. He held in his hand a little cross 
carved out of a piece of the rock of the hill on which the 
city of Jerusalem stands. It is a rather soft stone, and is 
about the colour of Sienna marble. The captain solemnly 
advanced and knelt down to kiss this cross, then the bishop 
dipped a finger of his right hand into the holy water, 
and with it made the mark of the cross on the broad, 
smooth, reverential forehead of the still kneeling captain. 

All the officers in turn, and then the sailors went forward 
with earnest simplicity and devotion to claim this benedic- 
tion, and Mons. Aumann and several of our fellow-passen- 
gers — although they belonged to the Latin and other 
Churches — followed the example. Then the bishop went 
out on to the deck to give his blessing to the pilgrims 
there, and to let them kiss the cross, while the priests were 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 899 

sprinkling them with holy water, and swinging the censers. 
When the bishop passed through the kneeling crowd, the 
pUgrims pressed the hem of his robes to their lips, and 
looked up to him as if they regarded him as an angel from 
heaven. 

Then followed a material feast. Large cans of meat and 
soup, and loaves of bread, were distributed to all the deck 
passengers, in the name and for the sake of the Grand 
Duke ConstantiBe, the Emperor's brother — ^while the first- 
class passengers were invited by the captj^in to partake of 
a champagne dijedner a lafourchette. 

The temporary altar was quickly removed, the picture 
was hung in its customary place at the en^ of the saloon.* 
The table was soon spread with fruit and flowers, taste- 
fully arranged. The captain led me to a seat by his 
side, and the rest of the company followed. We were 
twenty-two altogether, including the bishop and arch- 
deacon. A very recherchS Eussian breakfast was served. 
The made dishes, which were numerous, were composed of 
curious combinations, and those which I tasted were 
piquante but peculiar. 

A toast for the Grand Duke was proposed, and the cap- 
tain requested my brother to start an English cheer for 
his imperial highness, and hip ! hip ! hurrah ! resounded 
again and again through the saloon, echoed by Eussian, 
French, Prussian, Swiss, and Italian voices, which mingled 
strangely together, with varied accentuations; and the 
pilgrims, on hearing, or guessing the meaning of the 
cry, repeated it as well and as noisily as they could. 

[I observed that nearly every one at the table spoke 
French fluently, but I think the only foreigner present who 
understood English was the learned linguist. Dr. Eosen, 
the Prussian consul of Jerusalem.] 

After a few other loyal toasts and complimentary 
speeches, in which the Alliance was particularly alluded 
to, the piano was opened, and the national anthems of 

* Pictures of patron saints, or of the holy family, are invariably seen in 
the saloons and cabins of Russian steamers. 



400 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

Bussia, England, France, and Turkey were sung in chorus, 
while I played the accompaniments. 

We arrived at Beirftt in the afternoon, and when we 
took leave of the captain and the ship's officers they 
assured us they had never had such a pleasant passage on 
the Syrian coast 

We went to the Hotel de Belle Vue with our English 
fellow-traveller. From the lofty terrace, after sunset, I 
saw the Eussian steamer brilliantly illuminated. Its general 
form was completely marked out by lines of light, and 
fireworks were thrown in rapid succession from the deck, 
while, from the residences of some of the Greek merchants 
in town, rockets^ were rushing and whizzing high into the 
purple night sky, and showers of stars were falling, all in 
honour of the Grand Duke Constantine. His Imperial 
Highness had been recently travelling in Syria with the 
Grand Duchess and a large suita 

The next morning I was in a pleasant, many-windowed 
room, surrounded by oleanders and roses in full blossom, 
and trees covered with large white bell flowers. 

I was comparing sketches and notes of travel with an 
English tourist, when my brother entered to tell me that he 
had taken a passage for me in the Demetritis, a merchant 
steamer bound for liverpooL I found it rather difficult to 
keep up my courage. We went on board the following 
afternoon, Saturday, June 4. I was introduced to the 
captain, a good-natured, rough Sunderland sailor. I was 
the only cabin passenger, and although I was on my 
way home, I felt strangely desolate when my brother 
liad taken leave of me, and we steamed away from the 
shores of Syria; but I was determined to try to enjoy the 
voyage, and I soon made friends with the captain, who 
seemed almost frightened at first of the responsibOily of 
having me in his charge, and was nervously anxious to 
make me comfortable. I asked him if he had any books. 
He said : " Only ships' books, Miss — ^none that a young lady 
'ud care to read.*' However, he showed them to me, and I 
found that they were very interesting guides to the Medi- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 401 

terranean shores, explanatory of the large charts with which 
the captain was provided "When he saw how pleased I 
was with these, he was at home with me directly, for he 
was an enthusiastic and practical seaman. He took pains 
to point out how we were steering, and to make me under- 
stand some of the principles of navigation. He showed 
me all his nautical instruments, and explained their uses, 
and promised to let me see him take his observations every- 
day. On Sunday we were out of sight of land, the cap- 
tain made a divan for me of cushions, covered with a 
Union Jack, tmder an awning on the quarter-deck. 

There was a very steady, orderly set of sailors on board. 
One of the mates, a seK-educated man, spent all his 
leisure time in studying the rudiments of French, so I had 
the pleasure of helping him over a difficulty now and then. 

On Monday morning, the 6th of June, we anchored in 
the port of Alexandria, where the Demetrius had to take in 
a cargo of cotton. Here all the deck passengers landed, 
with the exception of one man, a Jew of Aleppo, who was 
bound for liverpooL The Captain wished to give him some 
directions one day, while we were oflf Alexandria, but found 
that he could not make himseK understood, so he requested 
me to act as interpreter. I went out on to the deck, and 
approached the solitary Syrian, whom I had not before 
observed for he had occupied the other end of the ship. 
He was a man of about thirty years of age, and appeared 
very intelligent, but extremely timid. His dress, which was 
scrupulously clean, was of tiie kind usually worn by re- 
spectable town Arabs. When I was near to him, I said 
in Arabic: "God save you!" He started with astonish- 
ment, and, bowing down, kissed my hands vehemently, ex- 
claiming: " God bless you, and God bless the voice which 
speaks to me in Arabic ! I thought I was left here alone !" 
When he found that I was going all the way to Liverpool, 
he said fervently : " Thank God ! Thank God ! This is 
good ! " After telling him, in the captain's name, that a 
sheltered sleeping-place had been prepared for him in the 
fore-part of the ship, I entered into conversation with him, 

D D 



402 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

and found that he was going to some Syrian merchants at 
Manchester, to whom he had been recommended, but he 
had never seen any of them, and knew no one in England. 
He asked me how he was to find his way from Liverpool, 
and begged me to help him; he made many inquiries, 
which proved that he had no idea of the wide difference 
which there is between life in the East and life in the 
West He did not know a word of English, He wrote his 
name," Shaayea'^ (that is, Isaiah) '^Ateyas^ in Arabic cha- 
racters in my pocket-book, and a day or two afterwards 
I wrote for him, in English and Arabic orthography, the 
names of the three Manchester merchants of whom he 
had spoken. I also gave him a letter of introduction 
to a Syrian gentleman of LiverpooL From this time, 
whenevei* I was on deck reading, studying the charts, or 
sketching, Shaayea was by my side, and always watched 
impatiently for my appearance, greeting me with the words : 
" Ya dahhaliek^^ my protectress. He appeared to me to 
be a very good Hebrew scholar. He had several printed 
books and MSS. with him, and sometimes, at my request, 
he translated passages from the Hebrew Pentateuch into 
Arabic literally. Thus the time passed pleasantly. We 
did not leave the Port of Alexandria till the 10th, for the 
Demetrius had, on the 7th, been struck by the Meander, a 
French steamer. Our figure-head and largest anchor were 
carried away, and the chief mast was snapped in two. 
The upper half fell on to the quarter-deck, where I was 
sitting alone. It came down as steadily as the funnels of 
the steamers do, when they stoop to pass imder the London 
bridges, and so slowly, that I had time to watch it and 
move out of its way. The collision was very violent, the 
head of the Demetrius was lifted up on to the Meander and 
lodged there for about twenty minutes, causing great agita- 
tion and alarm, and a running to and fro on the decks of 
both the steamers. The mate said: " The Meander has hurt 
herself almost as much as she has hurt us. Miss ! '* The 
case was amicably arbitrated, the necessary repairs were 
quickly made, and the Demetri%is proceeded on her way. 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 403 

We reached Malta on the 14th, and passed through the 
Straits of Gibraltar on the 21st. * I had seen the Mediter- 
ranean sometimes smooth and blue under a burning sun, 
and at other times ploughed into deep dark furrows which 
seemed as if they would swallow us up — a strong west 
wind had prevailed for many days. 

I observed that Eabbi Shaayea was by this time looking 
iU and weak. I think the food which he took was not 
Buflftcient. He had brought provisions with him, for he 
could not eat food prepared by Christians, and he had 
nothing but bread and Aleppo conserves, lemons, coffee 
and tobacco. I tried to induce him to kill a fowl and cook 
it himself, but he said he could not, because he had not a 
properly prepared slaughtering-knife. I asked him if there 
was any kind of food we could give him, which it would 
be lawful for him to eat. He only answered : " I have plenty 
of bread, it is sufficient for me.'* 

The captain was very anxious on the subject, and often 
said, in his good-natured bluff way: "I don't like to see a 
man starving while there's plenty of good food to be had;" 
and one day, as he was assisting himself to pea-soup, he 
exclaimed: " I wish you could get ' Solomon' to take some 
o' this soup. Miss — ^but I suppose it smells too much o' the 
pork !" 

On the 23d we were off Lisbon, and directly I went on 
deck Shaayea came to me, threw himseK on his knees, and 
caught hold of my dress, crying pitifully. I raised him 
up, and said: "Why is your heart trembling, Shaayea?" 
He looked terrified, and replied: "The sailors will kill 
me. They will kill me. I am afraid of them 1 " I said : 
" TeU me quietly Shaayea, has any one hurt you ? " He 
whispered: "I am frightened." I said: "Indeed, Shaayea, 
you have nothing to fear, I can protect you. Tell me what 
has happened." He took out his clasp-knife and opened 
it, and made signs as if he meant to say that he feared the 
sailors would cut his throat I said: " Put away that knife 
and answer me plainly Shaayea, Did any one on this ship 
ever hurt you, or try to hurt you?" He said: " No — but 

D D 2 



404 DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINB. 

they say dreadful words to me — they curse me!" I 
answered: " How do you know that they speak bad words, 
Shaayea ? you do not understand their language. Tell me 
what they say?** He was about to answer, but he looked 
cautiously round, and seeing that a sailor was near, busy 
at work, he would not speak, but took my pencil out of 
my hand, and wrote on the fly-leaf of a Hebrew and 
Italian grammar, the Arabic letters which represent the 
sounds, " J. A. K." I thought he intended this for some 
Arabic word, and I pronounced it accordingly, and said: 
** I do not think I have ever heard that word, what does it 
mean?" He answered: "Hush, lady! it is not Arabic, 
it is English." Then the signification of the word, which 
looked so unfamiliar in Arabic orthography, flashed into 
my mind, and I could not help smiling, as I uttered the 
word "e/aci," with its true English accent. He exclaimed: 
" Yes, yes, lady, that is the word with which they con- 
tinually curse me." " Eabbi," I replied, " this is not a 
curse, it is not a bad word, * Jack * is the English way of 
saying * Yuhanna! The sailors do not know your name is 
Shaayea Ateyas, so they call you * Jack,* and they would 
call me by the same name perhaps if I were a boy." He 
seemed satisfied, and was more composed. He smoked a 
few cigarettes silently, as he watched my pencil while I 
made sketches of the beautiful town of Cintra. But the 
next morning the captain said to me : " Solomon wants to 
speak to you I think. Miss — he looks so miserable, and is 
watching at the door." So I went out to him before taking 
breakfast. I found him more distressed than ever. He 
told me that the sailors had called out to him : " HaUo, 
Jack ; ** and all my attempts to reassure him were in vain. 
He felt convinced it was a curse which they pronounced. 
He asked me if I had felt afraid when I was first left alone 
among strangers on this ship, he added: "I saw the Consul 
leave you. Were you not afraid then?" I said: "No, 
Shaayea, I was sorry to leave my brother, but not afraid ; 
we are quite safe here." He answered: "You are safe, 
because you are among your own people ; but I am a Jew, 



'- VI vi 



DOMESTIC LIFE IK PALESTINE. 405 

and the Christian sailors curse me loudly/* I tried to 
convince him to the contrary, adding : " The Christians of 
England love the Jews, and our country is governed and 
our laws are made jointly by Jews and Christians. We 
have Jews in our Medjlis, and people of all creeds and 
coimtries are safe with us;" but he refused to be comforted. 
After this he would not go to the forepart of the ship, 
but kept as near as he could to me all day, and at night 
slept in a nook between some bales of cotton, which were 
covered with tarpauling, and stood opposite to the cabin- 
door. The captain kindly overlooked this breach of order, 
and allowed him to do as he liked. 

I perceived that Shaayea's timidity and weakness increased 
every day, but his confidence in me, individually, was un- 
bounded. *' Where are you going after you land at liver- 
pool ?" he inquired. " To my parents in London," I said. 
" Then I will also go to London, I will go with you," was 
his answer. 

I told him this would not be possible, and advised him 
not to think of altering his arrangements, saying : *^ Before 
you left Aleppo, you no doubt made your plans carefully, 
and now you must persevere in carrying them out. You are 
weak and timid from want of proper food and rest, but you 
will soon be strong and happy again when you are with 
your fellow-countrymen in Liverpool and Manchester." I 
had asked the captain and mates to use their influence 
with the saUors, to prevent them from startling Shaayea in 
any way, especially with the terrible word *'Jack** I also 
spoke to them on the subject, but although there was an ex- 
ceedingly good feeling shown towards the poor fellow by all 
the men, this injunction was naturally regarded as a joke. 
However, I believe care was taken to avoid the word, though 
when sails were being taken in, or hoisted hastily, an occa- 
sional " Now Jackl^ or " Out o' the way Jcxk" escaped the 
most cautious and kindhearted. Shaayea continued to 
express an overwhelming fear of the sailors, and told me 
how, whenever a Jew is alone among Christians, he is sure 
to be murdered, relating instances which he said had 



406 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESIINIL 

occurred in Aleppo and Damascus. I tried in vain to 
inspire him with courage and hope. The captain^ who 
invariably called him " Solomon," used often to greet him 
good-naturedly, but always in a very loud voice, and gene- 
rally in broken English, with a word or two of French 
which he happened to know, as if he had the idea that in 
addressing a foreigner, it was only necessary to speak very 
loudly, and in some foreign language. 

It was this habit, I believe, which caused Sheiayea erro- 
neously to imagine that the captain was angry with him. 
He used often to exclaim : " I pray you, lady, ask the 
captain to forgive me!" and at my request the captain 
sometimes came out to comfort him, when he would tap 
him on the shoulder and say : " All right old fellow, you 
not enough mangezl'^ or, if it were in the evening, he 
would say : " Cheer up Solomon, it's aU right, you'll be 
better to-morrow, Dormez! BormjezT^ On the eveniDg of 
the 25th of June, Shaayea startled me by declaring himself 
a Christian. I said : " Shaayea, for what reason do you say 
you are a Christian?" He astonished me still more by 
answering: " For the sake of the Messiah," and added, " Tell 
the captain, I pray you, that I am a Christian, and then he 
will not be angry with me any more." I said : " I assure 
you Shaayea^ the captain is not, and never has been angry 
with you, and whether you are Moslem, a Christian, or a 
Jew, you are as safe in his ship, as if you were in your 
home at Aleppo, and if you could understand his language 
you would know how kind he is." But he urged me 
still, and J consented to tell the captain what he had said, 
though I could very clearly see that he was only prompted 
to make this declaration by excessive and ill-grounded fear. 
I did all I could to inspire him with confidence. I re- 
minded him of the courage of David, and of Daniel, when 
they were in real danger, and of their trust in God. I told 
him he might take food from us without doing violence to 
his conscience by calling himself a Christian, I said : " I 
think, if Eabbi Moossa himself could speak to you, he 
would say : ' Peace be upon you, Shaayea — eat that you 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PAUESTINB. 407 

may Uve/" I added, "Eemember how David and his 
attendants, when they where hungry, did eat even of the 
consecrated bread/* He said : " God bless you, my pro- 
tectress." Soon afterwards he took a cup of coffee from the 
steward, as he had frequently done before, and smoked a 
cigarette. He seemed more peaceful than usual when I 
wished him good night 

The next day, Sunday the 26th of June, when I saw 
Shaayea, I did not refer in any way to the conversation of 
the previous night, for fear of exciting him, but I led him 
to speak of general subjects, such as the commerce, the 
products, and the manufactures of Northern Syria, and 
asked him to teach me the Hebrew alphabet. This amused 
him for a little time, and while I read to myself, he sat 
near smoking, reading silently from a Hebrew Psalter. 
We had crossed the Bay of Biscay, and in the evening we 
stood by the cabin door, watching the sun go down, red 
and glorious behind the dark clouds which seemed to rest 
upon the broad Atlantic. Shaayea said that he was soriy 
that the night had come, and then complained of feeling 
very low-spirited, and very tired of the journey. I told 
him that after one more day we should land at Liverpool, 
and I gave him my London address, saying that he might 
write to me from Manchester to tell me how he was, whe- 
ther he liked England, and to let me know if I could help 
or serve him in any way. He kissed my hands and cried, 
as if from extreme weakness* The captain requested mo 
to advise Shaayea to rest that night in a sheltered place, as 
there was a heavy swell on the sea, and he would be likely 
to get wet if he remained in an exposed part of the deck. 
I explained this to Shaayea, but he said : " I cannot go to 
the other end of the ship, I am afraid." He seemed very 
much agitated, and when the captain was going to his 
cabin, Shaayea caught hold of him, and kissed his hands 
and his feet vehemently, but the captain raised him up 
and said: " Come Solomon, no more o' that, cheer up, be a 
man ! Dormez ! Dormez !" 

He asked for an effervescing draught, and I requested 



408 JDOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

the steward to bring one for him, and he did so ; Shaayea 
had taken one a few days before. . 

At half-past nine or ten o'clock, I said : " It is late Shaayea, 
you must go to rest now ! Peace be upon you ! " He 
said: "Good night, my protectress." I answered, "A 
hundred good nights to you, Shaayea I" He took off his 
red morocco slippers, and placed them carefully side by 
side on a ledge, and then crawled into his favourite nook 
between the cotton bales, and covered himself with his 
wadded quilt I never saw poor Shaayea again ! On the 
following morning, as soon as I opened my door, I called 
to the steward and said : " How is Solomon this morning, 
steward ?" He answered very sadly : " I don't know. Miss ; 
he's missing." I said: "What do you mean steward ?" He 
replied: "Why, Miss, the captain has been looking every- 
where for him, and can't find him — and he's in a dreadful 
way — he's looked in every hole and corner. Miss, except in 
your cabin ! " 

On fully realizing these startling words, I re-entered my 
cabin which contained two berths. I had always used the 
lower one as a wardrobe, and I drew its little red curtains 
aside with a trembling hand, hoping intensely, and yet 
fearing that I should find Shaayea there, but it was not so. 
The captain entered at this moment, looking very much 
agitated. He told me that he had searched every nook in 
which a cat could be hidden. He said he had never lost 
man or boy, under any circumstances on his ship, and he 
did not know what to do. I said: " Who saw Shaayea last ?" 
On inquiry we found that one of the sailors who had been 
aloft in the night, remembered to have seen Shaayea at 
about midnight, leaning against the ship's side, bej'^ond the 
foremast. He thought it rather strange, for he had never 
seen Shaayea in that part of the ship before, but as he did 
not suspect anything wrong he took no further notice. No 
one else could give any tidings about him! I noticed that 
Shaayea's slippers were exactly where I had seen him place 
them on the previous night. 

Every one looked sad and thoughtful. The general im- 



DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 409 

prei&sioii was that Shaayea had thrown himself overboard, 
but I told the captain that a Jew was not likely to commit 
suicide, and I suggested that some accident might have 
happened to him. He begged me to go round the ship 
with him that I might judge for myself whether there was 
any place from which a passenger could fall into the sea 
"accidentally. After examining every part carefully, and 
making minute inquiries, I reluctantly came to the conclu- 
sion that poor Shaayea had through excessive fear and an 
excited imagination lost his self-control, and had either 
voluntarily or unconsciously thrown himself into the sea.* 

All Shaayea's property was collected together, I assisted 
the captain to make an inventory of it and then it was 
put under lock and seal 

We arrived at the Liverpool docks on Tuesday morning, 
June 28th. I had an interview with the quarantine officer, 
and after having entered the name of the ''missing'' deck 
passenger in his book in Arabic and in English, I hastened 
up to London. 

An official inquiry was made into the history of Eabbi 
Shaayea's disappearance, by order of the Turkish consul at 
Manchester, and as it was soon known that I was the only 
person on board who had conversed with the poor fellow, I 
was called upon to state all that I knew about him. I had 
kept a careful journal on the way, and was consequently 
able to furnish an account, which eventually satisfied the 
inquirers that the balance of Shaayea*s mind had been 
destroyed, by his continual anxiety and groundless fears. 
I signed a solemn declaration of the above facts in the 



* I did not know that emotional disturbance was the cause and con- 
dition of insanity, or I should certainly have kept a continual and careful 
watch over poor Shaayea, but I never suspected that he was in any real 
danger, I was strongly reminded of his overwhelming dread of imagined 
dangers while reading lately the very important fact, that " the common 
causes of insanity are such as produce emotional changes, either in the 
form of violent agitation of the passions or that chronic state of abnormal 
emotion which pronounces itself in the habitually exaggerated force of some 
one passion or desire, whereby the healthy balance of the mind is at length 
destroyed." See Bucknill's Psychology of Shakspere,p. 183. Longman, 1859. 



J? 



4J0 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE. 

presence of a magistrate, whose signature was certified by 
the Turkish consnl-^general in London, and a full report of 
the case was made to the Ottoman Government. 

The history of poor Shaayea, and many somewhat similar 
circumstances which I had witnessed, prove to me that the 
oriental Jews still regard blessings and curses with great 
awe. Even a blessing pronounced by mistake was declared 
by Jacob to be irrevocable, and Balak entreated Balaam to 
" curse the people of Israel," as if he thoroughly believed 
that a curse would act as a charm, and alter and determine 
the course of events. Shaayea's case is one example, out of 
many which I could give, of the excessive fear with which 
Christians are regarded by oriental Jews, especially by the 
Jews of Northern Syria. This is a sad and striking proof 
that the Christianity of the East is not the world-embracing, 
harmonizing Christianity which Christ taught. 



INDEX. 



Ablutions, 183, 185, 210, 223. 
Abrahlm Sakhali, 166. 
Abrahlm Jerrar, 287—243. 
Abu Ghaush, 19, 64, 837. 
AbvssiniAn servants and slaves, 36, 

65, 377. 
AfricaH foot messenger, 193. 
African maniac, 108. 
AMel Agha, 178. 
Amran the Samaritan Priest, 244 — 

277. 
Angelina, the bride-dresser, 94 — ^97. 
Ankit&r and the Crusades, 180. 
Aqueducts, 55, 56, 259. 
Annenian remedies for Cholera, 146. 
Arrabeh, 216—236, 389—395. 
Arrival at Jerusalem at midnight, 286. 
Arrival of a piano at H&ifa, 351. 
Art and poetry of the modem Arabs, 

338. 

B. 

Bajeh, a few days at the, 375. 
Bastreena, new year's gifts, 388. 
Battlemented house-tops, Deut. xxii. 

3 ; 826, 395. 
Bazaars and shopkeepers of H&ifa, 99. 
Bazaars and shopkeepers of Jerusa- 
lem, 31, 32. 
Bazaars and shopkeepers of Nabltls, 

260. 
Bazaars and shopkeepers of Yilfa, 8. 
Bedouin adoption of a Jewish orphan 

boy, 347. 
Bedoiun bread-making, 200, 201. 
Bedouin custom amed "dakhal," 

891. 
Bedouin depredations, 177. 
Bedouin encampment in tiie Valley of 

Salt, 198. 
Bedouin eyesight, 183. 
Bedouin infants, 200. 
Bedouins on the move, 51. 
Bedouin song to a camel, 66. 
Bedouin visitors, 172. 
Bedouin women in the Valley of Salt. 

199. . 



Beds and bedding, 47, 152, 230. 
Beit Lahm, i. e., Bethlehem, 41. 
Beit Lahm, a modem home in, 47. 
Beit Lahm carver in his workshop, 

44. 
Beit Lahm, a mother and infant of, 

45. 
Beit Lahm, pooulation of, 48. 
Beit Lahm, girls of, 49. 
Betrothal at N&sirah, 257. 
Bible found in Jacob's Well, 267. 
Biers, 145, 831. 

Birthdays of Queen Victoria, 328, 374. 
Birth of a child announced, 366. 
Birth of Christ, 208. 
Birth of the Imperial Prince of France 

proclaimed in Jerusalem, 291. 
Bishop of the Holy Fire, 801. 
Blind man of Kefr KAra, 206. 
Bread-making and baking, 70, 113, 

182, 200. 
Bread, Oriental reverence for, 154. 
Bride-dressers, 94. 
Bride from Damascus, the, 880. 
Bremer, Frederika, 897. 
Brothers and sisters, 271 — 273. 

C. 

Carmella and her African attendant, 

381. 
Carriage roads, 89, 56, 76. 
Carver of Beit Lahm, 43. 
Castle of Senflr, 237. 
Castle of Shefe. 'Omer, 136. 
Caves and caverns, 18, 49, 77, 125, 308 

—310, 332. 
Celebration of peace, 296. 
Celebration of the festival of Sainte 

Barbe, 363—365. 
Celebration of the f^te of the Grand 

Duke Constantine, 397. 
Celebration of victories in the Crimea, 

98. 
Characteristics of Arab children, 189, 

190 
Character of the Samaritans, 248, 173 
ChfUTQS and talismans, 46, 102, 252 

182, 196, 200, 213, 330> 38L 



412 



INDEX. 



Chess, 367. 

Cholera at H&ifa, 145—151. 
Cholera, remedies for, 146, 150. 
Christening of Jules Aumann, 192. 
Church of the Knights of St. John, 

26. 
Circumcision, 70. 
Clairvoyants, 116. 
Confession of a Greek Priest, 305. 
Congregation at the Latin church at 

N&sirah, 118. 
Conjecture concerning ancient beds 

and bedding, 47. 
Conjecture concerning carriage roads. 

Conjecture concerning the Holy Fire, 

306. 
Conjecture concerning the houses of 

Capernaum, 47. 
Conjecture concerning '' polished 

comer-stones," 95. 
Conjecture concerning Solomon's Ha- 

reem, 822. 
Conjecture concerning the "Nativity," 

208, 209. 
Consequences of a dream, 151. 
Contents of the storeroom, 153. 
Convent at Beit Lahm, 41, 42. 
Convent on Mount Carmel, 79, 150. 
Costumes of Bedouins, 200. 
Costumes of Beit Lahm, 44 — 50. 
Costumes of N&sirah, 120. 
Costumes of Shefa 'Omer, 135. 
Costumes of the people of Jerusalem, 

31. 
Cotton fields of the plain of 'Akka, 

141. 
Course of the Kedron, 289, 290. 
Cradles, 45, 77, 138, 230. 
Crocodiles, 346. 
Crusades, 129. 
Crown of Thorns, Poterium spino- 

sum, 170. 
Custom House at TantfLra, 73. 
Custom, force of, 365. 

D. 

" D^hal," a Bedoum law 391. 
Damascus, Hafeefee of^ 380. 
Dances at funends, 156, 157, 165. 
Dances at weddings and f6tes, 93, 

132, 228. 
" Dar el Ben&t," house of girls, 321. 
" Daughters of sound," 112. 
" Daughters of the hills," 111. 
Day of ill luck, 363. 
Death at midnight, 144. 
Death occasioned by grief, 157. 
Death of Abrahlm Sakhali. 155. 
Death of Elias Sakhali, 162. 
Death of KhalU SakhaH, 166. 



Demetrius, the S. S., 400. 

Denimciation of black lace mittens, 97. 

Dinner in a hareem, 222. 

Dinner with D. Tannoos, 274. 

Dinner with Salihh Agha, 179, 185. 

Divination dictionary, 105. 

Dr. Levisohn and the Samaritan Pen- 
tateuch, 387. 

" Dome of the Rock," 34, 377. 

Dora, 75. 

Dreams and their interpretations, 105, 
15L 

Druzes, 141, 142, 379, 384. 

E. 
Earthquake, 360. 

Easter at Jerusalem, 291, 296—306. 
Easter service&at the Holy Sepulchre, 

298. 
Education of native boys, 139, 175, 

355. 
Education of native girls, 178, 339, 

367. 
Education of young Jewesses, 311 — 

316. 
Elias Sakhali, 160. 
Encampment of Bedouins, 198. 
Encampment of Bishop Gobat, 28. 
Encampment of Gipsies, 212. 
Encampmentof wandering Arabs, 820. 
Encampment on the Talil^yeh, 21 , 36. 
En Bogel and the Brook Kedron, 289, 

310. 
Erinna the Hermit, 124—126. 
European colony at H&ifa, 86. 
European homes in Jerusalem, 35. 
Evening prayers at a Moslem village, 

349. 
Evening prayers of Moslems and 

Christians, 188. 
Exhibition of a performing goat, 69. 
Eyesight and disease of the eyes, 32, 

175, 182, 206. 

F. 

Farewell entertainment at Urtas, 335. 

False alarm, 89, 269. 

Feast of Sainte Barbe, 363. 

Feast of Tabernacles, 260. 

Feast of the Passover, 249, 250, 276. 

Fdtes at the French Consulate, 193, 

292. 
Fdte of the Grand Duke Constantino, 

397—400. 
Fdtes on the Queen's Birthday, 323, 

374. 
Fight in the Church of the Sepulchre, 

302. 
Fire-worshippers, 306. 
First-born sons, 12, 45, 46, 299. 
First sight of Jerusalem, 21. 



JSVEX. 



413 



Force of custom, 865. 

Foundation of a Native Society for the 

DifEusion of Useful Knowledge, 371* 
Four wives of Sheik Abdallah, 103. 
Free-thought among the Moslems, 

190, 264. 
Funeral processions,. 144, 145. 147, 

166, 831. 
Funeral services, 158, 166. 
Funeral songs and dances, 164, 165. 
Furhah Giammal and her love-letter, 

9, 376. 

G. 

Garden at H&lfa, 107. 

Garden at Nabltis, 270. 

Gardens at Y&fa, 14, 889. 

Grardens of Solomon, 52. 

Gates of Jerusalem, 63, 286, 291. 

Gazelle hunt, 182--186. 

Gipsies, 212, 213. 

Girls at the Jewish schools, 811, 316. 

Girls of Beit Lahm, 49. 

Girls of Bethany and Siloam, 32. 

Girls of Kefr K&ra, 205. 

Girls, education of, 173, 189, 339, 
367. 

Goat, performing, 69. 

Government of Nabliis, 215, 216, 395. 

Government of Syria, 160 — ^162. 

Grass on the house-tops, 169. 

Greek and Armenian pilgrims, 299, 
306. 

Greek and Latm clergy, 86, 97, 133, 
305. 

Greek Feasts, 86, 298, 365, 397. 

Greek gaixleners and Jewish builders, 
20. 

Greetings at the Gate of H&ifa, 83. 

Growth of Russian influence in Pales- 
tine, 386. 

Guest-chambers, 15, 130, 177, 271. 



H. 

Hafeefee, the bride, 380. 

H&i&, 80. 

" Hallo, Jack," 404. 

Hareem at Arrabeh, 218—235. 

Hareem at Kefr K^, 205, 

Hareem at Sen<ir, 238. 

Hareem at Shefa 'Omer, 136—139. 

Hareem of Solomon, 322. 

Hareem on Mount Olivet, 329. 

Hareems of HAifa, 101—106, 853— 

366. 
Harvest of cotton, 141. 
Harvest of melons, 344. 
Harvest of olives, 140. 
Harvest of roses, 309. 
Harvest on the house-tops, 171. 



Hebrew orphan boy adopted by Be- 
douins, 347. 

Helweh and her child, death of, 379. 

Helweh of Arrabeh, 220—235. 

Helweh's Ufe at HAifa, 353—371, 

Helweh's first-bom child, 366. 

Helweh's return to Arrabeh, 371. 

Henna, 96, 163, 173, 247. 

Herdsmen, 176.- 

Hidden treasures and treasure-trove, 
116, 116. 

Hint to decorators, 122. 

Hint to polygamists, 104. 

H.R.H. IVince Alfred, 387. 888. 

Holman Hunt's goat, 29. 

Holy fire, 298—306. 

Holy Sepulchre, 26, 298. 

Home of Hablb and Zora, 246. 

Home of the gardener's daughter, 356. 

Honey, 78, 126. 

Horse guards of Galilee, 178. 

Hostilities prevented, 240. 

Houses of Jerusalem numbered, 385. 

I. 
Ibrahim Pasha and ihe woman of 

Sefurieh, 272. 
Ink-horns, 127. 
Insurrections and skirmishes in the 

district of Nabltls, 194, 215, 216, 

293, 391. 
Interpretations of dreams, 105, 151. 
<' It is a goodly land," 886. 



J. 

Jacob esh Shellabi, 244, 246, 253. 
Jacob's Well, 265. 

Jane Eyre and Arab story-tellers, 99. 
Jerrars, the, 215, 237—239. 
Jerusalem, 25, 30—36, 286—334, 384. 
Jerusalem in the spring-time, 286. 
Jerusalem in the winter, 384. 
Jerusalem on Simday, 80. 
Jewesses at Sir M. Montefiore's 

schools, 311—316. 
Jew from India at Shefa 'Omer, 131. 
Jews and Jewesses. 106, 359. 
Jews of Aleppo, 132, 401. 
Jewish builders and Greek gardeners, 

20. 
Jewish family wrecked on the coast of 

Palestine, 349. 
Jewish synagogue at Shefa 'Omer, 139. 
Jews persecuted by the Christians, 

189, 359. 
Jews of the East, their dread of male- 

dictions, 410. 
Joseph's tomb, 268. 
Jugglery of the gipsies, 213. 



414 



INDEX. 



K. 

KamU Pkudia, 58, 242, 279, 292, 801, 

985. 
Katxine, mv toi'ditant mother, 62, 

74, 146. 
Katrtne and her scapulary, 196, 197. 
Katrtne Sakhali, 15i, 157, 172. 
Kedron, 288, 290. 

Kiahon, the river. 111, 142, 174, 186. 
Kohl, 96, 118, 139, 160, 364, 370. 
KuhAb, 64, 338. 

L. 

Lament of a senior wife, 138. 
Lamentations for the dead, 155, 162 

—165. 
Tending in Palestine, 4. 
Leah and her first-born son, 12. 
Learning Arabic, 89, 149. 
Lepers, 16. 
Letter from the Samaritan Priest 

Amran, 253. 
Little Anithe the betrothed, 247. 
Little lame girl of Kub&b, the, 64. 
" Locusts and wild honey," 78. 
Lord's Praver and the Moslem women, 

the, 23i; 232. 
Love letter, translated into English, 

376. 

M. 

Mahmoud Bek, Gov. of Nablfls, 259, 

261—264, 295, 394. 
Mangers, 204, 209. 
Maniacs, 32, 62, 108, 295. 
Maps, 99, 211, 222. 
Market garden, 107. 
Marriage among the Samaritans, 244. 
Marriage portions, 77, 94, 225. 
Marriage ceremonies, 90--97. 
Melon harvest, 344. 
Milk grotto miracles, 46, 49. 
Missionaries; 369. 
Mohammed, the Egyptian groom, 173 

—175, 20 «> 278. 
Mohammed Bek of Hdifa, 98, 99, 102, 

144. 
Monks of Mount Oarmel, 79. 
Moses Montefiora (Sir), 58, 311. 
Moslem funerals, 145, 147, 331. 
Moslem prayers, 185, 188, 190, 210, 

232, 827, 349. 
Moslem rosaries, 190. 
Moslem women, 100, 106, 218—235, 

367-370. 
Mother and babe at Arrabeh, 229. 
Mother and babe at Beit Lahm, 45. 
Mother and babe at H&ifa, 866, 382. 
Mother and babe at Y^fa, 12. 
Mount Carmel, 76, 110, 150. 
Mount Olivet, 21, 826—334. 
Mount Tabor, 123—127. 



N. 

NabWui, 241—276, 298—296. 

Names, 46, 347. 

Native schools, 139, 175. 

Native servants,, 15, 85, 39, 62, 352, 

377. 
Nativity, the, 208, 209. 
Necromancy, 116. 
'' New brooms sweep dean," 143. 
Nose jewels, nails and rings, 881. 

O. 

Olive harvest, 140. 

OUve oU, 142, 261. 

OUve-troes, 20, 225. 

Olivet, 21, 326—334. 

Opuntia, a specie of cactus, 13, 170. 

Oriental enjoyment, 271. 

Oriental ideas about the Queen of 

Ehighmd, 227. 
Oriental reverence for bread, 154. 
" Our Father, who art in Heaven," 

231. 
Out-door costumes of women in the 

chief towns of Palestine, 10. 

Overcome evU with good," 369. 



« 



P. 

" Painting the eves," 96, 364. 

Panic in H&ifa, 148. 

Passover, 250, 276. 

Peasant girls, 307. 

Persecution of the Jews by Oriental 

Christianfii, 189, 859, 410. 
Peter MeshuUam, 818. 
Philip's Fountain, 59. 
Pilgnms, 296, 298— 306, 397—399. 
Pillage of the Christiui quarter at 

Nabliis, 294. 
Piano at H&ifa, 851. 
Polyganay, 104, 106, 363; 
PopiDation of JBeit Lahm, 43. 
Population of H&i&, 85. 
Population of N&sirah, 128. 
Postmen waylaid and robbed, 243. 
Poterium, spinosum, crown of thorns, 

170. 
Prayers, 188, 190, 210, 231—235, 300, 

842, 349. 
Price for the head of Abrahlm Jerrar, 

242. 
Priest Amran, 244—277. 
Priests of the tribe of Levi, 248. 
Prisoners of war, 390 — 894. 
Rt)fessional bride-dressers, 94. 
Protestants, 30, 119, 258, 371. 

Q. 

Quarantine boat, 4. 
Quarantine lodging at Yftfa, 5. 



iin>Ex, 



415 



QuarantiDe, 148. 

Quarantme at the Convent on Mount 

Carmel, 150. 
Quarries, 263, 848. 

R. 

Rabbi Shaayea of Aleppo, 401. 

Rabbi Shaayea's mysterious disap- 
pearance, 408. 

Jlain, 68, 146, 162, 197, 202, 288—291. 

Ramadan. 36, 48. 311, 320, 826, 374. 

Ramleh, 16, 64, 838. 

Reeds, 67, 127. 

Refugees from Arrabeh, 389—394. 

Remedies for cholera, 146, 160. 

Remedy for mosquito bites, 67. 

Reputation of N&sirah, 121. 

Rescue of the Rev. S. Lyde, 296. 

Roots of houses, 47, 117, 168—171, 
826. 

Rosaries, 190. 

Ruins, 20, 26, 321. 

Ruins of C8Bsiu:ea, 346. 

Ruins of Dora and Athlite, 76, 349— 
361. 

Rules for Moslem &sting, 311. 

Russian Hermit and "his man Fri- 
day," 124—126. 

Russian influence in Palestine, 386, 
387. 

Russian steamers, 386. 386, 396. 

Ruth m the fields of Boaz, 46, 48. 



S. 

SakhaU family, the, 90, 166—167, 172, 

362. 
*' Sale by the broken ffroup," 316. 
Saleh Bek and his chUdren, 364, 366, 

367, 889. 
Saleh, 86, 110—116, 146. 
Saleh's Uttle sister, 117. 
Salihh Agha, 178—186. 
Salutations and kisses, 11. 
Samaritan literature,t246, 246, 248, 387. 
Samaritan Priests, 244, 248, 249. 
Samaritan synagc^e, 246. 
Samaritans, the, 244—277. 
Samson and the thirty sheets, 10. 
Sapphire bead and the white mare, 

Scapularies, 196. 

Scene at midnight at Kefr K&ra, 207. 
Scene at midnight in a hareem, 233. 
Scene in an Arab sailing-boat, 71. 
Schools, 139, 311, 356. 
Sea-shore, 187, 341, 846. 
Seekmff a night's lodging, 202, 203. 
Sel&meh, the chief ^est of the Sa- 
maritans, 246. 



Sen^, 236—240. 

Sham fight, 297.. 

ShefSsk 'Omer. 130—139, 173—182. 

Sheik Abdallah and his seven wives, 

loa 

Sheik Mflssa, and his ideas about wis- 
dom and folly, 261, 264. 

Sheik of Kefr K&ra, 203. 

Sheik of Mount Olivet, 328, 834. 

Siege of Arrabeh, 889—395. 

SiegeofH&ifa, 87. 

Siege of Jerusalem, 297, 298. 

Sit Leah and her son, 12. * 

Skirmishes on Olivet, 332, 884. 

Smoking, 11, 28, 224, 284. 

Soap, 142, 261. 

Solomon and his Song of Songs, 822. 

Songs, 66, 77, 182, 164, 226, 228, 301, 
822, 362, 370. 

Sparrows on the house-tops, 168-9. 

Starch, 164, 222. 

Stephani's guest-chamber, 130. 

Stone for building and stone quarries, 
263, 348. 

Suggestions about Moslem women, 

Suleiman, the tailor, 148 — ^160. 
Simday at sea with Rabbi Shaayea, 

407. 
Sunday at YAfa, 67. 
Sunday on Moimt Zion, 80. 
Sunrise, 826, 848. 
Supper with Salihh Agha, 179. 
Sureya Pasha of Jerusalem, 886. 
Sword dance, 166. 
Sweetmeats, 88, 181, 193, 222, 242. 

T. 

Tabor, 128—127. 

Talibeyeh, the, 21, 30. 

TantAra, 78, 74. 

Tent life, 21, 28—80, 86, 61, 198, 820. 

Test for building stone, 263. 

" There cometh a shower," 68. 

Tombs of the prophets. 382. 

Translation of an Arabic love-letter, 

876. 
Translation of Arabic songs and 

hymns, 66, 164, 225—228, 273, 301, 

376. 
Treasure-trove, 116. 
Truth, 306. 
Turkish baths, 96. 
Turkish soldiera, 240, 800, 304, 391, 

394, 396. 

U. 

Urtfts, the gardens of Solomon, tf2, 
55, 81&-323, 884-386. 



416 



INDEX. 



V. 

VaUey of Figs, 281. 
Valley of Boees, 59. 
VaUey of Salt, 198. 
VeU of Ruth, 46. 
VeilB, 8, 46i 
Village oven, 113. 
Village priest, 849. 
VUlage supper, 350. 

W. 
War song, 228. 

Wedding at the Greek church, 90. 
Wedding prooessions, 76, 91—94. 
Whirlpool, 860. 
Whirlwind, 36. 
White mare, 173, 174. 
Widow and her children, 163, 862. 
Widow and her son, 255. 
Widow's petition, 84. 
Willow-pattern cheese-plates, 122. 



Wit rewarded, 273. 

Women at the bakehouse, 181, 182. 

Women of Kefr K&ra, 204, 206, 210. 

Women of TantAra, 74. 

Wreck of an Arab boat, 346. 

Wrestling, 180. 

Y. 

Y&fa, the ancient Joppa, in sight, 2. 
YAfe, a-13, 67—71, 339. 
Yas^ Agha and his hareem, 101. 
Yassln Agha's petition and proposal, 
372. 

Z. 

Zacaiiah Agha, 351, 362. 
Zahra and Uie violets, 270. 
Zahuris, or clairvoyants, 116. 
Zeller, Mr., 258. 

Zora, the Samaritan bride, 244, 246, 
251. 



THE END. 



R. CLAY, SUti, AND TAYJUOK, PJII1«XA.RS, ^UNi>uM. 



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